Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Nice Picture, Tom! I see you and Milesfox there, also your Beautiful SafariWagon and your ex-TrashWagon, but I don't know who is the Girl... is she here, on USMB also? Kind Regards.

Yes, and it should go to outer port on the distribuitor, as you can read on this post about the two ports on the Disty's advance: Kind Regards.

They does look very good! Why 45 Watts only? ... the average 9004 headlight came in 65/45 watts but also came up to 100/80 watts but those bulbs need Ceramic plugs to last. Kind Regards.

Thank you for sharing those Pics, I really Like those Trophys They're Better than how I Imagined they could be. I Wish I could drive my "BumbleBeast" Subaru to one of those many Subaru meetings you have in USA, but I'm so far away and in my Li'l country, people only think about Rude 4X4 Machines or Super Riced Street cars... So I'm alone here with the only Lifted Subaru Wagon around, also I'm the only one who drives a Subaru on the Mountain travels I go with the 4X4 team, as you can see in the Many Pics at my Facebook album. Again, congratulations my Friend, your Subies are So Special & Beautiful. Kind Regards.

Well... my Subaru "BumbleBeast" Brakes Never felt spongy, nor even having the Rear e-Brake retrofitted... it could be a Bad Bleeding procedure issue. Remember that those subarus has a cross pattern on the Brake Lines, so you must start to Bleed from the wheel in the rear that is more far from the Master Cylinder: it is the Rear Passenger's side Wheel, which shares circuit with the Front Driver's Wheel; the other two are on their circuit... if you Search, you'll find the Info here. My own experience teached me to do Two Complete Bleedings on Loyales: the second one usually one day after the firts one, that gets Rid of the Spongy Brake Pedal feeling. Kind Regards.

My dad use a 1/4 Coolant bottle as Overflow tank on my '69 Mercury Comet Coupe, it also never came with that feature. I had to change the one on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" because I needed the Area for the Overflow tank for the HID's Ballast and the added Circuit Center. I'll Like to see Pics of the one from the 323 onto your Subie, I'm Sure that you managed to make it Look like Stock. Kind Regards.

Congratulations my Friend! Could you post a Pic of the trophy? ... I've never seen one of a Car Show. Also Pictures of the Show will be Great to see! Kind Regards.

Recently, after almost Seven Years of Running my BumbleBeast with the Accel Superstock ignition Coil, the Ignition Module on the Distributor Failed... More Info, ~► Here; but I changed it with a good used one and the car is Running Fine again... The Module's fail was due to its Age and Use: 27 Years and more than 300,000 Miles: I can't complain at all. Kind Regards.

Thank you so much for your Kind Words, which I Really appreciate. well... I really don't do sports ... ... I Hope to see Pics Soon, as soon as you reveal the Secret weapon! Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! About Weldin' Metal and Rust Repairs, maybe this writeup could help you with some Ideas: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126914 What could come from a Mazda 323 and fit onto a Subaru Leone? Kind Regards.

Thank you! Today I Received my Brand new "Beck Arnley" Ignition Module, for the Nippon Denso Disty; this is how it Looks just Out of the Box, as it Came from RockAuto:

Same case here... My Weberized EA82 Subaru "BumbleBeast" has a High Vibration Accel Superstock 8140 coil (Made in USA) filled with Epoxy instead of Oil, the Nippon Denso Ignition Coil has almost the Same Resistance (Ω Ohms) Value. Kind Regards.

Yes, as Explained ~► Here. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind words, which are highly appreciated. My Weberized EA82 Subaru "BumbleBeast" has a High Vibration Accel Superstock 8140 ignition coil (Made in USA) filled with Epoxy instead of Oil, the Nippon Denso Distribuitor worked great with that since year 2006, when I made the Weber carburator swap. I Use my BumbleBeast 60% on Road as weekdays daily driver, and 40% offroading during weekends, usually to different mountain trips with my family; so the High Vibration Coil was my Choice then... Different coils does have different Ohms of Resistance or Ω Value, so if the aftermarket coil has different Ω value, it could kill the Ignition module, not because the increased coil's power output; the Risk is by the increased effort done by the ignition Module thru its two wires sent to the Coil, to make that Coil to work, due to its increased Ω resistance. So, the Accel Superstock 8140 High Vibration (Made in USA) Coil has the Following Values: And the Stock Nippon Denso ignition Coil has almost the same values: Since the Accel's coil Resistance Ω Values are Closer to the Stock Coil's Resistance Ω Values, there has never been a problem with that setup.

I've Uploaded a Video of my Wife's Kia Sephia Runnin' on Unpaved villages' Roads around mountains... You can see it ~► . Kind Regards.

SOLVED! The O/D Blinkin' Light and the Check Engine Light Dissapeared, also my Sephia's Speedometer Works Fine. Now the Speedometer stays Rock Solid on the Number, and Goes Up or Down with Speed. So, That's it! How could I describe "Smoother than Smooth"? Some days ago, my dad was talking with me about my recent repair jobs, and talking about the Sephia's automatic transmission, he said that there is a small amount of the Old ATF Oil plus the Seafoam "Trans-Tune" Detergent that remains on the Trans, and he said that I should remove a Quart of the New Oil and pour a Lucas a special Automatic Transmissions' Oil Additive. A day after that, my dad gave me, as a Gift; a Bottle of This: Lucas' Automatic Transmissions Fix Oil Additive. I Removed a Quart of the ATF Oil and Poured it on the Sephia's 4EAT... The Thing Runs even Smoother than ever. Kind Regards.

Well, somehow yes... but remember that the 4EAT has its own ECU that electronically controls everything on the Transmission. Both Speed Sensors are attached to the Transmission by a single M 10 Screw, found on each sensor.

The Turbine Speed Sensor (TSS) used on the Sephia's Automatic Transmission: it also sends the RPM's Signal for the Tachometer and the Computer, to control shifting behaviour. it is located below the Air Filter Box... ... I Removed it for ... ... Clean it, its wirings' plug, and ... ...do an Electronic Test of it, as Follows: the Resistance should be Between 300 and 400 ohms, The TSS on the "KiaStein" was Alright.

Here you can see, Side by Side, the Old one (Just Removed) and the New one, together.

... I Went to the Local Kia Dealer and purchased a brand new... ...Vehicle Speed Sensor for my Kia, This is the Part Number on Kia... ...Remember that I Wrote that Kia shares a Lot of Parts with other Brands? Here is the Same part Number, but found on the Hyundai Dealer... ...it was more expensive, so I Choosed the Kia one.

The Vehicle Speed Sensor... ...I have to Change it, because it was Failing... ...here is How the Trans Look without it...

Here is a Diagram... ...and Here is a Photo... Of both Sensors' Placement.

The Four Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission (4EAT) found on the Kia Sephia, has Two Speed Sensors; one is the "Vehicle Speed Sensor" and the other is the "Turbine Speed Sensor". The Vehicle Speed Sensor sends the Speed Reading to the Speedometer and feedback the Transmission with the Vehicle's Speed, in order to Aid the Transmission's Computer to do the Proper Shifts for the current vehicle's Speed. The Vehicle Speed Sensor works with Gears and transform the Spin movement to electronic readings. The Turbine Speed Sensor is Feedback for the Transmission itself and it is Gearless, it works with acoustic Signals. Here, you can easily find where are they Located on the Second Gen ('98 ~ '01) Kia Sephia. (however, this info Might apply to other vehicles that has the Same Transmission, use it at your Own Risk)

I Choosed to Remove one of the Two 5/8" Hoses that comes and goes from the 4EAT to the Radiator, the one that sends the Hot ATF Oil to be Cooled there, and let it Pour (With Engine at Idle and Trans in "P") less than a Gallon... Then I Shutted off the engine and I let the Rest of the Dirty ATF Oil to bleed out from the Transmission while it was still Hot... After almost all the ATF came out, I waited 'till the things got Cooler and then removed the 4EAT's oil pan to do the Cleansing with Kerosene. Around two pints of the Old ATF Fluid remained inside the Turbine...

Yes, you're Right. WARNING! Be Careful when you remove the Old, Dirty ATF oil with the Seafoam "Trans-Tune" detergent, because is better to do that while the ATF is still at Normal Operating Temperatures ... which means it could be Very Hot and Dangerous.