Loyale 2.7 Turbo

No, I Don`t Wanted to Tell you that was your Fault, No. ... please do not misunderstand me! I Just Wanted to Say that Maybe is Better Idea to be Careful when you Talk with your Boss about your Problem ... to avoid more Problems! ... ...and I Suggested to Paint your Subie Because you said it is Very Dependable but it has Rust and Dents... Seems like I`ve mixed two different Ideas... ...Excuse me if I said anything Wrong... please accept my Humble Apologizes...

I Did That Redrill in Both my Wagons... Look at my List of Writeups at my "Public Profile" Page, one is about how to Change the Rear Wheels` Lock System, there you can see Pictures of How I Redrilled the Bolt Pattern. I Did it Long Long Time Ago... several thousand Miles and Trips have Done Without issues... ... Yes, the Rims` Center Holes are Smaller, so You`ll need to Reduce the Center Hubs Diameter at a Machine Shop. Kind Regards!

OK ... I Understand that, but maybe is Better Idea to be Careful with your Boss... Now is Hard to Obtain a Job... At least they Paid and apologized... Why don`t you Paint your Subie to make it Look Nicer? Kind Regards!

Some EA81`s Came Stock with Double Carb Setup, so if you really want to have a Twin Webers Setup, I Suggest you to Search for one of those Twin Carb intake Manyfolds. That will Sound Amazing!

Italian Made! ... What Year? ... Where are Usually Made the Other Weber Carbs? Mine is Made in Spain... Don`t know if there are some made in Other Places

I Like the Way the New Gauges are Placed in the Center Console! ... Along with the Stick Switches, they Give to the Car`s Interior a Retro-Futurist Look, Like a Classic James Bond Film`s Car! ... ... So Nice! Also All the Project Looks Clean, Well Done! ... Thank you for Posting Pictures and Sharing Experiences. Kind Regards.

I Suggest you to Search at the USRM for Writeups that can Help you with the Weber Swap. Also you can Look at my Public Profile (Click on my Avatar) to Find a List of my Writeups, there`s a Writeup about the Weber Swap I`ve Done, its Plenty of Pics & Ideas. Hope this can Help you. Kind Regards.

if you Spray under the Carb and the idle increases, so There must be some unwanted Vacuum There! ... I have had Many Problems with those Craptachi Carbs... That`s Why I swapped a Weber in my EA82 Subie with Great Results! I Suggest you to Check Carefully for Vacuums at the Carb`s Base, maybe it isn`t Flat anymore... You can Try to spread Shellac between the Gaskets. Good Luck!

I Don`t know Why, but when the Power Steerin` Pump in my EA82 Wagon got to Sound Loudly and it was Using ATF Only ... ... I Changed it and the new (from a Junk Yard) Pump sound Loudly with ATF... So I Switched to Power Steerin` Fluid and the Problem is Gone. No Problems so far and it has around five years with Just Power Steerin` Fluid. Maybe it is Related to the Climates...

Welcome! More details of your Subie will Help, but I Believe that if it will Idle just when the Engine is Cool and it Won`t just when it is Warm... Maybe the ignition Coil are Failing when is Hot. Also: Have you Checked if the Choke is Working Properly? Kind Regards!

...or Maybe get her back? ... You`ll ask to the New Owner?

Trying to Help you, I Believe that Those Fuel pumps have some sort of Sensor that makes `em to Stop Pumping the Fuel when it is Enough already Sent... For example in a Carbureted Subie with Electric Pump (Like an EA82) if you just put the Key in "ON" Without Startin` the Engine, You`ll Hear that the Fuel Pump delivers Just an Small Amount before it Stops... Untill you Start the Engine. So, Maybe due to the Wires that aren`t connected Yet to the ECU, the Fuel Pump can be Acting in The Behaviour of the "ON key Position Without Start" even if the Engine is Already Started. Did you Swapped the EJ Engine`s Fuel Pump? ... if So, did you used the Original -old Pump`s- Wiring? So I Suggest you to Try to Wire the Fuel pump alone with Direct Wires from the Battery, to Test if There is the Problem... Disconnect the Car`s Wires while doin` that. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

I saw a Strange Procedure few times at Local Repair Shops: Local Mechanics usually Wash the Ball Bearings Clean (with Gasoline) to remove dirt and old / dry grease, then after that, they put some clean grease to Boil in an old & Clean Paint Can, the Cleaned Bearing is inmersed into the Boiling Grease for some time... They says that Grease will go deep inside the Ball Bearings when is Hot. Then after some time Boilin` they just wait untill it Cools down before installing it Again, usually the Next day. They do that Procedure on Hard to Find Ball Bearings that Seems like they will Work fine if they`re Properly Greased. The First time I Saw that Procedure, I was Child and a Mechanic couldn`t find the Clutch`s Throw Bearing for my Dad`s `69 Mercury. I Have done that Many Times with Great Results... it is a Good Idea! Kind Regards!

Yes, you can Swap an EJ engine there, I Believe that in the Future when my EA82 needs Major Works, I`ll Take that Way too... But Let me Tell you that to Repair the EA82 is not too Hard to Do, and Also if your EA82 keeps Workin` fine, it will Last Long Long time. For the Tickin` Noise: Change the Oil Pump... it is Easier if you want to Change the Timin` Belts, but Don`t Forget to Change the Timin` Belts Tensioneers` Ball Bearings at the same time. The Drops comin` from the Water Pump can be an easy fix, like a Loosen inlet Pipe if the car Doesn`t Overheat, maybe it just need Retighten... also Check for Worn Hoses & Clamps. it seems to be a one Full Weekend Plenty of Fun! To Change the Wheels` Ball Bearings isn`t too Hard to do too... maybe for Another Weekend of Fun in your Subie! Good Luck!

Well... I`m not too good with Photoshop, but here goes my First Try! Your Original Picture: My Version: I Know... it Looks like a Cheapo Paint Job of Spray Cans just Over the Original Paint, Without Repair Anything... but That can give you an Idea... I Hope this can Help.

Thanx for the Skid Plate Explanations! ... ... I imagined that it was Hangin` but I Wanted to be Sure... About the one Second Runnin` Engine: I Believe that Maybe there`s a Loose Ground at the ECU, but also it could be Misplaced / Loosen Wires to the Sensors... But let me Ask you a simple Question: is There some Fuel cutting Solenoid, like the Carburetors have? ... Because it sounds to me like the Problem could be due to a Misplaced wire at the Cutting Fuel Solenoid... or it is Failing. Sometimes I Feel Lost in Translation but I Hope that You`ll Understand what I`m Writing about... I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards!

...But Have you Checked if one of the Headlights goes dim Along with the Dash? ... `cos in that Case, it must be a Relay issue...

Excuse me for This Question, but in this Picture: I See that the Skid Plate under the Engine, goes too much Down... Too Low, very Near to the Floor. is that the Way it will Be, or is just a work in Progress? ... Because if it Remains like That, it will be Scary to Drive in Off Road Conditions and seems Like the Lift Kit is Working Just to Prevent the Oil Pan from Hitting the Floor. But Beside that, it Looks Beautiful... I Like it! Kind Regards!

Both options are Nice, but you must choose the one that Really will make you Happy... so: What do you Like more to Do? ... What do you Enjoy more from Drivin`?

One Year Old Without Adjusting the Rear Pads is Enough to make the Pedal go Down a Lot Before Brakes Engage Properly... I Usually Suggest to Check that Adjustment around every four Months, but Depending on the Driving Conditions and Frequency of Use. Have you Checked if the e-Brake`s Stick to the Calipers are Loose to Allow their Free Side Movement? ... Maybe the tiny Triangle Part that goes there is Worn and gettin` stuck. Also it could be a Problem with one of the Cables. Good Luck!

Yes... I Believe that Ovedrill could give you Future Problems... Maybe you can find another Part in a Junk Yard...

I Have Accel`s Super Stock High Vibration Coils with Great Results... if you want an Accel Coil, I Suggest you to use a "Made in USA" one... The High Vibration Coil is filled with Epoxy instead of Oil... and Gives over 45,000 Volts too. Kind Regards!

Well... Don`t give up on the Carb... Just remain Few things to Check & Do... For Example: Not everybody knows that the Choke Spring`s Base is Mounted to the Carb`s Body with a li`l Pin that Seals a Hidden Vacuum Port... I Don`t know why there is a Port in such place, but if your Weber Sounds like too much air breathing thru a tiny hole, you must check if the Choke Mechanism is Tight. Also, the Fuel jets must be 140 in Both the Primary and the Secondary, for Proper Workin` in EA82`s ... Both gives a total of 280, really Near than the Craptachi`s Measurement... (Craptachis have 116 in Primary and 160 in Secondary) ...of 276. So if your carb came from a Toyota (22R? ... I Guess) Must be improperly Jetted for your Subie... Too big Primary gas can Drown an engine at idle. I Suggest to Check your Carb`s Jets and if they`re Not 140, try to Change `em with the 140 ones. Also: I Suggest to install a Return Spring in the Acceleration Cable`s Plate. Hope this can Help. Kind Regards!

Yes, I Agree... in Subarus I Suggest to watch for Other Parts that can Scare you for Sure, Like Rust! ... That`s Body Cancer in Subarus, but Their Engines are Long Lasting! Good Luck!

If the Thread got Damage, I have a Writeup with Pics about how to Rethread in Aluminium, could be Helpful... Just click in my Avatar and scroll down in my "Public Profile" Page to find a List of my writeups. Hope this can Help you. Best Regards.