Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Members
  • Posts

    7840
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    235

Everything posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  1. ► Edit: It is not a Picture, is a Video linked from you tube and I can see it perfectly. Try to reload the Page. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ Nice Video, I Like it! ... ... I watched it with my Little Daughter. I Believe it is amazing that she almost could reach the Top of that Tiny Subaru, And you look Huge next to it! ... Thank you for Sharing. Kind Regards.
  2. I'm Glad to Know that your Weber Swap went Good! Did you changed the main Jettings? Kind Regards.
  3. Awesome! Yes, the accord Springs never needed to be cutted, despite that the Toyota Shock Absorbers' base is not completely Flat, like the Subaru Shock Absorbers were. Kind Regards.
  4. You're Welcome! I'm glad to know that you solved the problem and reported back such non conventional issue, it will add good info to the USMB's Database for sure. Kind Regards.
  5. So, you obtained the Toyota Shock Absorbers (Tokiko) used, isn't it? They look great; let us Know how you feel the Rear Suspension's Behaviour with these Changes; I bet it will be Better carrying loads, and a Little more hard than it was; but this setup will remove the saggy rear for sure. Kind Regards.
  6. I must say, thank you all for explaining the HHO. /hijack. Back on Topic: Beside a Divorced Transfer Case, how about adapting a Torque Converter to a Manual Trans? You would need an oil pump to work the torque converter. A manual trans oiling system is based on splash lubrication so a torque would have to have an external oil pump... Also you would need a transmission cooler as torque convertor creates a lot of heat. In offroad racing the torque converter absorbs some of the driveline shock. In the Past, Chysrler offered this Clutch-to-fluid system: ~► http://www.allpar.com/mopar/fluidrive.html It has been discussed previously here, in USMB: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142032-torque-converter-in-front-of-a-manual/ Kind Regards.
  7. Also I Believe it is a Bad Battery: It might lost part of its ability to maintain the proper Charge: Volts + Amps. The reason why it sends 12.3V outside the Car and 11.3 while connected to the car (Which is Normal) is due to the Resistance offered by the Wiring harness and certain devices, such like memory for the Stereo, etc... The same happens to the A-C to D-C transformers: in example a 9V ones will measure 11 or 12 while they're Unplugged because there is No resistance. So, I kindly suggest you to try to take voltage measures and behaviour, with Another Battery, and let us know the Results. Kind Regards.
  8. Nice Early EA82 Touring Wagon with Headlamp Washers, I knew that some of those were used in public services in certain countries... We got some of those here, in Latin America. Kind Regards.
  9. This one seems to be Photoshopped, due to the abnormal "Egg" Shape of the Wheels and their Shadow: As far as I know, this one... ...only has certain body parts from a 360, and that's it; everything else are from other cars. That should be the "Young SS" Version of the 360. Kind Regards.
  10. This camper is number one in a series of at least 5 built by: "Special Karosser" http://www.specialkarosser.se/index.php in Dorotea, a small town at the north of Sweden.
  11. The only thing I could tell from this Photo is that... ...this Subie should be Located in Latin America, due to the banner Written at the Wall, There says: "Servicio de Torno, Soldadura de Arco y Oxígeno" Translated to English: "Lathe Services, Arc Welding and Autogenous Welding" And despite that it is a crappy cellphone photo, looks like there's someone Working under it...
  12. I polished the Transparent lens on the Instrument Cluster of my Subaru "BumbleBeast" using a good Quality Carnauba + Silicone Wax, it restored the transparency and buffed out scratches. Kind Regards.
  13. The EA81 intake manifold is larger than the one for the "Narrow Case" EA71 engine, however it could bolt-on on the newer "Fat Case" EA71. Kind Regards.
  14. After some Cleansing, I Sprayed some Black Rustoleum Paint inside and Outside: Re-Placed the infamous A/C Duct, back on its Place: And Voilá!!! ... ... the Job is Done after reinstalling everything back in the Car: Now the Driver's Seat feels Firmer and a little Taller, offers the proper Back Support and does not move anymore!!! I Hope this ideas be Helpful for more Subie Owners... Kind Regards.
  15. Finally, I Cleaned the Broken Support's Surrounding Area, and Welded the thick Reinforcement Plate I Made, to it:
  16. Then, after taking the Measurements, I made a Plate of same Sheet Metal, and welded together it with both angled Reinforcements, as a Unique Structure: This is How the thing Looks Like, placed over my "BumbleBeast"
  17. Here you can see the Seat Support and its Broken Area; Notice that the Gasoline & Brake Lines goes above of it, inside the Car: I obtained a Thick, 3/16" Hardened Sheet Metal, and made a couple of 90º angled Reinforcements for both sides:
  18. To find the Broken Seat Support, First you need to Remove the Seat: Remove the Plastic Fasteners that holds the Carpet in Place, to Remove the Carpet: In the Photo Above you can see the infamous A/C Duct going Thru the Support, Here is Said Duct, already Removed from the Car, it is a two-Pieces Plastic Duct:
  19. This writeup is for the Third Gen Subaru Leone, a.k.a: "Loyale" or "EA82" etc, but the ideas given here might work, with some changes, to other vehicles as well. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Have you ever felt the Seat on your Subie like a Rocking Chair? The Subaru EA82 GL has a Complicated Air Conditioner Distribution Design, which includes a couple of Ducts under the Front Seats, one ends there to deliver Air to the Rear Passenger's Feet, and the other Duct delivers Air to the Rear Doors' Windows; this last Duct, passes through one of the Front seat supports, weakening its structure somehow. The Weakest Front Seat Support, is the one located at the Rear of them, next to the point where the Seat Belt Anchors; there is the A/C Duct passing in the middle of said Support. I've seen some local Subies with those Supports Broken, especially the Driver's side one, and the owners didn't knew the reason why their Driver's side seat was loose and / or way too much reclined to the Back... (when said support is not only Broken, but also Deformed for using it like that) ...I Bet that many Subie owners could have same issue on their cars, without even knowing, nor completely noticing it. So, that support on the Driver's Side in my Subaru "BumbleBeast" has broken for the Second Time... I Know: I am a Big Guy, 6' tall and over 110 Kg driving an Old Subie Wagon with Hardened "Reinforced" suspension, so the autogenous welding I did a couple of years ago to simply put that broken support together, will never last too much... so this was the Perfect Time to Reinforce that Seat Support and permanently getting Rid from that problem.
  20. I've been using them since year 1999 without any problem nor loose boots, but you have to tighten 'em strong enough to held the grease in place; the main advantages are easy to use and no razor edges against the soft Rubber, but avoid using "industrial Strength" ones, they might be too hard for the application, just use Good Quality ones. More information & photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/114267-advice-for-longer-cv-joints-life/ Kind Regards.
×
×
  • Create New...