Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Here you Go!

The Weber 32/36 is the same, the only difference is the Choke: DGEV = Electric Choke, the DGAV = Water Choke, and so. For the EA81 engine the Conversion kit is the K-730 from Redline-Weber. I Obtained my K-731 Kit (For EA82) Redline-Weber that included the 32/36 Weber carburetor Already Jetted for Subaru, plus the Adaptor Plates and Air Filter Box with element, everything Brand new, Here: www.webercarburetors.com Your 1983 Twin carb engine should be the EA81, or is the EA71? ... I am Not Sure if the EA81 twin carb Shares the Carburetor's Base Size with the EA71 Twin Carb... So maybe you'll need another adaptor plate. The Best way to do Cheap a Twin Weber carbs Setup on your engine, is obtaining Used 32/36 Webers and their adaptors... maybe thru e-Bay. Kind Regards.

Yes, it sounds Nice... imagine all the Spinning things there, the Engine should look more... Complicated! ... ... I Like the Idea! So Oil & Dirt will not be so very Harmful to the Timing Belts, but... Could a Steam / Hot Water Wash, Damage the Belts? Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! ... I'm Glad that you Fixed your engine's Rings problem. If the Problem is that the PCV Sucks oil and it goes to the Vacuum Lines thru the intake manifold; I Solved a Similar problem in my BumbleBeast Subaru, by adding an Oil Catch Can (Oil / Fumes separator) to the 5/8" Hose that comes with Fumes (and oil blown-by on my Subie) from the Passenger's Side head cover, Prior to route it to the PCV valve. Pics here, at the end of this Post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1043339&postcount=10 Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.

Could I Kindly ask you if you already Tried to Drive your Subaru with that Tempo Coil Springs? I'll Like to read How was your Overall experience. Kind Regards.

There is a USMB Friend that Makes Wiring Harness + ECU Ready for the EJ Swap on those EA82 engined Subies. I Don't remember right now who is but I believe Recall Numbchux or Suberdave. Kind Regards.

Now my Only Concern is when I do Steam wash the Engine... Will the Hot Water / Steam be Harmfull to the Timin' Belts?

Thank you for you answer, yes, there is No Snow here at the caribbean; and regarding the Porcupines... yes there are some but they usually stays away from Humans and their things. Kind Regards.

Nice! How was the Fuel consumption?

LoL! Who eats on the engine bay? Kind Regards.

Well... I have a '69 Mercury comet Coupe, so I understand that Feeling. I Kindly suggest you to read that Thread to fully understand that Situation. Yes, you can disconnect the Cables... I did it for a while, but is Safer to Close the e-brake openings in the Caliper's Cylinders if you really want to get Rid of the e-brakes. My next step will be to Retrofit the Rear e-brakes from a Nissan 200 SX. Kind Regards.

Usually, a brake disc slightly distorted will make the Brake pads to rub a Li'l bit under motion, sometimes the Rub becomes even worse and then the Sound comes. The adjustment is under the Center console, right on the Flat panel under the e-Brake Handle. If your e-Brake is Failing, the Answer Should be to Buy a Complete Rebuild Kit from Subaru and Try to Rebuild it again... Here I have Pictures and Part Numbers for everything: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101883&page=7 I have been thru the Front e-brake Nightmare and I ended Deleting the Fronrt e-brake at all. My BumbleBeast is a 1985 Weberized EA82. Kind Regards.

This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background information regarding the Timing Belts. I Don't want to Open a Can of Worms asking if I Should let the plastic covers off or reinstall them. I have read for years, opinions of people that Preffer them on and other people that Preffer them off, each one with their own reasons. I Did the Last Timing belt service on my BumbleBeast in Year 2009, when I Found This: Then I obtained The New timing Belts + new Covers at the Local Subaru Dealer: However the new covers' set came incomplete and I decided to let the Timing belts' covers off ... ... So, the reason of this thread, are this two Questions regarding Coverless Belts: ► In the case I have a Power Steerin' failure that spills out the fluid, or a Water pump failure that spills out the coolant, Will the Timing Belts Slip? ► Also, if I Let my Subie unused for some months (I Plan to Travel to my Hometown to my Parents' home for Vacation) Could the Timing Belts be Damaged by Rodents or insects? Kind Regards. ► I Edited certain posts of this thread, to change their text colour, from Yellow (used when the Forum's Background was Charcoal) to Blue.

Remember that the Dual-Carb engines are Different than its Single carb counterparts, in example the Heads are Different, the Valves are Located on the Opposite side each other, etc... So the 66 Number could be Special for this kind of engine (Dual Carb) only. Kind Regards.

Thank you! I'll consider the "Massage" idea, it will depend on the Tires I could found Soon. Kind Regards.

Nice Green Brat! Could it Belong to a USMB Member?

Only in Photos and the Old Subaru Brochures for certain markets, it came in the Sporty RX with Checkered seats as an Option. That Steerin' wheel is made by MOMO. There was also a Simplier version, as Seen in This Brochure for the RX II: Kind Regards.

Welcome! if you're Not Sure if 4WD isn't Working, you can do some tests. in example: Try to Accelerate in a Muddy / Snowy \ loose Terrain while someone else Looks at the Tires for Spin. The vacuum accumulator bottle, under the windshield, behind the passenger's strut tower (on LHD Models) at the Engine Bay, provides vacuum for the A/C Buttons on the Dashboard, plus for the 4WD engagement on the Push-Button transmission models, check the vacuum lines around it. Kind Regards. ►Edited to fix the Yellow Text.

Nice Pictures! I'm Glad to Read that your Sube's engine is Runnin' Better Now. About This: Let me Tell you that if the Short circuit persist and it make the Needle to raise to the Peak, the Needle will be Damaged: it happened to my Subie, now the Needle reads Under the Low mark... So I Kindly suggest you to Check there ASAP. Also, the Thinner Oil + Marvel Mistery Oil could have increased the Overall pressure and Might not be a Wrong reading. Kind Regards.

Welcome! The Twin carb engine has a Different Design on its Heads: the Valves are in opposite position than the Single carb engine and other Things... so I kindly suggest you to Try to Keep it all Complete. The Best thing I've seen done to that Twin carb setups is to Swap a Couple of 32/36 Weber carbs instead of the hitachi crap carbs. It will be nice to post Pictures of your Subie. Kind Regards.

That's the Reason why I removed all the EGR stuff from my BumbleBeast, plus the New (Third Gen EA82) Heads came factory without EGR pipe. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206 Kind Regards.

If your Subaru is Front wheel Drive only and 5 Speed Manual trans, Then your Readings are alright: They're intended to Stay Low from Factory, for Fuel economy. Kind Regards.

There's No Need to use a "Tee" Nor to Share the Vacuum advance Port with the EGR, because the Weber 32/36 (I assume you're installing that Model) Has Two independent vacuum ports in Front, One (The one that comes Open) is for the Vacuum advance while the another one (The one that comes Blocked with a tiny Screw) is for the EGR. To use it, just unscrew the Blockin' screw and hook the EGR to it. Kind Regards.

Thank you! Well... the Head unit is a Sony Xplod MP3, easy to Use and Powerfull, well, Just 52 Watts per channel (52 X 4 = 208 Total output) Powerin' the 6½" Speakers all around is enough for me to Listen my Favourite Iron Maiden Songs :headbang:along the BoomBox, which is Self Amplified; it has all the Harware Built in, but it takes its Music source from the Head unit's dedicated "Woofer" output. I listen Heavy Metal only when I'm Alone... Usually I play Baby Music (Lullabies) when I Transport my Baby Daughter... Kind Regards.

No. Nope! Loyales came Factory with 4" Front Speakers installed on some sort of 5" metallic adaptor to the Door, While the Rear Speakers came 6½" installed directly to the Door. My Wagons Run Front and Rear 6½" Speakers, I installed the Front ones over the Door Plastic Panel to let them Fit Better, as you can see here: Also I Run a 12" Dual Speakers "Omega" BoomBox that came factory with its amplifier and quiet Cooling fans Built in, in the Rear, as you can see here: Kind Regards.