Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I am Afraid to Drive my Subie with that old Ignition Module... because I do not want my car let me thrown in the middle of nowhere, Specially if I Travel with Family...

The Ignition Module is the Electronic Part that Substituted the Points inside the Distribuitor; it usually consist in two parts: One Pick up the Signal and the other sends the Pulses to the Ignition Coil. How you Test an Ignition Module? This Test was Done with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, from a Carburated EA82 Subaru Engine, from the 2WD version; but this test is pretty Standard. This is the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, without its Cap, so you can see its Interior: The Red Part is the Rotor, while the Two Black plastic covers under it, hides the Two Parts that conforms the Ignition Module, they only have two Wires Between them and other two wires that goes outside from one of them, to the Ignition Coil. To do the Test, You'll Need: - A Good 12V Battery and Jumper Wires to use its Power. - The Distribuitor with its Rotor & Ignition Module inside. - The Ignition Coil. - A Sparkplug's Wire. - A Sparkplug. The Distribuitor has two Wires that comes from the Ignition Module, one is Black with White Stripe, this is the Positive (+) while the Yellow one is the Ground (-) or Negative one. The Easy Test Procedure goes as Follows: If you Turn Manually the Distribuitor's Gear under it, Two things Might Happens: ► Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Good Ignition Module. ► No Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Dead Ignition Module. But you MUST Double Check that you have done Right the Connections. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.

That was the Third Thing to Happens that Day... But Beside all that, I Was Able to Build one Good Workin' Distribuitor from the Two, at least to move my BumbleBeast Home and Store it in the Garage while I could Find a Brand New Ignition Module.

Finally, I Went Downtown and Surprisingly, they had Three EA82 Engines, all carbureted. One of their Distribuitors was damaged already and someone tried to Swap the Ignition Module from the Suzuki Sidekick (a.k.a: Geo / Chevrolet Tracker) which has an Identical Nippon Denso Ignition Module BUT its Wires comes from the Wrong (Other) Side. I Already knew that and Avoided to buy that one. The Second Disty I Saw was Hitachi... so it was Useless for me. The Third one was the Right one, it has the Right ignition Module but Someone cutted its Wires from the Root... So I Must use my Soldering Gun to put New Wires on it. It has missing its Cap and the Rotor was Black, maybe an Aftermarket part. I Purchased the Whole Disty, Because they didn't wanted to sell me the Ignition Module only... but While I Went to Pay that to the Junk Yard's cashier, I Heard a Loud CRASH! ... ... the Junkyard's employee who was Showing me the Disty, Dropped it to the Concrete Floor and the Rotor plus the Ignition Module's Covers broke in many pieces... I Couldn't Believe That!

While I Was on the Bank, I took some money from my account to Go Home... I Went again to my Friend's Repair Shop and We Confirmed that the Ignition Module was Dead. Then I Went Home Very Tired, Hungry and Thirsty... I Ate my Lunch and took my Wife's Car to Hunt for that Ignition Module. Very Few Parts Stores has Subaru Parts, they became Scarse since the Local Subaru Dealer is Fading Away, as I Explained, ~► Here. I Went to the Local NAPA Store. My BumbleBeast has the NIPPON DENSO Distribuitor, so I Searched in their Computer for the Ignition Module for that Nippon Denso Disty, on the 1985 / 86 EA82's. And They're CRAZY! ... ... People at NAPA Asked Lps. 12,984.ºº (Lempiras, our Currency. Equals to ~ $ 650.ºº US Dollars) along to Wait for a Week for the Part because they Don't have it Locally. Their Price for a Complete (Rebuilt by them) Nippon Denso Distribuitor which includes the Rotor and the Famous ignition module, was Lps. 11,854.ºº (Lempiras, our Currency. Equals to ~ $ 592.ºº US Dollars) Again: along to Wait for a Week for the Part because they Don't have it Locally. So I Went to do a Hunt for that Part to the Local Junk Yards. (Called here: "Yonkers" ... Many Pictures, ~► Here) I Went to Six Local Yonkers without Finding any Subaru Part on Them...

That was the Second thing that Happened that Day... I Used my cellphone again to call to the ATM's emergency Number, but the Operator told me that they can not help me because the Card I Slid wasn't from their Bank, so I Must go to my Bank's office to reclaim my Money. I Went walking (Very Hungry & Thirsty) to the Nearest Bank office around: a couple Miles away... and after another Hour of Waiting, my Reclaim was in Process and they said it must take "...Six to Ten Days to Resolve..."

That was the First Thing that Happened that Day... The Tow Truck Driver was very Kind and accepted to leave my Wife & Baby Daughter in Home, Prior to send my Subie to a Repair Shop: The Insurance Company Rules, requires a repair bill. So, after taking my Subie to a Friend's Repair Shop, I Asked him to leave me in a Gas Station Nearby, because I Wanted to use the ATM to take some Cash and buy Something to Eat. I Slide my Debit Card on the ATM and asked Lps. 3,000.ºº (Lempiras is our Currency, Equals to ~ $ 150.ºº US Dollars) because I Needed Money to pay many things which includes a Taxi to go back Home and Gasoline for my Wife's car to search for the Needed Parts plus the Parts Price, etc... The ATM Sounded as Counting money Three times and it took a Whole Minute; after that, it gave me my Receipt: but NO MONEY AT ALL! ... ... and I Confirmed that it Reduced the requested amount from my account !!! :banghead:

Remember the Thread: "Holy Cow! ... Three in a Month! ... (invisibility Paint?)" (Link, ~► Here) where I Described three Weird incidents that Happened to me & my Subie in a Month? Well, we have Stablished a New Record: Three in a Day!... ...Let me Explain a Long Story Short: I Had a Severe Gout Foot attack again (More info, ~► Here) that lasted a Month, I was somehow forced to Drive my Wife's Car (Details, ~► Here) because it is Automatic; so my BumbleBeast was resting, unused for that Long inside my closed Garage. Then, the Last Weekend I Felt Much Better and we decided to go in a Travel to Angels' Valley City, which is an Age Old Turistic City, full of Artisans with great craftmanship; (Lots of Pics, ~► Here) the Idea was to have a Nice Weekend Trip and also I Wanted to purchase a Great Honduran Souvenir for a USMB Friend in USA. So, I Loaded my BumbleBeast with all the "Needed" stuff for a family Weekend travel... it Looked like This: ...then I Started the Weberized engine and took my Wife and my Baby Daughter for the Travel... everything went Fine, but after 45 Minutes, suddenly the Engine Shut off without warning, it felt like if a Timin' Belt had snapped, the tachometer went to Zero readings inmediately... ... I was Able to use the Vehicle's inertia impulse to pull out to a Side of the Road and then, I Carefully inspected everything on the Engine's Bay... Everything was Fine. I Thought it was a Fuel Pump Failure but it Wasn't. I Tried to Start the Engine without results, it Cranked but didn't came alive, Since the Tachometer stayed Dead at Zero readings even while I Tried to Start the Engine, I Suspected that the Ignition Module died. So I hasn't another Choice but to use my cellphone to Call to the Insurance Company and ask them for a Tow Truck, it came an hour after I Called:

Mine has more than Ten Years Running on Clear Power Steering Fluid without a Single Drop of leakage. As Far as I Know, Power Steering fluid is Thicker than ATF, and is easier for a Worn System to leak on a thinner Fluid; but I Believe that they rebuilt the Rack with Seals designed to work with Power Steering Fluid. A Local master Mechanic told me, Long time ago, that Power Steering Fluid with Stop Leak additive included, does somehow rejuvenates the Hard Seals to a Softer being, sealing Better. Why don't you Try to Flush the ATF and pour there Fresh Power Steering Fluid with Stop Leak additive, and see if it Helps as it did on my BumbleBeast. Kind Regards.

Well... if both Spade Terminals on the ThermoSwitch touches each other, the A/C Fan will be ON with the Key in ON or ACC as you Described. Any Progress? ... Did you changed the ThermoSwitch?

+1 ... my 5SP Manual Trans FWD BumbleBeast really does faster too, even with the Bigger Tires and the Lift. I Believe that the Auto Trans eats a lot of Power there. Kind Regards.

+1 on Fusible Links... They're inside a Black Box on the Coolant Reservoir Tank. But also this ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90403 Link might be Helpful. Kind Regards.

That is Not a Dumb Question, Usually we forget about the Basics, so its a Good Question. The Thermoswitch is a Good point too, I've already stated that: So, we'll Like to know if you Already Solved the Problem or Not. Kind Regards.

Are you Using the Accelerator's Cable Bracket? It must be Used along the Accelerator Plate from the Hitachi, on the Weber... if not, the Cable won't Reach properly to Fully Open the Throttle. Kind Regards.

I Run my Weberized BumbleBeast EA82 @ 20º without Problems, So I Kindly Suggest you to Try advancing the Time a Li'l More and let us Know if that Help. Kind Regards.

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206 The above posted link belongs to the Instal procedure and More Ideas for the EA82, the Main Difference between the EA82 and the EA81 could be the Adaptor Plate. Kind Regards.

Well... I had to do that once, more than a Decade ago; I did it 'cos My Subie had a Huge Rack Leakage in the Middle of Nowhere, in order to avoid the pump to work Dry. I Works but I did it only to get Home that day, then I Swapped the Rack. The Steering becomes Very Hard, more than a Non-Power Steering Car. Kind Regards.

Look under the Open Hood, there should be a Couple of Stickers, one with a Vacuum Hoses' Diagram and the Other says -Beside other Things- the Proper Timing. Usually, carbureted EA82's should run at 8º +/- 2º and EFi EA82's at 20º +/- 2º ... I Run my Weberized EA82 at 20 without problems. There are Numbers but the Timing on your Subie's engine must be out of Spec. Kind Regards.

Well, Yes... Placement is Different between RHD & LHD Subarus of the Same Model. I searched on my PC's collection of Photos and Look what I've Found about the A/C Filter Placement: (No one of this Photos belongs to my Subies, they are Downloaded from Internet) Left Hand Drive, like my Subies: Right Hand Drive, Like Yours: Now I Understand why you haven't located the Switch... On the Left hand Drive Subarus, the Switch is near the A/C Filter, as you can see in my Subie's Photo: Maybe you can find it on your Subie, following the Lines that Comes & Goes from the A/C Filter. Kind Regards.

Have located the Leak Point? ... is it at the Rack or at the Pump itself? If the Leakage is very tiny, you can do a Lazy "Temporary" Solution: Drain the ATF Fluid that Subaru designed to use at the Power Steering, and pour there Power Steering Fluid with Stop Leak. I did that Years ago in my BumbleBeast, and the Power Steering haven't leaked a Drop since then, nor emit any noticeable Noise; but Steering Becomes a Little Harder... so since it is Working good, I Leave it with Power Steering Fluid. If the Leak is Severe, forget about Repairing the Rack... it is a Nightmare; you can Swap there a Good one from a Junk Yard. Kind Regards.

Thank you for the Answer. I believe that Both Ball Joints are for the same Application but Different Design, Because they are Two Different Brands, The one with Castle Nut (Japan Three (555) Five Brand) is more Expensive, while the one with Security (Nylon inner) Nut (Hong Kong 3F Brand) is Cheaper. Kind Regards.

Well, if both Terminals have a Short Circuit, there is the Culprit for the A/C Fan to Stay On. Yes, but I'll Need a Wider Picture to Look at the inner Fenders, because your Subaru is Right Hand Drive and Mine is Left Hand Drive, so the Placement Might Differ. So, in order to Properly Help you to Locate those Switches, Please Upload a Picture of the Complete Engine Bay. Very Kindly Let me Tell you that you're Followin' the A/C Lines that goes to the Compressor, while I Wrote that you must search for the Pressure Switches on the... So, Look at the Lines that goes to the CONDENSER, which Looks like another radiator and is placed in Front of the Radiator that you removed for Cleansing. Look to my Previous Post, it has a Picture. Kind Regards.

Yes, as I Wrote, GM owns Daewoo and now has been Reanamed as Chevrolet. Your Brat Looks Beautiful with those Seats and shold be more Confortable, isn't it? Kind Regards.

Well... an Image Worth 1000 Words, so Here is an Old Pic I Found on my PC's Hard Disc Drive: I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! Could I Ask what is the Meaning of B&A? Kind Regards.