Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Yes, and the SJR Lift kits are Great, Strong built with Good Materials. I installed a 2" Lift kit on the Front of my Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can see... ~► Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117874&page=3 Kind Regards.

Well... mazda tried to Start marketing a Luxury Brand of their own, long years ago as far as I Remember it was "Amati" ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amati_Cars Subarus are marketed by their Model Name, not by their brand in Japan, so you read: "FORESTER" or "IMPREZA" instead of "SUBARU" on the same size & shaped letters in the vehicles Back. Kind Regards.

Yes, is called the "Resistor Pack" ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118763&highlight=resistor+pack

But if you want to have an Original key for the Ignition and it was the Same for the Doors, is easier to grab one of the Doors' Lock (even Easier the one on the Back) and give it to a Locksmith... He could "see" the Combination from it and make a Good New workin' Key. Kind Regards.

Long time ago, when I wanted to do the First Radiator Flush, Half of the Plastic Drain plug, fell off to my hand while trying to unscrew it... ...and its location is in 45º angle, at the bottom of the Radiator; so it was somehow a "Nightmare" to try to remove the Half that still was screwed deep inside, with the Radiator still in its place. So, I Removed the Radiator from the Car, here you can see that it has a Custom Aluminium Upper Tank... ...and you can see the angled placement for the Drain Plug; next to the Hose. I Used my Soldering Gun to Melt a Square in the Plastic of the broken plug that was screwed deep inside the Radiator... ...once the plastic had cooled, I was able to use a fat flat screwdriver inserted in the Square and unscrew the broken plastic part, like if it were a normal screw. It came off Easy and I Decided to Close the Drain Plug's opening, using a Matching Stainless Steel Screw with the same thread & Pitch: So it can be opened using a wrench, but also I Can Drain the Rad unhookin' the Hose which is Next to the Drain plug. By the Way, I used my Soldering Gun to place New Plugs & Wires for both Fans. Kind Regards.

I Had to Explain the whole situation (as a Fictional conversation for easy understanding), because I Don't want to be misunderstood about the Catalytic converters' removal. _______________________________________ Lets move on: I will post here any Update or Modification on my Wife's Kia Sephia. Any comment / Idea \ Advice or suggestion, is Welcome. Kind Regards.

Why I Had to Remove both Catalytic Converters on my Wife's Kia Sephia? Well, Both were Clogged. It was absolutely impossible for me to find a brand new Catalytic or pre-catalytic converters here in my developin' country, not even at the Kia Dealer, nor other car brand's dealer, nor almost any aftermarket Store, or exhaust specialist Shops. Why? ... as I Said: So even the Brand New cars with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs, comes here Without catalytics from factory. period. Its a Fact that the Same car, made in USA, Mexico, Korea, Japan, etc... will go with a Different setup from factory to the USDM (United States Domestic Market) Specs; than to the Latin American / Asian \ African markets, etc... usually the difference is due to Legal Requirements. So, almost all the Brand New Cars that comes here thru their Dealers, comes without Catalytics... and other things more or less. Examples of Different Market's requirements are: the Toyota Land Cruiser II, seems like it has never been available in USA, and we have plenty of them, even with Factory snorkels, like these ones: Other example: Subarus does come here (and almost to the Rest of the World) with Dual Range Transmissions as an option... ...while North America seems to be the only market who doesn't get the Dual Range trans since the 1990's decade, due to Taxation & Legal Reasons: Because of their Dual Range Trans, Subaru where taxed as "Light Duty Trucks" then... ...which makes them to have a different price range than their competitors, and different insurance rate, etc... So Different Markets got different versions of the SAME car Model. Also, here in my country is almost impossible to find a Good Used Catalytic converters... the ones that get removed from cars that comes from USA, usually are Sold to the Metal factories here, they melt them (along all the old metal) to be recicled. The reason is that the Car came Used from USA, so is USDM, (United States Domestic Market) not purchased at the Local Dealer, so is not LADM. (Latin American Domestic Market)... and those markets' Specs are different. Yes, but at an Horrid High Expensive Price in US Dollars (Not our Currency) due to the part cost, shipping & Handling plus Taxes... Beside the Internet "Virtual" stores, The only Local aftermarket parts store which can bring here those catalytics, is the Local NAPA, but their price was even Worse than the internet ones... I am facing pretty Hard times here and I have a Family to Feed, so that was Not an Option. I Never meant that... Sorry but I Didn't gave any "Advice" ... I Was just Sharing my own experience.: Well... as I said: Not all the Cars in the World, came or comes with Catalytic converters... also in some countries like Latin America and Europe, there are very much more Diesel Cars than Gasoline cars, even small sedans comes diesel here... those doesn't have catalytics and Diesel does pollute too... even worse. Something interesting is that Cow's Farts are polluting the Air worldwide, in an Even Worser way, read: ~► Here. ~► Here. Maybe the enviromental minds who invented the Catalytic converters for cars, could find the way to adapt some to the Cow's... Back part! So, I Had to Remove the Catalytic Converters because: ► Both were Clogged, you know the Consequences of Driving a car like That. ► It was Impossible to Find Brand New or Used Replacements Here. ► Internet Stores' Price for both plus Shipping, Handling & Taxes, were absolutely insane... ► They are Not Legally Required at all, Here, in my Little Country. Also, I Removed them both on my EA82 Subaru "BumbleBeast" since march, 1993. Both cars have not had any exhaust issue since the catalytic converters Removal, and the Kia has not developed any Code, nor a Check engine Light. Kind Regards.

Look Here for Pics & more info ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1078817&postcount=1204 Kind Regards.

That's a Good Idea Specially considering the age of the radiator, the fact that it was a Single Row one, and the Lack of a good Radiator shop around your area... I Saw your new video, and the water goin' from one side to the other of the radiator, doesn't mean that it flows thru All the tiny pipes inside. I Hope the new radiator will solve the problem. Kind Regards.

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546 Yes, but the Coil Spring doesn't let the Strut to travel too long during compression, and the Tall size is about the same: Kind Regards.

Good Luck! If it doesn't become any better, maybe is time for a Double Row Radiator. Kind Regards.

The Electric fan was Runnin' then? Your Radiator is a Single Row one or a Double Row one?

You're Welcome! Yes, the Coolant Temperature Switch will continue working normally and Handle this. In my Public Profile, you'll find an Index of my Main Writeups & download Links for useful files, look for the Electric Fan Conversion Writeup. Kind Regards.

... ... Warning! ... ... Removing the Catalytic Converters could be ilegal in many of the USA States, I am Not giving advice about to remove them, I only Shared my own experience.

Since it is an Animated .gif File, it shall be posted on This Thread: ~► http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=127770 Not Here. Kind Regards.

Please: Read it Carefully, because some of the Parts listed there are intended for Lifted subies / offroad use. I Kindly suggest you to try Junk Yard first. Kind Regards.

Maybe This: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546 Writeup could be Helpful for you. Kind Regards.

An EA82 Weber Swap Writeup could help you because it is almost equal to the EA81 Weber Swap, the main difference is the Adaptor plate on the intake manifold. So, maybe This: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206 Writeup could help a Little with some Ideas. Kind Regards.

Well... it is Grounded for Sure... it could be the Wire itself grounding somewhere and/or a sender unit fail. I Kindly suggest you to remove the wire on the Sender unit at the Oil Pump and Measure it again with a tester, if it is grounded, then there is the Culprit. If the Sender is not grounded, you shall Follow the wire all the way up, unwrapping it from the source, 'till you find where it touches bare metal or somehow it reaches a ground source. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

About my Above posted Video: The Song was done in a Three Stereo Tracks Recording, using the Audacity Sequencer software, (as you can see on the video) on my Computer; which is located on my Li'l Daughter's Room. The Main track is the one I Played Live on the Video, then I Added another track, which has the Deep Strings to do the Bass atmosphere, finally I added the third track, which have the High Strings. After an introduction, the Song starts at You can Download the Song's .mp3 file, Here: ~► http://www.mediafire.com/?ghfcav2q18amx82 Kind Regards.

Thank you! ... ... I believe it doesn't have the Typical L4 Rasp due to the Pre-Catalytic that I converted onto a Huge Bowed Chamber, as you can see in the Pictures above; so it acts as a Resonator just in front of the Exhaust manifold, then it has a 2" Straight Pipe to the Muffler. The Muffler itself is not the Original one, it had Rust inside and I Changed it with a Direct Replacement "Made in Mexico" Standard Muffler, like the original one. I Took this Photo while I just removed the Old Muffler... ...the new one could be Seen on the Video. Kind Regards.

I Made a very Short video just to let you Hear the Spectra's T8D Engine / Exhaust Sound, without Both Catalytics and having a resonator and a Standard Muffler on a 2" pipe: The sound is not loud at all, but the Camera's Microphone was very close to the Exhaust tip, which makes you to believe it was Loud. You'll Notice that it doesn't has the Typical L4 Engine's Rasp sound, just a Deep note. The empty pre catalytic Chamber on the Exhaust manifold, plus the Resonator on the pipe, keeps the Deep Tone even Deeper and not too loud. Kind Regards.

As far as I Know, if it makes Whirlpools and the Waterpump doesn't Leak and is Spinning freely, it shall be alright, isn't it? I Run my BumbleBeast without thermostat and it looks somehow like your Subie's Rad while accelerating, except that it doesn't make Foam. Have you already tried to Flush your Rad using Deep cleansing Chemicals and Fresh Water Flushes?

I saw your Video... you are running the Timing Belts without the Covers, like my BumbleBeast. Somehow, too much bubbles and foam on the Coolant mix doesn't let me see well if it is doing whirlpools...

The Car now has a Beautiful Deep Sound, like a Turbo Muffler's Sound but it is Deeper but not Louder... Maybe Because the Empty Round Box actuates as a Resonator, Somehow. That Rich Deep sound is with a Common Muffler, not anything Special. The Fuel Consumption has dropped a little and I have No Codes related to that! The only code that Lit the "Check Engine" Light, was due to a Low Operating Temperatures: I Run the Engine without Thermostat. Kind Regards.