Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Let me Share some Photos of the Parts Sent by Mr. Robert (Gottacruise)

Well, after some time waiting, Mr. Robert wrote me an e-mail, he had to obtain both left & Right Calipers Brand New, because the ones from the Junk Yard were seized, rusted beyond possible Repairs. Also he Disassembled and Cleansed everything, prior to Shipping; and send me Photos of the Complete parts' inventory! Thank you Mr. Robert, you're Awesome! The Shipped Box, which almost weighed 80 Lbs, is on its way...

Sorry to read about the accident, I hope you will be Alright soon. This thread needs more progress photos... Kind Regards.

Welcome! We love Subaru Photos here, wanna upload some? Kind Regards.

Welcome Back! ... . That is your Subaru "Forester XT" which by the way, looks Nice. The Subaru "XT" is another model, from the late 1980's decade. Kind Regards.

If it has the Nippon Denso Distributor, then it will be No Screw, but if it has the Hitachi Distributor, yes, a tiny screw... and seems like it is Hitachi because you wrote that you can't pull the Rotor. Have you checked if there is a broken Timing Belt? Kind Regards.

Believe me, I ran my "BumbleBeast" without the Return line nor the Fuel Tank's vent line hooked for a Decade (then I reconnected it); both were Hangin' down, next to the Brake's Booster and that completely avoids high pressure build up on the tank, also avoid fuel starvation. I kindly suggest to try running a straight fuel line from a single outlet fuel filter to the Weber carb, and let both tank's lines (Return and vent) unhooked for Testing Purposes; also you might want to drive during the test, without air filter, in order to be Sure that those are not the causes of the issue. Then let us know the Results... it is easy and worth try. Kind Regards.

On the EA82 engines, you can advance the timing further than stock specs when they has a Weber carb; in fact seems like they like the advanced timing when they has a Weber. I went as far as 22º despite that the Stock timing should be at 8º, but I run my "BumbleBeast" @ 20º; now talking about the EA81 engine you have, I bet that at 8º the timing will be somehow "Retarded" for the Weber... So, I kindly suggest you to try advancing the timing, instead of retarding it; try it at 18º or around that and give us feedback. Also, I only run a single outlet fuel filter on my "BumbleBeast" and the return line isn't hooked; in order to avoid fuel starvation during high acceleration moments, in example: Passing another car on the Highway or going uphill loaded. Maybe you can try to close the return and see if that changes your engine's acceleration behaviour. Kind Regards.

Yes I Agree... Flooding instead of Lean; but also seems like the Ignition Timing is not set properly; so I kindly suggest you to check the Timing / move it 'till it develops better performance. Kind Regards.

Have you checked if the Ignition Coil sends power to the Sparkplugs? Maybe the Weber just got Dirty... Have you Tried with Carburator Cleaner?

Does it Crank or is completely dead? If is completely dead, check for Fusible Links. If crank but not catch, it could has: Low Gas / No Fuel Pump Running \ Burnt ignition Module. Give us more details to properly help you find out the issue. Kind Regards.

Thank you for Sharing those part Numbers. Remember: as I described on the Writeup, I used the Front Coil Springs from a Junk Yard's Tempo, so they were not as stiff as the Brand new ones; other forum members used the Coil Springs for the V6 Automatic + A/C tempo, which are too stiff for the Subie... they had to cut one and a half turns from them to fit. I Kindly suggest you to read carefully the Writeup. Kind Regards.

As far as I remember, it is mounted on a Toyota Frame, lots of Toyota parts were used; and lives in Iceland. Kind Regards.

Forester in the Beach Sands of Morocco

This Link doesn't work for unregistered people... ...

Hey ... you can download your copy, look for the link on my shared files! According to the Laws of my Country, it is not piracy to share digital copies of items that are no longer available in their original version, as long as you don't obtain any profit from them, nor damaging the copyright owners rights. So, I only pasted a Link found online... I'm not obtaining any profit, and that book is obsolete. Kind Regards.

Nope, I Can't ... that is for my Own Readin' pleasure. I'm trying to save my eyes from too much Screen Light... Kind Regards.

...It took me a Decade, somehow... But Finally I Printed and binded my copy of the .pdf File of this Awesome Book: I Tried hard for years to purchase a "Real" book of those, with no avail. Now I have one more to Read... Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! Despite that I shall agree with that statement, (That mud also looks like drunk people's vomit thru the door's windows) I like your Subie's overall Look and how it Sits. Kind Regards.

Yes, the Complete Suspension Writeup is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ But you must notice that, despite that I ended swapping the front coil springs with Harder ones; the total amount of travel on the Front Shock Absorbers is quite Limited; so I purchased a couple of 2" Strut Blocks + Engine's crossmember spacers from Scott in Bellingham, in order to Level my "BumbleBeast". Every detail has been described in my Writeup, with Links for each thread with further info & Photos. Kind Regards.

So, the Lens fit, Thanks for the Answer! The main difference between the LED Bulb and the LED Board is that the Bulb points the light to an specific area, while the LED board spreads it like if you have a large Neon light on the Roof. I used them years ago... they're completely worthless due to the minuscule size of the LEDs inside of them; the best bet is to use the small LED board; unless the Bulb's area is reduced to the Bulb's size, like other cars roof lights. Kind Regards.