Loyale 2.7 Turbo

That is the Hill Holder Mechanism, it has a Return Spring.

Since no one replied at that... I Wonder if those Headlamp Washers wasn't available in the USA? We got them as an Option, to clean mud, dirt & Snow I Guess... Here you can see them in a Latin American Subaru GL: Here on the Subaru Loyale: Here on the Eropean Subaru Alpin: Also, the Rally version got them, as you can see here: I was thinking about use them with some of those Chemical products as Rain-X, but You'll need to swap Headlamp washers from other vehicle... Kind Regards.

By the way... I've seen here one Loyale with Headlight Washers.

Then, why don't treat those areas too... it Might make 'em Slippery enough to make the Snow slip away with the Wind at cruise speeds. Kind Regards.

One Dollar Coin? ... Nice! ... Pics Please, I Haven't seen those. Kind Regards.

Seems like you already found the Culprit... You can re-attach the Cable in its place, but somehow it looks like it could break soon. Also, it seems to be loose... Good Luck!

The coolant passage isn't needed anymore with the Weber... So is good Idea to Close it when you do a Weber carb Swap, to avoid Problems. I also Blocked it with aluminium welding, on my EA82. Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! ... Good advice. That's the way How I did sometimes to crawl under the Dash and reach some sneaky spots. So, have you already searched what's wrong there?

Hi Everyone! My BumbleBeast already has a Great Dual Beam H.I.D.'s with Natural (Yelowish) Colour, not Blueish; so it has Great Lights. But as I Tend to Drive it 60% on Cities and Paved Roads and 40% off-Roading, those main headlamps are adjusted for Safer Visibility on Road, I Mean they're Two Beams and I take the measurements to avoid to burn the incoming driver's eyes by Using the Low beam which makes the Lights to come down nearby the front of the car. So, I Need a good pair of Fog Lights to use under Off-Road conditions only; so I can move them to better achieve the ilumination pattern for our bad mountain roads and by this way, I'll have two different Light setups intended for the two Different Driving conditions. In the Past I used Cheap chinese Fog Lights but the ones with Glass lenses, (not Plastic lenses) and I Prepared them for the Battle as Follows: - Replaced the Cheap 55W Bulbs with an Good Quality (Osram or Flösser brands) 100W Bulbs - Covered all the Surroundings of the Chinese Housing with Clear Silicone. By that way, those Fog lights tend to perform very Good, but their metal housing tend to Rust after a couple of years of use and that leads to the back mirror on them to be blackened. Tired of that, I'm now Hunting for an Alternative to that Solution... H.I.D. Fog lights are too expensive and since I do many off-Roading on my BumbleBeast, I have the risk to break them easily... Not worth the Cost. So I Came across with these: They have rugged case housing and one-Watt output per each Led Bulb. Have you ever seen a one watt led in a Flashlight? ... those are Powerful! There are other cheaper alternatives on the Market, like this ones: But those make the Ten Watts output by the Sum of all the 10 LEDs, five on each Lamp... Compare with the fourteen bulbs on each lamp of the Rugged ones: 28 watts on a Pair of Lamps. Well... I Really liked the first ones, this are their measurements: So I Believe they'll fit right under my BumbleBeast's front Bumper. Also, some of the advantages of those Leds are that they suck less power from the electric System and they will last longer than any Halogens, plus they work at cooler temperature (Cool to the touch)... I Hope their Housing will be long lasting too, because it is made of aluminium... No Iron to Rust there. The only problem is that those Rugged Off Road Led Lights are way too expensive for me... But there are other ones even more Expensives like these: The ones that I Like are expensive in Amazon ______________________________________________________________ Now is Questions time: - Does anyone Run Led Fog Lights (for Offroading) on a Subaru? - Does anyone know where to buy them Cheaper? - Or a Cheaper (but Good) Alternative? I Really don't want to go back to Halogens anymore... Kind Regards.

Long time ago, I invented my own 2" lift for the Rear (as you can read Here) of my EA82 wagon by using other cars' parts, so I Needed a 2" Lift kit only for the Front to get the car fully lifted. So I explained the Situation to Scott and he Helped me, he done an SJR 2" Lift kit only for the Front. Let me tell you that it is Amazing, because it is really Professionally made and welded, using strong metal; also has the Exact measurements and that makes the install to Flow easy without problems. Come and see Pics of it and the fully 2" Lifted BumbleBeast, here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117874&page=3 SJR products are Awesome! Kind Regards.

Amazing Project! By Sterling you mean the British Car? Pics Please. Kind Regards

Could I Ask if you Replaced the thermostat with the Genuine Subaru one in the correct temperature range? Because the Symptoms you describe could also be caused by a Stuck closed or Higher Temperature Thermostat. Kind Regards.

I Believe that you Surrounded the Brake Pedal, not the Clutch one but I Understand your Idea: Maybe the Lockin' pin just fell off somehow...

This is the usual "Feeling" you'll have on any "Snapped" Cable... How could it be still atached if it is Bursted?

Yes, that is it and I Believe it should be the Same for the 2WD or 4WD models. Kind Regards.

First of all I Kindly suggest you to wear your Winter clothes... because its Winter time there. You'll need to remove the under-the-Dash plastic Panels to expose the Pedals' mountings and then you will be able to check properly what is really goin' on there. You'll need to be Sure that the Cable is Snapped: it could be Snapped from three usual places: the Clutch pedal's Head, the pressure plate's head, or in the Middle - specially if the old cable had a bad route that twisted it to work. If so, you'll need to completely remove and take out the whole Clutch pedal assembly, because the new clutch cable's head needs to be retained and the retainer is only accesible by removing the pedal. Then you'll need to unhook the Clutch cable from the Clutch's pressure plate's Lever. Then, remove the Old Clutch cable and place the new one in the correct Route: Usually as the old one was placed. Finally, Hook both ends' heads of the new Clutch cable and Put the Clutch pedal back in its place... and Voilá! That's it... But you'll need to be Sure that the Culprit is a Worn clutch Cable. Anyhow, you'll need to remove those plastic panels to check what's goin' on. Good Luck! Kind Regards

The Whiter Exhaust Faded away after a week of Driving... Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! I Placed one of those on my BumbleBeast, here's the Thread, it Might help you: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118239&page=3 You'll need to highlight the Yellow text to make it readable... I Hope it will be fixed soon. (Explanation about that, here) Kind Regards.

Seems like your Subie's Clutch cable just snapped... if so, You'll only need to replace it. You can either search for a good used one at your local Junk yards, or (Better Idea) Buy a new one, it will not be too expensive. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Yes, I Already found the Solution last December... I was just waiting a Whole Month of test drive my BumbleBeast prior to post here what I did, in order to give just the Proper advice. So, I'll post here all the information Soon. Kind Regards.

Yes that works fine for the Stock EA82 that also has a permanent mechanical Fan, because it is how factory intended to use the electric fan: As Auxiliar, so It comes ON at 203º F (95º C) and that is Hotter than I should run permanently my BumbleBeast without the mechanical fan... Remember: I wanted a "Cooler" temp thermoswitch, because I'm gettin' Rid of the mechanical Fan.

Let me tell you this Idea: If your Power Steerin' is still working with ATF Fluid as Factory intended and it is Leaking, I Kindly suggest you to Drain all the ATF fluid from the System and pour there Fresh new Power Steering Fluid from a known good Brand. That solved the problem for my BumbleBeast long years ago and I Still drive it with Power Steering Fluid without leaks. It Works because the additives and the thickness of those oils are different. Of course I Used a Power Steering Fluid that contains "Sealers & Conditioners" for High mileage vehicles. The Result is a 10% harder steering but it works just fine. I Hope my solution can help you. Kind Regards.

Well... if it is carbed and it has a lot of Blown-by oil, I Kindly suggest you, beside cleaning the PCV, an oil Catch can placed between the Driver's side head hose and the Air filter Box. Kind Regards.

Plastic Bag? Very Nice Convertible you have... I've only seen one in my Country. I Like the idea of a Subaru Logo on the Weber's Air Cleaner Box. Kind Regards.

Well... I had my BumbleBeast very tall in the rear (since the Suspension swap I did, more info here) and that really Unbalanced the overall Driving performance, also it was dangerous under emergency situations... Mine is EA82 but the SJR 2" Lift kit (For the Front only) resolved the problem at all, while made the Body to be Equal in both ends. So I kindly suggest to use a Lift kit including the Engine crossmember drop blocks, to keep the axles as straight as possible or you'll Kill the axles 10X faster. Kind Regards.