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Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Everything posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  1. Some background info: ~► http://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-Electric-Car ~► http://www.ev-america.com If you want an Adapter plate + mounting hardware to couple the Subaru transmission to an Electric Motor, you can obtain it, here: ~► http://www.electriccarinternational.com/Adapter-Plates-and-Mounting-Hardware.php Kind Regards.
  2. Maybe you'll find my question Foolish, but still I'll let it Go: If you really want Torque at Low RPM's, very kindly, let me ask if you already considered the option of converting your Vehicle, to Electric Motor(s)? You Know: Instant full Torque, despite the Motor's RPM's. There shouldn't exist anything better for that purpose. Maybe you could find not too expensive electric conversion designs online; I saw once an 1980's Jeep wagon converted to twin electric motors and a Battery Pack in the Rear... and you can use a small power plant to recharge / keep power anywhere... Kind Regards.
  3. Maybe you'll find my question Foolish, but still I'll let it Go: Have you "Moved" (driven) your Subaru after the Front suspension changes? Because if it is still in the Place where you mounted, it could seem to keep the Camber issues. The Wheels will move to a more "Confortable" position after the car is driven a Little. Those are Words of Wisdom... ... Be Careful! Why don't you post here Photos of your "Welding Together" job on the Rear Suspension? So we could tell you if your Subie became a Risk on your Safety... Maybe is good Idea to Sell the Lift Kit in order to get healthy, unwelded the Rear Suspension parts for your Subie. Kind Regards.
  4. Well... First you wrote that your Camber issues were due the Lift Kit, then you wrote that said issues were due the Tempo coil Springs... very kindly let me tell you that the 180º inverted camber correction install on the Strut top Blocks was the Cause, but coil springs not; because they has nothing to do with camber; so maybe your subie is in dire need of an Alignment. Kind Regards.
  5. Much more Photos... ... Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131098-dohc-ea82-aviation/ Kind Regards.
  6. Here is a Video of the Prototype's first starting:
  7. Yes, no "Stock" EA engines such Power increase, the main bottleneck are the Heads; but if you have enough money, you can purchase an Aviation version of the EA81 / EA82 with Huge improvement on their heads; such like these: How about DOHC 16 Valve's heads for the EA82, made by AutoFlight, in Nz:
  8. What is the idea of having twin snorkels in front? Those Huge rear Exhaust pipes' Heat will burn out the surrounding paint, unless they're fake... It is not criticism only, but I don't understand how the Driver will safely drive with the Huge "Thing" in the hood ... ... Recently I had to drive a Wedding car and the Huge ornament in front was obstructing the visibility enough to be Unsafe. Kind Regards.
  9. Is hard to be 100% sure by only lookin' at Photos, but I bet it is not a Carter, nor a Weber... it looks to me like an Hitachi. Kind Regards.
  10. Please post here Feedback in order to help others that Might be experiencing same problems with theirs Subies. Kind Regards.
  11. According to his Post: If he obtained a K731 Kit from Redline / Weber It is intended to Retrofit this Carb on the EA82; So, it should came with 140 Low / 140 High Jettings. Kind Regards.
  12. My 1985 "BumbleBeast" EA82 has Factory "inboards" A/C, and the Waterpump seems to be: ... So 110? ... Even more confusion to the Mix, because this seems to be backwards comparing to the above posts, Such like These: Maybe I'll wait 'till the Moment I do the Timin' Belts Job, in order to Remove the Stock, 300K Miles old WaterPump, to see if it is 105 or 110 mm tall shaft...
  13. I Agree with WoodsWagon. Also, about this: Very kindly let me tell you that I drive my 2" lifted 1985 Subaru EA82 "BumbleBeast" Wagon, with beefy 25" tires as daily driver (since years ago) during week days; and as offroading machine during weekends; and I will Never go back to Stock suspension, Never. My Subie feels identically safe and Handles the Same than it used with Stock height; but beefier tires and stiffer suspension added more "Sporty" Control to it; because the Lift kit keeps the Stock Geometry, while the Stiffer Springs I used were from used cars at a Junk Yards; so they are not as stiff as Brand New ones. Very Respectfully let me Suggest you an Idea: if you could not lift nor align your subaru properly... Why don't you take it to a "Professional" USMB member who could help you? I Bet that more than one USMB Member will be Glad to do that Lift / Alignment job with You... I would help you if I wouldn't live so far away... Good Luck, Kind Regards.
  14. My beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" Wagon, is 1985 like yours; it has been part of my family since then... is a Dream too. Kind Regards.
  15. I bet that some of those wires has cracked plastic insulators, so, change them or isolate them with enough isolating tape could be the Solution; if you could determine that the source of the purple arch is on said area. Kind Regards.
  16. Sometimes different automobile makers, does share certain parts which usually are made by one of them or a third party; in the case of Old-School Subarus, Fuji Heavy Industries (The Subaru's parent co.) made the LSD Differentials for Subarus and Datsuns / Nissans; another third party companies such like Hitachi, Nippon Denso, Panasonic, etc... made parts that were used in few different brands of cars. if the Honda and the Subaru advances shares the same mounting base design, I bet that both Distribuitors were made by the same Company and could move the same amount. In example, The Nippon Denso Distribuitors found on 2WD EA82's are almost identical to the certain Suzuki Vitara Distribuitors, also made by Nippon Denso; the main difference is the Side of said disty, where the wires comes out. I Kindly suggest you to compare both advances outside the distribuitor, you can measure the amount of movement each arm has. Kind Regards.
  17. Important details, such as Subaru Model / Year \ Kind of Engine are Missing; but by reading this: If the RPM's needle quit working, it means that the Ignition Module inside the Distribuitor is about to say good bye; but since you wrote that the Heater also quit; perhaps it could be a Loose Fusible Link, and / or Loose Wires \ Blown fuse. I Kindly suggest you to Start checking the Wirings. Kind Regards.
  18. Here it is: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/92467-power-window-repair/ Kind Regards.
  19. It depends on what are the plans to that car; if it is a parts car and despite that, it wasn't overheatin' too hard, I bet that it could make the 30 mile trip...
  20. ~► http://noticias.destacados.cl/2013/02/18/subaru-1800-station-wagon-4wd-glf-4mt-modelo-top-de-subaru-en-los-80s/
  21. As far as I know, There are four (4) versions of the A/C compressors for the EA82 engined Subarus; Hitachi, Nippondenso, Panasonic inboard and Panasonic outboard. The difference between the two Panasonic systems is the location of the compressor only; but the most usual ones are these: ► The Factory A/C has the Compressor installed between the Power Steering Pump and the Alternator, and thus means it is an "Inboard" A/C = Factory, usually Hitachi but there could be Panasonic and the more scarse Nippon Denso. ► The Dealer installed A/C has the Compressor installed "outside" Near the Battery, and the Alternator is the one that gets between said Compressor and the Power Steering Pump; and thus means it is an "Outboard" A/C = Dealer option, Panasonic. So, my 1985 EA82 with Factory installed hitachi inboard compressor, and according to the above written answers, it uses the 105 mm tall Water pump. Kind Regards.
  22. Unless it is a Fram Filter, which my "BumbleBeast" Blows too, in that case is due to the Low placement of the Threaded hole on the Filter, which only allows to grab one and a half or two turns, which is not enough to held it in place. Which oil filter are you using? Kind Regards.
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