Loyale 2.7 Turbo

The Second Cause for Weak Brake Power is the Cause of the Second Problem itself: Warped Rotors and Premature Pad Wear. The Cause for Premature Front pad Wear and Warped Rotors, was Not on the front Brakes themselves, (Calipers, Front Wheel Cylinders, Pads, etc... ) No. I Found the Problem that lead to the Front Brakes to have such Premature Wear, and believe me or not, the Culprit is on the Rear Brakes! ... ... Let me Explain: The Rear Drum Brakes has a Self Regulator that Moves the Rear shoes towards to the rotating Drum as they wear, in order to maintain the same distance between shoes and drum, that keeps the same travel on the Pedal before the Shoe touches the Drum, even if the shoe is worn. But since the Rear shoe Regulators fail to adjust the Shoes towards the Drum, the Rear wheel brake cylinder has to move its piston in a longer travel before the shoe touches the Drum, because the Shoes are "Far Away" deregulated. That means: When anybody pushes the Brake Pedal, the Front Pads will engage pressing the rotating Disc, while the Rear Shoes are doing almost Nothing to brake the Car, due to the "Far Away" deregulated Shoes, they barely touches the rotating Drums. So, the Front Disc Brakes will take the 90% of the Braking effort, while the Rear Drum Brakes will rotate almost freely... You Notice that your car has "Far Away" deregulated Shoes on the Rear drum brakes, if: You Need to Pull up the parking brake lever handle to the Top to hold the Car. The Brake Pedal feels too Low or it goes Deep before really braking the Car You have to push even "Deeper" the Brake Pedal while going in Reverse. So Basically talking, with those Faulty Rear Shoes Regulators, you have a four wheel car, being stopped -almost only- by the two front wheels, that Really leads to an extreme Heat working conditions on the Rotors, for their extra effort; so that explain the Warped Rotors and the Premature Wear on the Pads; isn't it?

You must consider that there are Two Problems with the Sephia's Brakes: Weak Brake Power. Front Rotor Warp and Premature Wear on Pads. The Weak Brake Power has Two Causes After I Disassembled almost everything on my Wife's Sephia, I Noticed that the Proportioning Valves, which are Located in the Firewall, behind the engine, has some sort of Design Flaw: Vertical Grooves. Those Vertical grooves made the Proportioning Valves to Leak Brake Fluid while letting Air to get sucked into the System; you can see the Leaky vertical grooves on the Sephia's Brass proportioning valves, in the Following Photo: Those were the Original (stock) Proportioning Valves, made of Brass... The Local Kia Dealer had the Replacement for those, but made from a different metal, which looks like Polished Stainless Steel with chromed tops, and Does NOT have the faulty Vertical Grooves, as you can see in the Following Photo: This is their Part Number: Think about this: Any Brake system that Loose Brake Fluid and gets air inside the pressurized lines, will have a Weak performance; isn't it? The Leaky Proportioning Valves with Vertical Grooves will make the Brake System Weak, no matter how many times you Bleed the System, they'll let go fluid while suck air; So, I changed the original Proportioning Valves that had Vertical Grooves, with the ones with Newer design without the vertical grooves and new metal alloy instead of brass; the ones you saw in the Photos. So, the faulty Proportioning Valves was the First Cause for Weak Brake Power.

Wow! ... that images Leaked to the Web very fast. Also I'm not clear about the Twin Scroll Turbo thing... Edit: Found an Explanation, ~► Here. Kind Regards.

So, you purchased a New EA82... the Whole Engine? ... or Long Block only? Does you old engine was Carbureted or EFi? ... 1987 is a Year where Subaru Sold (in USA) some EA82 with Carburetor along many EFi, so I believe that it is important to know if your Subie was originally with Carb or EFi, in order to better help you. 2WD EA82 with Carburetor came with the Nippon Denso Disty, while 4WD EA82 with Carburetor came with the Hitachi Disty; as far as I Know, the 2WD distys has faster advance curve than the 4WD ones. Kind Regards.

But after some Brake Jobs, I Disassembled all the parts involved and double checked each part, then carefully inspected everything... also I went three times to Talk with the Local Kia Dealer's Master Mechanic, to gather info related to that issue and how they and / or Kia Motors fixed that. So, after many research, I Found the Culprit and the Solution.

There is a Fact: The Second Gen (1998~2001) Kia Sephia (Like my Wife's Model) has Weak Brakes and Suffers from Premature front Brake Wear. I Noticed the Weak Brakes since the car Came. I investigated further on the Subject on internet and I Found that the Problem was so generalized that it ended in the Court, with Lawsuits against Kia, in some cities of USA. I'm Lawyer, so I spent Hours and Hours Reading Documentation online, Such Like the Following: (Each one is a clickable a Link to a Website) ► "Judge Certifies Class Action Suit for Kia Sephia Owners" ► "KIA SEPHIA BRAKE PROBLEMS AND CLASS ACTION" ► "New Jersey's Court Desicions in the Subject" Could you Believe that there are some Websites entirely dedicated to that issue? ► "Facebook Page for the Sephia's Defective Brakes" ► http://kiasephiadefectivebrakes.com/ Well, some of the Lawsuits says: (Source: http://www.lemonlaw.com/kia.html) So, the Problem is a Fact that I Needed to Solve ASAP, but after Weeks Reading many Documents, No one found the Answer of "Why" that Happens and "How" to fix that, they only talk about the weakness of the Brakes and the Front rotors Warp plus premature wear.

Great action Photos! ... Thank you for Sharing!

Well, I've used Led panels (in different sizes) since years ago, but for Dome Light I use the Smaller one (only six Leds) in order to avoid too much brightness if someone needs to turn the Light "On" while Driving. But it doesn't outshine the Dash at all. Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! I Hope No one got Hurt... I Really Respect that Custom Built Subaru, is Wonderful; so I Hope you'll Straighten it, and maybe is time for a New Paint Job? Kind Regards.

But when I transformed my Subie onto the "BumbleBeast" I made a pair of Custom Mesh Grilles using two "Newer Style" Grilles obtained at local Junk Yards. Here is a Photo of Both Grilles I made together, the version 1 is above and is the one you have seen in all the previous photos of this thread: the "Version 2.0" is Below, now you can see the Differences. The Newer one I made, does match the metallic Hood Scoop Design, I made: the "interFooler"

On the Early EA82 (third gen Leone) Subarus (made from october 1984 to October 1986) like mine, the mounts for the grille comes at the Headlamps' metallic structure, so the Grille directly attaches to said structure on the Headlamps using one screw at each side; and also a center screw that goes to the Frame's vertical Support. But the Newer style Headlamps (found on the 1987+ Models), had redesigned their metallic structure, so those Newer Subarus has two metal plates behind the radiator's supporting frame, above, facing to the front, intended for holding their newer style grilles with plastic screws; those newer style grilles has nothing that goes to the Headlamps' metallic structure anymore. When I changed the Original "GL" Headlamps on my "BumbleBeast" circa 1996 with newer "Loyale" Headlamps, (the older design got rusty easier), I Tried to reinstall the Older style Grille and it was completely impossible, because the older style grille hits the new metallic structure for the new Headlamps. So I had to retrofit the newer style Grille mounts on the above mentioned frame, and install a Newer Style grille there... I stored the older Grille on a wooden shelf, at my parents' Home, in my hometown since then. Here is the Original "BumbleBeast" Grille: Closer View:

The Lifted "BumbleBeast" is used 60% on city and Highways during Week Days, as it is my Daily Driver; and 40% offroading on Weekends; I usually Travel with my Family to Mountain adventure Trips; sometimes we go with the guys of the Local 4X4 teams. So, I Found that for my mixed kind of driving, the taller Tires I could use are 25", so I installed a 205/60 R15" tires' set on my "BumbleBeast" That makes it to be enough tall for the light-to-medium duty Mountain Adventures that we do on weekends, while keeps my average Gas Mileage Low, and the car is Driveable with Traffic at Highway speeds and also on our citie's many steep hill climbs... Sometimes I need to Downshift, even to second gear while climbing Steep Hills with 5 People + Luggage inside in highway, and even to first gear on slow speed steep hill climbings during offroad, but The Weberized EA82 does move Fine, usually even at 4K RPM's or above and it feels Fast. Beside those Hill climbs, I don't need to use Higher RPM's nor lower gears for normal driving. Kind Regards.

This Thread continues Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/ Because since I took parts from my Wrecked 2.7 wagon to Transform this, My former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: "The BumbleBeast" Please feel free to review and Post in That Thread. Kind Regards. ► Edited to Update the Links. Thread Closed.

Yes, I Agree. Good Idea. The Geo Tracker / Suzuki Sidekick is Frequently used for off-road here, with great results.

You'll see many "Kei Cars" in my Country (Honduras) Such like that Daihatsu, which was sold here as Daihatsu "Mira", also came in Pick up Shape: Daihatsu also sold here the more Luxury Daihatsu "Cuore", and the Bigger Daihatsu "Sirion" / Subaru Justy (there are much more kei cars from other many Brands) but no one came 4WD in that size... except certain Subarus, like the Subaru Rex / Sherpa or the Micro buses / pickups Subaru Sambar / Domingo. So, if you want to go offroad with that small bodied car, you must Lift it, in order to let bigger tires get in. Also you will use more the First and Second Gear. I've seen Lifted for Off-Road other three Cyl. cars, such like the Subaru Justy... ...or the Suzuki Might Boy: Good Luck with the Project! Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! ... I've never seen a "Recent" car in such rusted out conditions... well, I've never seen such amount of Rust on Any car Before... Good Idea to buy the Whole car, so you can take out the Fuel Pump, Wiring harness, etc... along the engine & Trans, but could I ask you How you gonna send the Rusted out Body to the Crusher... in a Tow Truck? ... or you plan to weld something to lift the rear tires enough to tow it with another vehicle? Kind Regards.

I Like that 4WD Truck! ... is Huge!

I Kindly suggest you to remove the Main Jets first, usually those has a Number emblazoned in the circumference, let us Know the numbers of Both. Well, sometimes Dieseling gets worse if there are Much carbon deposits which gets too hot to keep the engine runnin' without a spark, so usually a seafoam cleansing helps to reduce Dieseling in such situations, by cleaning some of those deposits. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Answer, sometimes I'm Lost on Translation... Sorry for Hijack the Thread. Kind Regards.

Well, in my own experience and since I drive 60% on City (During Week Days) and 40% off-road (on Weekends) I choosed 25" Tires on my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" and the Subie runs Great with the Weberized EA82 engine. I Noticed that the Steep uphills where I Cruised up in Third Gear (with 5 People + Luggage) with the Stock 13" Tires, now I Need to Downshift to second gear with the 15" tires, but the car holds up great with traffic, doin' 4K RPM's in Second gear uphill. Beside those Uphills, the car does drive nice almost everywhere, but as GD said: "Mountain passes will be scary" that is True, So I don't try to pass anyone going uphill. Something interesting is that on Highways my Mileage has increased a Little, specially if I don't try to pass anyone So, in my Own Humble Opinion, 25" is the Best Choice for Mixed Driving, 27" is for more off-road use. Kind Regards.

Thank you for Share that interesting information.

That means that your engine is "Dieseling" ... isn't it? Well... I have many info about the Weber Swap on EA82, different than the EA71 but many of that info should apply, also I have info about how to deal with dieseling; everything is in my Public Profile's page, just do a click on my Avatar and scroll down the List of Writeups and downloadable files' links to reach that info. But Basically talking, a can of Seafoam can Help on that issue... Kind Regards.

Welcome! We love Photos here ... ... so maybe you can post some of your Soobs. Kind Regards.

I Really preffer the way your S-10 paint Looks, than the way the Jeep's paint Looks; But both vehicles are nicely done. Yes, here you will see many Chevrolet S-10 but very few Isuzu "Hombre" (which means "Man" in Spanish), seems like the Isuzu versions came from USA, because only the Chevrolet Dealer sold 'em here. Also, you'll see many of its American Counterpart, the Ford Ranger, but if you sum all the S-10's and Rangers, you'll not reach the Half of Toyota Hi-Lux Diesel sold here... or Isuzu D-Max, Nissan Navara, etc... Diesels are best sellers in our Market because people here prefers diesel for pick up trucks, also the Double Cab configuration has been the car model best sold here for many decades. So Chevrolet Sold here the Double Cab Turbo Diesel S-10... ...to Compete with the Diesel Double Cab Pick up Trucks from other Brands, also Ford Sold the Brasilian-made Turbo Diesel "Power Stroke" Double Cab Ranger... ...which is Not the same Gasoline Ranger Sports Track... ...but Both Diesels where a Huge Fail in our Market, specially the Ford's one, so You'll see them still running but with Nissan Diesel engines. Despite the Bad impression those diesels has made on Latin America, The Gasoline 2.2L Chevrolet S-10 is known here as a very Good Car, but never came in automatic for our market. The Gasoline Ranger is known as a very good car here too. Kind Regards.