Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Yes, we need Pics of that here! ____________________ What do you Think about this EA82 Baby?

Dear Twitch... ...You're Right. Counting the 360's and more Historic Gen Subarus. Kind Regards.

Will the TurboDiesel Boxer, power the BRZ? http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=es&sl=es&tl=en&u=http://www.motorpasion.com/coupes/subaru-brz-boxer-diesel-y-toyota-gt-86-d-4d-factibles-o-absurdos The above posted link is a Google Translation to english, from a Spanish Article, found here: http://www.motorpasion.com/coupes/subaru-brz-boxer-diesel-y-toyota-gt-86-d-4d-factibles-o-absurdos Kind Regards.

Could you explain why do you Think that, sir?

Look at the Above Posted Link, is a Video, the RPM's gets up to 7,500! Sorry for Hijack the Thread.

Usually I Shift at 4K, but I have Redlined my BumbleBeast during Speed changes on certain circumstances when accesing to a fast Highway is Needed or similar situations, that EA82 Weberized runs Awesome at Higher RPM's without any noticeable loss of power, and gotta Love that Boxer Rumble on Full Throttle! Redline Starts at 6,500 RPM's : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pz56wdwKDrA Kind Regards.

Mo' info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_switch

No vacuum thermo switch in the Old '72 Datsun 1600 my Dad used to Own... Neither in my '69 Mercury Comet in-line 6 Cyl, or in any old carbureted engine I've seen... Except for my EA82 Subie, it used to have it, also I've seen it... (I'm not Sure about this) ... in a 1987 Honda Accord with Hiding Headlamps that I serviced long time ago... That 12 Valve engine was carburated and as Far as I Remember it had it too... and a "Spaghetti" of vacuum Hoses. Kanurys Already did: Kind Regards.

Well... After all the Wires were Properly Welded and isolated independently each one, I proceed to Cover all the New Wiring from the New Plug's end to the Car's Wiring end and as Far as Possible, with the Best Electrical Tape I can Find. The only wire that comes out from the New Wiring is the Ground, that already has a Welded Ring eye terminal of good quality, that one goes to a Clean Screw on a Metallic area from behind the Dashboard. This is How I found the Wiring: ☼ = Speaker Position Kia's Wiring Colour --- (Polarity) --- Standard Stereo Unit's Colour ___________________________________________________________________ ☼ Rear Left Speaker: Brown / Green ------- (+) ------- Green Brown / Black -------- (‒) ------- Green \ Black ___________________________________________________________________ ☼ Rear Right Speaker: Orange / Green ------- (+) ------- Purple Orange / Black -------- (‒) ------- Purple \ Black ___________________________________________________________________ ☼ Front Left Speaker: Yellow / Green ------- (+) ------- White Yellow / Black -------- (‒) ------- White \ Black ___________________________________________________________________ ☼ Front Right Speaker: Yellow / Red --------- (+) ------- Grey Yellow / Black -------- (‒) ------- Grey \ Black ___________________________________________________________________ This is How it ended up:

This Procedure is the Exactly one I did to my BumbleBeast Subaru (and many other cars) except for one thing: My Subie has a Pentium III Processor's fan on the Dashboard (to Cool the Stereo Unit), that turns On and Off with the Stereo, as you can Read, ~► Here.

In the Followin' Picture, you can see both my Diagrams I Did after Proceed to the New Plug's install; one diagram is for the Face of the New Plug, in order to be Sure which terminal belongs to Which Wire; the Second Diagram is to Show and to be Sure how the Car's wiring is intended for. The Old Plug is the Red, hangin' next to the Dash, the New Plug is the one with Thicker Wires, next to the Plug's Diagram.

In the Followin' Photo, you can see how each Car's Wire was attached just by twisting caps, to the Old Stereo's Plug. I Just Removed (Cutted with Scissors) each twisting cap end from the Old Plug and used my Soldering Gun to Properly Weld the Car's Wire to the New Plug's Wire.

Prior to all That, I Went to one of our Local "Junk Yards" (Called here Yonkers) and obtained a Good Male / Female Plug with enough Wires for the install, that Plug Does have a Security "Lock" that Holds each part together. I Obtained it from Behind the Dashboard of a Isuzu Car, it was designed for its Dashboard instrument panel, so it has very good Wires, including Thicker ones that I Used for Power imput. Then, Removed all the Car's Speakers and let open the Wires for Each one. I Cutted and Removed the Old Stereo's attached Plug, one by one Wire, Then I Used a Voltmeter / Tester to Find out which Wire Belongs to Which Speaker and its Polarity. Using the Tester on both Sides: the Dashboard end and the Speaker End to find out. Then I Used the Black Marker and a Blanc Paper to Write the Results...

So, I Pulled all the Stereo Wires from Behind the Dashboard and Started to Work in order to Stablish which wire Belongs to Which Speaker, Positive (+) and Negative (-) My Best "underestimated" Tool is a 110V "Natural Colour" (5000K) L.E.D. Bulb with Protective polycarbonate "Ball" Covering, Shown in the Picture, and in this Closer Picture:

When I Opened the Dashboard to do the New Stereo Wiring, I Found a Wiring Nightmare!

Well... actually I've done Many works and Upgrades to the Sephia, but I stopped writing here because I thought nobody cared... So Thank you for Asking... ...Now I'll Finish to show here how the Stereo install ended. Kind Regards.

Good Job, well Done! That Method is very common here, I know people that even used the Original Subaru 4X140 plate, welded onto Bigger (14" and 15") Rims. Kind Regards.

Now I Understand your Point, thank you. My 1985 Carbed "BumbleBeast" (that came Running New, from California, USA to Honduras) Came Stock with a Twin Port Vacuum Advance, I Know that Californian Versions usually got more Smog Stuff, but All the Carbed EA82's I've seen came with that Twin port one. I Removed it from my BumbleBeast when I Did the Weber Swap, and placed there a Single port one. In the Followin' Picture you can see the Removed one (Twin Ports) Next to the Box of the New (Single port) one, you can see its part number on the Box: Taken from This ~► Thread. Kind Regards.

Nope! ... Read it Again:

Holy Cow! Even the Gas Door was cutted! I Believe it has a Very Aggresive Bodywork, to let the Good Ol' EA82 stay there... That really deserves an EJ Swap. The Link on the Hood Scoop ( http://swrt.com/ ) is Sad... Kind Regards.

That's interesting info and does make Sense... except for one thing: As far as I Understand, that Vacuum Thermo Switch will block any vacuum from Moving untill it reaches its Operating Temperature, isn't it? So, How could this: Happen with the Vacuum Thermo Switch Between the intake and the Advance at the Distribuitor???

Well... The 5MT on the FWD (2WD only) Models has very Long gears... that makes 'em to be at very Low RPM's on High Speeds, but I Don't know the Final Ratio... Sorry for Hijack the Tread but does anyone has that info? The Chart posted on the Above Link only covers the 4WD models. Kind Regards.

Well... I Have my BumbleBeast's Weber Hooked Directly to the Disty's Vacuum Advance, but I've Changed the Dual port one on the Disty, with a Single Port one, as I Wrote before. No Problems with that Setup Neither. Kind Regards.

Welcome! They Didn't went like That to the USA, but in the Past, Older Models of the Sambar (360 Van) and Newer from 1980 but Converted to Electric Vehicles (Electra Van), did. We Have many of those E10 and E12 Vans, named here just like That; here's a Picture of one of Those in a Mountain Village named "Santa Lucia" in my Li'l Country: So They came here, to Latin America... there is another USMB member with one of Those in Chile, his Board name is "Libero" and here's a Link to his Thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=131994 Kind Regards.

The "Zombie Outbreak Response Vehicle"! As Seen here, in ~► this Thread. and ~► Here.