Loyale 2.7 Turbo

All this parts plus shipping and handling from the U.S.A. to Honduras is expensive, but the security of my family is the most important thing, also I Really want to fix Permanently the brakes issues on that car; so I got a loan at a local bank, and I was able to send the Money to Mr. Robert (GottaCruise) few days before the end of October.

After that, He went to pick up all the Parts to the Junk Yard, and sent me this Photos then:

Knowing that the Rotors and Pads should be in bad shape, I wanted to buy both side's (Left & Right) complete Rear Disc Brakes assemblies from the Junk Yard, plus the Parkin' Brake Cables, Rubber Hoses, etc... all the involved Hardware. And then I will obtain a pair of Brand New Rotors plus Pads' set for those rear Disc Brakes, from Amazon; in order to rebuild them to Good Working Conditions, prior to mount them on my Wife's Sephia, the "KiaStein"

After exchanging some private messages with other members of Kia-Forums who were Searching among their local Junk Yards in order to find a suitable donor car for me ... one of them obtained a positive answer from a Junk Yard nearby his place, and offered to help me to obtain its Rear Disc Brakes' Assemblies. Around mid october 2013, the junk yard guys told him that eighteen days ago, they had received a first gen Kia Spectra Premium with 104K miles that featured factory Rear Disc Brakes; such car went there due to motor damage, but the rest was in good conditions / not in an accident ... ... But the Car was sitting in the Dirt without Rims, so the brake parts were Rusted already... This is the Picture that the junkyard sent to Mr. Robert (GottaCruise) then:

Awesome Find and Awesome Project! I Kindly suggest you to look for Rusted Fuses, and rusted ground contacts; it is a common issue. Kind Regards.

Again: Thanks for the Photo and Data. Sorry to read that you was given the wrong one... Might I ask you, if you could return it and obtain the right one instead? Kind Regards.

Thank you for the Comparison Photo. That means that you've received the Wrong (Shorter = 105 mm) one, isn't it? Kind Regards.

... I Hope they're alright ... Kind Regards.

Welcome! / ¡Bienvenido!

I'm glad that you found the Solution, also because you came back to post it here, and did not let this thread be another orphan, unfinished thread without solution. Kind Regards.

Thank you for Clarifying! My Subaru "BumbleBeast" EA82 is year model 1985 Also, Trident's Subie is... ... 1986, So we both have Inboard Factory A/C. That explains it. Kind Regards.

But I'm open minded to any other Ideas / Info \ Documents that might proof otherwise... So, correct me if I'm wrong.

Very Kindly let me tell you, Gloyale: in my own humble opinion, you have the info Backwards. The Inboard A/C compressors are the Factory installed ones; the outboard A/C compressors are the Dealer installed ones. So, in order to stop the confusion, Trident and I found this: inboard A/C compressor = Factory A/C with two V Belts = Waterpump with 110 mm tall shaft. Kind Regards.

On the Subject, very kindly let me tell you that, beside the Turbo Models, which came with 25 inner splines, the rest of the Subarus with same Body and engine than yours, made from late 1984 (as 1985 models) up to 1994, (Usually know by engine designation: EA82) will use the same axles than yours, with 23 inner splines; so you have more year models that fit, beside yours. To elongate the Constant Velocity Joints' Lifespan, I kindly suggest you to use the Best MoS2 Based Grease intended for C. V. Joints. Beside the Subaru Original Axles, I've heard that the EMPI Axles has better quality than the rest. Kind Regards.

Many thanks to you, Trident, for the Photos and Measurements. I Measured my Brand New NPW Japanese Waterpump exactly as you did, and the Measurement is Equal to yours: 110 mm ... ... Despite that the Website (posted above on Post Nº 7) says it should be a 105 mm one... However, I'm glad I obtained the Right Waterpump for my "BumbleBeast" Kind Regards.

Good Luck! I Bet it will come back to you, Fixed and Ready... Can't wait to see your Awesome FF1 Running on its own power! Kind Regards.

Yep, you're Right... I only repeated what the ad said. Long years ago I had the opportunity here in Honduras, to ride in a FF1 coupe; it belonged to a Friend's dad, by the way, it had front "inboard" disc brakes... It was sold to some guy in Nicaragua and we never saw it again... The old thing felt pretty fast for its age... and the Steerin' wheel felt enormous for actual standards, I believe the Oversize was to compensate the lack of power assistance. Kind Regards.

If so, Eventually the "Ultimate EA82" will become onto another "EJ Swap" one... Let me show you an Example of an Ultimate EA82 Body with EJ Swap build: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126559-retro-gl-10-turbo-build/page-13 Kind Regards.

If the Vacuum lines are good, you might consider this Idea: Sometimes valve body and internals gets sticky by dirt, gum and varnish from age and old oils, so I Fixed similar issues on my Wife's car by Pouring a can of Seafoam "TransTune" and running it for a While... then Flushed almost all ATF oil out, removed the Transmission's oil pan and cleansed everything I could inside, then poured fresh High Mileage ATF + half pint of Lucas ATF additive. Kind Regards.

My subie's setup seems to be identical to yours... If you remove your Subie's Waterpump, please give us Feedback (and Photos if you could) of the Waterpump and the measurement of the Shaft tall it uses. Kind Regards.

You could consider to cut one and a half turns from the Tempo coil springs, as other USMB members has done it also. You're Welcome, Kind Regards.

This is an Awesome 1969 Subaru FF1, well preserved (Only 84K Kilometers ~ 52K Miles) Not restored; many Photos here: ~► http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/SUBARU_OTHER/700050416520131107001/index.html

The spray can is WD-40 Penetrating oil, isn't it? I Like this comment on your YouTube's Video Description: Very True! Kind Regards.

I Agree... To buy a Subaru EJ22 Engine and retrofit it on an older EA engined Subaru, is Cheaper and has -almost- all the power and performance improvements that the Older gen of Subarus' owners want to gain, plus it is Reliable and doesn't need added stuff such like SuperChargers or Turbos to gain some good Hp over the EA82... In my personal case, I'll keep the Good Ol' EA82 weberized and drive it 'till it becomes too worn to fix, but being at 300K miles is somehow at its middle of its life ... ... Kind Regards.