Loyale 2.7 Turbo

From Dashboard to Center Console. The Center Console on these Second Generation Kia Sephias, has a Huge cover that Flips closed or open in its rear part; it Hides a Big, squared compartment under it, which is very Useful; but that huge cover is really Annoying. Said cover was designed as an Arm rest of some sort, so is Tall and has a pretty small sliding Drawer built-in, for the rear passengers; but each time you flip open that Huge cover to reach the hiding compartment under it, the small drawer pops open out, dropping its contents to the Floor... By the way, that Cover / mini Drawer \ arm rest, is very Noisy, So I got Rid of it, long Years ago. Then I have to close the two Holes that said cover left on the Center Console; so I used 4 minutes J. B. Weld and after using masking tape underneath; I covered the two Holes, which were one big hole for the Hinge in the Rear, and one small hole for the locking tab, in the Front.

I can repair the Old instrument Cluster, by changing the mere Speedometer assembly shown above, it is sold separately by Kia, and has the part number: 0K2AA55471, you can see it here: ~► # 0K2AA55471: Kia. Speedometer. Speedometer Gauge. But the new part, which comes with Zero miles on the Odometer, is quite Expensive. I will keep the Old instrument Cluster as spare parts' source. Edit: By the way, Removing the Needle is not as hard as to put it back in place, accurately. Kind Regards.

After this: I tried the old instrument Cluster on the Car, only to find that now the mere Speedometer is completely Dead; but the Rest is working alright. So I swapped the Newer instrument Cluster back in Place.

Also, upon a closed inspection, I found this: The Factory left debris on the Varnish that covers the metal tracks that sends the electrical signals, maybe causing some sort of "Short Circuit" and / or Resistance among the affected Tracks, which might have caused the component's Fail.

This is the mere Speedometer / Odometer \ Trip Meter Unit: I noticed that everything is moved by a single electric motor.

Dissection of the Old (dismissed) instrument Cluster which has the Speedometer's Fail I used that Big Fork to remove the Needle.

I knew that to Fix a failing electronical Speedometer is almost impossible. The reason is that those Speedometer / Odometer \ Trip meter units, comes somehow "Sealed" or Closed -Locked- from factory, in a way that their assemblies Breaks and becomes unuseful if you attempt to open or disassemble them. They're designed like that to Avoid that someone could simply open or disassemble them to turn back the Count on the Odometer; and fool a possible buyer of the car, showing less mileage than what it really has. However, I disassembled the old instrument Cluster, because I wanted to see What could have been the Cause of such a weird fail, and see if I could prevent it from Happening again, on the newer instrument Cluster. In the following Photos I'll show you my Findings.

Back on the instrument Cluster's Topic: The new -to us- instrument Cluster, has been working absolutely Flawlessly on the "KiaStein" but... What happened to the old instrument Cluster's Speedometer?

Any update on this? Kind Regards.

There's a chance that they used some kind of oil additive, that might thicken the overall oil SAE number, somehow. Why don't you ask them? Kind Regards.

Welcome! Maybe there are loose plugs on the wiring harness, worth check it, as it should have been spliced to wire the instrument cluster; also the Transmission might be the one from the same Subaru that was the Engine donor... Share Photos of your Brat! Kind Regards.

How about the Relays? ... Have you checked 'em? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/

Thank you for your kind words, which I really appreciate. Kind Regards.

No problem, I never felt like you were disrespectful nor like disregarding my Answers, I only thought that you needed a confirmation from other members, which I found perfectly normal. Let me know if you have more questions, and don't forget to update this thread as you Weber Swap Goes. Kind Regards.

Yes, the P.C.V. system is configured likewise on the EA81, so you can connect the hoses in the same way. You will not need a fuel pressure regulator, as long as your Subie has the original fuel pump, and your EA81 is carburated; or if you're using an aftermarket fuel pump that is intended for a Carburated engine, which delivers between 3 and 12 PSi. If your subie has an EFi fuel pump, then Yes, you'll need a pressure regulator. All this information was already written in my Weber Swap writeup, so I think that you're seeking a confirmation from other members, rather than me. Maybe I'll stay silent from now on. Kind Regards.

The Oil Catch can isn't really needed. However, if you really want to buy it, the brand is GREDDY and here's a Web Link to one of those: http://www.ebay.com/itm/greddy-turbo-oil-catch-tank-/252568908905

Yes, of Course, I Agree. Also I am afraid of being stranded in the middle of nowhere on this Subie, even worse if I am with my little daughter and wife; as we usually go in my Subaru at different Mountain offroading adventure trips on Weekends; but every time I am about to change the Timing Belts, the Dilemma starts over again, as the old ones still looks intact, like new... I've seen less older timing belts on other cars, that has worn marks and they looks like about to fail, but not this ones. However, I am only Delaying the inevitable, and sooner or later, I will change this old Timing Kit from my Subaru "BumbleBeast" and use the Gates TCK 299 new timing kit. Kind Regards.

Which I have not installed yet. The reason is that somehow, I don't really want to remove that old Timing Kit from my Subie, because it really looks and feels pristine like New, making me feel guilty, like Wasting good parts for nothing, if I change it.

However, to read this... ...made me to obtain a Gates TCK 299 timing kit ~► https://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCK299-Timing-Belt-Component/dp/B000C2UL5U

The whole timing kit, which includes Both timing belts, tensioners, etc, were installed new and coverless since year 2009 and everything looks pretty Good so far, to be such an old timing kit; but it is a genuine Subaru brand, which I found new old stock at the -now defunct- local Subaru dealer. Yes, and a lot Cleaner also, I believe by a mix between the free centrifugal action, and the radiator fans blowing warm air to them.

I must confess... sigh ...that I have Not changed the timing kit on my EA82 "BumbleBeast" yet; so it is still running with both timing belts and the tensioners, that I installed, coverless, since year 2009, as written here on previous posts. During all this years and miles, they have been spilled on both timing belts, Power Steering Fluid and Motor Oil, even soaked in Coolant, and also I have had washed out Clean the engine and its bay, several times with a Steam cleaner, using detergent and water, even gasoline to remove grease from torn c.v. joints' boots, and the old timing kit has been performing without a fail, so far... Despite such mistreatment, both Subaru brand timing belts, looks like if they were put On, yesterday, somehow, I can only imagine that the Subaru Branded belts are from the ones with greatest quality available; but I bet that also the ability to get clean by a mixture of the free centrifugal action from being coverless, plus the warm air blown by both electric fans over them, has something to do with their longevity.

Back on the Topic, this recent comment, written by DaveT on another thread, but regarding the Timing Belts' subject... ...made me wonder about how often we drive the cars, that features non-interference engines, 'till their timing belts just simply Snap, without worrying too much on changing them at the proper interval.

Also, mine is an '85 as well. I've it since New, its my daily driver. Kind Regards.

Beautiful Lifted (4") Subaru Justy: Photo shared at one of the -many- Subaru Groups, @ Facebook.

Beautiful Plum coloured Loyale, belongs to Tomi Hyytiä from Finland.