Loyale 2.7 Turbo

with this Setup I Keep all the Hoses, but could I Ask which... ...one is that 1/4" Line? Kind Regards.

I hava a free account at the Photobucket Website, there you can Upload as many Photos as you want, then just Copy the ones you wanna show and Paste them in a Post... I use that since 2005 and they have edition tools for your Pics for free too. Kind Regards.

No, the Main Hoses on the PCV System are: a 5/8" Hose Coming from the Left Head. a 5/8" Hose Coming from the Right Head. a 5/8" Hose Coming from the PCV from the Intake Manyfold's Back. the Air Filter's Box Opening at the Carb. So, I Hooked both Heads (Nº1 and Nº2) onto one "T" that leaves one unused opening in that "T" I Hooked the PCV Valve (Nº3) and the Air Filter Box (Nº4) to another "T" which leaves an unused Opening too there. Then I Hooked Both remaining Openings in Both "T" Together. See: it is Easier with a 5/8" angled Coupler at 90º for the PCV: I Use this At the Air Filer Box: And my Subie Runs like a Champ since the Weber Swap in early 2006. I Used two "T" Because both Heads blow a Li'l amount of oil and I Plannedto add an Oil Catch can between them. But if your subie doesn't have that problem, I Kindly suggest you to use a "+" for easier Hook up. I Did another Weber Swap in a Friend's Subie using this: I Hope this can Help. Kind regards.

I Posted in This Thread about the New Subies: ~► http://http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/92163-older-generation-becoming-historic/ in Post Nº 24, This:

You Mean Dual Range Automatics? ... I haven't seen them in Person, but as Far as I Know, they Existed on the GT and RX-II Models of the EA82. Here in my Country, around 85% of Cars are Manuals, here people don't like too much automatics ... almost All the Automatics here came from the USA. See this Thread for More info: ~► http://http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/98480-need-advice-legacy-wagon/ Kind Regards.

Didn't anything Special to my Wagons, but Last Weekend we got Late Year's Cold Rain... with Mud everywhere; so I Took my Weekend Warrior and Family to a muddy Ride next to a Nice River...

if its well Tuned and it Has the Big Venturis, it will Run very Fine for Sure.

Backwards is used to Avoid the Choke to hit the Power Steering's Pump on those Models equiped with that Option. Beside some Work on the Accelerator cable and Hoses, it works normally... But the 5/8" hoses that comes from the PCV system / Heads are unplugged in the Shown Photos... OK, the Hoses goes like This: a "T" mates Both heads' Hoses and another "T" Mates the remain opening from the First "T" and the PCV Valve on the intake Manyfold's Back. all "T" are 5/8" Then the Remaining opening goes to the Air Filter Box. Kind Regards.

Latin American Domestic Market (LADM) Also: ... ... we have it! I Believe that the Only thing which Stops Subaru to take those Diesel Boxers to the USA Market, is the Emmissions Laws against air Pollution... But I Think that Subaru Must be Workin' in Something to fix That... Or those will Remain Outside USA like the Carbureted EJ Engines and the EJ Dual Range Transmissions we have? Kind Regards.

Let me Tell you that... ...if the Glovebox door which have dents, is Metallic and you Want to Keep the Stock Looking, I Kindly Suggest you to Fill the Dent with Body Filler and then it could be Treated just like the Outer Body Parts: Sandpaper, then Primer and Paint. Also you can make a Wooden custom part to fit the Tachometer where is the Speaker Spot. Painted as the Rest of the Dash it will Look Somehow like Stock. Kind Regards.

If they're Subaru, then They are Good... But if they're made in the 1970's Decade, their Soldering was made with Rosin core Welding compound, which might loose their adherence in certain rare cases where they're stored in Humid places. I Know that sounds weird but is a possibility: a Loose internal Wire makes a Hot Spot inside the Fuse, depending on the Wire's Load. So Basically, I'm Writing that maybe those Fuses are Old... but if You're Sure that they are not the Culprit, then there are Something Overloading the Circuit. Kind Regards.

Ha Ha! ... ... I Can't Believe any car could make Such Noise! ... LOL! Or the Clutch pedal was Released like This: a Girl I Knew Long time Ago gave me a Ride to the University and She drove like This: She Accelerates the Car and just Removed its High Heeled Pump Shoe to one Side of the Pedal, so the Pedal, which was completely down to the floor, came "Pop Up" by its own Pressure... you can imagine the Screaming tyres of that civic... (Plus my Scary Face) ...she also used the Brake pedal in the Very Last Moment! ... ... That Civic had damaged the Fasten Belt, so I was hoping to find some sort of Rope to tie myself to the Seat...

Welcome Back! and your home Remodel Project Sounds very Big & Nice... Could you Post Pictures? Me Too! ... Kind Regards.

Holy Cow! ... ... I Really Want to Read that Explanation!

Nice Black Brat! ... I Like it! Costly Overhaul? ... engine is Still "Standard" or .25 mm? Kind Regards.

That Sounds like a Blown Fusible (Link) or a Bad Grounding... it Has No Dashboard Lights Too? ... Nothing? If So, maybe the Battery Cables are Loose somehow. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

it Depends on How many Miles they have... if they're near 60,000 then Do it. You mean to leave them Without Covers, isn't it? Yes, the Oil Pump: Due to your Subie's engine Mileage, I Kindly Suggest you to Change it... or it will Fail Soon. (if it haven't been Serviced Yet) Kind Regards.

You're Searchin' for a New or a Rebuilt one, isn't it? ... but did you Consider the Option to Obtain a Used (Weber) one in a Junk Yard and Rebuilt it? it will be Cheaper. Also the Weber Doesn't add too much HP, but a Greater Low-end Torque and Acceleration. Kind Regards.

Fixed! ... ... at Least for a While... That horrible Hydraulic Lifters Noise (T.O.D.) I Solved it using first a can of MMO and after three months of Drivin' I changed the oil and used a can of "Hydro Stobel" which is an Oil Additive just for aid the Hydraulic Lifters, is Made in Germany by the Good Brand "Liqui-Moli" well known in our Market. More information about it, here: http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store/product156.html Next time I will Consider an EJ Swap ... ... Kind Regards.

if you Really want to Try something on your Oil, I Kindly Suggest to Try with a Can of Marvel Mystery Oil (a.k.a: MMO) instead of ATF... I had Hydraulic Lifters Noise in my Weekend Warrior Subie, I Solved it using first a can of MMO and after three months I changed the oil and used a can of "Hydro Stobel" which is an Oil Additive just for aid the Hydraulic Lifters, is Made in Germany by the Good Brand "Liqui-Moli" well known in our Market. More informarion about it, here: http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store/product156.html Kind Regards.

Readin' this makes me Think that an Oil Pump Failure could be Possible there... Causing that Sound. How is the Oil Pressure in Low and High RPM's?

Now That points me to Think it is a CV Joint Failure... I'm not sure about the 2000 Forester USA Version, but if it has the FWD / AWD Option and it have been in FWD only, you can Engage it in AWD and see if it Moves. Kind Regards.

This Sounds like you're Using Cheapo Bad Quality Fuses... I had almost the Same Issue on my '69 Mercury Comet... even some Fuses got Rusty enough to Fail Transport the Electricity. Then I Found Good Quality ones, Cleaned the Fusible Box and five Years have been passed by since the Last one Blew. Kind Regards.

This is Fun! ... Did you know that the First Generation of Legacy that came to Latin America (Late 1988 to 1994) Came Stock with Carburetor and Mitsubish¡t Distribuitor? Look at post Nº 30 of this Thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101887&page=3 Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Advice, and yes, I'll Like to Know More about this Kia... My Wifre's one is the Same but Automatic. So Far it Runs Powerful & Smooth... But I just Noticed Something: Last Night I Didn't Found High Octane Gasoline (Super) on the Gas Station Nearby Home; so we Put a Half Tank of Lower Octane (Regular) Gasoline, it was Empty. The Engine Started to make Valve's Noises... So I Blame the Gasoline... Then I Put a Bardahl Brand "Octane Booster" 12 ounces Bottle onto the Tank... Now the Noise cut just a Half, under acceleration, but the Idle speed Has Increased a Lot! also the "Check Engine" Light came on... Any Idea? ... Could that Gasoline + Additive damaged Something? Any Suggestion will be Highly Appreciated. Kind Regards.