Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Here you can see the Catalytic Element inside the Round Box: I Removed it using a Sledgehammer and Chisel, Here you can see chunks of it: It also has some sort of Nest, which was removed using long pliers, This is How the Empty Box Looks Like:

Here you can see how I Deleted the Second Catalytic converter, Just use a Straight Pipe instead: This is the First (or pre-) Catalytic, next to the Exhaust Manifold: A Closer View: Even Closer:

My Wife's 2000 Sephia runs with a 2003 Spectra engine, with the Original intake & Exhaust manifolds from the Sephia bolted on, as you can read about that, ~► Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105337&page=9 But both Catalytic converters were clogged and since those are not Legally required here, in my Country; I decided to get Rid of them. Please, see the Followin' Pictures to Understand How I Did that:

Here's a Picture Guide to "Read" the Used Spark Plugs:

While the "Standard" Belts are usually known as "A" Belts, Those Subaru EA82 engines run Better with Narrower Belts, usually known as "F" Belts. Lookin' at this diagram: That belts' setup for the EA82 engine, is Known as the "In board A/C Compressor" setup, which is for the Hitachi A/C Compresor, also with Power Steering. (The other Belts' Setup for the EA82 engine, also with A/C and Power Steering is Known as the "Outboard A/C Compressor" which is for the Panasonic A/C compressor.) Your Subaru has the Same Belts' Setup "In Board A/C compressor" found on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" so, let me Tell you the Belts I successfully run on it: ~► Gates' Nº 7375 for the inner (A/C) Belt: ~► Gates' Nº 7440 for the Outer (Alternator) Belt: The 7375 Belt is a Li'l bit Shorter than the recommended for that subaru application, by the Gates' Book; so it will be a little Hard to put in Place, but it lets the Short travel of the belt tensioner, to adjust better. Please note that the 7375 Belt is almost the Same known as F-37 Belt, while the 7440 is almost the Same known as the F-43 Belt. The "F" Belts are Narrower than the "A" Belts, so they completely "Sits" onto the Pulley's Buttom, unlike the "A" Belts which only works on the Pulley's Sidewalls, Making the Noise you heard. I Hope this Info could Help you. Kind Regards.

A Couple of Nice Videos of Ol' School Subies: Old School Lifted Subarus Cruising a Pond ~► Old School Subaru in a Pink Race ~► Let me Know what do you Think about those. Kind Regards.

I Like your Tall Subaru, Jeff... it invites to Long 4X4 Mountain Travels! We have many of those Gen II Subaru Leone (EA81) Touring Wagons (with Raised Roof) Here, in my Li'l Crazy country. These are my Cellphone Camera's Pictures, taken on a Shoppin' Mall's Parking lot: Kind Regards.

The Sparkplug looks Horrible... but that is the "Normal Life" of it, according to this Chart: ~► http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp It had more than a Year of Hard use. Kind Regards.

Thank you! and yes, it is a Transparent Bluish PCV Hose. Kind Regards.

Finally, this is How the Engine Looks like, with its Original (Spectra) Valve Cover: This valve cover fits better... is the Original one and the Spectra's engine has a Better Designed PCV Valve: Fully Metallic and it Screws directly on a metallic thread to the Cover. Also I Painted the Plastic Cover with Rustoleum Special Enamel for Plastics. ~► RustOleum.com Kind Regards.

So, today's afternoon, I Removed the Sephia's Valve Cover from the Spectra engine... ...here you can see the Sephia's Valve Cover, just removed; also the Gasket that has white tint is the one that I've placed some months ago, the white thing is Silicone. The other Gasket is the one that the Spectra's Cover had when I removed it during the Engine Swap. Also I Removed the Old Sparkplugs that I Installed since the Engine Swap; all of them looked like this one: I Use Denso "U-Groove" Twin Electrode Spark Plugs, I placed a fresh set of the Same ones there. Part Nº K16TR11 (3194) ~► Amazon.com: Denso (3194) K16TR11 Traditional Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive I Know the T8D engine shall use the K20TR11 Sparkplugs, but I have not found them here... Yet. And this is the Brand New Oil Filler Cap, with its part Number, as it came from the Dealer:

The Spectra engine on my Wife's Sephia has been Working flawlessly since the Swap, that Oil sweat is not a big issue... but it started to show again, even with the brand new Gasket; after all these months. Maybe the tolerances & measurements are not completely identical between the Sephia's Valve Cover and the Spectra's Valve Cover; so I Decided to Buy another Brand New Valve cover's Gasket and the Missing Oil Filler Cap for the Spectra's engine original Valve Cover, and do the Install.

This is How the Spectra engine Looked like, with the Sephia engine's Valve Cover: Also I Changed the PCV Valve on the Sephia's cover... ...which is Plastic and has a Rubber O-Ring to fit it to the Cover.

As I Said... ...but that is not a Good Idea after all. Why? ... Well, the Valve Cover of the Sephia engine worked on the Spectra Engine, but after the first moths of use, I Noticed that it "Sweated" oil from the Gasket between the Valve Cover and the Head... That is not exactly a "Leak" but the engine had somehow to accumulate some oil around that area, so after six months of use, I Changed the Gasket between the Valve Cover and the Head.

That's a Lot of Work for a Week... and Sounds Fun! Pics Please. Holy Cow! ... That's Big. You never noticed a change in the Muffler's Sound?

Nice Tall bicycle! I was about to ask the Same... How you Jump to it and handle the Stop 'n Go Traffic? I Like bicycles... I still keep my 1991 Pioneer Mountain bicycle and go around on it sometimes. Kind Regards.

The White connector is the Pressure Switch, it disables the Compressor to Run when there is Low Gas Pressure on the System, to avoid damage the Unit. The Black one is only on the Early EA82's with A/C and is intended to let the Fan Run when certain pressure is Reached... ...So, if you unplug any one of the two Spades terminals, the A/C Fan will start run all the times the Key is on the Switch on ON or ACC. If you want to avoid this fan being always running with the key, you only need to cut both Terminals on the Black plug and Join (weld) them together. Kind Regards.

As far as I Know, the Accel SuperStock ignition Coil has almost the Same Resistance (Ω) Values than the Stock Nippon Denso Ignition Coil (I guess that also the Hitachi Ignition coils has around the Same Values too), while the MSD Blaster has increased resistance values, which damages the Ignition Module on the Distribuitor. Kind Regards.

Seeing the Alignment Report on the Previous Page, and this post: Made me Think if there could be a Chance to use Camber correctors while the car has Lifting Blocks... is that Possible? Or there is another Way to Correct the Camber issues? There is a local chain of Professional Alignment & Tire Shops here, they claim that they could Fix the camber issues on my BumbleBeast... they doesn't give much feedback but their clients and some local friend mechanics said to me that they could do that... but is Expensive and somehow involves a Strut Tower correction! ... ... For now the Alignment is accurate, the only issue I notice is that the front wheels, (one Specially) tends to sit more on its inner edge. So the Front wheels looks somehow like this: | \ One worse than the Other. Please, let me Know what do you think about that and if anyone has faced such problem... and the Solution if you found one! Kind Regards.

► The Carburated 2WD (FWD) EA82's came with the Nippon Denso Distributor. ► The Carburated 4WD (AWD) EA82's came with the Hitachi Distributor. As far as I know, the 2WD Distributors has a Faster acceleration Advance Curve than their 4WD counterparts; I wrote a short writeup about How to Test an Ignition Module, it has easy guiding Pictures as Usual. You can Reach that Writeup, Here. Kind Regards.

Good Luck!

I Kindly suggest you to use a Chemical Radiator flush additive, (those Helps to disolve Gum & Barnish the old coolant might have been building up on the Rad.) Prior to pull the Radiator and see if that Helps. Like these ones: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=+radiator+flush Kind Regards.

Thank You! For Reference, it is: ~► Here. Like This? ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134714 I Like it! Kind Regards.

I Agree with GD, your engine Needs the PCV. I Have a Photo Diagram, is for the Carbed EA82's but Might Help, also an Oil Catch can as the one I Placed between the Divers side hose and the PCV to catch the blow by oil. See ~► Here. Kind Regards.

Celebrating my First 30 Years behind a Keyboard!!! Well... this is not exactly a Photo, but is a Video ... ... Here: ~► I Love Playing Piano since I can Remember, but I Started in 1982 with my First Keyboard, (a Casio PT-80) so this 2012 I reached 30 Years of Playin' Piano and I Choosed a Simple Song, the First one I Learned: "Love Story" to play on this Video. By the Way: this is my very First "full HD" Video... ...Recorded with a Sony HD Camera and the Audio is Directly Taken from my Computer, as you can see, I used "Audacity" Sequencer Software to record the Tracks, so is Full Stereo. I Also use adobe Audition sometimes. Kind Regards.