Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Welcome! Your Subaru is a Great Car and will last many years with proper maintenance. Could you post pics, please? We Love Pics here. Kind Regards.

...and I Agree...

Well, I've noticed changes on the "Plug" only, between EA Subarus too... in example, my '85 Bumper lights had different plug (Roundie) than the 90's ones (Squarier). I Hope you will get rid of that miss easily, I Kindly suggest the use of a Seafoam can to help the Cleaning process, but you can try a Fuel additive too. Kind Regards.

Could you Post Pictures of the complete car? ... ... We Like Pictures here!

Well... if your subie doesn't need to pass smog tests, you can do the Weber Swap and believe me: You'll never go back with an Hitachi carb anymore. The Weber will also allow you to clean the engine bay from the unused stuff... ...and will add a Loud deep Boxer Rumble Note on the Higher Rpm's, also will add more Low-End Torque. My Brand New Weber came "Made in Spain" so if you live in Norway, I Guess that maybe you could find one easier and cheaper... Good Luck! Kind Regards.

I only recall, As Far as I can Remember the Difference is based upon the State's pollution laws... in example: Californian Justy's had the electronic feedback carb, instead the non-feedback; but I'm not completely sure about that information... Are the two carburetors made by the Same Brand Company?

Holy Cow! Seems like that Hitachi carb is messed up, because one of those lines belongs to the Secondary Stage actuator (A vacuum on the Carb's Back) and the other goes to the Timing vacuum Advance port on the distribuitor... Are those ports still plugged with Hoses? I Was about to suggest you to install a Return spring on that carb, but by seeing it, could I Ask you why don't you Swap it with a Weber Carb? EA82 engines perform Much Better with them, plus those are very easy to work with. I Have a Complete writeup with pics about that, just Click on my Avatar. Kind Regards.

...a Good Run and Maybe a Seafoam Cleanup too. Kind Regards.

From sitting it could have certain buildup on the Cyl and internals that might just dissapear with Continous driving, but by your Last description, it sounds to me like if the Li'l engine has some carburetor issue, such like Dirt on the air bleeds.

We'll Wait. A neighbour has one Cherry Red Justy with CVT Transmission... those are Beautiful small cars, perfect for city driving. About the Miss, How old are the Sparkplugs? Kind Regards.

About the Impreza's Lug pattern... Long time ago, I found that the Subaru imprezas that Ran on the WRC... ...the Imprezas WRX for Rally... ...came with This Lug Pattern: Sounds Good! ... Pics Please.

I Run this Omega 12" Subwoofer on my BumbleBeast, it has a Built-in Amplifier with crossover, so it only need power line and audio imput from the Stereo's Subwoofer out. The Stereo unit powers the 6.5" Speakers on the four Doors. Cheap, Easy & Powerful, with great Quality. Kind Regards.

Believe me, an Old Datsun / Nissan key Could work: They're identical to the Old subaru ones and sometimes the worn out Lock will open after some key twists. But also, if any of the doors has a window at least half inch down, you can Slide a thin but solid and long metallic stick from that side to the opposite side door's lock and press open it. I Did both solutions in different Situations, years ago... I Hope those ideas can Help you. Kind Regards.

Well... if you Rotate the 9007 Bulb's base 90º any side, Maybe you'll need to Cut all the Three Guides on the 9007 Bulb's socket to fit the 9004 Housing; instead of just cutting the Middle one. Well, I Really don't believe it is the Case, because, as I Explained above: Yes, I Don't Believe that as "Mistakenly Marked Bulbs Shipped to South America" Because this facts: My 9104's fitted Right to the 9004's Headlamp housing without modifying anything. The Stock Subaru Wiring worked Great with Them without modifying anything, they lasted for Years without any issue; while the 9007's bulbs comes internally wired differently, as explained here: http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/9004_9007.pdf Honduras, (My Li'l Country) is Far from South America, we are here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90606&page=8 If the 9104's I Got then were really 9007's, then the Bulbs wouldn't fitted the lamps as they did, nor the electrical connection would have worked, isn't it? Also I Know the Difference between the 9004 (or 9104) and 9007 (or 9107) Bulbs, as I Explained before, I Tried to Fit 9007's on my Loyale designed for 9004's, and... it takes much effort to make 'em fit and the Results were bad... That is Why I Obtained first the 9104's and then the H.I.D.'s as Explained above. Good Luck! Well, I always Try to do my Best to help, so if you insist that you want to fit the 9007 Bulbs on your Subie's 9004 Headlamps, I Kindly suggest you to review this Writeup full of explained Procedures to do that. Here: ~► http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?97759-9004-to-9007-Headlight-Conversion.-MUCH-BRIGHTER. I Hope that can Help you... Kind Regards.

I Really Suggest you to Start with the Lift, because if you Really want to Lift your Subie, a brand new set of tires will take many time to worn and your Lift plan will remain undone for more time to come. I Run my 2" Lifted BumbleBeast with 26" and its Weberized EA82 as Daily Driver without problems, it even feels more Torquey. By the Way, let me tell you that the Link you posted, sent me to a Spiders' article!

Let me Explain Why I wrote it could be Dangerous to Run your Subie's 9004 Headlamps with the 9007 Bulbs: The Reason is that the Low / High Beams will be pointing to the Wrong direction, so they tend to 'move' somehow side by side, instead of up and down; that wrong Light beam could be Dangerous since it could Blind the incoming Driver's eyes and also it could not illuminate the Road as it should be: those 9007 Bulbs on 9004 Headlamps could point their light to the Trees up above the road... Both the 9104 and the 9007 / 9107 got the Vertical (Axial) Filaments, but since the filaments on the 9104 are placed above than the filaments on the 9007, and stock car's wiring worked fine with them without changing anything; I hardly believe that the 9104 ones I owned long years ago, were a Factory mistake or a misplaced bulb on the wrong base... Let me tell you that I Substituted the Flösser 9104 Halogen Bulbs on my Subie, with H.I.D.'s that have Natural (Yelowish) Colour and Dual (High / Low) Beams, to avoid Blinding the incomin' Drivers eyes... I Did that because the Flösser brand became So Scarse and expensive in my Country. Here's the Thread: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89661&page=8 Kind Regards.

There's another Thread about the LED's on Cars, on the off-topic Forums: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129686 Now I've seen a set of aftermarket LED round lamps on a parked Range Rover, they looked aftermarket at all but Pricey... Maybe some of these: http://www.piaa.com/LEDs/LEDs.html

I Kindly suggest you to Post a Photo of your adapter here, in order to help you to identify if that is the TransDapt or the Redline adapter. Also, if it is a Single piece adaptor, it could be for the EA81 intake... if so, it won't work on the EA82 intake. Kind Regards.

My BumbleBeast has that Chimes inside a Small Black Box... I Had to Disconnect it when my Baby Daughter was Born, because when I opened the Door, the Chime waked her up. On my Wife's Kia Sephia it was a Digital Box and I needed to remove that annoying sound, so I Removed the mini Speaker from that Box and placed there a LED Light that Blinks instead of that Noisy digitalized sound. it is Nice for Subaru to use Real Chimes like old Phones got, instead digitalized noises. Kind Regards.

Yes. I Believe it is a bad Idea... Just like make fit the 9007 Bulb on the 9004 Base: The optics on the Headlamps (internal mirrors' alignment and Placing) is Different. Let me Explain: The 9007 (and 9107) Bulbs have Axial Filaments placed almost in the Middle of the Glass Cylinder on the Bulb, while the 9104 Bulb has axial filaments placed almost to the Top of the same Glass Cylinder on the Bulb. Why? to compensate the angle on the Mirrors, inside the Headlamps, that makes the Light beam to be a little Narrower but to reach almost Twice the Distance. Please, note their Placement Up on the Glass Cylinder, even above the Placement of the ordinary 9004 Bulb's Filaments: By that way, I can be Sure those 9104 bulbs were designed for the 9004 Headlamp, also they worked Fine in Low / High Beams the many years I Ran my Subies with 9104 Bulbs. While the 9007 Bulbs had problems to work on the 9004 Headlamps, due to the Wiring (is Different) also they didn't fit and as I already explained in my post above, you'll need to remake one of the alignment channels (The middle one) to let the 9007 Bulb Fit on the 9004 Lamp and Still you'll Have a Problem: Since the Placement of the 9007 Filaments is different, you'll have a High / Low Beam goin' side by Side, as I Already explained in my post above. So, I Kindly suggest you to avoid the use of 9007 (or 9107) Bulbs on 9004 Headlamps. Not only my own experience learned me to avoid that, but also you can read the same I wrote here on the Link you posted: http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/9004_9007.pdf Kind Regards.

Let me write some useful information: 9004 Headlams are designed to throw the Light beams to the road whith them placed at short altitude from the Road, in example our Subies: the 9004 Headlamps' placement is at less than one meter (Less than three feet) from the Road, so the Headlamps' illumination pattern will work as designed, properly with their 9004 Bulbs. 9007 Headlamps are designed For Higher placements, in example the Mazda B2300 pick-up; so, Those headlamps are designed to be mounted on taller vehicles, so the illumination pattern works properly with their 9007 Bulbs, they're designed to be mounted higher than one meter (three feet) from the Road. 9004 and 9007 headlamps' had they internal mirrors placed to be at Different altitudes. That been said, please Do Not confuse the 9004 and 9007 Bulbs, because while they looks identical, They are designed to work spreading the Light at different altitudes from the Road, with differently designed Headlamps. Also a 9007 Bulb will not match the 9004 Headlamps' Base, because the Alignment channels (Guides) on the Bulbs are placed differently: The Left and Right guides are equal on both bulbs but the middle one is moved closer to one side on the 9004 bulb, while is on the other side on the 9007 bulb. If you modify a 9007 Bulb to work on a 9004 Headlamp (by making -cutting- another middle guide in the 9007 Bulb to fit the 9004 headlamp Pattern) You will end with the High / Low Beams going Side to Side, instead of Up / Down. That gives poor illumination and could be Dangerous to blind the incomin' driver. So: 9004 and 9104 Bulbs are interchangeable. 9007 and 9107 Bulbs are interchangeable. Forget about to interchange between 9007 (or 9107) with 9004 (or 9104) Bulbs / Headlamps. I learned that because "I've Been there, Done that and Came Back" in late 1990's decade when I Tried to use Bulbs between my Subies and my Dad's Mazda B2300 (a very tall rebagged Ford Rager) ... I ended obtaining 9107 Flösser Rally Bulbs with 100/80 Watts output for my Dad's truck then, and they have more than ten years performing great. Kind Regards.

Remember: An Old Brake fluid with enough Humidity, could evaporate easily if you use your brakes very much, in example: when you Drive a lot Downhill while using the brakes all the time, instead the gearbox to keep the speed. Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! It seems like US Laws are against the use of 'Real' 9104 Bulb, which really is an H4 100/80 Watts Bulb with Standard 9004 Base: So it has Vertical filaments as the H4 Does, Vertical Filaments ensure a Larger illumination Pattern. The one with Horizontal Filaments is not a 'Real' 9104 Rally Bulb, is just a High power (100/80 Watts) 9004 Bulb, Horizontal Filaments gets Wider but Shorter beam Pattern, as Standard 9004 Bulb, but 100/80 Watts Should be Brighter than the Stock 65/55 Watts. I Kindly Suggest you to Swap your Bulb's Terminals with Ceramic ones... or with time they will "cook" the plastic due to the Extra power. Link: http://www.hiwtc.com/products/9004-9007-ceramic-lampholder-197379-22653.htm Kind Regards.

About the Soft lines idea: I had that problem on my '69 Mercury, (it has a Single line in the rear that goes to the diff) I Just changed it with a new one and Voilá! Worth Try that fix, its a Good idea and a point to verify. Kind Regards.

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