Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Any News on the install?

Something Similar here, I noticed that my Weberized "BumbleBeast" love Higher RPM's since long years ago, but I feel that "Pull" starting from 3K... it became More noticeable since my EA82 is 2" Lifted and runs on 25" tires. I Usually Shift gears in the 3K ~ 4K band. I Agree with You... Those Weberized EA82's feel more Powerful than their EFi counterparts, but maybe it is because the Added Noise under acceleration Kind Regards.

"Stock Carb" are key words here... the Hitachi carburetor on those EA82 engines, has many vacuum hoses, some of those goes to the carbon canister, some others are tiny 1/8" and 3/16" for vacuum purposes... The Hitachi carb has two thicker hoses in the Top, one in front and one in rear of the center bowl's (opening) top, if those are Misplaced or open to the Air, the car will start and run normally when first started cool at morning, or after a while... but after certain time / engine temp, the engine will have the exact behaviour that you described: "shuts off randomly and wont start back up". So I kindly suggest you to check for Unplugged / Cracked \ Misplaced Hoses. If you're not sure about those, you can do a small test: Cap close all the Bigger Hoses' ports at the Carburetor (Except Fuel-in Line and Fuel-Return Line of course) and try to drive the car like that for a while to see if the problem dissapears. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

I Agree GD, you're Right. The Subaru Extra-S is an outstanding oil, way better than almost the rest available for Manual Transmissions on the Market... and is so Sad that the Local Subaru dealer does not bring it here, to my Country, and it should be a Similar story in the rest of Latin America: Impossible to Obtain Locally... While Motul is almost everywhere. The Explanation (a li'l off-topic but just to share extra background info) is that the Central-American republics' commonwealth has a Free trade (Non-Tax) Agreement with Europe, the USA, Canada and Mexico; so our products does not get Taxed in those countries while their products aren't taxed in our market; so you'll see Plenty of products made in those countries, at very competitive prices in our local market... maybe that is the Reason those European Oils are so widely used here... In Example, a Gallon of Motul 2000 Series 20W~50 "Made in France" Gasoline motor oil, cost Less than an equivalent Castrol "Made in USA" oil. Please forgive me for my long explanations... Kind Regards.

Congratulations! ... I'm Glad that you Fixed that!

I have a Complete set of Rear Drum Brakes for the EA82 already changed to that 4X114.3 pattern, with almost new rear shoes, in good working condition, just to install and use; but I'm so far away... the Shipping costs could be high.

Dear GD, very respectfully let me write, about this: In my case there was No problem at all on my Subie's 5MT, but the Shifting was Hard (It became Harder with time, even using the best 80W~90 APi GL-5 Gearbox oil as suggested) so I choosed that 80W~90 Special formula oil with Liquid MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) not for "Fix" a Problem, but to "Improve" things... And that oil did the Job very well: the Manual transmission became Smoother to shift and as side effect, the M0S2 will extend its lifespan ... ... So, if there were a "Problem" that needed to be Fixed, I would remove the Transmission from the Car to do a Real Fix, but no; it was not a problem, just a desire to improve things while make 'em last longer. Kind Regards.

Good Job! ... Let's continue with the Research. Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! Good Idea! Well, that grease is designed for outstanding performance under heat & pressure conditions, here in my country is Widely used for Constant Velocity Joints, its known to made them last very much longer; I've used it on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" for years, in its Axles and its wheel bearings all around, with great results; also on many other cars' axles, always with great results. No, that Grease is not the same product Liquimoly for Gears. I've used it in Engines; recently I poured LubroMoly's engine treatment onto my Wife's "KiaStein" T8D engine and is Hard to tell you how much it has improved -or not- things inside that engine, but I've noticed a Smoother operation, Faster cold starts and a little gain in fuel consumption; also, since that engine does not have Thermostat, it takes Longer to reach its normal operating temperature since I poured that; so far... Also my Subaru "BumbleBeast" gearbox & Differential run with the above posted Motul 80W~90 oil with MoS2 added to its formula, since many years ago, it helps an old gearbox to work smooth. There those european LiquiMoly / Motul \ LubroMoly products are sold here almost everywhere, at every autoparts store, also the Local NAPA sold them; they are the usual sponsors for the many local AutoShows, as you can see, ~► Here. But I don't know where those products are Sold or distribuited in the USA, I kindly suggest to ask to GD where he obtained his Mutul Gearbox oil with MoS2... Also they're available online: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=liquimoly Kind Regards.

Very kindly, let me tell you that what you wrote, is True only if you use the Molybdenum Disulphide (MoS2) as an Additive to any Oil, but it is Not True if you use the only Patented formula that Liquifies the Molybdenum Disulphide, and instead of being an additive, it is Part of the Original Oil Formulation. The European Brands: LiquiMoly / Motul \ LubroMoly are the Only ones -as far as I know- which uses that patented Formula, So those are the Originals. See:~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liqui_Moly I've used European oils with Molybdenum Disulphide added to their formulation for more than fifteen years with Great, awesome results, every and each time. Those european brands are sold together by the same importer and has great precense in our Market for many years, those are Widely known here and has a Strong good Reputation between Mechanics; also Motul is the Subaru's Chosen Brand on Rallys... they Know why. I Agree. As I wrote, the Molybdenum Disulphide will not work properly when is Used as an Additive, unless it is that original formula, intended for Motor Oils. Again, I Agree, absolutely. I've used Motul Gearbox / diff oil with MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) Since many years ago, Always with Great Results; believe me: it REALLY Smoothes any Manual Gearbox I've poured it in (and I've used it in many, many cars, from friends' to my family cars, and someone else's cars I've serviced) so beside the extended life for a Gearbox / diff, it also makes it Smoother, I mean Softer shiftings and reduced noise & heat. This is the Gearbox / Differential Oil I've used on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru: Different Formulations of MoS2: MoS2 is Way Better than PTFE (Teflon) Additives such like Slick 50. Kind Regards.

Yes, those Old-School Subies has their own Personality and Soul! I Really appreciate your Kind Words! Kind Regards.

That crimp was New for me, I've never seen something like that Before... But I haven't serviced EA81 Heather cores too. I Believe it is good Idea to Try with it Straighten... if nothing changes, crimp it back again and install the New Heather Core. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

If you has not changed anything from its hardware, I Believe it has motherboard Damage, because as Toonga said, it should emit a series of "Beep" Noises telling you if that is a Video / RAM Memory \ LAN Card Fail; and if it is the Hard Drive which went bad, the BIOS will stamp you a Message on the Start Screen; so No Noise Nor Messages usually = Fried Motherboard. But I Suggest you to reassemble it again leaving the 4 pin connector that is in the middle of the board unplugged, and see if it Starts... Some motherboards could work without all the Power input plugs, because not all the Power Supplies got the other four-pin plugs. Good Luck!

I Agree... I really Believe that the 5W~30 is very Thin oil for those old Subie Engines; I've run my "BumbleBeast" with 20W~50 for Decades (Literally) without any oil issue. You can Read ~► Here an much better explanation on Motor Oils. Kind Regards.

Nice Blessing! Usually my threads are even worse: Lots of People reads them but almost Nobody comments.

Well... I don't know how to tell you that is a Wrong impression, about the Rear shock absorbers... Very Respectfully let me tell you that I've had side by side, the Rear 2WD Shock Absorber from a 2WD EA82 Wagon next to the Rear 4WD shock absorber from a 4WD EA82 Wagon, and both are identical, except for the base that each one has, for mounting the Coil Spring: the 2WD has it welded two inches Lower than the 4WD, (it is the same to say that the 4WD has it two inches upper from the 2WD ones) but Both Shock Absorbers has equal lenght & Design... Kind Regards.

Nice Legacy! ... I wish I could buy something similar for that price here, but Used cars are really Expensive in my Li'l Country. Kind Regards.

There is a Reason for that engine for being so Cheap: it Won't fit any LHD Subie... Nor your S10.

SOA has "Revealed" it ~► http://www.facebook.com/subaruofamerica Kind Regards.

I don't see the incorrect info, since I posted that for four lugs' EA82 subies with Rear Disc Brakes (as the Writeup settle on its very first lines), but Thank you for Clarifying... I thought I Read that the Parking Brake Mechanism on the Nissan's Tokiko Calipers are in the Way of the Subaru's Rear Axles. Kind Regards.

I've seen many Push Button LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs Dual Range EJ Subies in my Country, but... ...Why you call them: "True 4WD" ? Kind Regards.

Yes, that is a very easy Fix if you know how to Use a Soldering Pen or Soldering Gun, but I Kindly suggest you to use the Soldering wire which has rosin Core to do the Job Fast, to avoid more damage to the Board due to overheating. Old Subies' Clusters are Fast & Easy to Repair, specially if you compare them to some Newer car's Clusters, in example: My Wife's car hasn't a "Circuit Board" ... instead, it has a thin Plastic "Paper" with the electronics printed on it, and it is just placed "Over" the Cluster's back Plastic... Such a Nightmare: is as fragile as a butterfly's wing. Kind Regards.

The same here in Honduras... I went to many Local Toy Stores with my Baby Daughter... no one got them yet. The Local Wal-Mart employees said that they still are carrying Old-Stock toys, and since the local Children's day (Sept 10) they have not received anything new... But they'll receive a Lot of new Toys around Mid November ... ... I'll be Searchin' for at least One of those Pretty Brats. Kind Regards.

I Agree... my 1.8 EA82 engine does much better Mileage than my Wife's 1.8 T8D engine. Well... maybe it is working fine indeed: Remember that a Clean engine always run Cooler than a Dirty one; also you did something to the Radiator, isn't it? Kind Regards.

¿ ? I Believe that Both, Oversteer & Understeer could be Very Dangerous, but Some Drivers learnt to Deal with those Situations, always "Preffer" the one which tamed Better. I Swapped Rear Disc Brakes on my "BumbleBeast" without changin' anything else, and I even successfully added Rear Parking Brake to those, and I've never Locked a wheel under heavy braking situations with Disc Brake all around; but the Old Drums tend to Lock on Tight & Fast Turns, so Drums tend to be more Dangerous... Specially if they're not perfectly round anymore. Kind Regards.