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Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Everything posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  1. I always Disconnect the EGR on the EA Engines that I Repair... it tend to cause that issues. I'm Glad to Know that you solved that Problem. By the Way, your Subie does Look Good. Kind Regards.
  2. Check you Engine's ignition Timing... My Weberized EA82 runs better at 20º (Like the EFi EA82's) despite the under-the-hood Sticker says it should be at +/- 8º. Also, run seafoam directly to the intake. Kind Regards.
  3. This Weekend, after a Tune up (that includes brand new air & gas filters) of my Wife's "KiaStein" I went with my Family on a Weekend trip to the Aurora Mountain Park. The Car does Perform Flawlessly without Both Catalytic Converters and Without Thermostat, that is the Reason it runs Cool but doesn't throw any Codes, nor the CEL. (Check Engine Light is off) as you can see in the Followin' Picture: Here you can see Photos of the Road to that Mountain Park: Could you Read the Signs? A Local "Dippsa" Roadside Gas Station: At the Gas Station's Parking: Aurora Mountain Park is Beautiful with a Very large extension, includes a Zoo, Race tracks for Bicicles and R/C Cars, Pools, a River with Kayaks... etc... they even made a small Lagoon with harbour and small ships to rent, but also you can rent Horses, etc... I made a Short Video of that weekend's Trip, Click on the Following Link to see it: ~► . And Lots of Pictures, ~► Here. Let me Know what do you Think about it. Kind Regards
  4. Despite that the Kia Sephia's User Manual says... ...that I Shall pour 10W~30 Motor Oil, and the USA Kia sites says the Same, the Local Kia Dealer said to me that I Shall Pour 15W~40 Oil on the T8D engine, they said that it is something related to our warm climate... So, searchin' online, I Found an official Kia's .pdf file (It is ~► Here) about the Motor Oil to be Used in their Worldwide Lineup, and it says that... ...Both Numbers could be Used, depending on Climate. I Use 15W~40 Motor Oil on my Wife's KiaStein...
  5. I was working that Engine's oil Change on my Subaru BumbleBeast, and Suddenly I have an unexpected Visit: This Beautiful Butterfly with the Same Colours than my BumbleBeast, was flyin' around ... ... I was Able to take this Photo on my Garage's sidewall. Kind Regards.
  6. Thank you! ... My Loyale didn't came with a third light, but I installed one, a thin but Long Red LED's on the Upper part of the Rear Gate.
  7. Yes, Congratulations and Best Wishes for the Newlyweds!!!
  8. Click on my Avatar and Scroll Down on my Public Profile to Reach it. Good Luck! Kind Regards.
  9. I Uploaded a Video and is in HD You can reach it, ~► . Let me Know what do you think about the LED instrument Cluster. Kind Regards.
  10. Somehow I Believe that the Original Designers of this Instrument Cluster, desired that it looked with Great Contrast, white numbers over black background... but since the incandescent bulbs emit amber Light, they decided to paint the Numbers with a green tint, that the Newer clusters has. The White illumination gives to the car a Much Modern Feeling, and is not Blinding at all, but Camera Lens tend to exagerate the Glow... also I can reduce the Brightness using the Dimmer control.
  11. ...and it means: "Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual"
  12. Welcome! Look ~► Here. That writeup might be Helpful. Kind Regards.
  13. Don't forget to take your Camera, to take Pics of your Trip, to post some here Kind Regards.
  14. You're Welcome! Yes. I Kindly Suggest you to Run a Vacuum from the Intake to the Bottle directly, as I Posted above, in order to get rid of any possible vacuum leak; and Then try again with the Idle Mixture Screw. It is Not Rocket Science, usually you turn it in carefully almost all the way, then unscrew it slowly in order to let the Engine Idling Smooth... avoid the Shakes. Finally, adjust the Idle Speed and verify the Ignition Timing, Weberized EA82's Love to Run at around 20º despite if their under-the-hood Sticker says it must be at 8º. Good Luck! Kind Regards.
  15. As I Wrote: If your Subie doesn't have that part next to the Carb, in the intake... it means that the Mechanic that did the Carb swap job (or someone elso, don't know) Removed it from the intake Manifold. The Easiest solution is to Remove the "T" and let the Hose go Directly from the Intake to the Vacuum Bottle. You'll notice an RPM's Drop when A/C is On due to the Lack of the Actuator, but that usually is Not a big problem. Kind Regards.
  16. Thank you for your Kind Words. Yes, Same here... I Believe that the Moment the Sender's cable did the Short Circuit that risen the Needle too much, something got stretched within the marker's resistance and then its readings are too low. But I Agree that is Better to see the Gauge Low than to see "Negative" Readings. Kind Regards.
  17. About the Weber Carb's adaptor plates, I has interesting info, ~► Here. I Kindly suggest you to see it, could be Helpful. I spent an Hour browsing my Photobucket account (Where I Upload my Pictures - Seems like Photobucket is having software problems now) to find these age old pics I posted here long years ago, I hope those be Helpful: One vacuum Line comes from the intake to a "T" then it goes to the Vacuum accumulator bottle's inlet #1 ... ... then its #2 goes to the under-the-windshield plastic pipe, it takes the Vacuum to the interior's A/C Button Controls. The "T" Receives the Vacuum and detour it to an electric valve, it let the vacuum pass thru to the Accelerator Actuator, next to the Carb, in order to Raise the Idle RPM's when the A/C is On. These are Age Old Photos, taken when my Subaru "BumbleBeast" was White... I Hope this could be Helpful for you. Kind Regards.
  18. You're Welcome! ... and you gave me an Idea: I'll post this Ideas on the USRM, because the Threads in the Forums tends to fade away with time, but there this ideas could help more people. Kind Regards.
  19. It already exist... Look at the Followin' Link: ~► Uploaded time ago by my friend MilesFox, he has been somehow my "Teacher" with all these procedures in a series of awesome Videos, called: "The Art of Subaru Maintenance" Yes, I Drive my "BumbleBeast" as daily driver from Monday to Friday, and as a Family off-road machine for mountain adventures almost each Weekend, and its EA82 timin' Belts run coverless without issues. I Believe that for the Belts is a lot easier to somehow "Clean themselves" without the Covers, otherwise, the covers could hold mud, oil and dirt inside and let them run dirty for longer times... Kind Regards.
  20. Well... I have a Similar Writeup, here. ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130661 Kind Regards.
  21. As I wrote: ► You can see that the only part that has Green Tint painted on the instrument Cluster, is the Kilometers per Hour numbers, under the Miles per Hour numbers. ► I managed to Fix the Oil Pressure Gauge, just by sliding it slowly with my Finger, 'till it reached the Real "Top" of the readings, then it sat on the right 0 Mark, not under it as it was. The Dimmer does work Fine with LED Bulbs. Let me Know what do you think about this Mod... Kind Regards.
  22. To put Back the Four Vacuum Hoses for the A/C Control Buttons is Easy, because Subaru Marked each one with Numbers... #1, #2 and #4 ...No Number three! ... ... but the last one is unmarked, as the last Vacuum Plug, so No problem at all... ...the Problem is to Keep them in Place, because with Age, those becomes Loose and the Tiny metallic plate that goes in their back, attached to the side's screws, isn't enough to keep 'em Hooked. So, I Used four tiny Zip ties, one for each hose and cutted their excess longitude with a scissors: That shall be More than enough ... ...
  23. This is How the Instrument Cluster ended up, after the Deep Cleansing and New LED Bulbs Retrofit, just Before to put it Back in my BumbleBeast:
  24. Despite that Each Lower Red Colour Stripe has Four T-5 Bulbs, one for each rectangular area; not all of them are Needed. The Left-Side Stripe has in Use, the Rectangular portions for: "Charge" and "Oil" the other two aren't transparent from Factory in my "BumbleBeast" so, no more than two T-5 Bulbs were Needed there. I Placed a pair of Single tip LED Bulbs. (Inverted Tip ones blows the Light at 120º ... Enough for that Red Lens' area.) The Right-Side Stripe has in Use all Four Rectangles, which are: "Rear Gate Lock" , "Stop Lamp" , "Brake Fluid" ... I Placed three T-5 single tip LED Bulbs for those and left the fourth rectangle without bulb in purpose: it is the "Check Engine" Light and since I removed all the Pollution Control sensors, etc... when I Swapped a Weber Carburetor, it will be On all the Time ... :-\ ... So No Bulb there! ... ... Just the Socket as Dust Shield. REMEMBER: LED Bulbs does have Polarity (+/-) if they are placed inverted, they will not lit at all, so if your New LED Bulbs doesn't work, simple remove 'em with their Socket, turn the Socket 180º (Half Turn) and place 'em again... then they'll Lit. Both Red Stripes shares a Common Positive (+) Marked as "Ign" and the Signal is given by the Ground on each bulb. I Used a six volts transformer to Test each LED Bulb in their place, before assembly everything back together, but you also might Test everything in the car, before reassembling.
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