Loyale 2.7 Turbo

This is how the Dealer Shows and Explains the Dual Range on the Legacy. It is in Spanish, a Screen Caption from their Website: The older Models' D/R lever Look like This:

More LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Subarus: Dual Range Legacy: Another one, with Push Button: Dual Range Forester, like the one I Drove today:

Not exactly AGAIN... let me Explain: Seems like the Only nations in the World that doesn't has the Dual Range Transmissions as an option in the Subaru Lineup, since the introduction of the EJ (Legacy & impreza) and Newer models, are USA and Canada. The Reason why Subaru suspended the sales in the USA, of the Dual Range transmissions on their lineup since the Loyale: Taxations & Legal Regulations that Classified the Dual Range Sedans & Wagons as "Light Duty Trucks". That Sticker Belongs to a Subaru Loyale Sedan. Being classified as "Light Duty Trucks" the Subarus were in a Huge Disadvantage Versus their similar Competitors, because their Taxations, Cost etc... and insurance Risk were heavier than any similar car... So Subaru was somehow "Forced" to remove the Dual-Range trans from their USA Lineup only. About the 1980's Subaru Sedans and Wagons being taxed as Light Duty Trucks, I readed somewhere that they was Taxed 25% more, due to the "Chicken Tax": Read here ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicken_tax But, Beside that, Subaru was experiencing a Market Loss in USA on the Late 1980's and Early 1990's and I Read that Subaru was about to Leave USA ... That "Crisis" Killed the Third Gen Subaru Brat, only a Prototype was Built, Named "Subaru Suiren" Subaru discontinued the Brat and the Justy earlier in USA than other Markets, we had those available 'till 1994 here, and in the very Last Year, an EA82 engine for the Brat was Optional in Certain markets. Also, nowadays Not all the USA People will like a "Dual Range" Sedan or Wagon, Specially in this era of Automated things; you know... Dual Range has always been an Option on the Latin American Domestic Market (LADM) also Australia (AUDM), China, Europe, Asia has them too... Kind Regards.

I Removed them to paint my Wagons Yellow years ago... I don't remember clearly right now but I kindly suggest you to remove 'em carefully, as far as I remember there were small fasteners and those are easy to break... I broke one of those fasteners but JB weld fixed that up. Kind regards.

Yes ... ... Since that weird incident, I Always carry spare keys for my Subaru "BumbleBeast" and my Wife's car, the "KiaStein" on my Wallet. Long years ago, around mid 1990's decade, I decided to build and weld some metallic reinforcements to the undercarriage and to the underframe of the body of our Subie; with the idea of let it better manage the ocasional impacts it might receive during offroadings; also such reinforcements should provide a better placement for the lifting Jack, distributing the car's weight on it in a better way, especially during the inclined road repairs, found during offroadings. In this photo below, you can see the angled reinforcement placed where the lifting jack goes, in the frame under the doors, see: Sadly I didn't take Photos of such reinforcements' building or install process, but I showed them to my friend and USMB member "Superu" who came to visit me here, in Honduras long years ago; He decided to build the same reinforcements to his Awesome dual-range Subaru Legacy, and here are some photos from him: It looks similar to the Reinforcements I did to my Subie, do you Remember? ... ... and his answer Maybe this ideas are Helpful for other Subaru owners as well. Kind Regards.

I'll continue Sharing Photos & Info about LADM Specs Subarus, let me know what do you think about. Kind Regards.

Today I Drove a Local Subaru Forester 2009, with the 2.5L engine, Disc brakes all around and... Yes: Dual Range! It was Sold by the Local (Honduran) Subaru Dealer, so it is LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs. It Belongs to a Friend's Father. I was able to take a few Pictures (using my Cellphone), even my friend took one picture of me, with my Finger pointing to the Dual Range Lever ... ... Here are the Pictures:

Nice Video... Any news on the Land Cruiser? By the way, the other day I was walking in the street, doing some errands and I took my Cellphone to do a Phone call, then I saw coming on the Street, a Land Cruiser similar to yours, but with Factory Snorkel; so instead of doin' my Phone call, I shoot a Picture of it with my Cellphone's Camera... The picture looks somehow, stretched due to the crappy cellphone's camera and the fast movement I did to catch that car on a picture... but here it Goes: Kind Regards.

Have you ever been stuck locked inside your own Car? ... ... I was finishing the details of my Rear Park Brake (e-Brake) Retrofit on my "BumbleBeast" and I was seated on the Rear seat when the Door suddenly got closed... As I have a baby Daughter, I always has the Security Locks placed in order to avoid that she could open the rear Doors from the inside, even without the Locks; so the rear doors won't open from the inside. ... ... All the door's Windows were full rolled up and those are Electric, and I Left the keys on my garage's Table, next to my cellphone... outside! Also, Both front seats were moved to the far front, 'cos I was reinstalling the Center Console back on its place at that very moment, while I was Completely alone at Home... Since I am a Big Guy, 6' tall and over 110 Kg driving an Old Subie Wagon, it wasn't easy to "Slide" myself Between the front seats that were pushed to the far front, and then move and recline the Driver's front seat to get out of the Car... wasn't easy but it was pretty Fun ... ... I thought that I must share that funny experience here, so: Don't left the Keys outside your car, if you're working inside: you might Need 'em on the ignition, especially if your subie has electric windows ... ... Kind Regards.

I Used my Soldering Gun to weld each wire's terminal, and covered the welding / terminal spot with more than enough electrical isolating Tape. In the Following Photo, you can see the Relay I obtained from a Spectra at a Junk Yard, covered with its protective Rubber Hood, already in its Place; also the Photo has a Description for easy understanding the Wirings for a Relay: As I wrote above, Each Terminal has been welded with my Soldering Gun and isolated. Then I Just Placed a Rocker Switch to the Dashboard, it sends the Ground Signal to the Relay, so the wire that comes with the Ground Signal to the Switch, is taken from a Screw nearby Behind the Dashboard, using a welded Ring terminal on its End and placed as a Washer on the Screw. Easy, isn't it? The Rocker switch is placed in front of the Low / High Beams stick, so I can turn 'em On only when Needed; Usually without incoming Traffic and only on Highways / offroads. And Finally, this is How the Rectangular Halogen Lamps looks Like under the Bumper: This is one of the very first Mods I done to my Wife's "Kiastein" and they has more than two years working Flawlessly. I hope this Writeup will be Helpful. Kind Regards.

In the Following Photo, you can see How the Halogen Lamp is installed, with a Couple of Strong Screws and Locking Washers to the Welded Metal Plate: The Ground wire is still on the Fender for that Photo only, it has a Ring terminal and I Placed it to one of the two Said screws to the metal Plate.

In the Following Photo you can see the White hose containing the Nº 12 Wire with the positive (+) for the other Side's Halogen Lamp... ...also you can see the Brand New dual-tone Horns I installed... again for Safety on the Road.

When you install Halogen Lamps on any car, you must be Sure that they will be Fixed Firmly in their place, because any shake or vibration could reduce the halogen bulb's lifespan. That is Why I Welded to the metallic "Chassis" of my wife's Kiastein, a pair of Metal Plates, one for each side, then I Drilled a couple of 3/8" Holes on each plate to place the Screws that will sustain in its place the Lamp. Also I Choosed to Protect the Wiring from Engine's heat, etc... by using a 5/16" white plastic hose, and Placed one end of the Male / Female Couplers at each Side. You can see that in the Following Picture: The Ground wire is placed on a fender's inner screw just for Showing in the Photo purposses, because in the end, I placed it on the same Halogen Lamp's holding Screw, right to the Metal Plate I Welded.

Since I Tend to do Many Many Travels during Night time, and our Highways aren't so good... (new Potholes tend to Grow each Rainstorm) ...I Always install Auxiliary Driving Lights: "Halogen Lamps" on all my Cars, for Safety Reasons, because not only animals could cross the road, also the Main Headlamps could fail in the Middle of Nowhere during a Nocturnal travel, So, I wanted another, fully independent Lights Circuit on board, in case the main one fails... Not only better illumination. I have much experience installing Halogens, I've installed them not only in my cars, but also in my Friends' cars, and much more... Usually, I choose to do the Halogens' install, in an inexpensive but good working Way; let me Explain: ► First, I Choose Halogen Lamps that are made of Glass & Metal, (Forget Plastics) it doesn't matter if those are Cheap Chinese Lamps. ► Then I Always Remove the Cheap Bulbs that they have, and install there Better Bulbs, usually made in Germany of well-known Brands, such as Osram, Sylvania, Bosch, etc. ► Then I reassemble the Lamp, Resealing it using Clear Silicone for weatherproofing purposes; also I smear some more clear silicone around the joints and around the hole that lets the wires to pass thru the Lamp's body. Doing that will keep the humidity away from the Lamps' inside... Ideal to make 'em Last Longer, specially if you drive on a Wet / Rainy enviroment. Then I Do the Install, using a Relay, a Rocker Switch, a pair of Twin-wire Couplers (Female-Male) and enough Nº 12 Automotive Wiring... beside Good Electrical isolating Tape and other minorities... You can use a Brand New "Bosch Standard" Relay of a good aftermarket brand, but I usually go to Hunt for a Good Relay to the Junk Yards, in order to obtain their mounting hardware and -specially- their rubber covering Hood that some relays which comes from factory, has, to avoid rust on them due to install on the engine's bay area. The relay shall be rated between 20 ~ 40 Amps to work properly. This writeup could help you to Understand better How the Relay Works and How to Wire one, ~► Here. But I'll explain that here in Short Words. The early Kia Spectra that comes with under bumper lights, usually has a Single Relay covered with a Rubber hood (for Weatherproof) for them in the engine bay, and is the Ideal Candidate for this install. If you want to Reach Long Distance with the Halogen Lamps, you must install them as Near to the Road as Possible: Underbumper Lamps reach more Distance. For Fog lightning, you Must install your Halogen Lamps Above the Bumper, so they'll point to spread the Light around certain area, depending on how far or close you adjust their beam light.

I've made many Mods to my Wife's "Kiastein" ... ... So I'll continue Updatin' this Thread with more Info, Ideas, Procedures and of course: Lots of Pictures.

Great Photos! ... ... Thank you!

AMAZING!!! ... ... Glad to see that Beautiful Monster Legacy Here. I'll Love to see a Video of it Runnin' around. Kind Regards.

As far as I Know, the Turbo's Double Row Radiator will fit onto the Non-turbo EA82 engine's bay without issues. In Fact I Run my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with a Double Row Radiator, but it is a Brass one, made in Honduras. I kindly suggest you to Look at the earlier posts of this thread for references. Remember that the XT and XT6 Radiators are Not as tall as the Loyale ones, due to their Front end Body design. Kind Regards.

As I Wrote: So, Their inner (Core) is Isolated. You're Welcome!

Wow! ... That was a Long Story Short! Welcome! ... I Like your Subie! How much tall is the Lift kit... 3"? Kind Regards.

Thank you so Much, and Yes... I hope that thing will run Nice for many years to come. Kind Regards.

Yes, move the Horn's position as I wrote above; also you Might consider to place both Horns Together, Behind the front Grille... I Placed another two-tone pair of Horns on my Wife's Car in that place: Behind the front Grille; (more info, ~► Here.) and seems to make they Blast a Louder Sound from there. Kind Regards.

Alright. When I installed the Dual-Tone Bosch Horns onto my Subaru "BumbleBeast" very Long years ago, I installed 'em without a Relay and they has been working pretty well, Flawlessly since the install, but I noticed that those Won't be as Loud as they could be, without a Relay. When I installed those Horns, I placed 'em with their metal plate Down from the Screw on the Subie's body, so they're Hiding behind the front Bumper and by that placing, they doesn't interact with anything around. Did you placed your subie's New Horns facing up from the Screw? If so, you can loosen that screw and place 'em upside Down, so they'll Hide behind the Bumper. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

I have updated my Writeup about the Rear Park Brake Retrofit with aditional information, ideas & photos... Kind Regards.

By reading your posts, I guess something is wrong there, and could be: Mismatched Positive - Negative terminals between Horns. The Switching Ground, instead a Switching Positive. Those Subaru's Headlamps comes with a Permanent Positive and the Switch controls the Ground only, so if the Horns are wired the Same by Subaru, maybe one (or Both) horns are "Sending" the Ground signal to the Relay. The Horn body (itself) is isolated from the ground on its metal plate that fixes it to the car's chassis, that is the reason for independent Ground wire and positive wire on a Horn: it is Not Grounded to its metal base. So, if the Horn's body (itself) stays away from the Chassis, it will work normally with the Wiring, but if the Horn's Body (itself) Touches the car's body, in example: Being somehow "Pushed" by the wirings behind / around the Headlamp assembly, it will Ground itself and since it is receiveng permanent positive (Done by your wirings) it will sound. So, I Kindly suggest you to start by "Moving" down a Little the "Self-Sounding" horn and see if that trick works for you. Also: Remember to properly isolate all the Wirings with enough electrical Tape. Kind Regards.