Loyale 2.7 Turbo

If you're Writing about the Adapter Plates for a Carburator, the Best gasket sealant is Shellac, which could be in contact with Gasoline, Coolant, etc... ~► http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--indian-head--gasket-shellac-compound-detail Kind Regards.

Here's the Complete Writeup, with your Answer: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ Kind Regards.

Some Master Cylinders of some Sportages, looks to have pretty Identical Fitment than the Sephia's one; I wish I could have both Master Cylinders Together and do the Proper Comparison & Take Measurements... But the Local Kia Dealer's salesmen are not prone to Help their clients with their "Projects" ... ... They want to sell items according to the Vin Number. I Asked another Kia-Forums' Member, who works at a Kia Dealer in USA, to do that side by side comparison for me, with no avail... So, seems like I will have to go to Local Junk Yards in order to Search for a Sephia and a Sportage, remove both Master Cylinders and do the Comparison there... Unless I could Convince the Kia Dealer's Salesman to let me see together some master cylinders, and take measurements 'till I could find a Suitable replacement with increased bore. Kind Regards.

According to info found online, Some Sportages came with 15/16" Master Cylinders and some Sportages came with 1" Master Cylinders. ~► http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1999/kia/sportage/brake/brake_master_cylinder.html

I'll like to know if the first gen Sportage's Master Cylinder is 15/16" and if the mounting points / Coupler's threads will be Compatible with the Sephia's ones.

Well... There is another Reason why I want to Change the Master Cylinder on my Wife's Sephia; I believe that it is about to fail soon, because my Wife reported to me a couple of months ago, that the Brake Pedal started to fade slowly during prolonged stops on steep hills, on Semaphores (Traffic Lights). I Tested that by myself, it is a Little loss of pressure, internally developed on the Master Cylinder, because no wheel is loosing a single drop of Brake Fluid, and the level at the Master Cylinder remains the Same, so seems like the Rubber O-Rings at the Master Cylinder's pistons are worn... That is comprehensible, if you think that the Sephia was built on november 1999 as 2000 model, and has more than 160K Miles with same Master Cylinder; also the Vehicle is Automatic... those relies more on the Brakes than Manual ones. So, I will change the Master Cylinder anyway, in order to prevent a major failure, but sure I'll test the Vehicle with the original one first, and I'll Report back the Experience. Kind Regards.

By the way, I already know that the Master Cylinder should be in Balance with the Calipers' pumps, as I already wrote: That being written and said, my intention is only to Keep the Proper "Balance" between Master Cylinder and the New rear Disc brakes, that will substitute the old crappy Drum Brakes. Kind Regards.

The Brake Booster is gonna Stay in the car, as long as it continue working fine. My main concern now, is the Main Brake Pump, also known as "Master Cylinder" ... there are three important differences between them, let me explain those differences: The Master Cylinder on the model with Rear Drums, comes with a bore size of 7/8" While the Master Cylinder on the Model that comes with Rear Discs, comes with a Bore size of 15/16" which is a li'l bit Thicker. . The Master Cylinder on the model with Rear Drums, is Shorter than the Master Cylinder on the Model that comes with Rear Discs. . Each Master Cylinder has Two Pistons inside, the First one sends pressure for the Front Wheels' Brakes and seems to be Equal on Both Master Cylinders; but the Secondary Piston, which is the one that sends pressure to the Rear Wheels' Brakes, has an increased Travel (Distance to Run inside the Master Cylinder) and thus explains the increased overal lenght on this Master Cylinder. The increased Bore and Capacity of moving Fluid on the Master Cylinder designed for the Model with Rear Discs, is due to compensate the increased size of the Pumps at the Rear Wheels, comparing the ones on the Rear Calipers, with the ones on the Rear Drums, which are Smaller. So, long story short: I am afraid that the actual Master Cylinder in the Sephia, being shorter and thinner bore, will not be enough to properly send the right amount / pressure to the rear calipers. Since the Local Kia Dealer can not bring that 15/16" Master Cylinder, I'm investigating for suitable replacements; the first gen Kia Sportage "Visually Comparing" seems to have a pretty similar Master Cylinder, but I need to make a Side by Side comparison, plus take measurements... any thoughts?

That means that you haven't tested the Honda Coil Springs on the SafariWagon's Rear Suspension, yet... isn't it?

Dear Thomas, How do you "Feel" the Rear Suspension with the Honda's Coil Springs? I know it is early to have a definitive impression, but I'll Like to know your opinion. Kind Regards.

If there is Nothing they can do and you still want more illumination, why don't you change the Bulbs with High Power, multiple tip LED bulbs? ... I've done it to many cars, including my Subaru "BumbleBeast" see: It used to be Blurry and Dark, now is so Sharp and Bright, that I have to turn the Dimmer knob to the Minimum... Kind regards.

I would add: without Modifications. It has been Done, lots of times. In example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126559-retro-gl-10-turbo-build/page-6 Look at the Retrofit Forums. Kind Regards.

That was Hilarious! ... ... until my Wife looked at this post An impreza with an EA82... I imagine the Sluggish econoBox that will result... Post Photos of those Subies, we Love photos here. Kind Regards.

Dear Ferox, The information regarding this subject, was told to me in a series of Private Messages @ Facebook, by a great friend in USA which also is USMB member, and I promised him to keep the story between us. So I can not reveal details nor names in this mere case. Sorry. Also sorry for the involuntary thread hijack. Kind Regards.

Very Kindly let me tell you that I've read so many Horror Stories, related to that "Post Apocalyptic Resurfacing Procedures" Thread, that I really, Really dismissed the idea of doing such thing manually on any engine's Head(s). Seems like your engine could be one more victim of such info on that thread. Kind Regards.

Actual Nissans are prone to premature Clutch / Press failures... and the usual body parts looseness. Especially on the Nissan Navara double Cab, six speed Turbo Diesel 4X4. http://www.autobild.es/coches/nissan/navara Kind Regards.

Yes: ► The 5/16" Main line is the "Fuel Delivery" to the Carburator. ► The 1/4" Secondary Line is the "Fuel Return" to the Gas Tank. ► The 3/16" Third line is the Gas Tank's "Vent Line" I only hooked the main to the carb, closed the return and left the vent line open, but I attached one of those mini air filters to it, in order to prevent debris to get into it; those two unused lines hangs next to the Brake's Booster, hiding there and the Subie has been working Flawlessly like that for many years so far... Hooking a "T" between the Return and the Vent Lines, will cycle the pressure buildup on the Pipes / Hoses and in my own humble opinion, could be Dangerous during hot weather days, and high pressure buildup on the system. But please, post the Photos... maybe I'm wrong and misunderstood the setup. Kind Regards.

Yes, I know... I have obtained parts for my Subaru online since more than a decade ago, mainly here, with the Kind Help of the nice forum members, as you can see ~► Here. However, it does not make much sense to import trims that says "Loyale" from overseas, just to say that the car came like that from factory to europe, especially considering that if he needed new trims, they were available there locally. However, anything could be possible. Kind Regards.

Welcome! 1993 Impreza AWD... Wanna upload Photos? ... We love Photos here! Those does Not have a Timing Chain, it is a Timing Belt. I bet that your Impreza has the EJ18 (1.8L) engine. Kind Regards.

...and the Third Gen Leones for the LADM as well. Kind Regards.

Where did you put it? I left open, the one on my Subie, for the same Pressure Buildup. Kind Regards.

Well. beside the owner that states this is Original (Follow the links to his posts, above), being phisically in Europe, where is supposed that no Subaru were ever Sold with the "Loyale" name, and imagining the problem to get a Trim that fits on the Coupe with the "Loyale" name from overseas, for both doors... seems legit to think it was sold like that from factory. Maybe it was a Display Model in 1988, perhaps? Kind Regards.

Awesome! What are the Plans with it? Kind Regards.

That Touring Wagon in the Photo Above looks Awesome! I Bet it had the "Spider Intake Manifold" version EA82... Kind Regards.

The procedures to get the Float sender unit and repair it, are Awesomely explained by rdweninger, however by reading this symptom: which made me think that also, the alternator not charging 'till the engine reaches above 2K RPM's, could be another cause. Kind Regards.