Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Hi Jerry, I Really Like very much your Awesome HatchBrat! Kind Regards.

There is a Thread going about Additives, ~► Here, however, I will summarize a little my own experience with such chemical additives, on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" and other cars that I've serviced. Regarding Fuels: I've tried Octane Boosters in different cars, both EFi and Carb, with Different Results; usually the results depends more on the Combustion Chamber's design; some engines does run well with lower octane fuels, and you won't notice a change in Mpg's with Octane Boosters, but some (Little) Power gain or Faster acceleration in Some engines. Lower octane Gasolines actually explodes more Brutally on the Combustion Chambers, than Higher Octane Gasolines; so since I advanced the timing on my EA82 further than stock, I use High Octane Gasolines on it, to avoid pinging; and it doesn't need any Octane Booster additive at all. Regarding "Stop Leak" Formulas, I really dislike them, avoiding especially the sandy ones for radiators and blocks as they do more damage than benefits; however, I've tried successfully, three "Stop Leak" formulas: ► The Q.M.i. stop leak additive for Manual Transmissions, a couple of bottles of such a thing, rejuvenates the leaky Seals as Magic, and the results are Long Lasting. ► The Liqui Moly / Lubro Moly brands "Motor Oil Saver" additive, really Rejuvenates leaky seals in High Mileage Engines, I never used it on my Subaru, but in my Wife's Car and another two cars, and I almost didn't believe the difference it made; such additive is Helpful if you don't have the time and / or the money for a complete engine Reseal; it elongates the inevitable, but helps you to avoid from running out of oil on the engine, at a low cost, by reducing dramatically the amount of oil leaked, to near zero. ► My Subaru "BumbleBeast" had a Power Steering Rack Leak in year 1999, it had both steering rack boots torn, so the Leak got even Worse due to contamination of the Seals with road debris. We used Automatic Transmission Fluid on the Power Steering system, since the car was New, as the owner's manual said. I disconnected the Rubber Hose from the Power Steering Pump, also I detached the Metallic pipe joint, and Connected the Rubber hose to the Metallic pipe on the Power Steering pump, in order to Loop the Fluid, preventing Damages to the Pump by avoiding it from going Dry; looping the Power Steering Pump, does Not damage it, as there is No Pressure on the Looped lines, because there is no Resistance to the fluid's flow. I drove the Subie with the power steering pump looped like that, meanwhile I could fix the Leaky Steering Rack; the parking procedure became as hard as to Steer was, under said circumstances; then I had the chance to remove the Steering Rack, and obtain from the Local Subaru Dealer, a seal kit for it... but the Seal Kit they sold to me, was too Big for the Rack I had, and I ended with mismatched parts. I learnt on the Hard way, during that year 1999, that Subaru made three different bore sized, hydraulic steering Racks for the EA82; being the racks that uses seals with a Blue Stripe, the ones with smaller diameter; the seal kit whose Seals have an Orangish Red stripe, are for the Racks with thicker diameter, and there also are a kit with seals that has Green stripes, for an intermediate bore sized, hydraulic steering Rack. That was what the Subaru Dealer's salesman showed me at their countertop, and they didn't accepted the seal kit back, as it was opened and oily... So I ended buying an Used Steering Rack, from a local Junk Yard. I don't know which size of bore / colour of stripe it has on its Seals, as I never opened that used steering Rack; however, it came with a slight leak already, leaking some ATF on the driveway. So, I removed -almost- all the ATF from the System, and poured there, half amount of valvoline's "MaxLife" Power Steering Fluid with seal conditioners & Stop Leak, for high mileage vehicles, instead; and half amount from a small, Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak additive, and a brand new pair of steering boots from a toyota tercel; and "Voilá"! ... ... the Steering hasn't leaked a teaspoon of PSF since more than a decade ago; but to Steer became a li'l bit Harder with PSF, than how it was with ATF. I've used SeaFoam's products successfully; the Seafoam's "Trans Tune" on the Automatic Transmission of my Wife's car, the "KiaStein" worked Great; also I've used Seafoam Spray to clean the excess amount of Carbon Deposits on the upper engine, you can see videos on my Youtube's channel; Also I've used Marvel Mistery Oil on the engine oil & Gas. That's it. Kind Regards.

Well, I've tried Octane Boosters in different cars, both EFi and Carb, with Different Results; usually depends more on the Combustion Chamber's design, some engines does run well with lower octane fuels, and you won't notice a change in Mpg's with Octane Boosters, but some (li'l) power gain or faster acceleration in Some engines. Well, about Head Gaskets I really preffer to change a Blown Head Gasket ASAP, I don't like "Stop Leak" Formulas in Engines nor in Radiators ... but I've tried other "Stop Leak" formulas in other parts than the engine / Rad, with great results. My Subaru "BumbleBeast" had a Power Steering Rack Leak in late 1990's Decade, it got both steering rack boots torn, so the Leak got even Worse. We used the car with Automatic Transmission Fluid on the Power Steering since the car was New, as the owner's manual said. But when it leaked, I removed -almost- all the ATF from the System, and poured there Power Steering Fluid with seal conditioners, and a brand new pair of steering boots from a 'yota tercel; and "Voilá"! the Steering hasn't leaked a single dop of PSF since more than a decade ago, but the Steering became a li'l Harder. Yes, I Agree; I have used SeaFoam's "Trans Tune" on my Wife's "KiaStein" with Great Results; also Marvel Mistery Oil on my Subie's engine oil & Gas. I Agree, and That is Good Idea, I'll Report here any change in Fuel Consumption and/or engine Behaviour. Kind Regards.

'85 Hatch should be the EA81, isn't it? The Float isn't sticky, right? ... Because sometimes it stays up, don't letting fuel to get inside.

That HatchBrat is Nice! ... I Like it. Could I Ask if it is the one that Features a Carb + Disty EJ engine?

...unless you send the Block to a Machine shop to change the Cylinders (Walls) on the 6 with the WRX ones, but that should be very expensive, isn't it?

So, you "could" swap rear drum brakes from an old Front Wheel Drive Datsun that already has Rear e-Brake (Datsun shared a Lot with Subaru, in the 1970's and 1980's Decades), Parts from the Datsun 310, Might fit, but you shall investigate further and find out. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

If so, I did a Rear e-Brake retrofit onto my Subaru "BumbleBeast" without using nissan parts, nor Subaru EJ parts. Look Here: ~► http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134321 I Bet it could be easier to Swap the Rear Disc Brakes from a EA82 onto the Brat, you could drill their hubs for six lugs; the rest I explained in the Writeup. Kind Regards.

Your Subaru "Lucy" Looks Very Beautiful! Gotta Love Lifted Legacies...

Does the car has a Coolant Lose? Because it could be the intake manifold's gaskets failure. Somehow, this Dashboard... ...Looks like the one on my 1969 Mercury Comet Coupe, and you Lost the Red warning lights' stripes (one left and one right, under the instrument cluster on the Stock Dashboard) So, there's no CEL at all. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind words, which I Really appreciate. The Air Conditioner's control buttons on the Dashboard and the 4WD button on certain models, are activated by a Vacuum system, provided by the intake manifold to a Vacuum accumulator bottle (or Canister). There are few versions sold of the EA82, with fully Digital, electronic "Automatic" A/C control system (could be seen ~► Here), but that is Another story... So, the Vacuum line goes from the intake manifold, to a detour coupler first, it sends Vacuum to the Bottle, but also to a solenoid that sends Vacuum to the Accelerator Actuator on the Carbureted models; and said Detour, has a "one way" Check Valve, built it. So, if you remove the Vacuum detour coupler and the Accelerator actuator, but you want to Keep Vacuum sent to the Vacuum accumulator Bottle, in order to keep Working A/C control Buttons and / or 4WD button; you must place another "one way" Check Valve, in the vacuum line that goes inbetween the intake manifold and the Vacuum Acumulator Bottle. I removed the Accelerator Actuator and the detour coupler, so I obtained a "one way" Check Valve in 3/16" size, which can be seen in the following photo: I had to obtain custom made fittings due to the lack of availability in our local market, of the proper ones. Once installed, it prevents the system from losing Vacuum during Hard accelerations, and thus means to lose the proper function for a while. I covered it with Black, electrical isolated Tape, and only a good observer could notice the abnormally on that Vacuum hose. Kind Regards. Edited to add the web link to the Photo of the Digital A/C control system

I had identical situation in a non-Subaru car; my Wife's "KiaStein" was acting like that, then after searchin' I found a Loose Plug in the wires that connect to one of the two the Ignition Coils... Somehow when the engine got hot, as metals expand, the plug becomes more loose. ...good advice, have you Checked those? Could you stop and pull to one side of the road (to a safe place) when the Engine starts acting, and then open the Hood to check those Wires? ... also you can move the Hoses to see if that corrects the failure. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Not exactly but Very Close... in fact, I switched over a decade ago from ATF to PSF (with Seal conditioners additive) on my age old EA82 due to a minor leakage and the leakage dissapeared and has gone for all these years; but the Steering becomes a Li'l Harder with PSF than with ATF. I was about to suggest a Belt slip, usually those doesn't make Noise on the Power Steering pulley only. Why don't you try that? ... if the Belt is old, it could be good idea. Kind Regards.

Why don't you take one Piston from the 6 and another one from the WRX and place 'em together for Visual comparison; that could be a start point: could you post some Pictures of both together, and their measurements? Sometimes other people see what we couldn't see... Kind Regards.

I Really wish I could buy it from you, but I don't have enough money plus I am Living So Far Away... I Hope it ends in the Right Hands... but Maybe you could Wait 'till you find the Funds and the new inspiration could be a New engine for it, somehow... Good Luck! Kind Regards.

If the part number is the same, it should be the same Shock absorber I used... But $ 107.ºº is Very expensive (Unless the price is for the Pair); I believe you can search for equivalent parts from other brands such like Monroe, Gabriel, etc... Or you can search for the same part number on e-Bay, Amazon, etc... Good Luck! Kind Regards.

There are two Relays, one for each Headlamp and also one of those controls the Dashboard's Lights while the other one also controls the blue Low/High Light indicator. The Full explanation plus a Guide about How to Swap Bosch Standard Relays in place of the old roundies, is ~► Here. Kind Regards.

There is a Thread Specially for Discuss my Suspension Mods, ~► Here. Feel free to Share info, experiences, and ask Questions there. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Feedback. I haven't tried Moly Oil Additive in my Subaru... Yet, but I tried the Bottle that is shown in the Picture, in my Wife's "KiaStein" and Basically talking, I have not noticed any Difference in the Engine's sound or behaviour. It has the T8D in-line 4 Cyl DOHC 1.8L non-interference engine with self adjusting 16 valves, so maybe that design is so tight that the only difference I noticed is that the Moly Additive did Blackened the fresh Oil... and it really makes a strong lubricating film that stays firm... even in the Dipstick; but the viscosity isn't affected. I'll report here my Subie's EA82 "BumbleBeast" Weberized engine Behaviour if I pour one of those Moly additives in my Next Oil Change. For now my only concern is related to a Buildup that the Moly additive could do, despite that the German Bottled additive says it will not clog the Oil Passages or Filter, nor do buildup. Kind Regards.

There is another Member Resurrecting another FF1 Coupe, ~► Here. Maybe you can see Useful ideas in that thread. Kind Regards.

That is very Sad to Read... Why? ... Because the Motor problems? I bet it could be very Motivational again if you consider to don't restore it with the Original Engine, and make it happen to Work with a newer EA71 engine. There is another Member resurrecting another FF1 Coupe, but with an EA71 engine, ~► Here. Kind Regards.

I Kindly suggest you to Look Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134135 It is a Writeup about How to easy Test an ignition Module; it is done with the EA82's module but shall be the same procedure on other ignition modules. Kind Regards.

Is the Fuel Pump Running fine?

In the '79 Brat or in the EA82 subject of this Thread? Have you Checked the Fusible Links?

Also, I obtained a Brand New Air Filter for the Weber Carburetor. Here you can see the (dusty) Metallic Hood Scoop I Made.