Loyale 2.7 Turbo

My Subaru "BumbleBeast" has V belts ... The Flat ribbed belt came on the EA82's with Spider intake Manifold (XT's) isn't it? That is Why the info on e-Bay is confusing, they wrote that it fits the XT and the DL, and DL's here came without A/C. This is the Straight kind of Answer I was Lookin' for! Thanx, Kind Regards.

Many thanks for my Friends who are searching for those Elusive Rear Disc Brakes, in USA More information on this thread: ~► Here Kind Regards.

For much Further details, information & Photos about the Brakes issues on the Second Gen Kia Sephia, please read this Thread: ~► Here. Kind Regards.

Thanks, I Know I could do that, but somehow my Question remains unanswered: Kind Regards.

Sound like a stuck open PCV Valve or a way off timing, but always start with the Basics: ► Have you tried "Fine Tuning" it with the Idle Mixture adjustin' screw? It could be too Tight or too Loose. ► Are the choke's flapper butterflies properly Adjusted? If they're loose, they could restrict the air flow at idle. ► Have you tried to soak it with enough Carb Cleaner? It could have a Gum / varnish buildup at the Air needle. ► Have you already adjusted the Idle Speed screw? If it is too Low, the engine will shoot off everytime the choke fully opens. Kind Regards.

I has been worried about the Water pump on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" because its EA82 engine has been working since year 1985 with the factory Water Pump (Maybe it has lasted more because I run it without thermostat since that year... or maybe I just has been Lucky), I've never changed that so far, but it already has more than 300K miles and I'm planning to do a Timin' belt job next year, so a Fresh Water Pump should be added then. So some month ago, I started collecting parts to do said timing belt job, and I obtained locally a Brand New Water Pump which came inside a "Beck-Arnley" box, part Number 131-2027 and the Water Pump itself says: "NPW Made in Japan" According to ~► this web site, that water pump is 105 mm but there says it Fits the "Subaru DL and the Subaru XT" ... my Question is due to that somehow confusing info: My 1985 EA82 Subaru GL wagon with factory (inboard hitachi) A/C uses the 105 or the 110 mm tall Water pump? Kind Regards.

C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S !!!

Despite that this is Not a Subaru, a Good Friend of mine is building this Solid Axle 4Runner... ...and I bet that you'll like his Front Bumper Design, made of Thick (and heavy) metal.

You're Welcome! Have you already checked the Fusible Links on the Engine Bay? Sometimes corrosion is Hiding on their contacts...

Well, about the Relays and Wirings, I kindly suggest you to review this Writeup: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ Meanwhile, I recall that Txakura had similar situation and Found cutted wires on the wiring harness behind the Driver's side fender: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/24584-power-windows-again/page-2?do=findComment&comment=778292 Edit, I found his complete Writeup here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/92467-power-window-repair/ Good Luck! Kind Regards.

So, here's the Main Culprit of all the Rear Drum brakes' problems on the Second Gen Kia Sephia: The "Strut" adjuster which never works... notice the tiny teeth it has.

The photos sent by the one that contacted me, showed that the "Strut" adjuster had deployed abnormally, and was touching the lug bolt's heads on the wheel hub on each rotation... that was the source of the noise he heard. After comparing with my Wife's "KiaStein" setup, I found that he had installed backwards one side's "Strut" adjuster ... ... considering that those strut adjusters are little less than useless, to find that they could be installed backwards and create such kind of risky problems, only makes those rear drum brakes to be even worse. I took some more photos and sent 'em back to him along an explanation...

This is How I Found the Self "Strut" Regulator in the Still Dirty interior: Despite that it looked so Close to the Head of the Lug bolt... ...You can see more clear after I cleansed the Area without moving anything (I used Compressed Air) ... ... That the Strut Adjuster doesn't touch said bolt's head.

Other people that had experienced the same Rear Drum Brakes' problems on same model Kia, contacted me via Private Messages asking advice. A guy send me Photos of his Sephia's rear drum brakes setup, because his car, beside the above explained problems with such rear drum brakes, also developed a weird "clunck" sound in one side. I Printed the Three (3) Photos he sent and took them with me when I made the monthly adjustment to my Wife's "KiaStein" rear drum brakes, for comparison purposes. Let me Share some Photos taken during the Rear Drum Brakes' adjustment procedure: I Removed the Rim... ...and Started to Disassembly everything... As you can see, the interior was pretty Dusty, that dust comes from the Brake Shoes as they wear, so is Normal to have certain amount of Dust buildup, and said dust makes the shoes to be noisy as they rub against the drum during "soft" Braking.

You're Welcome!

It is Easy: If you forget about the Oil Catch Can, these simple three steps are the Way to do it: ► The Driver's Side hose is the one that Sends the Fumes to be Sucked by the PCV Valve, so you must place a 5/8" Hose from that side's head cover to the PCV Valve, ► The other side (Passenger's Side) is the one that sucks fresh air from the Air filter box, so you must place another 5/8" hose, from that side's head cover to the Air filter Box. ► You must use a "T" inbetween the Driver's Side 5/8" Hose, in order to do a 3/8" Detour to the Air filter Box, in order to Lower the Pressure on the System and thus means to prevent oil from being sucked by the PCV Valve. I Already placed Photos and same explanation, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82´s/#entry1027151 Kind Regards.

Why not get rid of that Hitachi and do a Weber Swap? = Even More awesomeness to gain. I Like the Brown colour of your Subie. Yes, You're Right. Kind Regards.

Wiring New Relays Basically talkin', you only need three (3) wires in order to get a Relay properly working, to Power a Device (Such like Horn, Halogens, etc...) 1► the Positive input shall be placed in two Spades, the Nº 30 (which is the High Power positive imput, directly from battery - To be Transferred to the Device once the Relay is On) and to the Spade Nº 86 (Positive switchin' signal) and those could have power permanently. 2► The Switching (On / Off) Signal, comes in from the Ground, sent by a Grounded Switch on the Dashboard (or wherever you might want to put the Ground source, such like a High / Low Beams' stick, Horn button, etc...) It goes to Spade Nº 85 3► The Positive Power Output to Power the Device, (Halogens, Horn, etc...) goes out from Spade Nº 87 Of course you could use a Positive signal (+) to switch the Relay on /off instead the Ground, But that's a Four (4) wiring install. In such case, the Relay's ground shall be Permanently connected to Spade Nº 85, and the Direct Positive imput shall goes to Spade Nº 30 ONLY, then you use a Low power positive as Switching signal on Spade Nº 86. Remember: Nº 87 is always the Power Output for the Device. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ I have a couple of Pictorial Diagrams to Help you in How to Wire New Relays; you can find one of those in my other writeup, named: ~► "How to Wire Dual Electric Fans on a Subaru EA82" This is the Picture: Also I posted another Pictorial Diagram, in my Wife's car Thread: ~► "The KiaStein" This is the Picture: If you find this writeup, Useful, please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button below. I only ask this as a Motivation to continue Sharing my work with you. Kind Regards.

Well, for some time I slipped half of a Plastic card, with the Size of a Credit Card, between the Top of the Side Window's upper plastic trim and the Roof, and the other half outside held the Sun Visor up. Kind Regards.

My 1985 "BumbleBeast" does have ignition Controlled Lights, so if you leave the Lights' Switch "On" they will turn off when the Engine is turned Off and will go back to On when the Engine is turned On... or when the key is in the "on" Position. The Parking Lights could be Lit, with an "Extra" Left position the Lights Switch Knob on the Dashboard has, you only need to Press inwards the Switch Knob and turn it furter left than the Off Position, that will Lit the Front Corner Lights and the Rear Red Lights, but not the instrument Cluster / Dashboard buttons. Kind Regards.

Of course you could use a Positive signal (+) to switch the Relay on /off instead the Ground, but in such case, the Relay's ground shall be Permanently connected, and the Direct Positive imput shall goes to Spade Nº 30 ONLY, then you use a Low power positive on Spade Nº 86 to send the Switching Signal. But that's a Four wiring install. Kind Regards.

Basically talkin', you only need three (3) wires in order to get a Relay properly working, to Power a Device (Such like Horn, Halogens, etc...) 1► the Positive input shall be placed in two Spades, the Nº 30 (which is the High Power positive imput, directly from battery - To be Transferred to the Device once the Relay is On) and to the Spade Nº 86 (Positive switchin' signal) and those could have power permanently. 2► The Switching (On / Off) Signal, comes from the Ground, sent by a Grounded Switch on the Dashboard (or wherever you might want to put the Ground source, such like a High / Low Beams' stick, Horn button, etc...) It goes to Spade Nº 85 3► The Positive Power Output to Power the Device, (Halogens, Horn, etc...) goes from Spade Nº 87

Yes, I have a couple of Pictorial Diagrams; you can find one of those in my other writeup, named: ~► "How to Wire Dual Electric Fans on a Subaru EA82" This is the Picture: Also I posted another Pictorial Diagram, in my Wife's car Thread: ~► "The KiaStein" This is the Picture: I Hope you'll find those Useful. Kind Regards.

Usually, it becomes loose because the internal clamp breaks... I've solved that issue in other cars by adding an "External" clamp over the broken one, it doesn't look good but is not much noticeable, and works flawlessly. See Photo Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101718-kia-sephia-sporty/page-8?do=findComment&comment=1120338 Kind Regards.

Also it worth to check the condition of the PCV Valve, lots of stalling and bogging problems I've solved on EA Engined Subarus, were related to Stuck open PCV valves. Kind Regards.