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Everything posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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The Other Side: Upper-Left Group of Buttons, which Belongs to the Heigh Control, Cruise Control and Rear Defroster Button; has One T-5 Bulb for its Background illumination, which goes in the Middle and this one Comes On with the Lights. But each Button has a Micro incandescent Bulb, as I Described a couple of posts Above. I Placed a Multiple LED's T-5 Bulb there in the Middle for the Background illumination, and left untouched the Tiny incandescent Bulbs on each button, so Now their Background Colour Light is White, but each button turns itself into Amber if is Pressed to the On Position: That Lit their Tiny Bulbs.
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So, the Upper-Right Group of Buttons, which Belongs to the A/C Control, has One T-5 Bulb for its Background illumination, which goes in the Middle and this one Comes On with the Lights. But also has Two more T-5 bulbs in the outer Side: those were designed for Subaru to be "Permanent" illumination: They comes On when the Key is on the Ignition, No matter if the Lights are On or Off. Many Loyale Owners doesn't know that, because that pair of Permanent Bulbs tend to be the First ones to Burnt out, since they're Lit almost all the Time. I used a Scissors and Cutted the Wires for those two, and using my Soldering Gun, I Attached their Wires to the Wires for the Main illumination Bulb, so the Three will Lit up with the Lights only, not with the Ignition. I Used a Multi Point T-5 LED for the Middle (Background) illumination Bulb, and a couple of Single Tip LEDs for the outer ones, which illuminates indirectly
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The Followin' Photo, shows you the Places where the Dashboard's Buttons has Bulbs: All of them are T-5 except the Illuminated Buttons themselves, like "Rear Gate" Button, "Mirrors" Control, "Rear Wiper" which have a Micro Bulb, incandescent... Also the Upper Buttons, such as "Height" or "Cruise" had the same Micro Bulbs, beside their Background illuminating T-5 Bulb. I Did'nt find a LED Bulb as small as those (around the Half of a T-5 Bulb), and they comes somehow "Attached" to their Base... so I left the Micro bulbs inside the Buttons, in peace... 'till I could find the proper LED replacements.
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So, since Earlier EA82's instrument Clusters doesn't have painted any tint Colour, it is easier to use Coloured LEDs to change their Colour... I Choosed 5000K White and the Cluster's Light is White. But the Unpainted early Clusters had certain part painted in Green: The Kilometers per Hour (KPH) small Numbers' under the Main Miles Per Hour (MPH) Numbers... so you'll notice the Painted tint on those in the Photos I'll post in the Following Posts... So, you're Right... there is Painted tint on Newer Clusters.
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Thank you for your Kind Answer... so Only the Side Buttons, has that green covering rubber on their Bulbs.
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I Used the Multiple LEDs on the illumination (The ones with Blue Socket) and I Used the Round tip LEDs for the Turn Signal's Arrows (side markers) all in White Colour. I Choosed the "Purest" White (5000K) Colour, because it is not Warm (Yellowish) nor Cool (Blueish) Colour, just plain White. The Instrument Cluster on my 1985 "BumbleBeast" was Dark Amber Colour, and that colour was the Incandescent Bulb's Colour itself (3500K) because the Cluster's interior Plastic that conducted the Light everywhere, is White~Transparent. I Leave the the T-5 Incandescent bulb for the Low Gasoline Sign, in order to let it be "Different" On the Newer Models, Instrument Clusters are Green... I Disassembled their Side Buttons and their T-5 Bulbs only had a Green Rubber, "Condom-Like" Covering the Bulb... I Wonder if the Instrument Cluster on those Newer Models has a Green Tint or if their bulbs has that "Condom-Like" Green Rubber Covers...
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In the Followin' Photo, I show you Where are the Bulbs Located, what are they use, and the Kind of Bulb used, for the Instrument Cluster: As I already wrote, the Different EA82 \ Loyale / GL, DL, (etc) Models uses different instrument Clusters, so the Quantity and their placement of the Bulbs should vary for the different clusters' Designs, and only the ones with the EA82T engine has the Turbo Light... ...so, despite that there are seven slots for seven T-10 Bulbs, Usually only six are used
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The Usual Bulbs for instrument Clusters / Dashboard panels are: The T-10 and the smaller T-5 Here you can see a Comparison between the Normal (incandescent Bulb) and the LED Bulb:
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Fake Plants in the Manual ... ... LOL! Then I Removed the Front Plastic Lens and Used a Carnauba plus Silicone Wax to Polish it: I Cleaned it all from the inside to the Ouside, also I found some unused "Words" inside the Center Panel:
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The rest of the Screws are visible and are easy to access with the Dash cover Removed... ...Unplug the wires at the cluster's top, remove the Screws and Carefully Pull the Speedometer Cable, you'll find a pair of Round connector plugs with wires, one at each side of the instrument cluster's back, those have a Release Lever in the middle, that sticks out from the conector's center, following the wires. You only need to push that lever stick to one side and that release the connector; pull them carefully, and your Subie's instrument cluster will be free to take out from the Car. so, I Removed the Instrument Cluster from my "BumbleBeast" as you can See: There was Much Dirt & Dust hidding behind the Dashboard: But I Cleansed it all!
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To remove the Dashboard's cover is not Rocket Science, but you must be aware of this: Both sides of the instrument cluster has Button panels, you shall remove the one on the Right (A/C control buttons) Before removing the Dashboard or you'll Break the Plastic base on the Dash; but the button panel on the Left (Rear Defroster, Height Control, Cruise Control, ~ on certain Models) could stay in the Dash, as long as their wires' plugs are removed; those along the rest of the Buttons below and the controls; will come along the dashboard without Damage... ...Remove all the screws that are marked with orange arrows and don't forget to unplug everything. Don't worry about the Lots of Plugs: They're Colour Marked and almost each one has its own shape internally or externally, so is hard to mismatch a wiring there. Caution: Be Careful with Old Plastics, it can Break Easily! In the Right Side (Where A/C Buttons Are) you remove -pulling carefully- the Lower and the Upper Buttons... ...and You'll see a Screw behind each one... ...you Must Unscrew them both... Why you Must Remove the Right Side Button Panel's screws, First? Because the Vacuum Hoses for the A/C Buttons and the Steel Cable for the Temp Selector are attached there in the Back, and trying to pull a plastic part attached to a Steel Cable is a very Bad idea. In the Left Side (Height Control, Cruise, etc.) two screws are hiding behind the part which is nearest to the Instrument Cluster... After unscrewing and unplug everything, you'll be Ready to pull out the Dashboard cover.
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Warning! The Procedures I'll Explain here are based in my Own experience with my Subaru "BumbleBeast" instrument Cluster and Dashboard, My Subie is a 1985 California -USA- Carbed EA82 Wagon with the Clear (untinted) instrument Cluster, Newer models has a green tinted clusters. So, the procedures I explain here are for the Left Hand Drive Subaru EA82 Models, with analog Cluster. Despite that different models came with different clusters' designs, the ideas I'll post here shall work on the analog clusters... ...the Ideas and Procedures showed here, are NOT intended for Digital instrument Clusters, that came on the Luxury GL-10 Models... ...on a final note: please be careful when applying these ideas on the Right Hand Drive Subaru Models, which has the reversed sides. Use this Ideas at your Own Risk!
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The Oil Pressure Gauge on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" was reading below the Low Mark, that happened once, when the Cable that comes from the Sender at the oil pump, got loose and touched bare matal around, it made the needle to go Up more than the Limit and since then, it Looked like This: So, I went to the Local Subaru Dealer to see if they had the Replacement, and they did, but they sell the whole Part from the instrument cluster, and it doesn't have the Oil Pressure Gauge. This is the Part the Local Dealer's salesman showed to me: and this is its part Number: But first they showed me the Wrong Part: For Older Models. Well, I had to figure out how to Fix that Low reading Oil Gauge ... and I Did it! ... Please Continue reading, I'll explain that in the Followin' Posts. I purchased at the Dealer, three new Bulb's with Sockets... just in case I break a Socket.
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I did the Dashboard & Instrument Cluster LED Retrofitting long time ago, but somehow I forgot to post here the Results, So I'll do this Now. Prior to Remove the Dashboard's Cover and take out the instrument Cluster, I had sometime Looking for its Parts and Diagrams. Here... ...and Here... ...and I Found this... ...Useful Diagrams... ...and Part Numbers...
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Kia Sephia Sporty
Loyale 2.7 Turbo replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
Thank you both for you Kind Words, which are very appreciated! Well... Now I Believe that it the same thing happening on my "BumbleBeast" Thread... almost nobody posts any comment there too. Kind Regards. -
Kia Sephia Sporty
Loyale 2.7 Turbo replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
I also added a Useful LED lights panel to my Wife's "KiaSten" Glovebox: -
Kia Sephia Sporty
Loyale 2.7 Turbo replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
Well... seems like nobody cares about this thread, but I will continue updating it, Hoping that this Ideas and Modifications could be Helpful for other Kia Sephia (Gen II) Owners, and many of those Ideas and Mods might apply to other cars aswell. Kind regards. -
Kia Sephia Sporty
Loyale 2.7 Turbo replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
Then, I removed the Red lens and the 1156 Bulb from the Origial Kia third brake Light, and tested the whole Led Panel there to find out if it could fit there instead the said lens and bulb: And yes, it Does fit there! It only needs the original screws between the Front and the Rear part of the Kia's third light, to hold the New LEDs Panel in place... ...it doesn't fit perfectly, but it sees perfect from the Rear car's driver view. -
Kia Sephia Sporty
Loyale 2.7 Turbo replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
Well... I am somehow a fanatic of the L.E.D. lights (Light emitting diodes) that is why I placed a Blue LED T-10 Bulb there, but it can be placed a Standard T-10 Bulb, or any other colour LED bulb. I also changed the Brake's Third light, from a single 1156 bulb, to an Ten Powerful LEDs First I obtained a new, aftermarket Third Brake light that came already with those Ten LEDs. Here you can see together Both Third brake Lights: Then, I Disassembled the Ten LEDs' Panel from it: This is how it Looks Like, from Behind: -
I change the Motor Oil on my "BumbleBeast" every 3,000 Miles or three months (Whatever happens first), but once per year, prior to remove the old oil, I drive it 'till it reaches normal operating temperatures, then, once the subie is parked at the mere spot where I will do the Oil Change, I shut off the engine and Pour a can of Engine Flush to the old oil, then restart the engine and letting it to Idle for ten Minutes; finally I shut it off again and inmediately I proceed to remove the old oil & filter, while it still is Hot... you won't believe how much dirt comes out... lots of crud and it looks like having different colours ... ... I've been using "Motul" 20W~50 Motor Oil, ideal for the Caribbean Climates... in fact, the EA82 has been working since its first oil change with that oil number without any problems, 300K miles so far and still Running Strong. After that Motor Flush treatment, is the only time per year that I'll add an oil additive to the freshly poured oil: a Can of Hydraulic Lifters' additive I did a Writeup with useful Information about Motor Oils, It has explanations for common terms for easy understanding; Also it has a downloadable .pdf file at the bottom, which has the results of different motor oils' tested against bare metal, and photos of the results; which are very interesting. The Writeup is, ~► Here. Kind Regards. ► Edited to fix the Web Link, due to the new USMB's system.
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Here I share a couple of Photos of my Subaru "BumbleBeast" at the Local "Napa" Store: Here says in Spanish: My Subie working with me, on a Construction, hauling different materials: Kind Regards.
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- Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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