Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Since the Install of the Oil Catch Can, I've Noticed that the EA82 engine on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" suddenly stopped blowing Oil on the PCV System, Not only for the Oil Catch Can... which doesn't has catched a single drop of Oil since the install, but it is a "Side Effect" from the install due two facts, let me Explain: ► The PROPER Routing on the Hoses, Relief the Pressure on the PCV System to Normal, and thus reduces the amount of Blown Oil to the PCV system. ► The 5/8" Hose that comes from the Drivers' side to the Oil Catch Can, is too Long and goes Up so Far, that the small amount of Oil blown, does slide back and return by itself to the Head, so it doesn't reach the Oil Catch Can. Funny, isn't it? Kind Regards.

I've tested many Gearbox / Differential Oils in the Past, in many cars and in my Own experience with those, Specially with Older Gearboxes or Diffs, The Best oil is the one Reinforced with Molybdene: Somehow is the Same Black Grease Base that we use on C.V. Joints: (Motul 31721L Gearbox 80W-90 Molybdenum Bisulphide -MoS2- Reinforced Extreme Pressure Gearbox and Differential Lubricant) This Shiny Black Oil not only makes Quieter any old Gearbox, it also makes Easier Shifting. Believe me, the Difference is Huge, I Run my Weberized Wagon's 5MT with it since around year 2000 (I usually Change it every three years), also I poured it onto many other Manual Cars with great results. Kind Regards.

I Was about to say This: So I Agree with GD, I've done that kind of Repairs before and it Must have a Reinforcement Plate completely Welded, otherwise it will crack easily. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Cons: Older engines' Seals aren't designed for Synthetic Oils, so it could start to Leak with those. Also is more expensive than minerally based oils. Pros: The oil Change interval could be Extended... But it only applies if you Drive on Paved Roads Only, because even the Best Sealed & Filtered engine will somehow be affected by Dust or Dirt going to the Oil, so if you Drive Off Road, a Synthetic oil is not a Good Idea. I Always use Motul 20W~50 Mineral Oil on the EA82 Engine: Kind Regards.

The Above procedures are for the Carburated EA82's. However, certain EFI EA82's also has problems with their PCV System Sucking Oil, So Subaru made a PCV Re-Route Kit for those models affected with the Original PCV Routing Flaw. Part Number: SUBARU 11813AA010 You can Download a .Pdf file which has the Subaru Recall Info, and the install Procedures, ~► Here. Kind Regards.

My Weberized EA82 has its Stock Yellowish Clock Runnin' Fine since New, in 1985... Never Fail but is Dim... But I have seen one Loyale sedan here, that instead of the Clock, the owner Swapped the Big (Huge) part that has three Displays from the Dashboard of the toyota Tercel 4WD: one is (if I Remember well) the Front / Rear Angle, the Other is the Left / Right inclination; and the Last one was just the Clock. That won't fit on the Clock's Space for Sure but in the Dashboard, he Placed in Front of the Clock and used the Clock's opening in the Dash to Route the Wires. Just an Idea... it might Help you. Kind Regards.

I'm Goin' tomorrow to visit him, I'll ask him for Pics... Kind Regards.

About the Subaru / Toyota Coupe: Holy Cow ! http://www.caranddriver.com/news/spied/11q2/2012_scion_fr-s_toyota_ft-86_subaru_rwd_sports_car_spy_photos-future_cars

Have you Figured out how to Fit the V6 There? Does it Fit? You'll Build a Custom Engine Mounts + Crossmember, isn't it? Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Thanks for your Kind Words. About This: I've Done that already, I Modified the intake a bit too... Check this Thread, from Post Nº 2 for mo' info. Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82´s/ Kind Regards. ► Edited to Update the Link.

Here is an interesting comment from the owner of a '87 2.0L Mighty Max with Manual Transmission: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/mitsubishi/mighty_max/1987/ A Video of a Mighty Max with a Weber 32/36 Carb! (You can see a Red Subaru and a Lincoln there too...) and here's the Mighty Max / D50 Forums: http://www.maxd50scene.com/ I Hope those can Help with Ideas... Kind Regards.

I believe that your subie's engine has an intermitent Vacuum Leak, So I Kindly Suggest you to Check the entire intake Manyfold for small Cracks, and / or worn seals. Kind Regards.

It could be an Easy Swap, since I've seen many of those Pick up Trucks, and all of them with Manual Transmissions, so the point to place the Clutch Pedal must be There and the Hardware will fit it Right. I Believe that those came with Hydraulic Clutch, but I'm not really Sure... By the Way, those with Manual Trans aren't Gas Hungry... Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! Seems like you Off-Road it Hard but Still Lookin' Good! Kind Regards.

First, let me Tell you that I think that such Swap Really is a Bad Idea; but since I've "Been There, Done That" and lots of USMB Members have asked about that via PM to me, I Decided to do this Writeup for an Overall experience Reference. Lets Begin with a brief introduction history: My Subaru Relation Started Long Time Ago... it is a Long Story that I Already had Told here in the Past Years, but Long story Short: My Dad Purchased in 1985 (when I was Child) a White Subaru Loyale Wagon EA82 Almost new (Came Running from the Dealer in California USA, to Honduras) It ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytic converters, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here, Unleaded gasoline became available until 1994) so we Removed the Cathalytics, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR and ASV ... Now it has a Great Weber Carb, H.I.D. Lights, plus many many more Upgrades and actually is my "Everyday Warrior" renamed as "BumbleBeast". Then in 1998 a Dad's Friend who had another EA82 Wagon, that was Light Grey with minor rust in the Back of the Body, (His Garage was Short) but a dead Engine, (Ran out of Oil) was in troubles due to the Hurricane Mitch's Damages that almost destroyed my country; so my dad Purchased that grey wagon with the idea to make it a Spare Parts Car for our White Wagon, and by the Way, help his Friend with some Money... Then, in year 2000 we came across with someone who got his XT6 Horribly Crashed in the back by a Bus and was parting it out... (there are Very Few XT6's in my Li'l Country) ...we obtained its engine and then the Story Begun. To Swap ER27 engine from the XT6 on a loyale takes too much work, time and effort; also needs to be very Creative because it needed a whole Lot of things to be modified and/or created (Built). The ER27 Looks like a EA82 with an extra pair of Cylinders, but is Somehow Odd: The 2.7 does NOT have 6 exhaust ports like the SVX... it throws the exhaust like This: Two cylinders into one Port and the other Cylinder has one by itself on each side, makin' it to Sound like an Old Porsche. Also The 2.7 timing belts are wider than the 1.8 ones. Dad and I (plus few other Helping Friends) During the year 2000, did Swapped the ER27 engine from the XT6 into the former grey "Parts Car" and it Became the Project "Loyale 2.7" the Turbo was only a Future Plan that we Had. (That's the origin of my User name) I Painted in Dark Yellow That grey Wagon (with the ER27 engine) and became my "Weekend Warrior" and since that Swap (Year 2000) I've obtained Lots of Answers to my Subaru questions online here, in USMB; I signed up in january 2001, So even the USMB friends helped out to build that monster. Thank You! The ER27 engine Bolts to the EA82 Gearbox, we just used the ER27 Flywheel (which is Light weighted, compared to the EA82 one) but keeping the EA82 Clutch's pressure plate & Disc. The main Problems are: 1. The ER27 is Huge and it only fit on the engine bay Without the A/C condenser, Radiator & Fans; so the Radiator must be Relocated. Also you need to place a (Black) plastic or metallic barrier behind the Front Grille to avoid little Rocks to reach the Spinning engine's belts / timing belts. You'll need to be a Lot inventive to solve the Radiator problem. I did a Pair of Small Radiators interconnected, with twin fans, which Never were enough for the ER27. Other USMB Members who have done the ER27 Swap, done it with a (4"?) Lift to the Body, so the engine Lowers by dropping the Crossmember, letting a Horizontal Radiator + Fan Mounted in the Hood, with Hood Scoop & Vents; so the Radiator goes in the Top of the Engine, somehow. 2. The ER27 engine holds itself to the Front, so you must fabricate a Metallic "Arm" to place the front engine mount. 3. The ER27 is Heavy weighted and the Extended extra weight to the Front does the wagon a Li'l Saggy and could be unstable (makes the Wagon to Underbrake & Understeer) under certain situations at Higher Speeds. I Used the Front Struts from a 4WD Model (Mine was 2WD, the 4WD ones are a Li'l bit Taller) and used Ford Tempo's front Coil Springs in the front of my Wagon, that helped to keep it on level... in fact, leveling that 2.7 wagon was how I invented all the Suspension mods, that you can Read as complete Write-up, with photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ 4. You'll Need to Swap the XT6's ECU and Wire Harness. 5. Many things need to be Modified, like the Engine's Crossmember, Power Steering Pump Retrofit, (The one on the XT6 is electronic & Variable) Custom "Y" Pipe, Fuel Pump Upgrade, etc... The Turbo is doable, it has been Done an ER27T and even an ER27SC ... I saw it on www.xt6.net, also you can find more information and photos, here: ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/Pumped.htm ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/under_pressure.htm But since our ER27 Wagon had some Problems with overheating and Underbraking, we decided to leave it alone until we Solve the Radiator and Handling Problems First ... ... so, No Turbo. My Dad used to drive that Yellow ER27 Wagon "Weekend Warrior" at our Hometown, while I use to drive as my "Everyday Warrior" the White Weberized EA82 Wagon, 'cos I live so Far Away home due to my Job. My ER27 (XT6) Wagon Lasted a Decade, Now is Crashed and Dead. More info here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ After we Lost the Dark Yellow 2.7 wagon, I painted my former white wagon in Lighter Yellow with Black Stripes, and became the "BumbleBeast" (More information and photos following the Link that is on my Signature) That ER27 wagon was always some sort of "Still in Development, Project Car", always unfinished, (mainly Due to the lack of Money and time, you know... ) But it was fully Driveable and it ran great and Nice at Regular Speeds, but if you Drive Faster \ Loaded / in many Uphills, the ER27 engine Overheated easily with those small Radiators ... ... maybe the best idea for such a Retrofit of an ER27 engine onto a Wagon, is This: To swap the whole front clip from the XT6 to the Wagon. Now I Know that an ER27 engine doesn't make "Faster" a Loyale, Like an EJ Engine could do, due to the Extra Weight to Horsepower Ratio... So I really Don't think that an ER27 engine is good idea for a Loyale, due to the troubles of the extra weight going to the Front -brakes and suspension- many adaptations -Lots of Patience, fabrications, time and effort- and the null space that remains in the front of the engine's bay -The radiator does not fit and it is difficult to repair or replace the front of the Engine's Parts- and other issues, Like Losing A/C, plus tires wear faster... So, instead of that ER27, a Lightweight LADM Specs EJ engine is better idea. Those Fit Better, Makes the Radiator and everything fits like Stock; also their Power is just Around the ER27 or even Better ... Plus Easy Service to their Front Parts and no "TOD" noise! ... ... I like the Strong & Durable Subaru EJ22 with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) specs. Those EJ22 did came to Latin America (LADM) with stock Distributor & Carburetor, If I could go back in time... I think that the Subaru EJ Engine is the right way to improve a Loyale, I Hope This information will Help you; please excuse my frankness. If you find this information, useful, let me know by hitting the "Like" button. Kind Regards.

Beside the Body Config (Single Cab, Kin Cab, or Double Cab) and the 2WD or 4WD options, there are two different Mazda B2200 on our Local Market: One came with Diesel engine and the other came with Gasoline engine. So, if it is Diesel, it could be some Damage on the Glow Plugs Control unit... if it is Gasoline, it could be a Worn Relay making false contact, or a Solenoid at the Starter... Kind Regards.

any Ideas?

Not only VolksWagen... I Remember that when I was Child, I Saw a diesel "W9" Engine in an Old Huge Truck, but I Can't remember the Details... Also I Searched on internet and only Found This W9: http://www.atomracing.se/6M.html Maybe someone here could Bring More info about that old one... Kind Regards.

Yes... They usually Run between 190 and 220 Any Pics of your Trike?

Could I Post What the Previous Owner did to my... (Wife's) ...Kia? Here's the Thread: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105337&page=5 Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! Why they do Drilled those Holes? ... I Don't understand the Point... That situation Sucks... I Hope that you'll find a Good Replacement but also I Believe that it could be Fixed if you send it to a Shop for an Aluminium Filling Welding / Resurfacing. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Not sure on the '84 but there Should be a Worn / Unplugged \ Rusted Relay(s) under the Dashboard, Hiding behind the Fuse Box. I Kindly Suggest you to check all the involved connections there, you must Start from the Switch itself and Follow the Wires... Good Luck! Kind Regards.

This is Not the First time I Do an Engine Swap, even when People tells my it Won't Work; Beside the ER27 on my Loyale, I also did a Toyota 22R complete Engine & Manual Transmission Swap onto a Chevrolet Blazer, that was a Gas Hungry V6 Automatic:

Here Both engines together, the Spectra's one is Inside the Car, while the Old sephia's one is Lying on the Floor: I had to use the Sephia's engine Valve Cover, because the Spectra's engine came without the Oil filler Cap, and the Older one does Not match the New one.

These are the Differences between the '00 Sephia and the '03 Spectra intakes & Head ports: A Closer View of How the Sephia's Manifold cover the Spectra's Engine: