Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Thank you for Postin` the Picture! ... Now I`m Tryin` to Figure out how to Use that tool ... ...

Really Nice and Not Common Subie! ... ... I Like it and is Nice to know that you Saved it ... Now it will be in Good Hands. To Fix the Rocker Panel Smash, you can Carefully Cut it Horizontally, just to "Open" it, Following its Design; (Cutting Without Removing the Metal, just "Opening" like a Sardines` Can) Check the Fuel Lines, Electrical Wiring, Brake Lines... etc... After Checking and when You`re Sure that Everything inside is Fine, The Opened Metal can Easily be Twisted to -close to- its Original Position... The Hardest Thing is to Weld it without Damaging the said Lines & Wires... I Have done that once long time Ago... I Used Very Wet Newspaper all Around and used some Tiny Metal Sheet as Shield, then Carefully Welded Around, Step by Step (Allowing it to Cool Down, Helping it with fresh Water in Li`l Amounts) using Gas Welder (Not Electric) and Finally some Hammer Hits, Sandpaper, and Filler... Properly Prepared for Paint... it Looked Nice after the job was Done and That car is Still Runnin` Nice! Hope that idea could Help you. Kind Regards.

Welcome! Have you Checked the Solenoid itself? ... Maybe it is Failing... Let me Tell you that your Legacy / Liberty is Considered as "New Generation" ... So I Suggest you to Post your Question at the "New Generation of Subarus" Forums. Kind Regards.

Nice Hatchback! ... Very Clean! Could it be Registered in Another State? ... ...

Could you Post Pictures of That Tool? ... Sounds interesting!

Welcome! ... ... and Thank you for Sharing your Pictures. Kind Regards.

As I Said it Before: instead of that Cocktail, there is a Special Gearbox Oil that is Formulated with the Same Component from Heavy Duty Grease: MO2 (Moly) I Obtain it from Motul: http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/565279/Lubricants/Gearbox-oils/Motul That must be due to the Fact that There are Lots of People Using that Cocktail, but very Few of them have taken their Gearboxes appart and Check the Damage it Makes.

Ha, Ha! ... ... I Drove Long time Ago, a Datsun Pick-Up with that Behaviour! Well... it has been Done in Leone (EA81) Coupes... ...I Have Never seen a Loyale Convertible Yet.

Could I Ask What is your Engine`s Actual Timing? ... it Should be Around 20º

Holy Cow! ... ... Where did you Found that? ... Great interesting Picture for Sure! ...Poor Li`l Subie!...

Could I Ask Where do you Live? ... Maybe you can Find an Used Good Workin` one at a Junk Yard or if that isn`t Available, Maybe you can buy it Online. Kind Regards.

it only happens During Acceleration? ... if So, Something Loose are completing the Circuit, I Believe that there are two Main Points where it could be, First at the Steering`s Contacts, second Outside nearby the Horn... Maybe there are something like a cutted Wire touching Ground. I Suggest to Start Lookin` at Those Points, if There`s Nothing Wrong, Follow the Wires from the Horn up... if Still you Couldn`t Find Anything Wrong... Maybe your Subie is Trying to Say you Something!!! ... ... Just Kidding! Good Luck!

That is a Nice Subie to Use as Daily Driver... Don`t be Afraid to Fix Electrical Systems... There are some great Writeups at the USRM. Since it`s Carbed, if After Reseal the Engine, the Craptachi Carb it has doesn`t gives Good Performance, I Suggest you to Weber it! ... But the Thing to Start is the Brakes, Take your Time to fix that First. Good Luck!

When you Heard that... ...and then the Engine Died, makes me Think that Maybe it has a Loosen Valve! ... ... Or Something that Just got Loose enough to Stop the Engine from Working. I Suggest to Check that Carefully and Don`t try to Start your Engine Downhill Again... Good Luck!

You Did a Great Job! ... and I Like the Way your Subie Looks in Two Colours! ... What about the Bumper?

Great! ... ... Pics Please, about the Progress with your Subie!

Distribuitors for 2WD EA82`s Subies have a Faster Advance Curve than 4WD EA82`s ones.

Usually Struts for Subies came Gas Filled, so if you are Able to Take one appart and put it Stand in the Floor, then Push the bar to the Botom... if the Bar goes Hardly Down with some resistance and when you remove your Hand, it comes Up by itself Slowly, but Full Up; it must be in Good Condition. Worn Struts Doesn`t have any Resistance to Move their bars inside / outside, and won`t come Up by Theirselves, except for the ones without Gas... those shall only have the Resistance to move Up & Down. Hope this can Help you... Kind Regards.

There are some "AntiRust" Special Paints in the Market, some are Designed for Heavy Rust Control, such as Maritime applications (Keels, Hulls, Vessel`s Bodies... ) Those can be Sandpaper & Painted after Treatment and Trend to be at Around the Average Price of Similar Products, Maritime ones are Better, but their Finnish is Harder to Work... That`s in Spanish Below the English! ... is Not Usual to Read Spanish Here!

Yes, You`re Right ... ... Also Climates have Something to Do with... For Example I Use Just 20W-50 in my Cars Because I Live in the Tropical Caribbean... So I Wrote about my Experience and Comparison between Monograde and Multigrade Engine Oils in my Country... I Believe that in Cooler Climates, Thinner Oils Shall be Used. I Just Wanted to say that Maybe the Engine`s has nothing wrong with the Oil System, just with the Cooling System and the Lower Oil Pressure could be due to the Higher Temps ... ... Kind Regards.

Very Respectfully I Want to Add some More information about Engine`s Oil Behaviour. This: is half Right' date=' Let me Explain:[/color'] That only Happens in Monograde Oils. (Single SAE Number Oils) For Example: SAE 30 or SAE 40. Because they have the Same Thickness all the Time, but if Engine`s Temp Raises too High, they Becomes Thinner, sometimes Enough to Change the Oil`s Viscosity, But Thinner Oil ... ...will Give you Higher Oil Pressure' date=' Not Lower. [/color'] Also, Multigrade Oils, For Example SAE 15W-40 or SAE 20W-50 have Very Different Behaviour: Multigrade Oils have their Viscosity very Thin in Cool Temps, that is the First Number of the two in the SAE Class. (in example: 15W- ...) But While Engine Reaches Higher Temps, the Multigrade oil is Designed to Absorb the Temperature, Swelling and Making the Oil to have Thicker Viscosity Grade, going from the First Number to the Second Number (in example: ...-40) Slowy, with Variation in Thicness depending on Engine`s Temps. Very Different Oil Behaviours. So, if he used Multigrade Oil and Engine`s Temperature Reached too High, the Oil Viscosity went to the Higher Value and Thicker Oil makes Lower Oil Pressure. If the Subie Doesn`t have Oil in the Coolant and / or Viceversa and it was Using Multigrade Engine`s Oil; I Suggest to Fix the Cooling System Problem as Soon as Possible, to Avoid a Head Gasket Damage. Kind Regards.

I Believe that he Wanted to Write EA82, but let me Tell you that the Loyale Body was Displayed first in 1981 and Available in Japan since 1982. As Seen at the Subaru`s History in their Website, here Goes the Pic you Wanted: http://www.subaru-global.com/history.html

I Agree, Absolutely. I Guess That`s Why the Newer Heads for EA82`s at the Dealer, came Heavier and the EGR Passages Comes Closed!

I Really Like it! ... So Sad that I Live So Far...

Thank you for your Kind Reples! Because the Bottle was a Gift...