Loyale 2.7 Turbo

An EJ22 Brat will be Nice, Fast and Fun to Drive! I Kindly Suggest you to Measure the Wide Space on the Engine's Bay and then Measure the EJ Engine's Wide... Because the Gen2 Brats have enough Wide Space to fit the EJ Engine but I am Not Sure about Gen1 Brats... Maybe you'll need to cut down a Li'l bit there. I Wish you Luck on your Project and also I Kindly Suggest you to Post Pictures here of your Swap Work. I Thought it was Popeye! Kind Regards.

if you Drive on Warm Climates, I Kindly Suggest you to use 20W~50 of Good Quality Oil, for more Cool Climates switch to 15W~40. Kind Regards.

Well... I Do Custom Wooden Speakers and other Things and I Made a Custom Wooden Plate to Solve that Situation on Both my Wagons, you can see my Writeup plenty of Pictures about it, if you want to: Click on my Avatar and Scroll down on my Public Profile Page: there You'll find a List of Links to my Writeups. I Hope this will Help you. Kind Regards.

That could be Very Dangerous! ... 'cos it Should Not Engage Lock in any Key position but Keyless only. I Kindly Suggest you to Remove that Damaged ignition Switch from the Steering Column. I Remember that when I Was Child, my dad was Drivin' a VW Microbus that Locked the Steering Wheel while Driving! he did an Emergency Stop and then he has no Choice but to Break the Lockin' Mechanism... including the Turn Signals System... that was Very Dangerous so in order to prevent a similar Situation I Suggest to Remove that ignition Key... Maybe you can Find the Right Replacement. Kind Regards.

Thank you for this Test Idea, let me tell you that As I Wrote before, I Removed the Whole Head and Already Changed those Guides and serviced the Valves, But I Did the Test that you Suggested just in case... and I Found: Nothing! ... No White nor any colour of Smoke could be Seen; so I Assume those Valve Guides are Allright; but Thank you for the Test, it is a Good Idea that I will keep in mind. Very Respectfully let me Tell you: No my Friend. As experience had teached to me, Usually the White Smoke Clouds means Oil Burning and Black Smoke Clouds means a Too Rich Fuel/Air Mixture. However there could be more causes for that but Basically that's How it works. Thank you for your Kind Post, I Already Checked those Coolant levels as you Suggested and They're Allright too. Ha, Ha! ... Well, the Car Came in a Cargo Vessel from Georgia, USA. Let me Tell you that Since I Poured those Four Ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil on the Kia's Engine Oil, the Car Runs Very Very Smooth and the White Cloud of Smoke is Gone! no more Early Mornin' Clouds of Fumes Anymore! .... seems like the car's engine had Stuck the Oil Piston Rings and the MMO did get 'em Free Again!!! Now that MMO is what I call a REAL Additive! Kind Regards.

Well, Today I Poured four ounces of "Marvel Mystery Oil" also Known Here as "MMO" on the Sephia's Oil Pan and I Drove it for 40 Miles in Mixed Traffic conditions... Let's See Tomorrow Morning's First engine Start, I Hope to see Less ~or No~ White exhaust's Cloud... Also I Had to Sign up at a Kia Forum site, there is a Thread with further Details than This thread, 'cos that's a Kia site. you can see that here: http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-sephia-forum/55621-long-time-sat-kia-sephia-help.html But in Both Threads I am feelin' so Alone... Kind Regards.

I don't want to Argue your Reasons but Please let me Explain Something that I have Learned by my Own Experience with Many Cars, not only Subarus: After Some Days without Starting the Engine or even the Every day First Start, due to the fact that all the Oil went to the Oil Pan; when you First Start the Engine, it Takes More Time Without Enough Oil Pressure when the Car Runs on Smaller Filter and Less Time when the Same Car Runs on Larger Filter. It is Due to the Oil Filter's Own Capacity: the Larger Filter Holds more Oil inside its Own than the Smaller one, also it is Right at the Oil Pump, So the Filter's Oil Helps to Prevent the Engine from Runnin' Without enough Oil when Started: It Supplies the Oil While the Pump gets it from the Oil Pan; So That is Why a Bigger Filter is Better than a Smaller One; but that is the Only Noticeable Difference Between Smaller and Larger Filters... The Real Reason of Many Sizes in Oil Filters is Just the Available Space on Engine's Bay, not the Performance itself; just like the Real Reason Behind the V Engine Design: is Easier to Fit in a Short Space a V8 than an in-Line 8 engine, isn't it? I Kindly Suggest you to Try this: if your Subie can Hold Both Sizes of filters and it has the Oil Pressure Gauge, Check how Long takes to Raise it Up when First Start the Engine in Early Morning with the Large Filter and after the next oil Change, check the Same but with the Smaller Filter... without Oil Pressure Gauge: Just Listen to the Hydro Lifters and how long takes the Oil Pressure to Quiet 'em with Both Sizes of Filters and the Same SAE Number Oil. in Example, my EA82 Wagon can Hold the Purolator L10028 Small Oil Filter and the Purolator L20064 Large Oil Filter, both work just Fine but with the Larger Filter the Oil Pressure Gauge Raises Up Faster after Start than with the Smaller One... Using the Same 20W~50 Oil, and Hydro Lifters Quiet Faster too. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.

Plenty of R12" and R13" Tyres in our Market, but We are So Far... Yes, I Run in Both my Subies 205/60 R13 ... Those Compared to the 185/70 R13 are almost Identical, Same Tall except for an Inch Wider. See This Picture I Taken with my Cellphone Long time Ago, when I Switched from 185 to 205: Hope This can Help. Kind Regards.

I Agree Absolutely with Edrach's Post, Specially with This: So, I Kindly Suggest you to Not Use the Stereo or other electronic sensitive Devices... (Because they Might be Fried Too) ...untill you Change that Alt. Kind Regards.

Nice Neon! ... I Like it and I'm Glad to Know that the Engine was Good... I Like your Idea with the Marvel Mystery Oil. Sorry for Hijack your Thread but I have a similar situation and No Experience with Marvel Mystery Oil and also I just Obtained a car that Sat unstarted for Several Months... I Already Changed the Head Gasket and Fixed the Valve's Seals... Seems like the Oil Rings from the Pistons are Sticky, 'cos the Car Blows a White Cloud of Smoke when is First Started Early Mornings... Otherwise it Runs Awesome! (For more info see This Thread) But I am Not Sure about the MMO ... Should I Take out the SparkPlugs and Pour Some MMO there? ... if So: How Much is the Suggested Amount? ... Or due to the Fact that the Engine is Already Working almost Fine, Just Burnin' some Oil: Should I Pour the Pint Bottle onto the Crakcase? Kind Regards.

I just Removed the Stereo (That Came Without its FacePlate) from the Sephia's Dashboard... so Now I am Able to Know its Characteristics and maybe to Obtain another FacePlate. The Stereo CD Receiver unit is Brand: JVC model KD-S640 I Found it Here. It Came with a CD inside! ... ... Named: "Dj Infamous: Young Dro & Young LA – Black Boy, White Boy" ... that can be Seen Here. (Also I Found in the Car a Huge Pink EarRing without its Pair) I Already Found a Couple of Websites where there are Available Used FacePlates for it, but Seeing that Stereo Unit that Says "Made July 1999" makes me Think that it should be a Better Idea to install a New Unit there, because it is a Decade Old Stereo and maybe Don't Worth the Effort to obtain a New FacePlate... also Maybe it is Damaged too. Kind Regards.

Well... I Just came Back from "Hunting" at Different Car Parts' Shops and I Came back Home with a Bottle of an additive Named "Marvel Mystery Oil" also Known Here as "MMO". It reads that I can Pour it in the Gas Tank And in the Crankcase... I've never Used MMO Before... please Let me Know any Idea or Suggestion about it... I Want to use it Mainly (Or entirely) with Engine's Oil in order to get Free the Oil Rings from the Pistons... What do you Think About that? Kind Regards.

Could I Ask what was the Purpose Behind Cuttin' the Cherokee like That? ... Some Project? Kind Regards.

funny! ... I Think it is a Cool Hat! ... I Like it. Could I Ask if that came Already like that or is Something that you Made? Kind Regards.

Oh, Thank You! ... ... You're So Kind!

Well... it is Alive! ... ... and Runnin' very "Fast & Furious"! The Brand new Pulley Came, I Already Changed it and the Engine's Head Gasket, Serviced the Valves and its seals, Poured New Fresh "Motul" Brand Oil 20W~50 and Brand new Oil Filter, a Brand New Radiator and Sparkplugs there.. also the A/C Condenser came Welded and the Disc & Drum Brakes came Repaired from the Shop and all is Back on its Place again; including new Brake Pads. After all the Work was Done, The Car Started Right in the First Try! and it Drives Awesome, But... it Blews a White Cloud of Smoke While Engine is Still Cool ... ... I Believed that I have Overfilled it with too much Oil ... because the Dipstick comes like This: on its Front Shows Oil Mark Just Between F and L, but on its Back is comes Full of Oil up untill Half Dipstick, Far away above the F and I am Not Sure How to Understand this... All the Other Cars I've Repaired and the Ones I Own Shows the same Oil Level in the Front or in the Back of their Dipsticks... Now I've Obtained the 2001 Sephia Owner's Manual (Downloaded in .pdf format) because the Car Didn't came with it; after some readin' it Says that to look more accurate the Engine's Oil Level, first Start the engine for a While and Then shut it off, let the Oil get Back to the Oil Pan (let it Rest some Minutes) and after all that, Pull out the Dipstick. So I Opened the Engine's Oil Cap and let the Engine Drain out all the Oil during All night Long... I Discovered this: The Total Amount of Drained Oil Didn't Reached to the Full Gallon, I Didn't removed the Oil Filter so that Might explain it in Part but I was Expecting some More Oil because I Believed it was Overfilled... the Total amount Drained was just 3.2 US Quarts. I Closed everything, re cap and then I Refilled the Engine with Fresh "Motul" 20W~50 Oil, just 3.5 US Quarts as the Manual Said (The Amount when Oil Filter is Not Removed) and Started the Engine, then I Drove it for Twenty Minutes. After that, I Shut it Off and let it Rest for other Twenty Minutes in order to Let the Oil Go Down to the Oil Pan... then I Measured the Oil with the Dipstick. But This Time Things Have Changed: Now the Dipstick comes out Completely Clear to Read: it Came in the "F" of Full on Both Sides! :cool: But the White Smoke Cloud still Happens when the Car is Just Started or While Drivin' at Cruise Speeds and I Do a Deep Fast Acceleration. So, Seems like the Oil Rings on the Pistons are Stuck, due to the Long Time Sat... Because there comes a Huge White oily Cloud from the Smoke when First Started, That dissapear (or reduce to levels that can not be Seen) when the car has around Three Minutes of Run. Does anybody Know if there is Something, some additive that I Could Add Safely to the Engine's Oil that can Make those Oil Rings to be Loosen Free Again? Also the Car had this other Problem: When I Stop it for a While, in example at a Red Traffic Light Semaphore; the Idle Slowly Drops to an "Almost Die" Level and then Accelerates to its Regular RPM's by itself ... Then Again the Idle Slowly Drops to an "Almost Die" Level but it Accelerates itself to the Normal RPM's again ... and So On ... it Keeps Doin' That all the Stopped Time at Idle... It Takes ~ Three or Four Seconds from the Normal Idle RPM's Speed to the "Almost Die" RPM's but it Accelerates back to the Normal RPM's Speed Faster than a Second. Also the "Check Engine" Light Came along this Behaviour... I am in a Developing Country where is Not Easy nor Cheap to Find Someone who Has the Special Equipment that connects to the Car's Computer, So I Can not Obtain Any Codes; ... last night I Removed the Possitive (+) Terminal from the Battery, Then Manually Checked and Double Checked again for Loose Connections in ALL the Plugs and anything electrical I Found under the Hood... I re-connected the Battery just untill Next Morning. The "Check Engine" Light went Off and the Idle Dance too... now I Just want to see if the White Cloud of Smoke is Gone too... What could caused that Behaviour? Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Words! Also I've Seen the "Montego" Version here in Honduras, but Only in Station Wagon Shape with a 302 V8 engine. The Comet is the Sports Coupe and there were a Comet "Caliente" (Spanish for Hot!) Version that was also available with two different V8 Engines. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Replies! Yes, SC Means Sports Coupe. That in-line 6 Cyl. Engine uses Hydraulic Lifters Too, is a Quiet, fast & Powerful Engine that Runs with a Very Tiny Carb, I Obtained a Brand New Chromed Carb for it. Believe me: is Very Economic to Drive. The Main Difference between the 250 Engine on my Mercury and the Truck's 300 Engine, Beside the Bigger Bore & Stroke, is that the Truck Versions has a Much Larger Run on the Cylinders, so the Truck Engine Version is Slower but more Powerful (And Gas Thirsty too), the Truck Engine is Taller Too; but Basically Yes, is the Same Engine. Kind Regards.

Fiasco? ... Why? I will Really Love to See more Pictures of That Nice VW Bug! Kind Regards.

My 1969 Mercury Comet Sports Coupé, Today Reaches its first 40 Years of Non-Stop Work & Run History ... ... My Mercury has been Part of the Family since New, my Dad purchased it on Spring, 1969; and I came on it the day I was Born in 1975 ... After lots of Family Memories and Tons of Photos, Travels Videos, etc, Together; makes this MuscleCar to be a True Part of the Family, is somehow like my "Brother" ... I Named it "Herbie" when I was Child... so many Memories together makes this classic, Priceless! Now after 40 years and more than three full Turns (and counting) on the Odometer, it still Runs like a Champ! Here you can See "Herbie" next to my Former White Wagon, which Now is Modified and known as the "BumbleBeast" Here you can See "Herbie" parked outside the House, and my Former White Wagon, inside the Garage: Here you can see "Herbie" Parked in front of my yellow "Loyale 2.7" (Now Dead - Background Story here) Project Wagon: Engine Photo: Much More Photos in my USMB Photo Album: Here ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/user/13502-loyale-27-turbo/?tab=gallery I've upgraded it with Front Disc Brakes, a Brake Booster (Subaru, by the way), Chromed Engine Parts (Such as Head Cover, etc...), Under Body anti Rust Paint, Body Paint, a "Yamaha" Stereo, etc... Also I managed to "Made" (with the help of a Friend who owns a Metal Casting Factory), a Piece for the Engine: The Water Inlet (Where goes the Thermostat) is now Made of Thick Brass, instead the Weak one that Ford does (Made of Manganese?), which somehow trend to get destroyed after a couple of years of use. It Runs Great on its Manual Trans and Being just 250 Cui (4.1L) 6 Cyl. is economic to Drive for a Full Sized MuscleCar Coupe. I Just Wanted to Share our Celebration! Kind Regards. ►Edited to Update the Picture's Links and Web Links, due to the New USMB's System

Today I Found that the Main Pulley is Li'l Bent ... Already Asked to the Parts Shop for it, Thanks God it Was not Expensive!

Holy Cow! ... I Already Read the Complaints, let me Tell you That I did that Before buy it, but That Kia was our only Choice due to the Very Little Amount of Money we Had to Purchase another Car... My First Option was Another Subaru Of Course, I even Found one but the Price was too High (Here in my Country Used cars are Very Expensive) You can see the Subie I Found at This Thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101887 Kind Regards.

Yes, I am almost Sure that he Has the Latin American Version of the Loyale, which came here available with This Engines: 1.3L (EA63 for the Sedan DL wich were only 4 Speed Manual) and 1.6L (EA71 for the Sedan GL and the Coupe DL) and 1.6L (EA71 for the Wagon DL), 1.8L (EA81 For the Wagon GL) and 1.8L (EA82 or EA82T For the Wagon GL10) but the Buyers were able to Ask Different Engines and Drivetrains for Each model, so there were more Combinations. But Just for information let me Tell you that it exist the EA72 Engine! ... ... as Far as I Know, some Prototypes were built, Basically it is an EA82 with just 1.6L of Displacement, it has the Timin' Belts and the Looks of the EA82. Brief information of it can be Found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EA_engine So, JPA-GL1986 if you Believe that you have the 1.6L Version of the EA82 please Upload Some Pictures of your Subie's Engine in Order to Help you identify it more Accurate. Kind Regards.

As Far as I Know, Kias are the Twin Brothers of Hyundais, (Hyunday Purchased Kia in 1997) Just like Ford & Mercury so it is interesting Why only one has that issue... Could I Ask you about the "Bottom End" ... is that the "U" Joint? Kind Regards.

The Boost Sensor plus All the Sensors and Some Vacuum Stuff were Removed along the Cat since March 1993, doe to No Unleaded Fuel Available Here and that Stuff was Poisoned... No "Shift Up" Acting under 4,000 RPM's untill Now... I Believe that Somethin' Changed on the ECU.