Loyale 2.7 Turbo

If you replace the Studs with Screws (In example, when doing an electric fan retrofitting, removing the Clutch Fan) The Right Replacement Screws for the pulley are: M 6 X 12 mm with 1.0 Pitch. You Shall Use Lockin' Washers because they not only Lock the Screws in Place, they also reduce the 12 mm screw's Lenght to a safer 10 mm to avoid contact on the Waterpump's shaft. Maybe you used different Meausurement Screws? Kind Regards.

The problem is the Relay for that Headlamp itself, there are Two, one for each Headlamp, but each one ALSO controls other things... all the needed info has been covered in the Following Writeup: Here ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ The Headlamps always receive a permanent Positive (12V+) imput, the so a failing relay which switches grounds, could lead to a Headlamp that stays ON and dim... Kind Regards.

Go Ahead and Do It! I've seen a Loyale here with all the Legacy Running Gear (Engine & Transmission) retrofitted and becomes a Very Nice & Fast car, but I'm not sure how the Local Mechanic managed to do the Axles (an Hybrid Axle perhaps?). Kind Regards.

Yes. by the Way, I Run my Carburated "BumbleBeast" Subaru and my Wife's EFI "KiaStein" without Thermostat for three reasons that only works at the Caribbean area and similar climate zones of the World. First: Here Never Snows. Second: Temperature here doesn't go Too Low, nor Too High; Third: Without Thermostat, the Car's Engine only takes a couple of Minutes more to reach its Normal Operatin' Temps. Have you ever considered the option to run it without Thermostat for a While, in order to stablish if your engine does not have a Head Gasket Problem? Because it probably was running low on coolant and thus explains the Air Bubble. Kind Regards.

That Subaru is Very Beautiful, I Like it! Only for sharing information: The LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) is full of Touring Wagons, because people here prefered them over standard wagons; so you can see Touring Wagons of those EA81 (Leone) the EA82 (Loyale) and even Legacy. What are your Plans with that Nice Touring Wagon? Kind Regards.

Stuck Thermostat? But you're Alright, isn't it? ... Hot antifreeze is very Dangerous...

I could advice to Change all the Vacuum Hoses if they're Old & Brittle, also a Carburator rebuild is Good Idea if you suspect it is Acting... and those Hitachi Carbs are a True Nightmare, I Swapped a 32/36 Weber Carb on my '85 "BumbleBeast" Years ago and never had a Carb issue so Far, plus gained Low end Torque and Boxer Engine Rumble Noise! Also check the Timin' Belts, and if the initial timing is properly set, maybe your engine needs a Full Tune Up, you know... SparkPlugs, Fuel Filter, etc... Kind Regards.

The Reason must be the Easiness of Swapping a Simple Engine which runs with Distribuitor & Carburetor, instead all the EFi Stuff, Wire Harness, ECU, Timin' Belts, etc... The USDM didn't get the EJ Engines that came factory with Carb & Disty, like the LADM. (Latin American Domestic Market) Kind Regards.

Seems like it will not be too hard to do, but it will be Tricky, on mounting points and the area where the Windshield and the doors meet the fenders; but the Final result will look as Awesome as your Photoshopped image. Kind Regards.

What was your Goal on Changing those Rotors? If you want to use another set of Rims in other than 4X140, you have other Cheap options, such as Re-Drill the Hubs. I Changed my Subie from 4X140 to 4X114.3 around fifteen years ago, and I've never had any issues with that. Kind regards.

In order to take a Better & Sharper Photo of the Lit instrument Cluster in the Dark, I Kindly suggest you to: ► put your Digital Camera in ten seconds Countdown automatic photo mode, and ► set the Flash to "Off" then ► place the camera in a Stable placement, and ► leave the Car: Let it do its Job alone; That will lead to a Slow exposure due to lack of illumination and flash, and since it should be no movement at all, the Photo must look sharp & Clear. Kind regards.

My Friend Gonzalo Lara, from Chile, did the LED Bulbs Retrofitting on a Digital EA82 instrument Cluster, Look Here to see the Photos: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led´s/?p=1156772 Kind Regards.

I am one of those who have used Tempo Coil Springs on EA82 Subarus, and as far as I Know the V6 Tempos with Auto Trans + A/C uses a Coil Spring which is way too stiff, some USMB members have cutted one and a half turns out of those in order to let them work; I used the ones from a 4 Cyl, engined Tempo with manual trans, also the ones I used where from a Junk Yard, so they were not too stiff, I used them Without cutting anything. The Part Numbers of those two different Tempo's Coil Springs are given in This Writeup: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ I Guess that you obtained the Stiffer ones. Kind Regards.

AWESOME! I will Like to see and / or Know more info about the "Self Ported Intake" and how did you Relocate the Oil Filter. Kind regards.

Oh No !!! Another One ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140362-80-tie-dye-subaru-on-craigslist/

... could you post a Photo of the Engine Bay? ... Maybe you removed certain components along the EA Engine. Kind regards.

The whole setup has more than a Year working Flawlessly, and the car does look more Modern, without adding a mess of other parts, somehow by this way, it looks standard, especially with headlights off when the LED Lights are almost unnoticeable. Let me know what do you Think about this mod. Kind Regards.

Comparison Side by Side, with the Camera White (Light) Balance at the Lowest setting: Headlight off: Headlight On:

Notice that the Main Headlights are off...

Photo at Dusk: Photo at Night: Yes, the Windshield Washers lit too... Someone stolen the original ones at the Parkin' Lot (Good Excuse, isn't it?)

My Wife Loves the Looks of the "KiaStein" with those White LED Lights. I Wired them to the courtesy lights (Passing Lights) plugs, so they'll lit along them. I Tried to take Photos of those during Night times, BUT to take a Photo of Direct Lights isn't easy... I Had to set manually the White (Light) Balance on my Camera to the Lowest setting, in order to avoid the natural distortion, so the Resulted pictures are Deep Dark... but they gives the Idea.

I Re-Sealed the HeadLamps, using enough "Mega-Grey" Silicone, generously Smeared on both sides, (The polycarbonate Lenses and the Back Base) and this is How the Final product looks like:

You can see the Wiring coming through a tiny hole, the LED lights' stripe is held in place with a couple of drops of Clear Epoxy Glue, but isn't really needed, because the Polycarbonate lenses will press the stripe against the reflective body, curving it along the outer headlamp's design.

Right Side: Left Side: From Behind:

So, I found the better placement for those LED's inside the Headlamps: Diagonally between the Main Headlamp and the Built-in Corner Lights, as you can see in the Following Photos: