Loyale 2.7 Turbo

In honduras, we have 4WD toyota Carina Diesel, and Toyota Corolla Gasoline in 4WD wagon Fashion: Kind Regards.

Awesome!

I will Love to see a Lifted Tribeca with good offroad tires!

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152891-recurrent-question-how-to-share-photos-on-your-posts/

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152891-recurrent-question-how-to-share-photos-on-your-posts/

Thank you! Thank you, and you're right: Instead of working as Lawyer, now I manage the Storage and Distribution of different hardware and bulky items, delivering them in big Trucks to different places as required. Thank You! Here in this small mountain village, the roads are Better -for me- mainly because of two reasons: There are No traffic jams and there are nice natural environments and landscapes around, but the roads becomes Worse, after the huge caribbean Downpours we have here... try to drive a huge, loaded truck in the slippery mud of the unpaved secondary roads (which are much more than the paved roads), and you'll understand: What was Fun with my Subie, becomes a nightmare with the Trucks I drive now. Please follow ~► This Link, to see some photos and further info regarding Rural Honduras. Yes, I'll do that. Thank you! Kind Regards.

Yep, here's it: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129779-the-definitive-rear-e-brake-retrofit-solution/ Kind Regards.

For those who might being wondering... I've been in "offline mode" since last december 'till now. My li'l family and I, moved from a big city, to a small "mountain top" village, in the Rural area of Honduras. We are not working as lawyers anymore... I'll try to access internet at least once per week. Kind Regards and warm greetings.

Yes, it is an old thread... But that doesn't mean that we should not help someone in need of information. I would start by capping close all the vacuum ports on the Hitachi carburetor, except the one that feeds the secondary -high- stage's actuator on the Carb and the one for the vacuum advance at the Distributor; or even better, convert the Hitachi carburetor to Mechanical actuator instead of vacuum. You might find useful information, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147163-mechanical-conversion-on-hitachi-carburetors/ Kind Regards.

The "Fix" really lies in isolating Properly the wire, that goes from the oil pump's sender to the oil pressure gauge, as what really damages the gauge, are those grounding short circuits, which occurs when such wire touches the bare metal, making what you described, which I highlighted above; that stretches the gauge and makes it to read below zero. As I wrote above, I only slided it gently, with my finger, above mark, farther from its usual end, in order to raise the needle from below the Zero mark; however, despite it now sits at the zero mark, it doesn't read the pressure as it should, because it is stretched by the short circuits; now it only travels ~ 66% from the total travel (2/3) making it to read even lower than it should be. Yes, a new gauge will fix that low reading issue, but it will get damaged too, if you don't address and fix the root of the problem: the grounding short circuits on the wire, described above. Don't forget to share Photos of your LED retrofitted instrument cluster, with us, in this thread. Kind Regards.

Thank You, I'm glad that you find it useful. I kindly suggest you to remove all the door's cards and do a Cleansing and Lubrication of those motors / complete mechanism; you'll see that the power windows will work almost like new after that. Kind Regards.

Sorry for hijack this thread ... that subject has been covered before in the Forums; and as far as I know, is easy if both subies are carbureted and uses same amount of wires; you swap entire distributors along their ignition coils and that's it. ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/72561-good-or-bad-nippon-or-hitach-distys/ Kind Regards.

... Or download your free digital copy, ~► Here. Kind Regards.

Try Latin America. (LADM = Latin American Domestic Market) Subaru sold their Third gen Leone / L-Series \ Loyale, up to 1994, with the "Fat Case" EA71 1600 engine, because it was somehow the "Standard" engine for the DL Wagons; while the EA65 1300 engine was the "Standard" for the DL Sedans; the same happened in certain asian markets, such as israel, pakistan, etc... The 1800 was optional / part of the Luxury GL package or trim level. Yes, and in my own humble opinion, the Nippon-Denso distributors, are better than the Hitachi, and works easier with aftermarket ignition coils; my "BumbleBeast" runs with one of those, I only changed its dual port vacuum advance, for a single port one, during my Weber carburetor Swap; and their rotors are very common, as Nippon-Denso used the same part for many other japanese cars from that era. As is explained above by dfoyl, the 1600 is the EA71 engine. I better explain this to you: Subaru has three 1800 engines, the EA81, the EA82 and the EJ18. Despite that the EA82 engine is older than the EJ18, and the EA81 is even older than the other two; said three engines were in production simultaneously at certain point, as production of the EA81 and EA82 ceased in 1994, and production of the EJ18 started in december 1988 and continued... So, parts catalog overlaps parts for those engines, somehow. Since no EJ engine were mounted on any L-Series from factory, your Subie should have the EA82 engine. While the EA81 engines were mounted mainly on Brats / Brumbies, during those late production years; and the EJ18 engines were mounted in early Legacy Wagons, for certain markets, such like Latin America. If you understand which engine is which, you will avoid obtaining parts for the Wrong engine. So, you must be SURE that you are ordering parts for the engine that your Subie has. If you have any doubt, I kindly suggest you to share here, a couple of Photos from your Subie's engine bay, so we could help you to understand which engine your subie has, and any other pertaining information you might need. Remember: an image worth 1000 words. Kind Regards.

Gotta Love the Colour!!!

There are two kinds of Distributors for the EA82, the electronic and the Optical ones. Also, there are two different electronic Distributors, the Nippon-Denso and the Hitachi. The Nippon-Denso distributors have faster advance curve, and do not have the screw that holds the rotor in place; also their caps are held in place by two metal clips; While the Hitachi distributors, have the screw that holds the rotor in place, and their caps are held by screws too. Nippon-Denso distributors are found in 2WD EA82's and Hitachi on 4WD EA82's. You're Welcome. Greetings from the warm Caribbean. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your kind words about my Country. Almost everything is the same between EA82's, except the fuel management, as some have: ► Standard Carburetor. ► Feedback Carburetor. ► Single Point Fuel Injection (SPFi, also known as TBi, or Throttle body injection) ► Multi Point Fuel Injection (MPFi) ► Turbo MPFi So you must need to be Sure which edition of the EA82 engine you have. Other body parts are the same between Loyale and GL / third gen Leone; Except those parts that has Side, as certain are for LHD and others are for RHD. Kind Regards.

Welcome! Yes, many part are identical, and other parts will be different; first: you must be completely Sure which engine is on your '90 L-series, because it likely has the EA82, but certainly there were other different engines available for this Body, in different world markets. Also, certain parts are for LHD models and other parts are for RHD, such like the steering rack. Kind Regards.

I mean Videos of your Sterling / Subaru in Action. Here is another project from another member: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124053-suby-in-baja/?do=findComment&comment=1047603 Kind Regards.

Welcome! Your vehicle looks Great, thank you for Sharing. Long ago, another USMB member had a kit car like that, but Green, it was an unfinished project... I'm glad to see a finished one, it looks Great! Do you have Videos? ... Kind Regards.

Appreciated Sapper 157, After the many questions you wrote on this thread, I edited a post on my Writeup to make it be more clear, by detailing everything; I am sorry for not detailing many stuff then, that was my fault as I assumed that all the people here, already had experience with some of the stuff that I wrote. So Thank you for your questions, and continue asking, if you have more. Also, here in USMB are more people that can give even better answers and advice than I, so lets read from them; especially with this question: I can not properly answer this question, because I completely got Rid of both Catalytic converters on my EA82 subie, since more than two decades ago... Kind Regards.

Sorry for not answering directly, I lost my internet / cable TV connection @ home, so I had to ask by phone a friend (carmen) to check this thread and answer for me; but the questions are more now, and I am on a Cybercafé's computer, at the shoppin' mall. ► Your kit always provide two gaskets for the Weber, because you might need a replacement in the Future, Or you will install the Phenolic temp isolant between both gaskets; as explained with a photo, on my Writeup. ► Yes, closing the ASV will make it Quiet; but the main noise source, will be the Weber's throat under deep acceleration; if you want it Quiet as before, use the stock air filter Box and element. ► 12V controlled by the ignition, is a power source that turns on / off with the Key. I hope this will clear your questions. Kind Regards.

That's Weird. It has Spark and Timing is Good because it was working right... But: is there Fuel on the Tank and it comes with good pressure to the intake? Have you checked if something is blocking the Air at the air filter's Box?

Sometimes, it is the whole tail gate which is out of adjustment. Notice that the Hinges have space to let the bolts to slide... Kind Regards.

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/