Loyale 2.7 Turbo

The Noise if from the Belts Tensioner ball Bearings. You Should Change the Timin' Belt Tensioners along the Belts, 'cos they trend to Last the Same; if you Don't change those Tensioners, or at last their inner Bearings, those could Stop Spinning and that will Kill the Belts for Sure. Kind Regards.

Hi all! My Weberized EA82 Wagon has always had a Good Working Air Conditioner, the only Problem it had, has been to properly engage due to electric problems; so I Had only Changed all its Relays to a Bosch standard ones (as I Explain Here) and beside that, the A/C has been Working good since the Subie was New. I Really Need the A/C, Not for the Hot Weather we have here, at the Caribbean Tropics, but to Safely Drive under our Heavy Thunderstorms we have; I Need it to Keep the Windshield Clear. About a Month ago, the A/C compressor Started to have a Rattle Sound that was only noticeable at idle... Specially if the engine was Just Started (Cold, in the Morning) and that rattle Sound Disappeared when engine was under Normal Driving Conditions. But the Rattle Noise became Louder now... So I Believe the inner Bearings on the A/C Compressor are bad, well, it has more than 26 years of Use. Here in my Country, there's no problem to Find Freon R12, but since it contaminates very Bad the Atmosphere, I Want to Retroft a Newer A/C compresor, capable to Run with R134a. Does anybody already Swapped Successfully the Old A/c Compressor on their EA82 engines? Mine has the Hitachi one. (The Panasonic has Different Belts Layout) So my Main Concern is the Alternator, Because it is held by the A/C Bracket. Any Idea, tip and Picture will be More than Welcome! Kind Regards.

Yes, I Remember Now... and You're Right! I Like them, but I Think those will see Best at the Hood's end of my 69 Mercury Comet Coupe... But Shipping Costs are expensive... Thank you anyway! Kind Regards.

This is a Good Idea to Start. Other could be the Timing, maybe it is a Li'l advanced. Kind Regards.

Thank you, I Really appreciate your Nice Comment. The Plan with my 2.7 Wagon is to Swap there a 2.5 from a Forester, or to do the Usual EJ22 Swap, as Soon as I can, for now the Lack of Enough money Stops me to do that, also I've expend my Money in my Everyday Warrior, my Weberized EA82. Once I Finish, I'll be Ready to take Care of my Weekend Warrior. I'm not Sure What are those Steer Horns ... ... Could you explain, please? ... I Believe I'm Lost in Translation Kind Regards.

Remember: Japanese cars uses milimetric measurements, so the factory size for the main PCV system's Hoses, is the milimetric equivalent to 19/32" (~ 15.1 mm) I used 5/8" in evaporative systems' rated Hose, 5/8" = 20/32" (~ 15.8 mm) with perfect results. 5/8" is easier to find than 19/32" and gives more room for the fumes to move freely. So, I'll refer to all the hoses in inches only. To do the proper reinstall, I needed: 1. Enough 5/8" Hose (more than 4 foot needed). 2. Enough 3/8" Hose (Less than 1 foot needed). 3. One Lightweight Plastic 5/8" Tee with a 3/8" detour opening. (the 3/8" detour is very important, do Not use an equal diameter tee) 4. One 5/8" Lightweight Plastic Elbow to Use at the Air Filter Box, (instead this Heavyweighted brass one I did before) I obtained an Aluminium Elbow for the P.C.V. Valve: (it is Not necessary, could be Directly Connected, but I Like it) 5. Add a New 3/8" Opening, welding a Plug with Brass, to the Air Filter Box Base. I took a Photo of it, to show you the two openings, which are intended for: ► The one on the Left was added by me; is for the "Pressure Relief" detour. ....(This will be explained below) ► The one on the Right, is the straight 5/8" opening, which goes to the above ....described Elbow. (Also this will be explained below. Keep Reading) 6. Enough Clamps, for each Hose's end. 7. New intake Manifold's Gaskets and Bolts. 8. Rubber caps for closing the unused vacuum ports at the intake manifold. I Reinstalled the intake Manifold using the Original Subaru Gaskets. Prior to Install them, I Smeared both sides with a Light Coat of Ultra Cooper Silicone: Forget About Crappy Aftermarket gaskets and you'll Avoid Future Problems. Also I changed the Worn-out Old Screws that held the intake manifold in place, with Newer ones (Found at the Local NAPA), which are Steel reinforced and Rust proof, which are 8 mm X 80 mm X 1.25 Pitch: In my Case I added an (optional) Oil Catch Can. As I wrote in previous posts, and in other threads: My White Wagon isn't White Anymore. I Painted it in Yellow Colour as I explained here, Lighter tone than my Other Yellow Wagon (the Dead 2.7), but this one has Black Stripes, and many mods... Now you will See how all this Stuff ends Together... ► P.C.V. Hoses Goes as Follow: (Remember: these explanations are referenced for the LHD models) First - The Driver's (right) Side Head Opening, goes to the P.C.V. Valve at the intake Manifold, use enough 5/8" Hose, but you must place the "T" with the 3/8" detour for the "Pressure Relief" inbetween, then place enough 3/8" Hose, directly from said "T" detour, to the added 3/8" Opening on the Air Filter's Box base. (In my case, the Oil Catch Can is in that same 5/8" hose Route as well, if you don't need one, use a Direct Hose) Last - The Passenger's (left) Side Head 5/8" Hose goes directly to the Air Filter Box. Please check this Photo below: This setup made by Kanurys on his EA82 engine is the same, except that he didn't installed an Oil Catch Can. ► Vacuum Lines Goes as Follows: Use a Vacuum Hose, from the Front of the Weber's Right Port, to the Advance on the Distributor. (this is a Progressive Vacuum Port) Use the Proper Vacuum Hose, from the intake manifold, to the Brake Booster. Use another Vacuum Hose, from the intake Manifold, to the A/C vacuum accumulator Bottle. Important Notes: ► The accumulator bottle under the Windshield, at the engine bay, behind the Passenger's side strut Tower (on LHD Models) is used to provide stable vacuum for the A/C buttons on the Dashboard and also for engaging the 4WD mode on the models equiped with Push-Button transmission. So, if your subie doesn't have that kind of Transmission nor A/C, you can simply omit to connect that third vacuum line. ► The E.G.R. system is optional, if you want to run it, you'll need to hook a fourth vacuum line, as described previously in this writeup, on the post number 9 above. ► Don't forget to cap Close all the unused ports at the intake manifold!

► The Hoses Mess: the P.C.V. - the A.S.V. - and the E.G.R. Systems. These system were Not available on all the markets where Subaru sold their EA engined cars, only where such system were legally required / mandatory. - A.S.V. = "Air Suction Valve" The Purpose of the A.S.V. system is to put some fresh air onto the Exhaust system, to aid to the Catalytic Converter to work as it Should; the two Small Black Boxes on it (one per side of the Engine), are intended for Noise reduction, from the exhaust system's noises. I kindly suggest you to get Rid completely of the A.S.V. system; there will not be any harmful effects from doing that, and the engine will remain quiet if you block everything off, correctly. The subject has been covered several times on the Forums; personally I prefer to cut and weld shut off the pipes, also there's the "Nickel" and the "Quarter" tricks... it doesn't matter how you erase that system, as long as it is properly done; you can read some good ideas from other USMB members regarding the subject, ~► Here. - E.G.R. = "Exhaust Gases Recirculation" The purpose of this system, is to put part of the Exhaust Gases, onto the Air / Fuel Mixture at the Intake Manifold under certain acceleration, but the Design of this E.G.R. system for the EA82 engines, has proven to be inefficient and even Harmful for the Engine's health, affecting its performance and longevity. Also the Subaru Engineers Sealed its Passage on the redesigned Third Gen EA82 Heads; by the way, you can see Pictures that will let you differentiate between the Three (3) different generations of EA82 Heads, ~► Here. I kindly suggest you to get Rid completely of the E.G.R. system, unless it is legally required in your area to pass emissions. In case you want to use the E.G.R. system: You only need to attach a 3/16" vacuum hose, from the E.G.R.'s Valve at the intake manifold, to the vacuum port that is located in the Front-Left of the Weber Carburetor; which is a port that starts to "Suck" only when the Secondary -high- Stage of the carburetor, is Open; which is the best moment to let-in, the Exhaust gases. ► Important Note: The other vacuum port at the front of the Weber carburetor, the Front-Right, is Progressive, and is intended to be used for the Vacuum Advance at the Distributor. In case you want to get rid of the E.G.R. system, you have two choices: Lazy -popular- solution: To unplug the E.G.R. Valve's Vacuum port and cap close the suction port on the carb for it. What I Did: To Remove the E.G.R. valve from the intake along its pipe and block off their openings. ​You can close 'em with Aluminium welding or use custom-made pieces of sheet metal as blocking plates, screwed in their places with silicone gasket-maker. Also you'll need to block off close the pipe that comes from the head. - P.C.V. = is the "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" This is the only one that is Really, Really Needed for the engine, So you need to properly Understand the reason why the P.C.V. system exists and how it Works: Why? ... ... The engine needs an air Flow in and out of the Crankcase, not only to facilitate the crank's spin movement and release the pressure of the internals, but the purpose of this system, is mainly to take the harmful acid vapors Outside from the engine's internals, by routing those harmful acid vapors thru the P.C.V. valve at the intake Manifold, making possible that said vapors could be sucked by vacuum and Burned along the Air / Fuel Mixture on the Cylinders during their normal cycles. This is How it Flows: To Coordinate the air flow direction with the Crank spin, the Passenger's side (R) Head does "Suck" Fresh air, while the Driver's Side (L) Head "Expels" that air along the Harmful Vapors. All that through the 5/8" Openings on the Top of Each head. The Impulse that circulates that air, comes from the intake manifold's Vacuum, thru the P.C.V. Valve. So, very Basically you'll need: First: To plug a 5/8" Hose from the Passenger's Side (R) head opening, to the Air Filter Box, so it can Breathe Fresh, Filtered Air for the system. This side has the incoming air. Second: To plug another 5/8" Hose from the Driver's Side (L) head opening, to the P.C.V. Valve at the intake manifold, so its vacuum will move the air and take out the Harmful vapors to get Burned in the Cylinders. This side has the Outgoing Vapors. Warning! ... ... Said P.C.V. Setup needs a "Presure Relief Detour" on that second hose, to Relieve the Suction from the P.C.V.'s Valve, in order to Avoid sucking oil out of the valve cover. To do So, you just Need to use a 5/8" Detour "T" but with one Size Smaller (3/8") on the Driver's Side (L) Hose and route that Smaller opening to a Filtered Fresh air Source; preferably at the Air Filter Box. (but it could go to an independent air filter as well) This very Clear Picture Belongs to Kanurys from his EA82: Please, note the Detour "T" placed right after the P.C.V. Valve at the intake manifold and how its detour is routed to a new (added) small opening at the Air Filter Box's Base. Detailed explanation of the Connections at the P.C.V. system: The Smaller diameter detour, placed with a 3/8" out "T" on the Driver's side, is intended to avoid High pressure "Sucking" from the P.C.V. valve, and thus means to prevent oil to getting sucked and sent to the intake manifold, especially under hard acceleration, which could lead to have oil getting burned on the mixture at the cylinders, creating white smoke clouds, dirty sparkplugs, etc... is like having the "Worn Engine" symptoms without a worn engine. It is better to use a smaller (maximum of 3/8"~ minimum of 5/16") diameter detour hose, plugged Directly to the air filter's box, because: ♪ If you use a 5/8" detour (same Diameter as the rest), the P.C.V. valve most likely will suck fresh air thru it (Shorter travel), instead the Driver's side Head, and the whole P.C.V. setup will not make any sense, turning that system onto a completely Useless mess of hoses; because in that case, very few to none crankcase fumes will go to the intake manifold thru the P.C.V. valve, to get burnt. This equals to install small air filters on each head's opening and the P.C.V. valve and leaving those open... such setup will turn the P.C.V. system completely Useless for sure. ♫ That smaller diameter detour shall be routed Directly to a fresh filtered air source, Never to the Other Head's Hose; in order to prevent a recirculating phenomenon where both sides moves air from each other and a very small to none amount of Harmful vapors goes to the intake to get burned. Additional info: In my Case, My EA82 engine has over 300 K Miles of Hard, Rude Driving; Mainly off-road on (My Li'l Country) Honduras So it has a Problem: it trend to blow-by some oil with the outgoing Harmful Vapors thru the Driver's Side 5/8" Hose. So in my case, I decided to place an Oil Catch Can to Separate that Oil from the Fumes, between the Driver's side Head Hose (L) and the P.C.V. Valve, I obtained this one: Let me emphasize that Once the P.C.V. System is Properly set, and the three (3) Needed vacuum lines are in place, as I will detail how to, on the Next post; you could Get Rid of Everything Else on the Vacuum Hoses mess, including the E.G.R. system, the A.S.V. System, its Hoses and the two small Black Boxes, which are one per side of the Engine. (Deleting the A.S.V. system includes to Block the Exhaust openings.) You won't believe the large amount of useless crappy stuff I Removed from the Engine's Bay, It ended as a Huge Box full, including the Small metallic vacuum lines' set, the Thermo-Vacuum Switch, the Carbon Canister, all the "Spaghetti" of Hoses, the E.G.R. System, the A/C accelerator Actuator, Sensors, wirings, the A.S.V. system, Hoses, the Craptachi Carb, the old Air Filter Box, etc... Also my "BumbleBeast" runs without Both Catalytic Converters, on a free flow exhaust as you can see in post Nº 7 above.

Putting all Together The E.M.P.I. Rebuild Kit that I Obtained locally, had the Accelerator Pump's Diaphragm plus all the Gaskets and a Temperature isolating ⅛" Phenolic Spacer, which is used as a Sandwich Between two Gaskets; so the Carb will Run Cooler I Kindly suggest you to smear a thin layer of Shellac on both sides of each gasket, in order to avoid having future vacuum leaks. This is How the Whole thing Looked Like, just before reinstall it on the EA82 engine: The Three Fuel Tank's Lines ► The 5/16" is the main Fuel supply line, Delivers the Fuel to the Carburetor. ► The 1/4" is the Tank's Vent Line... ► The 3/16" is Fuel Return line, from the Carburetor to the Tank. (Yes, the Return line on EA82 Carbureted models has a small diameter but is enough) On my first Weber install, a decade ago, I only hooked the main 5/16 line to the carb, then I cap closed the return using a screw, and I left the vent line open, with a short 1/4 hose, but I attached one of those mini air filters to it's end, in order to prevent debris to getting into the vent line... ...those two unused lines hanged next to the Brake's Booster, hiding there and the Subie worked Flawlessly like that for a Decade. When I obtained a much newer Weber carburetor, (as I told in post number 3 above), I decided to remove the straight fuel inlet fitting from the Weber carb, and place there the "Y" shaped fuel inlet fitting from my old craptachi carb, which has an Straight 5/16 inlet, and also an smaller 3/16 return line built in; in order to reconnect the closed Return line to the fuel tank; with the idea of helping the Weber's Float to do easier its Job, also it helps the Fuel Pump. The thread's size and pitch are equal between the Weber and the craptachi Carburetors. I used a couple of turns of Teflon (P.T.F.E.) Tape, on the fitting's thread, to avoid fuel leakage, the Hitachi carb's "Y" Fitting must be screwed Carefully to the Weber carb's base, otherwise, the weber's Base could break: Be Careful to not overtight it! WARNING! Closing the Return and the Vent Lines that comes from the Fuel Tank, or Hooking a T between them is a Dreadful idea; it will made a strong pressure buildup on the Tank and its lines / Hoses and in my own humble opinion, could be Dangerous, especially during hot weather days. The Fuel Lines' Differences: Carbureted EA82 Vs EFi EA82 You must be Aware of this: On the Carbureted EA82's, the Main Fuel delivery line (5/16") comes alone to the engine's bay, from above the Frame Rail, down under the Master Cylinder; and the Vent and Return lines (1/4" and 3/16") comes together, above the Brake's Booster. While on the EFi EA82 counterparts; the Main Fuel delivery line and the Vent line (5/16" and 1/4"), comes together above the brake's Booster, while the Return line comes alone, down, from above the frame rail, and has an increased diameter than the Carbureted Models. That information will help those who wants to install a Carbureted EA82 on a Body that came from factory with an EFi EA82 or Viceversa. Fuel Pumps and Pressure: The book "Weber Carburetors" by Pat Braden, notes on page 22: "In general, Webers should receive a maximum fuel pressure of 3.5 psi" You must consider that Excessive pressure will keep the needle valve in the float bowl from closing properly, and it will Flood the carburetor. The stock fuel Pump on Carbureted Subaru EA82's, have 5/16" in and out fittings, and delivers around 2 to 3 PSi; so, they're perfect for these Webers. In case you don't have the original Subaru fuel pump, or if you are retrofitting a carbureted EA82 on a previously EFi body which still has its EFi fuel pump, I recommend to obtain a Subaru Original fuel pump but for Carbureted EA82's. Do Not use the EFi fuel Pumps! However, if you can not find another, original Subaru fuel pump, then you should obtain another electric fuel Pump, whose fittings are both 5/16" and delivers no more than 4 PSi. I know that using the "Y" inlet fitting on the Carburetor + a properly hooked Feed & Return lines, will take care of the Excessive Fuel, but if the electric fuel Pump that you obtain, has more than 4 PSi, I kindly suggest you to obtain an in-line Fuel Pressure Regulator letting it to keep the pressure under 4 PSi. There are many Fuel Pressure Regulators on the aftermarket stores, I've seen ~► This one, being used in Weber swaps, on other cars. IMPORTANT NOTES: ► The fuel pump doesn't run forever with the ignition key in "ON" position, the fuel pump only runs for few seconds and then Quits if the engine is not running; waiting for the signal of the running engine, to continue pumping. ► If the Stock fuel pump for a carbureted EA82's goes Bad, you can substitute it with almost any aftermarket unit that can be installed outside the Tank, with 5/16" fittings; it only has to deliver similar pressure (between 2 to 4 PSi). ► you might consider to install an in-line 5/16" fuel Check valve like this: Which will help to ease starting the engine after several days of not being used, because it keeps fuel on the line, preventing the fuel from going back to the Tank. It should be installed after the Fuel Pump. ► There is a small Fuel Filter hiding underneath the Base for the fuel inlet, built-in the Weber Carb, it requires to be Cleansed every time you remove your Weber for a Cleanup; it is often bypassed during such Cleansing Process. ► The fuel cutoff Solenoid doesn't come in Standard Webers. It is an "Extra" that you could ask and / or obtain later, because it is easy to add on. ► If the Weber Carburetor you obtain, has "Manual" choke instead of the Automatic "Electric choke", remember that Subaru sold the second (EA81) and Third (EA82) generations of the Subaru Leone, with Manual Choke (Mainly outside the USA), so the Dashboards already have provisions to install the Manual Choke's Cable; but you will need to obtain the Lever, or be creative retrofitting the lever from other car. In the Photo below, I show you where the choke's Lever came, on the Third gen (EA82) Subaru Leone: The brand / Quality of the products you choose, depends on you \ how much you want to spend.

Additional information: The exhaust system and ignition coil Upgrades, Plus ignition timing and more... Prior to continue to the rest of the installation procedures, let me tell you that the Weber Carburetor Swap, somehow Frees the air / fuel mixture flow at the intake, and in order to gain more performance from this Swap, you'll need to free the exhaust flow equally, and also you'll need to increase the Spark at the combustion chambers as well, in order to obtain the maximum advantages from the Weber Carburetor Swap, otherwise you'll gain limited advantages, from the carburetor only. ► Exhaust System: The stock one is restrictictive on the Subaru, however, you must be aware that the engine does Not need any "Backpressure", it is a pretty usual confusion; what it really needs, is to join the Left head's exhaust to the Right head's exhaust, in a "Y" shaped pipe (other designs, such as Unequal Lenght Headers, works as well) in order to gain the proper Scavenging effect. The exhaust system needs Scavenging, not Backpressure; see this documentation for further information on the Subject: ~► http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S4_Back.html ~► http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/exhaustbackpressure.html To make a Free Flow Exhaust with the proper scavenging for the EA82 engine, (Also suitable for the EA81 engine as well), we used 2" Ø pipes on all the exhaust system, removed the primary Catalytic converter (or pre cat) which is inside the junction where both heads' exhausts, meets; we Joined both together in a simple "Y" and then we removed the Secondary Catalytic converter, which was located in the pipe between said junction and the Muffler; so now the Pipe goes straight from the "Y" to a Custom built "Free Flow" Muffler. Closer View of the Muffler: That Exhaust is not Loud, in fact I hear more intake's induction noise with the Weber carb under acceleration. ► Ignition Coil: As stated above, the increased air / fuel mixture will need an increased Spark at the Combustion Chambers, in order to burn the mixture in a Better way, which increases efficiency and gains a little more throttle response, while keeps cleaner the emissions and exhaust pipes. Important Note: Different ignition coils does have different Ohms of Resistance or Ω Value, so if the aftermarket coil has much different Ω value, comparing to the stock ignition coil, it could kill the Ignition module inside the distributor, not due to the increased coil's power output; the Risk is because of the increased effort done by the ignition Module thru its two wires sent to the Coil, to make that Coil to work, due to its increased Ω resistance. Basic information regarding Distributors on Carbureted EA82 Subaru Engines: The Carbureted EA82 engines coupled from factory to 2WD transmissions, came with Nippon-Denso distributors. While the Carbureted EA82 engines, coupled from factory to 4WD transmissions, came with Hitachi distributors... Nippon-Denso units have a faster advance curve than the Hitachi counterparts, Also, Nippon-Densos allows you to use an aftermarket ignition coil with average resistance values; while the Hitachis requires their own ignition coil, because going too low or too high in resistance values on the coil, gets a burnt ignition module, faster. Ignition module is what the distributor has inside, instead on points. Furthermore: Nippon-Denso units are reliable and simplistic, easy to service distributors, they uses an easy clip-on by hand cap and the rotor goes pushed down also by hand only; while the Hitachi counterparts has lousy screws, specially the infamous rotor screw which is the culprit of many horror stories of people being left stranded in the midle of nowhere by a loose rotor screw. I preffer Nippon-Densos any day, in my own humble opinion, they're way far better for many reasons. So, my Weberized EA82 Subaru "BumbleBeast" has a Nippon-Denso Distributor, coupled with a High Vibration Accel Superstock 8140 ignition coil (Made in USA) filled with Epoxy instead of Oil, which is supposed to be capable of providing a 45,000 Volts output, which is around Twice than the stock ignition coil's output while keeping resistance values close to stock specs; and the Nippon Denso Distributor has been working great with it since a Decade ago. The Accel Superstock 8140 High Vibration (Made in USA) Coil has the Following Values: And the Stock Nippon Denso distributor's ignition Coil, has almost the same values: Since the Accel's coil Resistance Ω Values are Closer to the Stock Coil's Resistance Ω Values, there has never been a problem with that setup. ► Timing: The Carbureted versions of the EA82 engine, have an under hood sticker that states that their ignition timing, must be set @ 8º with a +/- 2º variations; while their EFi EA82 counterparts, the under hood sticker states 20º with same +/- 2º variation; however, I found that Weberized EA82's tend to Perform much better, with timing set @ around 20º like their EFi counterparts. Otherwise if timing is kept ~ 8º, the overall performance feels pretty dull... Edit: with an electronic timing gun, I found that the best overall performance on this setup, is gained with ignition timing set to 15º without doubt, but using the Nippon-Denso Distributor. Now, lets continue with this Weber Carburetor Swap!

► Second Step: Since I Changed the Heads on my EA82 engine (There are three generations of EA82 Heads, see ~► Here) the New Heads came Without EGR Passages. (it is Known that the EA82 had a EGR Design Flaw, after all, the EA82 was originally intended to be a ~► 2.0L engine) The EGR Stuff isn't Needed anymore. So I Asked them at the Shop, to Close Weld with Aluminium Filling, the EGR Valve place, the EGR Pipe and a unused Vacuum Port that was aside the P.C.V. valve inlet. When it came from the Aluminium Welding, Once again I Washed the intake manifold Throughly with Household Detergent, in order to remove any debris. Here you have a Closer View of the Aluminium Welding, Note: There's No Hot Water inlet anymore! ► Third Step: (optional) I Checked the Aluminium Fillings and I Noticed Very tiny Holes that made me Think if one of those could Lead to a Vacuum Leak... So in order of have peace of mind, I smeared completely all the Aluminium fillings and weldings, with the Strongest "Cold Welding Compound" I could find, in order to Completely Seal the intake, I used 4 minutes J.B. Weld of industrial grade; I had the idea of painting the intake after everything was done, but I dismissed the idea, because usually the paintings on engine parts, becomes dirty and looks even worse... so I left it, unpainted. This step of smearing J.B. Weld over the aluminium fillings, is Not necessary, But gives me Peace of Mind, somehow

Intake Manifold's Modifications After that many Years of Driving my Subie with the Weber, I Know that I'll Never go Back to the lousy Hitachi feedback carburetor Anymore. I'm More than Satisfied with the awesome simplicity and reliability of the Weber Carburetor, its increased, faster response and Boxer Rumble's Roar it makes ... ... So I Decided to make my Swap job, more "Permanent" and stronger. Here I Will Explain some Modifications that I did to the EA82 engine's intake manifold, but I Clarify that some of these mods are Not Necessary, however, I did them to make things Stronger and get Rid of Possible Future Failure points. Right after obtaining my Brand New Trans-Dapt 2107 adapter, I Removed the intake Manifold and the Weber Carb. Also the old and Damaged Twin plates' adapter and the Gaskets it had in between. The Gasket under the First plate, held good there closing the Water Passage intended for the Old Craptachi Carb, but it had five years Years in place, working hard, and was About to Fail, Even if I have closed the Water Hoses as you can see: Modifications' Steps and more Details: ► First Step: I Wanted to Remove and Completely Erase those Unused Water Passages, So I Took the intake Manifold to a Professional Shop, in order to Cut the Water inlet pipe, and Permanently Fill it, with Aluminium Welding of the Same Quality as the intake, also to Fill the Opening (hole) and the Water Passage. The intake manifold is made of good quality Aluminium; I Asked them to Bolt on the Trans-Dapt 2107 Adapter, (which is made of same good quality Aluminium), Directly to the intake manifold, without Gasket and then Completely Weld it to the intake with (same good quality) Aluminium. So the adapter is not only Held in place by the Bolts, but completely Welded with Aluminium; Making it to be Solid, One-Piece with the intake manifold itself; also doing that does eliminates permanently the Need of a Gasket between the intake manifold and the adapter plate, so it also erases a Future Gasket Fail Problem, or a vacuum leak / coolant leak problem. Also I asked them to Close the hot Water Outlet passage, that came from the Heather pipe, with Permanent Brass Welding.

After that many Years of Driving my Subie with the Weber Carb, I have removed it for Cleansing few Times. The First time was due to an "Error" done by a friend who was "Helping" me to do a Paint Job, he "Mistakenly" poured Paint Thinner in the Carb and somehow melted the Acceleretor Pump's Diaphragm: I Found one Brand New locally, on a E.M.P.I. Rebuild Kit. I've Took out the Weber and Deeply Cleaned it: _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ EA82 Weber Carburetor Jettings (I'll use simple mathematics: I don't want to give Scientifically accurate and detailed calculations here, it is not necessary) The Original Hitachi Carb that came Stock on my Subie (Mine is 1985 California -Yes, USA- Version) came Stock Jetted as Follows: 116 in Low -primary- Stage and 160 in High -secondary- Stage, for a Grand Total of 276. My New Weber Carb which Came in the K-731 Kit Already Jetted for the EA82, came with 140 in Both Low -primary- Stage and 140 in High -secondary- Stage ... the Weber Carb's Grand Total is 280, Very close to the Stock Hitachi's Grand Total. Since I did the Weber Carb Swap in my Subie, I Noticed that the Lower Range RPM's had an increased Torque, the engine developed an overall faster acceleration, but the High Range RPM's Behaviour seems to be Almost Equal to the Stock Hitachi Carb behaviour: both carbs gave the Same Feeling at Higher Rpm's. So, Thinking about the Increased Air Bleeding Capabilities & Size of the Weber Carb, also thinking about the 140 / 140 Jets and the Feeling it Gave in Both Stages, I Realized that the People at Redline-Weber Sets their Carbs for Applications at the Average Use, Because the Weber Carb's Grand Total of 280 is Very close to the Hitachi Carb's Grand Total of 276 ... Despite that the Weber is Really Bigger and more capable... People at Redline-Weber did increased the Low -primary- stage jetting but they decreased the high -secondary- stage jetting, comparing to the stock Hitachi Carb's jettings; and that explains somehow the increased low end torque given by the Weber Carb as it came jetted... So, I wanted to gain the Same improvement found in the Low -primary- stage, on the High -secondary- stage too. So, I Re-Jetted my Weber First I tried with Many Different Jettings and did Test Drives in Many Different Situations and circumstances, in Order to Get the Best Performance Without Getting the Mixture too Rich or Flooding, nor letting my Subie to Swallow more Gas unnecessary. After All that Weekend's Tests, I Left the Weber's Low Stage as it Came: 140 without Modifications as it already develops the Best performance in Low -primary- stage. While a small Performance gain at the High -secondary- Stage was obtained with 162 ... ... So Now my Subie has 140 on Low -Primary- Stage and 162 on High -Secondary- Stage, for a grand total of 302. comparing it to the 276 of the Stock Craptachi Carb... it only increased 26 points. Seems like the Weber's Air Bleedings already came set to Handle the increased amount of Mixture very Well... but if I Drive with Full Pressed Gas Pedal it will Use a Li'l Bit more Gas than Before. Important Note: being Honest, I believe that these 32/36 progressive Weber carburetors, already performs great with both stages being @ 140, and it is really Not necessary to increase the size of the Jets at all; in fact I went back to 140 / 140 when I switched to a Newer Weber carburetor, as I explained in the post Nº 3 above. Distributor's Vacuum Advance I Changed the Distribuitor's dual port Vacuum advance, for a Single Port unit: it works much Better with the Weber's single vacuum port for distribuitor's advance. In the Photo below you can see the removed two port vacuum advance, and the Box with the Part Number of the Single Port vacuum advance, which fit perfectly my "Nippon-Denso" EA82 Distributor. Both Vacuum Advance units were fitted on the NIPPON-DENSO Distributor, found on the 2WD (FWD) EA82 carbureted engined subarus; as far as I know, those aren't intended for the Hitachi Distributors found on the 4WD (AWD) Carbureted EA82's but these Might fit, I have never tried them on the Hitachi Distributors. I prefer the Nippon-Denso distributors, because they has a faster acceleration curve than the Hitachi counterparts, also Nippon-Densos doesn't have the lousy screw to hold the rotor in place, that if gets loose, might leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere; you can swap distributors, is pretty easy, and Nippon-Densos are easier to work with. Sparkplugs The best ones for the EA82 engine, are the BPR6EY11 ones, made by NGK which by the way, comes in Light Reddish Colour, they're Not Blackening at all with the Weber swap.

Another Problems ... and more Solutions! A simple problem occurs only when you Switch from the thin and low, lousy adapter plates, to that thicker and taller, Single Plate Adapter; Because it Raises Up the Weber Carb: you won't be able to continue using the 2½" tall Air Filter Element anymore, Because now it will Rub the Hood; Unless your Subie has installed a Lift kit that Dropped the Engine's Crossmember 1½" This is the 2½" tall Air Filter Element, I can use it because my EA82 "BumbleBeast" Wagon, is Lifted The Solution for unlifted Subarus: To Switch to the Shorter 1¾" tall Air Filter element. Both are "Standard" Air Filters for the Weber Carbs and are easy to Find, usually the Taller one is Widely used in Weber Swaps while the Shorter one is Widely used in VW Bugs, the Subaru EA81 / EA71 engined Vehicles, etc... UPDATE: After a Decade using my 32/36 Weber carburetor without any issue nor complains, I obtained another Weber Carburetor by mere Coincidence, the Story is told: ~► Here, this Weber Carburetor is identical to my old one, but is a Decade Newer and came with Choke, and also the fuel flow cutoff Solenoid, which is commonly known as the "Anti-Dieseling" Solenoid. The Motivation I had to change my good ol' Weber, was only to be completely Sure that the Choke fits without modifications, and now I can assure this to you: To use the thicker and taller, single plate adapter, Resolves this issues: Resolves the lack of space for the Choke assembly. Resolves the impacting screws' issue. Relieves the forced Angle for the tool during screwing and unscrewing the Bolts. and Makes Easier this Retrofitting, for sure... Let me show you, the Clearance between the Choke and Power Steering Pump's Tank: The clearance is Enough, however you can hit the Metal reservoir at the Power Steering Pump, in order to get More Clearance as well; also you can see how easier is to reach now, the Mounting Screws. That clearance is gained not only by the Taller adapter Plate, but also, using the ⅛" Plastic, temperature insulator along the gaskets, between the Weber Carburetor's Base and the Adaptor Plate's top. Such plastic temperature insulator, is pictured below in post Nº 8 so, keep scrolling! Important Note: The only downside of having a much taller and thicker, single Plate adaptor, is that you can Not keep the accelerator actuator for the Air Conditioner, because now the accelerator's cable plate on the carburetor, is raised too high to be reached properly by the vacuum actuator that is bolted to the intake manifold. Frankly, this actuator is Not really "Necessary" at all: I still have a good working A/C system on my Subie, and despite that the RPM's goes too Low at idle with A/C on, the engine never dies. But if you want to keep the A/C system's Accelerator Actuator working, you'll need to raise the vacuum actuator from its mounting base at the intake manifold; enough to reach the now taller position of the Carburetor's accelerator cable plate. In my case, I removed the Actuator, the metal plate and all the related stuff and vacuum hoses, to have an even Cleaner engine's bay.

A Much Better Adapter Plate Several years have already passed since my Weber Swap and I've Learned Lots of Things from my Experience that I want to Share Here. First of All, the K-731 Kit is a Great kit but the Two Plate Adapter Sucks! ... ... I Understand that they wanted to Keep the Whole kit, cheap; but by using that low two-plate adaptor, three problems happens. I already explained the first two in the post above, but let me summarize: ► First: You need to redrill and redo bigger the intake manifold's threads for the first plate. ► Second: The Choke had the above described problem with the Power Steering equiped Models: Not only the Whole Choke Hits the Rear of the Power Steerin' Pump, but even removing the choke, its base Hits one of that Pump's Screws. As I wrote, I had to Cut that Screw's Head, to allow the Weber Carb to Completely Sit flat as it should, on that (lousy) two plate Adaptor. And I Had to Completely remove the Choke. (Thanks God it isn't Needed here at the Caribbean Tropics) I've sent it Brand New, including the Butterflies and Hardware to a Great Friend and USMB Member in Australia. ► Third: Only time and usage taught me that, if you Need to take out the Weber Carb to do a Cleanup, etc, there's an enormous chance that This is Going to Happen: After some years of Use, that happened to my thin, Two Plate adapter; even if I removed the Carb Carefully and only a couple of times before; this breakage is due to the Angle of the Tool, forcing to Remove the Nut at that Point behind the Power Steering Pump's reservoir, it makes much effort to the Weak, thin aluminium of that Plate because the Carb sits too Low, with that lousy adapter's plates. So, I Searched locally at all the aftermarket stores in my area, and also all across the internet, to find a Way Better Adapter to Fit the Weber 32/36 carburetor to the EA82 engine's intake manifold; and I found it! ... ... it was Originally Designed to be used on certain Datsun Vehicles that came factory with a 1600 engine, which featured a Hitachi Carburetor, that has the Same measurements on the Mounting Base (identical size) as the factory Subaru Hitachi Carburetor. The Adapter that I found, is Made by "Trans-Dapt" Model Nº 2107 and is a Strong and Thick, Single Plate adapter; as you can see below: I Obtained it at amazon.com, Here you can see it when it Came by Mail: And here you can see the Old Two-Plate (broken) Adapter Vs the New Single Plate Adapter: The New Single Plate Adapter is much Taller and Thicker than the Double Plate older one, So it Solves the Problem of the impacting Screws / Choke while it Raises Up the Base to install the Weber Carb. That also makes an Easier Reach to the Screws that Holds the Carb, in case you want to Remove it for Servicing / Cleanup, so no more Forcing angle tool anymore. Please see detailed information and a photo regarding this, on the Post Nº 3 Below. The Trans-Dapt 2107 adapter Directly Bolts in the EA82's intake Manifold without any Problem, you can use either the Original Subaru Thin Screws or the thicker diameter ones, but is Better idea to Bolt it Using the Thicker Screws as I Explained above. Important Note: None of the Adapter Plates I show in this writeup, will fit on the EA81 nor any other Subaru Engine's intake manifold, those are specific for the EA82 engine only, however, you can "adapt" the Trans-Dapt 2107, to the older engine's intake manifolds, by using Aluminium Welding. Continue reading...

Finally: I Fixed the Age Old e-Brake Problem with my Wagon http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101883&page=7

Sounds like a Dirty Carb to me... Could I Ask When was the Last time you Took it Out to Deep Cleansing? if you Haven't done that, you Might Try the Carb Cleaner Spray Procedure First, here is a Link to a Basic Tune-up & Carb Cleansing Procedure that Might Help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=987097&postcount=2 Kind Regards.

I Did Mine of Sheet Metal and Covered with FiberGlass, then Sanded & Painted it, the Idea was to Let the Weber Scream out ... ... Louder!!! Click on my Avatar and you'll See a Picture on my Weberized Wagon's Album; so you'll see the Small Hood Scoop I Did. Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! An Easy way to have a Turbo EA81 that didn't came Factory, is to use one EA81 done by SUB4 Engines: But is Very Expensive.

I'm really Glad that finally I got Rid from the worn out Front e-Brake system. The Brakes feels very Good & Strong now, somehow way better than Before. Now, the plan is to retrofit some Rear e-Brake system that I've been planning. Kind Regards.

This is How All the Calipers Looked Like when they where "Just Painted" Under the Sun. Not Only the Front ones but the Rear ones got Brand New Seals, etc...

I Used This Paint: Supposed to Deal with High Temps

So, This is How the Caliper Looks after the "Close the e-Brake Passages" Job was Done and was Freshly Painted. I Closed them Using a Round, almost Flat Bolt from the inside to the Outside, then Cutted it and Safely Welded the Entire Outside Area.

The Solution: I Completely Erased the e-Brake!

Finally, After Many Many Tries to make that Horrid e-Brake System to Properly Work once again, including almost all New Parts; the Sticky e-Brake Pistons Problem persisted... So, I was Really Tired to Deal with That, Also the Worn e-Brake System leads to twist the mini O-Rings on the Back of the Caliper, making Brake Fluid Leaks... So I Decided to Totally get Rid of that Faulty e-Brake System and Make my Wagon Safer.

Even the Pistons!