Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Cheviot Rims... I Owned Cheviot Rims in 4X140 in the Past (1990's decade), the ones on the Rear of my Subaru "BumbleBeast" on the old times it was White: Those were Different designed than yours and came from a Renault; also My Cheviot Rims said: "Made in France" emblazoned in the inner side of the Lip; I've seen more 4X140 Cheviots here in Honduras, all of them came off from french Peugeot / Renault cars... interesting. Kind Regards.

Yes, in fact, LADM has been somehow the place where car makers sends their leftovers, that explains the weird "Options" we have had... Kind Regards.

Do you know the size of the Main Fuel Jets on your Weber? My "BumbleBeast" does not have a Choke, and still works good when cool! ... But our cool climates never gets too cool... minimum temps gets here to ~ 50º F, During December and January only... so maybe your Weber could have a too "big" Low (Primary) jet. My Weber has 140 in Low (Primary Stage) and 162 in High (Secondary Stage) But Also, has you already advanced the ignition Timing to ~ 20º? Edit: works better @ 15º maybe it isn't properly set, yet. Kind Regards.

By the Way, this Short Video, Featuring few Honduran Subarus, includes some with said Corner Lights: Kind Regards.

Exactly the Same for the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) We have them here, in Honduras, also I've seen them in Photos online of Subarus from Chile, Peru, Uruguay, Costa Rica, ... etc. Kind Regards.

(Translation) Welcome! Your Subarus are stunning, very beautiful and special. What parts do you need?

Добро пожаловать! Ваши Субару потрясающие, очень красивым и особенным. Какие части вам нужно?

The Editing is already Done. Kind Regards.

I'm Glad that you find my Writeup, Helpful. Not exactly "Missing" answers, because I wrote that you could get Rid of Everything else that is not on the List of parts that shall stay, for proper function of the PCV system; now I believe that I must edit my Writeup on the PCV connections' area, to emphasize that by "Get Rid of Everything Else", includes the ASV "Black Boxes" for sure. Yes, They're Removable. I even removed the A/C actuator... Some of the 3/16" ports at the intake were removed and welded close with aluminium as well, but the few rest, were capped with Rubber Caps for vacuums. Kind Regards.

On the LED Retrofitting to the instrument cluster Subject, this Writeup might be Helpful: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131336-led-retrofitting-on-instrument-cluster-dashboard-removal-procedures/ Kind Regards.

The LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs Subarus, got Factory Carburated + Disty EJ Engines on the Dual Range Legacies & imprezas, 'till year 1994, as you can read further info & see lots of Photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/98480-need-advice-legacy-wagon/ Kind Regards.

Don't forget the Shared Ground for Both Left Speakers, and the Other Side's Shared ground for both Right Speakers; you must rewire them to independent ground on each Speaker, in order to avoid problems with the built-in Amplifier. As far as I know, each Speaker comes wired independently from factory, but there is a place behind the Glove Box, on the Wiring Harness, that the Factory merged the Grounds for each side. You can track down the point and rewire the part from the New Stereo's Plug to the Wiring Harness. Also don't forget to post Photos. Kind Regards.

In Honduras, you only need the Bill of Sale (Sales Receipt) of the New engine (Any that fits onto your car) and the bill of the Repair shop that did the Swap Job, saying it is working good; or an Sworn Declaration that You did the Swap Job by yourself and is working Good. However, the Authorities will take a "Print" of the imprinted numbers on the New Engine (That is done by cleaning the area where the serial number is emblazoned, then smear enough ink and put a blank paper over, to copy exactly the numbers and their shape, right from the metal casting, to avoid Clones from being registered) and that's it; now you can ask the New Certificate of Registry for your Car, featurin' the New engine's serial number on it. I did that on a Chevrolet Blazer which we "Castrated" from a V6 Automatic, to a Toyota 22R EFi Manual; also I did that to my Wife's car, the "KiaStein" and also on my Dead Loyale 2.7 Wagon project. I suffered from said "Snowball Effect" on my dead Loyale 2.7 Project, which originally was my second wagon / parts car ... the Brakes became weak and Handling poor with the overweight on the front; also no place for a normal radiator... it only needed a front crash and all the project ended. So, I better stay with my Humble EA82 Weberized engine onto my First Wagon, the "BumbleBeast" which has been in the family since New in 1985; and still is rumbling Strong, traveling and daily driving + weekend offroading with the Family... for my Style of driving is Enough, even with a 2" lift + 25" tires on it. Kind Regards.

Don't forget to contribute with your Instrument Cluster's Photos with the LED Lights, to this Thread on same Subject: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led%C2%B4s/page-6 Kind Regards.

Have you already Started the Engine? Somehow, the Fuel Gauge wiring seems to work properly only with engine Running. I Bet it will read accurate after you drive the Subie for a while... Kind Regards.

Well, that is Not an Old Gen Subie... Also it must be the Legacy that is been Built by a Friend, True2Blue. Kind Regards.

Maybe he is refering to the common mistake of placing a Single Contact 1156 Bulb, in the place for a Dual Contact Bulb; in that case, this exact issue will Happens: In such case, one circuit gives power to the other... Very simple. Kind Regards.

Nice! ... But where are the Photos?

I got the Point. In the Past, Subaru sold a Rebadged Isuzu Trooper II as Subaru Bighorn, and that was Automatic Dual Range, which I think should be Awesome for a 4X4 Crawler, let me Share a couple of Pictures: More info at the Legendary "Strange & Weird Subaru Stuff" Thread. Also the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado / Colorado, comes like that for the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Have you consider the idea of using such Nissan / Jatco Transmission on a 4X4 Crawler? Kind Regards.

Yes, the Subaru 4EAT is the Same as the Pathfinder auto trans, Both were made by Jatco... also Ford and Kia has their "Versions" see: ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions#4EAT Kind Regards.

Somehow, I prefer a Brand New Carb, over an Used one which has Unknown History and could have been Mistreated. That is Very Good Idea! But Remember: If you use the Trans-Dapt Adaptor I used, you must change the Air Filter to the Shorter model, because the Taller one will hit the hood, as I described on My Writeup; unless your Subie has a Lift and you Dropped the Crossmember at least 1.5" Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Yes, the New -to me- Mazda Booster is workin' Awesome! As I told in previous posts, I've switched cars with my Wife, 'till I got this brakes' issues sorted, Now seems like is time get back onto my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" and give back the "KiaStein" to her. Thank you, Josh! _________________________________________________________ I always take Photos and Measurements to go along the explanations, because I Hope that the info I Share, might be Helpful for other people; this "KiaStein" thread seems to be very Huge, because I've all the information regarding to said Kia, on this thread only; While in the case of my Subaru "BumbleBeast", I Wrote Individual Writeups for each different problem & Solution / adaptation \ Improvement that I've done to it; each writeup has been published at the USRM, and all the links to them can be found on the "BumbleBeast" Thread, which is an Index; whose link is at my Signature. Also, at my "BumbleBeast" thread, you'll find a list of links to useful Downloadable Files related to Different Subarus. _________________________________________________________ Back on the KiaStein topic, I'm very Glad to inform that the Brake Pedal is Working Really Awesome, like Never ever Before. Kind Regards.

Now I only need to Change the Rear Drums Brakes, with Rear Disc Brakes. That will improve braking performance by: ► Avoiding the Rear Wheels from Locking easily: that will add Safety. The Rear Drums are Oval, which somehow is "Normal" after 160K Miles / 15 Years of use in an Automatic Car. ► A greater Chamber for brake fluid on the Rear Calipers, will compensate the increased bore Master Cylinder. ► Also, as a Bonus: I'll Get Rid from the Monthly adjustments to the rear shoes, due to the Useless Self adjusters on the Rear Drum Brakes. Kind Regards.

I already Tested the Vehicle's Braking Behaviour on Different Speeds at different tipes of grounds, and I found this, so far: The Brake Pedal is Tall, but is Very Soft and Responsive, plus it has much more sensibility, like a Brand New Car, rolling out from the Dealer; it only needs 25% of the Brake Pedal Travel to stop the Car on average usage, while it needed 75% of Travel on identical usage & circumstances, before I changed these parts. I was Able to Lock all the Four Wheels going at 60 MPH's using 50% less Leg Effort!!! ... and the Brake Pedal still has more travel available, just in case... with the old parts, the pedal would needed to be floored for the same purpose.

The Protege's Booster + Sportage's Master Cylinder installed on the Kia Sephia: This is the Clearance, between the Booster and the Relay & Fusible Box: Now I have Much More Reasons to call this car, the "KiaStein"