Loyale 2.7 Turbo

The Hill Holder acts as a Valve that Closes when the Clutch pedal is Pressed (To Retain Pressure sent to the Rear Wheels), so if it is Closed when your Brakes become "Rock Hard" that makes me believe that the Problem is Located on the Rear Wheels only. So those might Need Bleeding at the Master Cylinder and also, the problem could be on the Rubber Lines... (on each rear wheel) Kind Regards.

Here, some useful info... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118248 Kind Regards.

Could you Post Pics of your Other Trike? Kind Regards.

I always sign my photos... So if they get posted outside this forums, at least they will Know the Author.

Many local Stores sell european Oils here, mainly Motul and Lubro-Moly (Same as Liqui-Moly) even our Local Napa Parts Store has them... I Don't know in USA, but you can obtain it from amazon, online: http://www.amazon.com/Motul-31721L-Molybdenum-Bisulphide-Differential/dp/B004LEZPGK/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1317415115&sr=1-3 Kind Regards.

I Didn't knew that you could Run a Manual Transmission & Diff with ATF! I've tested many Gearbox / Differential Oils in the Past, in many cars and in my Own experience with those, Specially with Older Gearboxes or Diffs, The Best oil is the one Reinforced with Molybdene: Somehow is the Same Black Grease Base that we use on C.V. Joints: (Motul 31721L Gearbox 80W-90 Molybdenum Bisulphide -MoS2- Reinforced Extreme Pressure Gearbox and Differential Lubricant) This Shiny Black Oil not only makes Quieter any old Gearbox, it also makes Easier Shifting. Believe me, the Difference is Huge, I Run my Weberized Wagon's 5MT with it since around year 2000 (I usually Change it every three years), also I poured it onto many other Manual Cars with great results. Kind Regards.

I Think the Same! The Subaru XV Diesel came to Latin America since 2010, but it wasn't Lifted Yet: http://www.subaruxv.cl/ The Lifted one (New Version), will come in January 2012: http://www.autocity.com/novedades/subaru/xv/15-09-2011/index_novedad.html?cod=8985 I Believe one of the Reasons for the Delay of introducing the Boxer Diesel to the U.S.A. is the Many problems that Diesel engine has given, Many Premature Fails, as you can Read in this Forums: http://www.autocity.com/foros_coches_motos/verRespuestasMensaje.html?cod=201606&padre=201606&foro=386&offset=0&numero=20&marca=&categoria=&nombreForo=&offsetF=&orden Let me Translate a Couple of Posts from that Spanish Forums (using google online translator): Seems like the Problems they have are related to the Diesel engine Only... I Hope that Subaru will Refine it more soon. Kind Regards.

Basically What are the Plans with that nice Datsun and if you want to Paint it in an uniform colour... Also the Girl over it Looks Nice! ... ... I Like the Picture. Kind Regards.

Lots of Old Datsuns are Runnin' Strong here... Few are Looking Good, but I've not seen any 610 coupe in "Person". Yours is Looking Good! ... Could I Ask more info about the Above posted Picture? Kind Regards.

About my Friend's Lifted Land Cruiser Pictures: I went to visit him and also I took Pics of his Ride... Let me Download 'em from my Camera & Upload 'em to post here ASAP. He explained the Lift process done to his Land Cruiser and seems no very complicated... I'll explain it here along with the Pictures if you want to, Tom. Kind Regards.

That's a Big & Beautiful Trike for Sure, I Like it!

The Headache of the Belts on the Subaru EA engines. (No, I'm not writing about Timing Belts, just Regular Belts) The EA82 Engined vehicles, came more often with common "V" Belts, but the XT lineup came with Serpentine Belts. Those that came with "V" Belts, either featured Air Conditioner or Not; and those which featured Air Conditioner, came either, with the Factory Setup that is Known as the "inboard" Compressor, or with the Dealer installed Setup, which is known as the "outboard" Compressor. Inboard refers to those setups that features the Alternator next to the Battery, and the Compressor is Next to it, towards the center of the Engine.Outboard refers to those setups that features the Compressor next to the Battery, and the alternator is next to it, towards the center of the Engine.In both cases, the Power Steering Pump, on those models which has that Feature, goes in the center of the engine. In the case of the "V" belts, Not only their Long measurement does matter; but also their Wide measurement; The "V" belts are known with a Letter and then a Number; the Letter means the Wider, Standard or Narrower of their wide measurement; and the Number is their long size measurement, as far as I know... The nomenclature for refering to "V" Belts goes as follows: ► Wider Belts starts with the letter "B" and usually are used by Trucks; Examples: B-40, B-28, etc... ► Standard Belts starts with the letter "A" and are used in Sedans and Light Trucks. Examples: A-39, A-52, etc... ► Narrower Belts starts with the letter "F" and are used mainly in small vehicles. Examples: F-15, F-35, etc... Despite that such nomenclature is not much used nowadays, I'll use it here for easy reference for old-schoolers like me; along the newer style part numbers. What I noticed, is that "Standard" or "A" Belts, does not reach to completely Sit on the Pulleys of these Subaru engines, thus means that the belts works more on their sidewalls; which makes that sometimes, when you engage the Air Conditioner, the Compressor's pulley will make a terrible "Screech" noise for a while... But I solved that issue Long years ago, by switching my Subaru "BumbleBeast" from the Standard "A" Belts, to the Narrower "F" Belts, whose smaller wide size, lets them to completely sit on the Pulleys. Long time ago, I shared here the Numbers of the two narrower Belts that I used, my Subie is from the EA82 models that featured Factory (Hitachi) inboard air conditioner, and also power steering pump; so these are the Belts that I used: Kind Regards.

Mine is Amber (like the Rest of the Dashboard)... not Orange but you could think is Orange due to the Age & Dust there . The Trip computer's clock has a Different Display... not only the Colour. See: Burnt Fuse / False Contact \ Loose wire at the Other end?

Now I'm Workin' on Certain Wooden parts to Substitute the Cracked Plastic ones, as I Did the Wooden Frame for the Stereo: The Full Writeup with detailed Photos is: ~► Here.

I changed all the Old, worn roundie Relays that were rated at 22 Amps maximum, with Newer Bosch Standard Relays rated at 40 Amps; and I uploaded a Complete Writeup on the Subject that features: Easy understanding the Relays and easy Wiring Ideas. The Writeup is plenty of Photos and step by Step procedures; so you will know where are located the main Relays, What do they power and how to retrofit newer, more capable ones. Also, you'll know how to wire Extra Relays for Halogens, Horns, etc... I made Photo Diagrams for easy understanding. Also I changed certain portions of the Wiring, that had worn plugs: The Complete Writeup is, ~► Here.

I did a Complete Suspension Reinforcement ...using parts from Other Cars... The Full Writeup, plenty of Photos is ~► Here.

Seeking Better illumination for my many nocturnal voyages, I retrofitted a special 55W, Dual Beam H.I.D. HeadLights!!! But First, let me Explain Something: I've Changed the Corner Lights Too, with White Led Lights, in order to Match the H.I.D. Beam Colour! ... ... I Have Used many Kinds of One-Contact Bulbs There, This is a Brief Idea of the One-Contact Bulb's Evolution: So, I Used All of Them in the corner lights, except the Big Headed one... (it Does Not Fit on the Subie's Lamps) ...and the One Contact Halogen. Those are just for Reverse Lights Only, due to Their Workin' Temperature ... They can Melt the Plastic Lenses in Long Time of Use. The Dynamo one is for Bicicles using a Dynamo Generator, it is 12 Volts but Twice the Output of a Regular Bulb... but They Does not last too Long on a Car, due to the Higher Amperage Levels. So my Subie Have the Newer one, the Multiple Leds 5000K Bulbs! Now, here you can See How the H.I.D. Kit Came Packaged by Mail: This is How it Looks, Just Out of the Box! Then I installed the Passenger's side Ballast, just Behind the HeadLamp, on the inner side of the Fender: But to place the other Ballast on the Driver's side wasn't easy; I had to remove the Coolant Overflow tank, remove the metallic base for it that the inner fender had, then I noticed that I could place only one of the needed two screws for the Ballast; so, what I did to solve that, was to open a large hole on the side where I can't place a screw, and raise one of said hole's sides. Here's a photo, after all that was done, and the Surfaces were repainted: What I did, was to "Slide" the base for the screw, inside the raised side of the opened hole: Finally I secured the Ballast in Place, using the other side's screw: Then I placed their Control Unit, just behind the ignition coil, on the Strut Tower: Finally, I obtained a Relay & Fuse Box from an early 1990's decade Toyota Corolla, which I modified in order to let it have inside only what I needed, such like an Standard Bosch Relay, and certain Fuses; also I obtained one of the rear Aluminium Mud Flaps from a 1998 4 Runner, cut a small part from it and bent it in a 90º angle, in order to make a metallic mount for said Relay & Fuse Box, which allows me to install it, over the Driver's side Ballast, see: Here, you can see how far is it from the Ballast, and how close is it from the Battery, Perfect Placement! Here's a photo of said Box internals: This Box allows me to have a Cleaner engine bay, Safer setup for everything, and easiness for washing Now, the Pics you're Waitin' for: illumination! ... ... see the Low Beams: And this is High Beams: A Picture Worth 1,001 Words! ... I Really Believe that now I Have Safer Night Vision in my Subie; I Do Many Night time Travels, so Security is Priority, Specially when you have Babys Feel Free to ask any questions regarding the H.I.D. Dual Beam Lights, in its own discussion thread, Which is located Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/86790-hid-lights-on-loyale-yes-or-not-why/ Kind Regards!

I installed an Oil Catch Can to separate the Blow-by Oil from the Fumes in the PCV System. See: ~► Here. Kind Regards.

Disc Brakes in all Wheels! This is How I Got Rid Permanently of the Failing Front e-Brake System: See ~► Here. Kind Regards.

Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine In this Writeup: ► Solving problems untold by the Manuals. ► Weber 32/36 Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 feet (2000 Mts.) Altitude. ► Proper PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Hoses Setup and installing an (optional) Oil Catch Can. ► A much better Adapter Plate than the standard one. ► Intake manifold modifications (optional). ► ...and Much More! Pay attention to the "Important Notes" The Complete Writeup is ~► Here. ...and the Discussion Thread on the Weber Swap Subject, is ~► Here. Feel free to ask questions or commenting about that, there. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Discussion thread's Link.

All the Retrofittings, Swaps, Adaptions, etc... that I've done to my "BumbleBeast" Subaru, will be Described in individual Writeups for easy Understanding. So, Each Writeup will be Listed in This Thread; And this Thread will be as an "Index" to my Main Writeups. Also, each writeup have its own Discussion Thread, so please, feel free to ask questions on each Discussion Thread, regarding each subject, those will be pointed at each Writeup's end. I Hope that this Build Thread will Be Useful for all you. Kind Regards.

Thank you GD for your Kind Words, which are Highly appreciated. I reinforced the Front Bumper in the "BumbleBeast" as I did it previously on my 2.7 ... The Detailed Writeup on the subject is ~► Here. Also I made a Custom Grill that Matches the Design of the Hood Scoop opening, to do the Hood Scoop, I used New Sheet Metal, cutted it to Form the Shape I Wanted and I Welded it to the Subie's Hood... the Original Idea was to Let the Weber Carb to Scream out Loudly the Old-School Boxer Rumble thru that Hood Scoop, using it as a Megaphone ... ... I Named it, the "InterFooler" I'm Glad that you Liked 'em, I'll post details about the Grill, soon. Kind Regards.

This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon. ______________________________________________________________________________________ My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it ... ... The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR... This is a very old photo which I scanned: After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" and thus explains my Screen Name. That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together: Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here) the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here. Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it. I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes: ► I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes! ► I "Shaved" the Subie's Body. (Paint thread ~► Here) ► Lifted it for medium duty offroading! ► Some minor Body Design Changes, ► and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps. Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in Yellow; That was my Motivation to Change its Colour. Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread. After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: The "BUMBLE BEAST"

Thanks for your Kind explanation. So, Kosta; What you Gonna Do? Don't Give Up! ... your Project is Amazing and I'm sure that you will Make it Run Great; Either by Fixin' the Block or obtaining another one. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Since all the Stereo units I've seen comes with an integrated Clock, the one in the Dashboard becomes redundant somehow... That is a Good Idea to re-use that Spot on the Dash with an useful thing. Kind Regards.