Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Since the Twin Fans' Setup and the Lower Temp ThermoSwitch, my BumbleBeast Works at ~Almost~ the Middle Mark on the Temperature Gauge during city drivin' and goes a li'l bit lower on open highways. Believe me: It was working Cooler with the old Permanent Mechanical Fan, but that mechanical fan caused the Temperature to drop to almost Zero during the very Long Downhills on our Roads... that doesn't happen anymore with the Electric Fans. The Lower Temp Thermoswitch I Used is only 10 Celcius degrees (10º C = 50º F) Lower, but the temperature needle usually stays just a milimeter Below the Middle mark. The Wiring is pretty Easy, as I explained it all with Pictures in the Writeup. Kind Regards.

Now my BumbleBeast has Twin Electric Fans, I Erased the Mechanical pulley-driven Fan That modification gives some Advantages Such like some Hp Gain + slightly faster engine response and less noisy engine, also makes way easier to service certain parts of the engine's Front, Such as Timing Belts ... Specially if they're Coverless like I run them. As usual, I Did a Writeup which is plenty of easy understanding explanations of the Procedures and has Clear Photos to guide you Step by Step, if you want to do the Same to your Subie, but the Procedure may also apply to other vehicles. The Writeup's Link is: ~► Here. It Includes advantages like where to Find a Slightly Lower Temp Thermoswitch, the Measurements so you will know the Fan's Size that could Fit, other car's Brands parts that works, etc... By the Way, I Run my Carburated "BumbleBeast" Subaru and my Wife's EFI "KiaStein" without Thermostat for Four reasons that might only work at the Caribbean area and similar climate zones of the World: First: Here Never Snows. Second: Climate temperature here doesn't go Too Low, nor Too High; is almost always between 14 ºC ~ 36 ºC (57 ºF ~ 96 ºF) Usually. Third: Here is not required to have Catalytic Converters, which needs higher engine Temps to work properly. Four: The Car's Engine only takes a couple of Minutes more to reach its Normal Operatin' Temps, and beside that, they work normally. Since both cars has electric fans, once it gets to Normal Operating temps, the Electric Fans takes control to don't let 'em overheat, and they Never go Lower (cooler) than 1/4 mark, except when I run A/C ... ... Also the heater is Never needed at the Caribbean, so I prefer to not use a Thermostat and thus helps to prevent from air bubbles and stuck thermostat problems, also helps to elongate the Waterpump's lifespan. Kind Regards.

Thank you all for your Kind Words, which are highly appreciated. I Build Custom Wooden Speakers' Enclosures and I do the electronics & wirings too... See this thread for further details:☺ ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138429-inventions-creations-lets-share-our-ideas/ You only need to have enough free time and patience... Kind Regards. ► Edited to update the web link due to the new USMB's system.

As I Already wrote: Long ago, I Made this one to Substitute the Cracked plastic cover for the Center Console: I shortened the Shifter in year 1997, to avoid hitting the Stereo: However, with the two inches body Lift I installed and the one inch backward movement of the drivetrain (as I explained in the previous post above) it wasn't centered anymore; so I was thinking about simply doing another wooden one with the new measurements, instead of that; but suddenly I came across, in a local hardware store, of a nice metal sheet that measured 0.63" X 2' X 4' styled as a Diamond Plate, made of aluminium with polished chrome finish, and the price was right; so I obtained that and decided to do a new cover for the Center console with that, because the shifter was already short and the wood was too thick for the application. Here you can see the older Wooden Cover I made (the marks shows how uncentered it ended after the Lift); placed next to the Newer one I made out from that Diamond Plate: This newer one is Straight but is wider at the upper part, than the lower part, to compensate the different widths found on the Center console; Also, I made the opening a little Smaller, but Centered. Here you can see how it fits like a Glove to the Center console's base: Also here's a photo of it installed: A closer view: Update: I changed the look, by installing a local made leather boot, see: Let me know what do you think about all this ... ... Kind Regards.

Things you Should Know, before attempting to Lift your Subie: You must be Aware that there are some things that changes and / or might require certain amount of Modifications to work Properly, once you get your third gen Subaru Leone (EA82) Lifted, and those are usually untold on the Forums; the majority of things that needs to be modified, are in the FRONT of the Subie, so here I'll address that Area. For a Mixed style usage, like I do on my "BumbleBeast" being my Daily Driver on week days (60%) and Weekend Offroader Warrior (40%) the best lift is the one achieved by Lifting the Body two inches, and increasing the overall diameter of the Wheels another two inches; so it gains a total of 4" lift, but usually such lift is known as the 2" Lift. Going Beyond a 2" body lift means to loose stability and the Rear tires will get abnormally closer to the Body in front of them, also the front tires will get closer to the body in the rear of them, which usually requires modifying the body structure, and I don't like that idea, unless you'll not use the Subaru as Daily Driver anymore, only as offroader. Lifting two inches the Body, requires 2" strut top blocks, but despite that many USMB members doesn't drop the engine's Crossmember, in order to gain more Ground Clearance, to Drop it is Really Needed, unless you don't care of running your Subie with an increased amount of stress angle on the Axles, Steering & suspension parts, which usually means to wear axles ~ 10X faster, and having steering issues, alignment issues, and driveability issues. I strongly suggest to Drop the Engine's Crossmember 1½" if you're using 2" strut top Blocks, so you will remove the added Stress from the Suspension and Steering parts, while keeping the axles in a much closer angle to the Factory specs; this will keep the overall Geometry closer to stock specs; so you'll loose Ground Clearance, but You'll gain to maintain the Reliability and Maneuverability that the car had, prior to the Lift. Also, you'll need to drop the Rear Differential, to keep the Rear axles in a closer to Stock angle. What is Untold, is that if you Drop the Engine's Crossmember, five things will Happen: 1) In those EA82's with cooling fans driven by the Waterpump pulley, you must remove the surrounding Frame for the Fan, which is attached to the Radiator; otherwise the Fan's blades will hit it, damaging the Fan and Waterpump. 2) You must lengthen the Steering Shaft, I solved that problem by using one that is already lengthened from Factory, it came from a 1992 Legacy and was two inches longer than the EA82 one, but having same spline count and measurements. 3) The Shifter's Linkage will also be working on a stressed angle, and since it is attached to the Body with a piece of metal that has a Vibration's dampening Rubber cube, usually that rubber cube breaks... ...and the Shifter Drops... I solved that, by Welding a Metal Cube instead: 4) The whole drivetrain goes Backwards and inch (also that stressed the Rubber cube), so, the Shifter gets one inch to the Back, and even the Muffler's tip will get one inch farther from the rear Bumper. Here you can see how it moved an inch, this plate is not Centered anymore: It is Solved by Modifying the above pictured plate, like this: and also by Bending this part that I showed above, from each side, see: But then, the Cover for the Center console, where the squared (outer) Rubber boot goes covering the shifting stick, up to the shifter knob, will feel like is not centered anymore, but still will work; however I modified such center console's cover; but since it is Not really necessary, I'll address that subject, in the Next post. 5) The jack to lift the vehicle will no longer serve anymore, barely lifting the tire from the paved roads due to the body lift, and even worse in some terrains, such like those unpaved roads where you go offroading; the original Jack can't free the tires, not even at the its maximum stretching; so you will need to carry a wooden block to sit the Jack, which is Dangerous, or Weld to the Jack a metal spacer on its base; or even better: get another, higher Jack. That last thing is what I did: I got a Jack out from a Nissan Frontier, which works perfectly in the Subie and fits in the compartment for the jack in the trunk of my Subaru, This one: After all these Modifications are done, the Lifted car really Feels Natural, and Awesome. Please check this thread for Further information, more Detailed photos and explanations, also feel free to ask Questions regarding the Lift, on that mere thread. Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-2 Kind Regards.

Beautiful... that Subaru Model looks Very Nice in Cherry Red! Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Answer. Best Regards.

Scroll Down to the Last Post of this Writeup: ~► Here. Kind Regards.

You'll have them if the Carburetor didn't came with The Accelerator Cable Bracket... then you must search for one. Good Luck!

Thank you for your Kind Words, which are much appreciated.

Great Work Bennie, Well Done! I've noticed in this Photo: That your Subie has a Non-L Series Subaru e-Brake Handle. Since I'm Searching for alternatives to do a Rear e-Brake retrofit on my BumbleBeast, could I Ask you More info about the e-Brake setup you have... is that a Rear e-Brake? Kind Regards.

When I Finished my intake Manifold's mods, I was thinking about painting it Yellow but I decided to let the Silver aluminium colour live... But a Pink Intake is something New to me... this is the Very First time I See one intake in Pink! Kind Regards.

Didn't you See this thread? ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206

Those are Pure Daihatsu Engineering, with Subaru Logos on it. There are some of those Daihatsus here, I drove one once (Belongs to a Friend, she adore that Car) they have a 1L in-line Four Cyl engines, traverse mounted. Kind Regards.

Long time Ago I Found an Age Old Black & White Photo from Japan while Browsing on internet, ... that Photo has two Subaru 360's ... ... I imagined how the Real portrait looked like ... So, I Painted it! Let me Know what do you Think about that. Kind Regards.

Another one, a Subaru RX with 13B Engine: ~► http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/pg04.htm Also here, in USMB: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68298

Subaru Coupe with Mazda Rotary 13B engine! There's a Video, ~► .

After Reading this, I Hardly Believe that you Really READED it... I Used Aluminium Welding to Fill the Water Passage, as that thread Describes that plenty of Pictures, but you can use whatever you Want, like JB Weld, made a Thread in the Tiny opening and insert a Screw then cuttin' its head to close it, etc... Kind Regards.

Seems Like I've Found the Toy of "Stanley, the Wonder Van"!!! Look: ~► Here. Kind Regards.

Another Rebadged Daihatsu, the Daihatsu Sirion as... Subaru Justy!

Thank you for the Link of the Video, Good Find! My Weberized BumbleBeast really "Feels" like it has more than 80 Hp, (in my Butt Dyno) but the 25% loss for Driveline explains the Low Dyno Numbers. I Wonder what Numbers could Give a Weberized and Well-Tuned EA82 FWD, anybody knows? Kind Regards.

I had the same Problem long Years ago and my Solution was to take out the Screw's thread and search for a Nut that has the same Measurement and Pitch, then I Found a Metallic screw (Inox) and used it... no problem. You only need to be Careful to not over tight it in order to avoid milling the Plastic thread. Kind Regards.

...also some advice in EA82 Suspension, ~► Here. I Hope those Writeups can Help. Kind Regards.

Just a Little Advice, for Longer CV Joints' Life, read ~► Here. Kind Regards.

A 1993 EA82 with Carb in USA is Rare... Could I Ask if you Swapped some parts from an Old Engine? My EA82 Carb was doing the Same Long Years Ago... and the issue was caused by the Carb itself, that's Why I Swapped a Weber there. Maybe your engine's Carb is Dirty... Was it Running well Before the Timing Belt service? Kind Regards.