Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Great! I'll Love to see it Camaro Green with the Turbo! I Kindly suggest you to Weld it, Epoxy will not last longer. Check their fluids prior to operate it, 'cos it could have Muddy residues that could damage those parts. Thank you! Kind Regards.

Years ago (in 2005), my Subaru BumbleBeast was wasting oil and blowing a small amount of white smoke, So I removed the Engine with the Idea of doing a complete reseal, but after looking at it, I Found that the Culprit was the... ...yes, the Valve's Seals. The Original ones in my Subie's 1985 EA82 came made by Rubber only, while the Replacement ones that I Found at the Local Subaru Dealer, came improved, because they have some sort of metallic core covered by Rubber. I Just Installed them and serviced the Valves; then put new Head Gaskets and placed the engine back in the Subie again; filled with fresh oil & Coolant and my BumbleBeast doesn't waste a Single Drop of oil nor blows any smoke since then. Maybe those Valve seals are all your subie's engine Needs. Kind Regards.

Seventh (and Last) Part: To Drain the Old Brake Fluid from the System. You'll need to do a complete Bleeding to the System & Recharge it with Fresh Fluid, following the proper Cross Pattern: First bleed the Rear Wheel which is Farther from the Master Cylinder, next the Front Wheel from the other side (Following a Diagonal basis) Then the other Rear Wheel & Finish with the other front Wheel. Test the Pressure on the Complete Brake System; Remember: Those good ol' subies' brake systems tend to be Tricky, so you might need to repeat this bleeding procedure twice, in order to have it in good Working conditions. Use the Best Brake Fluid you can, DOT 3 or 4; avoid DOT 5 because it isn't Compatible backwards with the older ones, and older seals. Finally do a Test Ride to "Feel" the Brakes Behaviour, then if everything is Normal, test your Subie's New Rear e-Brake System.

Sixth Part: Detailing & Finishing. Going again to the interior, here are Some Pictures of the Center console back in its Place, and the Honda Lever conected to the Cables in its Place; everything works awesome! This is a Wooden piece I Made for the center console, to Susbsitute the old Plastic one, which was cracked, it just needs to be Painted like the rest of the Dashboard: So, my BumbleBeast's center console looked like This: You can see that the Honda Lever has the Proper Space to Work: But also it Really Feels "Natural" for the Car. Then I needed to... ...Hide the Opening behind the Honda Lever on the Subie's Center Console. So, I Cut parts of that unused Plastic leftovers, which has the same Colour & Texture than the Center console... ...and Glued them with Epoxi Glue to the Center Console's openings, as Follows: So now, the Center Console Looks like This: However, After I lift the car with a 2" SJR lift kit (More information ~► Here) the Wooden part which I made, became off center, due to the Shifter's linkage change of position with said lift; so I decided to improve things, and make a new one, but this time Not with Wood, but with chromed Aluminium, shaped as Diamond Plate, see: This is How my Lifted "BumbleBeast" interior looks like now: ► Important Note: The center console's rear, mount on a pair of Screws one on each side, to the above mentioned "U" plate, Now you can not use the center console's Bottom Screw to the Subie's Floor, because it will interfere with the Cables and their Movements; But that Screw isn't really needed. As I Said in the end of the Above Post Nº 5: I obtained a Semi-Transparent (with Green Tint) 3/16" Vinyl and used it to Cover the Cables: Then I Placed the Floor Mat above it: Finally, I Installed the Modified Center Console with Screws to the New "U" Plate: And here is the Final Look, with all the Job done: The Cables Move Freely and nobody could Notice them, Hiding underneath the Vinyl and the Floor Mat; only a trained eye could Notice the Different Park Brake Lever Handle and the Minor Modifications done to the Center Console.

Fifth Part: To Paint the Cleansed Calipers, install 'em and Route the Cables. So, after the Deep Cleansing of the Calipers, I proceeded to Paint them with Engine (Ceramic) Enamel of 500º F Temp, not only to Protect them but also to gain better Looks ... ... and finally, I installed them on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru. This is the Paint I Purchased at our Local NAPA Store: After install, I added a Couple of Coats on the Right Side: same on the Left Side: Then I Connected the Cables: Even the Front Calipers had their couple of Fresh paint Coatings: (you can see the Deleted e-Brake from them) This is How they Finally ended Looking, already installed, Right Side from Behind, you can see the Cable route: Left Side from Behind: These are the New (Custom made in Honduras) Cables and How I Routed them: Finally, I welded a metal plate, twisted to make a Cable Holder: Remember to run the cables avoiding them from touching the Exhaust piping, the cables Must run far from it to avoid melt their covers. ► Edit: As usual in my posts, Underlined words are web links .....to further information and photos regarding the underlined subject.

The thin metallic plate shaped like an "U" that is intended for holding the Center Console to the Floor in its place, does sit below the new Rear e-Brake Cables, so they pass above it without touching it, if the New Honda Lever Handle is installed in the middle of the area; even you can remove that "U" plate if you want to install another car's center console. But if you install the Lever Handle to the Right side, as the original Subaru lever Handle comes factory (Needed to let the use the Original Subaru Center Console) and as I did, the Cables still will pass above the base of the said "U" plate without touching it, but one of those cables can rub a little on one of the thin metal reinforcements of that "U" plate, the one that is on the Right side. My first Solution was, to cut a Little from that "U" plate's reinforcements, in order to gain enough clearance to let the Cables pass without rubbing the Plate... As you can see in the Photo Below: But then, I noticed that the very thin Metal of the "U" plate (looked like 1/16") felt weak. So I decided to obtain an equal lenght of thicker metal plate and bent it, to make a new and stronger "U" plate. The Metal Plate I obtained is 1/4" thick, so it does Not need any reinforcements You can see both Metal "U" Plates together, in the Followin' photo: I Painted it with Yellow Rustoleum ... ... here you can see it already fixed in its Place: (also you can see the Smeared Clear Silicone over the Clamps) Now the Cables pass far enough from the new metallic "U" plate I Made, Hard to see clear on the Picture due to the Camera's angle, but there are More than 1/4" Clearance, as you can see in the Next Photo: Even with the Center Console fixed in its Place, the Cables doesn't Touch it: They have more than enough clearance there, so No more Modifications were Needed. ► Important Note: If you do your own "U" Plate, you must bent it certain degrees to the same inclination of the original one: The arms on the "U" does have certain inclination from their Base, they're not straight up.

To do the Interior Works, you'll Need to Move the Floor Mat to Make enough Space to Work on that area, either Removing the Seats to Remove the Floor Mat, or Cutting it a Little to move it faster & Easier. I Chose to do a Small Cut on the Floor Mat. Next, you will need to Drill another Two holes in the Subie's Floor, to pass both Cables: ► Important Note: The Cables work on the Transmission Tunnel in the 2WD Models without any problem, my Friend Numbchux wrote to me about the 4WD Models: Once the Lever is Installed, pass the Cables and use its Rubber endings to cover the Holes. Then you will need to Connect the Wires from the Honda Lever's Sensor to the Subaru's Wiring, in order to have a functional "Park Brake" warning light at the instrument cluster, See the Following Diagram for easy Understanding how to do that: Also you can see how I Closed the Unused openings for the Old front e-Brake Cables. Finally, you'll Need to Place a Pair of 3/8" (10 mm) U-Bolt Clamps, one for each Cable. They're placed on the cable's Metallic endings, to Hold them in Place while the Lever is Pulled or Released. This requires another (much smaller) Four Holes on the Subie's Floor, which I Reinforced from underneath, with a Single Metal Plate with matching holes, welded to the Subie's Body. (it works as a Washer) I Placed a screw on the Unused hole on the Floor, that was for the Subaru Lever, to seal the floor, then I smeared and Covered all the openings and the Screws with Clear Silicone to Completely Seal the Floor Against Water, Dust and even Road Noise. Also I smeared and covered with Clear Silicone on the Same Places & Screws from Under The Car, to somehow Rustproof them. You can See that the Floor mat could be Placed Again, Hiding the cut. The Floor Mat Also Hides Perfectly the Cables, the Cut part of the Mat part is Held in its place by the Screw that Holds the Fixed Portion of the Seat Belts on the Floor. I Kindly suggest to cover the Cables with some thick plastic bag wrap, before placing the Floor mat, to avoid damage to the Cables if someone spill Liquids on that floor mat area, But let it Loose enough to let the Cables Move Freely. Then Place the Floor Mat over it and now you can Reinstall the Center Console back on its Place.

Fourth Part: The Interior Works. This includes to Install the Honda Lever and the Cables. ► Important Note: about the Cables: Forget about the Honda's ones and the Subie's ones. Why? ... - The Subie's ones are Designed to work to the Front, so they're Short and doesn't worth to work on trying to re-route them. - The Honda's ones are way Too Long... I made the Mistake of Grab the Honda's ones and buy them from the Local Junk Yard, just to throw them away... they're very much Longer than needed; So, I had to ask to a Local Shop to make a Pair of Custom Cables with the Proper Lenght for my Subie. But Prior of That, I Must have to Install the Honda Lever and then Take the Measurements for the Cables. Just Removed the Center Console: Testing the Honda Lever: Placing the Lever: . It Fits on the Front Hole for the Screw on the Subie's Body, but you'll Need to Drill a New Hole for the Rear Screw. I Drilled it and Reinforced the Subie's Structure from Below the Floor, so no body could see the Reinforcement. The Reinforcement consists in a metal plate with a Hole of the Same size of the Drilled one, to work as a Welded Washer. Next I Tested the Center Console and... Surprise!!!... it Fits with the Honda's Lever! Testing it with the Lever all the Way Down: and All the Way Up: The Console does Not interfere with the New Lever Movements. ► Important Note: you'll Need to do a small Cut of around an inch in the Plastic at the Lower portion of the Center Console, where the Lever sits, to let the New Lever to reach all the Way Down, as you can see in the Followin' Photo:

This is How the Honda Calipers Looked Like onto my BumbleBeast's Rear Disc Brakes: On the Right Rear Side: On the Left Rear Side: Perfect! Even the Flexible Lines that came with the Honda Calipers, fitted Perfectly my Subie's Lines. So I Started to Deeply Clean those Calipers before Definitively Mounting them.

This is the Subaru Caliper: This is the Honda Caliper: After many Tests done, I found: ► The Honda's Caliper only Needs the Subaru Bracket to Fit on the Subaru's rear Disc Brake! ► I used the Subaru Brake Pads, however the Honda pads might fit as well. ► But the Pads must use the Honda's Latches. And this are the Results: The "Mixed" Calipers: This is the Way I Purchased them from the "Yonker" Also I Purchased the Honda's e-Brake Lever: Because it Pulls from the Rear, the Subaru one Pulls from the Front. Then after I Grab those Mixed Calipers, and a Whole Lot of Other Subaru Parts, that can be seen in this... ...Pictures, I Went Home and Started to Work in my BumbleBeast to do the Swap.

THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION! ► This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models which are the third gen of the Subaru Leone, however, you can retrofit the Rear disc brakes' system, from the EA82 lineup (third gen), to the EA81 lineup (second gen), and then, what I written here also will apply on the previous generation. ► "e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup. ► There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive and / or hard to find parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable Retrofit with Amazing Results. pay attention to the Important Notes... Warning! - Use this information at your Own Risk A Brief Introduction: Those of us who own a Subaru that came with Front e-Brake and always desired to retrofit a reliable Rear e-Brake system, but was afraid about the Parts Needed, the works to be done and the Results; here I will do my Best to Guide you in this Step by Step Photo Procedure to do it Right & Easy. Different reasons might have each one to do such Retrofitting; mine is that the Front e-Brake on my Subaru BumbleBeast after all these years and thousands of miles of Rude use, became too rusty & worn that leaked brake fluid; no matter if that was just rebuilt... So I Got rid of the Front e-Brake as you can see pics, ~► Here, from Post Nº 61. First Part: Your Subaru Must have Rear Disc Brakes. My Subaru "BumbleBeast" already had the Rear Disc Brakes from a Turbo Loyale, as you can see, ~► Here; Having the Rear Disc Brakes makes this Retrofit much easier, because if your subie Still has rear Drum Brakes, you'll need to Find a good Set of Rear Disc Brakes for your Model, Prior to do this Conversion. Second Part: Background Information. I've read & Heard about Rear e-Brake conversions, using Nissan's parts, usually because both Nissan & Subaru used Brake Parts made by the same Japanese "Tokiko" Brand, but that parts aren't exactly a Direct fit and you must do certain works to make them Work; as you can see & Read, ~► Here, and ~► Here, but also I've heard that the e-Brake on Nissans with Rear Disc Brakes, is Weak because isn't very well designed... So, Forget about Nissan parts! Third part: How I Found the Donor Car & Parts Used. So, I Went to Hunt for Parts to do my Rear e-Brake Retrofit at our local Junk Yards (Called here: "Yonkers" more info and photos ~► Here) and miraculously I Found in one of those, a Subaru 1986 Turbo Sedan that still had its Rear Disc Brakes intact -beside some Rust & Dirt- also many other useful pieces & Parts. I Took out a Rear Trail arm from it, to do many Tests with its Disc Brake, in order to Find the Proper Calipers that could Fit there easy, also without any Risk to the Security on the Road. I Tested Nissan 200 and 240 Calipers there but I Don't liked the way they fit, because was somehow a Little "Forced" and the 4WD subies will have problems with the e-Brake Cable levers on the Nissan's calipers, 'cos they must be in the way of the Rear Axles... Long time ago, I Read that Certain Honda Accords with Rear Disc Brakes, has very similar calipers to the Subaru ones; ~► Here; So I Started to Search within Hondas with Rear Disc Brakes. Found the Perfect Donor in a '92 Honda Accord with Rear Disc Brakes, like this one: I Removed one of its Rear trail Arms too and I Started to figure out, how to Fit the Honda's Rear Caliper onto the Subaru's Rear Disc. This is the Subaru's Rear Trail Arm: This is the Honda's Rear Trail Arm: As Written above, Subaru uses the Japanese brand "Tokiko" for their Brake parts, while Honda Uses the also Japanese brand "Nisin" for their Brake Parts; but Despite that both Rear Calipers Looked Very Similar, they're Very Different at the Same Time; because the Honda's "Nisin" has built-in e-Brake and a Special protective Metallic Cover; while the Subaru's "Tokiko" has Nothing like That. The Honda's "Nisin" e-Brake System Looks very much Better Designed & Protected than the Nissan's "Tokiko" Design for Sure.

Easy (pictured) Guide to Test an Ignition Module... ~► Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134135 Kind Regards.

Yes, that could happen, and the Thing is Working Fine so Far, but the Junk Yard Distribuitor where I Took the Ignition Module, was placed under Sun & Rain without the Cap, so maybe its exposure to the elements could shorten its lifespan... That is the reason Why I Purchased a New Ignition Module from RockAuto. Also, maybe I Could obtain a couple more used Ignition Modules from Ivans Imports... not only for my Subie, but also I could Help another Local Subie owner with that Scarse Part. Kind Regards.

I'm Glad to Know that this car ended in the Hands of a Subaru Enthusiast and not in the Crusher. ...and Yes, we Love Pictures Here. Kind Regards.

Could I Ask if you Meant the "U" Joint?

Nice Subie! Did you seen This Writeup? ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546 Kind Regards.

Well... Yes, is Easier to Find parts for the Hitachi Distrubuitor but No, those won't fit nor Work on the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, which I Have two right now... I Successfully done one Working Distribuitor, Mixing parts from my Old one and the Broken one found at a Junk Yard, as I Explained in Post Nº 6, so I was Able to Move my BumbleBeast but I am Afraid that the Old Module from the Junk Yard could fail in Any Moment... So, Yesterday I Sold a Pair of Custom Wooden Enclosures for Speakers that I Built and Spent the Money in the New Ignition Module that I Found online at RockAuto, the one on the Link posted on Post Nº 16, my Idea is to Rebuild the Original Disty on my BumbleBeast and Keep the Mixed one as Spare. Interesting note: The RockAuto web link Now Doesn't Show the Ignition Module I Purchased, (Cheap) because it was the Last One... so the Thing is getting Scarse... Well... I'm interested in Buying one (or maybe two) of those Ignition Modules, to Keep Spares and also maybe I Could Help another Subaru Owner Locally; So, Please send me a P.M. with Price of those so we can have a Deal. Kind Regards.

Could you Believe that the Hitachi Distribuitor's Ignition Module, the one with a Round Opening, is Available here at the Local Subaru Dealer, and also at the Local NAPA? ...and isn't very expensive.

Beck Arnley is a good brand, but however it is Aftermarket... Not the Real Nippon Denso Part. The Original Nippon Denso Ignition Module on my Subie Lasted for 300,000 Miles in 27 complete Years... I Don't Believe that Beck Arnley could achieve such level of Reliability. But if I Don't have another option soon, I'll Buy the Beck Arnley Replacement. Kind Regards.

RockAuto has the Twin Piece Module available, "Beck Arnley" brand. Look Here: ~► http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carcode,1268625,parttype,7172,d,1986_SUBARU_GL-10_1.8L_1781cc_H4_TBI_4_Ignition_Control_Module.html I'll Like to Obtain an Original Part to be Sure it won't fail Soon...

I Found 'em on e-Bay, but... they show there a Single Piece Module! Look Here: ~► http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=22183+AA040 Seems like the Single Piece Module is the Module itself only, without the Pick up assy, and it Belongs to the SPFI Models. EDIT: The Single piece Module seems to have terminals to attach the pick up assy to it, according to the Pictures... So: Question: ► Could the Single Piece Module Work Fine in my Subie's Disty? ... (if I Attach the Pick up assy to it of Course). Kind Regards.

Well... I'm not really Sure, but I Don't Like Hitachi Stuff and I've read that those Hitachi Distribuitors aren't Good. So, I Preffer to obtain a Brand New Ignition Module for my Nippon Denso Disty. Does anybody know where I Can Buy that? Kind Regards.

As far as I Know, the carburated EA82 Engines on the 2WD (front wheel drive Only) models, came with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, while the carburated EA82 engines on the 4WD Models, came with the Hitachi Distribuitor. The Nippon Denso Distribuitor on the 2WD Models, has a Faster acceleration advance curve, than the Hitachi Distribuitor on the 4WD Models. Both distribuitor's Ignition Modules are very different from each other, the Hitachi distribuitor has a Single piece Module, while the Nippon Denso distribuitor has a two parts' module, it has Two Wires Between them and Two Wires Goin' out from them, out from the Distribuitor to the Ignition Coil. For the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, the Ignition Module has the Followin' part Numbers: ► The Nippon Denso Part Number is: 1313000500 ► The Subaru Part Number is: 22183 AA040 This is How it Looks: Aftermarket part Numbers for the Same Ignition Module, are: ► Transpo (Brand): NM 500 ► Mobiletron (Brand): IGT 010 ► GoodWay (Brand): GW-M500 ► Beck Arnley (brand): 180-0245 This is a Picture of my Brand New "Beck Arnley" Ignition Module, just out of its Box as it Came from RockAuto: Kind Regards.

Thank you, Justin. The ignition module on the link posted, is very different, I guess it belongs to the Hitachi distributor, because it is a Single piece Module, but to my knowledge, the Hitachi one looks like a star... The module on the Nippon Denso Distribuitor is a two pieces Part, it has Two Wires Between them and Two Wires Goin' Out from them on the Distribuitor, to the Ignition Coil. ► The Nippon Denso Part Number is: 1313000500 ► The Subaru Part Number is: 22183 AA040 Aftermarket part Number for the Same thing are: ► Transpo (Brand): NM 500 ► Mobiletron (Brand): IGT 010 ► GoodWay (Brand): GW-M500 This is How it Looks: (a Web Image, not My Part) Its two parts goes Hiding inside the Two Black Covers, seen Here: (My Subie's Distribuitor) Kind Regards.

Yes, Bad Things Happens in Three... I Hope Everything will be Fine Right Now. You can Find Easily almost ANY Part you might Want for every other ELSE Brand, Except Subaru... ... I Agree, Absolutely. Nope, that is Not the Part for the Nippon Denso Distribuitor.