Jump to content
Registrations ×
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Registrations

Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    7840

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    235

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  1. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    The Synchronous 38/38 DGAS Weber ... take a look at the Linkage between both Stages, behind the acceleration plate: If Both Butterflies moves at the same time, all the time the Throttle position moves, it is a 38/38 DGAS (or bigger numbered, like the 48, etc...), But if one stage opens after the other have reached already half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber, such like the popular 32/36 DEGV. The Synchronous Webers, such like the 38/38 DGAS are more used to Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both Huge Jets opens at the Same Time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carb as daily driver, it will be a Gas guzzler, compared to the Progressive Webers, like the 32/36 where you commute with only one stage (with Small Jetting), usually; and the High stage (with Bigger Jetting) is used during deep acceleration only. If the 38/38 DGAS has the Same Base than the 32/36 DEGV (And I'm almost sure that is the Case) you can use a Redline adapter plate to put it on the Subaru's intake manifold. Kind Regards.
  2. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    I Completely Agree with grossgary. Kind Regards.
  3. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    There's a Reason Why Subaru shows Different Oil Viscosities to be Used on EA engines, (As you can see on the Owner's Manual) depending on Climates as I Wrote above; other car makers has stated the same. These are Scans of my 1983 Subaru Owner's Manual: Very Kindly I suggest you to See the Engine Oils' Writeup I posted, following the Link found on Post Nº 4 of this thread, then scroll down there; you'll reach a Downloadable .pdf document file that shows an Australian Test done to explain how a thin or thick film of oil behaves on engine's internals. Worth Downloading (is a small file with Photos) and Reading. (Has Few Pages) Kind Regards.
  4. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    How often you use it for mountain Trials? ... If you Also use it as daily Driver? In my Case, I chose 25" tires and 2" lift because my "Mixed" kind of Driving: 40% Offroading on Weekends + 60% of on road duty, 'cos is my Daily driver, Also I Placed a Weber Carb ... I don't have Dual Range, but my "BumbleBeast" goes Strong Everywhere with that Combo. Kind Regards.
  5. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    That is Sad somehow ... The Local Subaru Dealer kept spare parts since the 1960's decade, but it was a one-man owned company and since he died, his only Daughter sold everything to scrap in order to free the Huge Buildings it has all across the country and rent them... (That is even Worse) ...So it became hard to obtain spare subaru parts locally. Kind Regards.
  6. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    You're Welcome, my Dear Friend. I Hope that Mikaleda has solved the Problem with Those Headlamps. I've helped many Local EA82 owners to solve similar electrical problems, And always I chose to get rid of the Stock Round Relays and Swap Bosch Standard ones. Kind Regards.
  7. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Well... 20W~50 is Good for Hot Climates, but not good at Cold Starting on Cold Climates on which you shall switch to 10W~30. Kind Regards.
  8. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Yes, that is Cool! ... ... Thanks for Sharing.
  9. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Yes, I kindly suggest you to start by Switching Relays and see if the Problem goes elsewhere. Don't forget that the Ignition Key controls those relays, that is the reason why if you turn the key to OFF the Headlamps will go OFF, no matter if the Headlamps' Switch is in ON ... that is the reason why I wrote that the Headlamps themselves receives a permanent positive input, which exists every time the ignition key is turned to ON. Kind Regards.
  10. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Awesome! ... I'll Like to see Photos of your Subie. Kind Regards.
  11. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    I Did a Short Video that day, of my Mercury Starting after Eight Months, you can see it Here: Let me Know What do you Think about it... Kind Regards.
  12. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    I Found "FoMoCo" Emblazoned on the Radiator's upper Tank:
  13. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    After the Radiator was Fixed, I did a Coolin' system Flush, poured fresh coolant and cleansed the Radiator's outer side for anti-Rust painting:
  14. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Photos, Please! What could have caused that loss of compression? Broken Rings? ... Loose Valve? I Hope that you'l fix it soon. Can't access that content, I believe it is a Private content for Friends only. Kind Regards.
  15. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    After the Brake Job was Done, I took my Mercury for a Ride... to the Radiator Shop! I Had Eight Months without going to my Parents' Home at my Hometown (My Job is Far Away on the Continental Honduras), so it Developed some Rust on the Radiator's upper tank ... they Removed the Radiator from the Car and cutted a piece of Rusted metal of around Five inches Long X one inch tall. As you can see in the Following Photo:
  16. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    I also made that to the Rear Drum Brakes:
  17. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    This is How I installed the New Brake Hoses: So I made a Brake Job, that involved Cleansing all the Parts and Draining all the Old Brake Fluid out from the System:
  18. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    So, I obtained a Pair of "Custom Made" Brake Fluid Hoses for both front Calipers, each one has a Nylon Core instead the old Metallic one:
  19. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Time for an Update. Almost four years passed by since my last post here, my Mercury is Still working very fine and Strong in my HomeTown!... (it is always at my Parents' Home) ...the only fail it developed years ago, was the Faulty Water inlet pipe on the Engine, which I managed to get one Custom Casted here in Honduras (As I Explained in the Above Posts) but after all these 44 years of Driving in our Horrid Roads, it finally developed two more fails. Rotten Brake Hoses and Rusted Radiator's Upper Tank. There are Two Brake Hoses that delivers fluid from the Mercury's Chassis to each front Caliper, both where custom made here, during the Front Disc Brakes' Swap (I did it in 1996) and they had a Metallic core that rusted and due to the wheel's movement it stretched too many times that finally they were Blown... thanks God its Parking Brake (Which is a fourth Pedal) is Strong Enough to Stop the Car. There are another one (Only one) Brake Hose for the Rear Drum Brakes, which comes from the Chassis and goes to a "T" above the Huge Differential; that delivers fluid equally to both rear Drum Brakes.
  20. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    There should be a Difference: 5W~30 should be Easier on Cold Starting and acceleration (Energy Conserving Oil) but it will develop more engine internal's wear on the Long Run, than using the Thicker 10W~40 for sure. Kind Regards.
  21. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    I Agree, the Clutch Fan is not a good Idea at all, I removed it and retrofitted Twin Electric Fans, also I posted a Complete Writeup with Photos, explaining such retrofitting procedure in five easy steps. The Writeup is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Kind Regards.
  22. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    If you read my Writeup, which is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ You'll notice that I used the Honda ACCORD coil Springs, instead of the Civic ones, also the Ford Tempo has Two Different coil Springs... Look at my Writeup for part Numbers. Kind Regards.
  23. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Sorry to Disagree, but a Cheapo motor Oil will make things to worn even Worse and faster. This is an Excerpt of my Motor Oils' Writeup: You must choose between the Oil Viscosity and Additive Pack that best fit your Engine's age, your Kind of Driving and the Climate of the World's area where you Live; so the Smart choice is always to choose the better motor oil to Achieve the Balance between flow and usage, because a very thin motor oil will help you to save Gas (Energy Conserving) but will worn faster the engine's internals than a Thicker motor oil, but if you go too thick, the low flow pressure could worn things faster too. You can Reach the Full Writeup, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126284-how-to-determine-which-is-the-best-motor-oil-for-your-car/ Kind Regards.
  24. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    I've been Following this thread since its very beginnings... In the U.S.A, some car Dealers mark the oldest parts that did not sell, As "Unsold" parts, and before disposal (for smelting, in example) they disable the part; So, the Subaru Dealer drilled Holes to that Block, unfortunately... But somehow never went to Scrap. How the problem was discovered: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/77261-documented-the-1970-ff-1-project-car/?p=1026692 Then: I Asked why the Block was Drilled, and this was the answer: Kind regards.
  25. Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    As far as I Know: Subaru used the Same proportioning measurements on both rear brakes' systems, Drum or Disc; I did the Rear disc brakes' Swap years ago without changin' anything on the Brakes' Lines nor Master Cylinder, and the Car works Awesome, without issues; even with the Rear Honda Calipers. Kind Regards.
×
×
  • Create New...