Loyale 2.7 Turbo

This is the Problem Here... (Didn`t you read my Post?) ... There is no "One for Ground" is TWO Grounds= One for High Beam and One for Low Beam, and just One Possitive. Good Luck!

What Kind of Subie is That? ... by the 4EAT I imagine it is a Loyale, if So, it is Old School, so this Question must be Posted on the Older Gen Forums... I did not really fully understand your question, could you be more specific?

Beautiful Lookin` Hatch! ... ... I Like It! ... Congratulations!!!

I Agree, Absolutely, Specially This Advice: Welcome Aboard! ... Let me Tell you that a Subaru Loyale is Considered as "Old Gen" even if it is '94 Model... So I Suggest you to Post about it in the Older Gen of Subarus Forums. Best Regards!

I Have a Writeup about Relays, Plenty of Pics; you can see a List of Some of my Writeups at my "Public Profile" Page here. Also: Why Don`t you use independent Wires for the Fog Lights, and just use the Headlights` High Beam Wire as a "Signal" Wire to turn ON your Fog Lights?

Yes, The Hatch is Good Choice. Also if you Lift + EJ22 it, I`ll Love to see Pics! ...

O.K. ... Let me Suggest you How to Fix That. First get a Voltmeter Tester and a Notebook. Then Remove the Wires from one of the Headlamps, Draw in the Notebook each ones and put Detail info about `em (like Colour, Coloured Lines...) Then Again with the Other Headlamp`s Wires. Then Test Each Wire to find which ones have Positive (+) and Which ones Ground (-) -Negative- Electricity... When the Lights Switch is ON and then when the Lights Switch is OFF. Put that info on the Drawing for Each Wire. Repeat the Same on the Other Side Headlamp`s Wires and Compare if Each side Has the Same situation. it Must be the Same Config. Ussually, Old Subies -Loyales as I have Worked more on `em- Must have a Permanent Positive (+) or "Hot" Wire to the Bulb, then Two Negatives (-). Those Switch ON or OFF with the Lights Switch, one Negative is for the Low Beam and the another is for High Beam. That`s for Two Head Lamps Config, on Four Headlamps, there must be some Extra Wires for the High Beam Extra Lamp, so it will Turn ON Only on High Beams. Knowin` That, you Must Do the Above Said Test not only with the Switch ON and OFF, it must be Done with Low Beams Selected and Then High Beams Selected... Both with Lights Switch ON and OFF. Put All the Results for each Side and Each Wire on the Notebook. When All Tests are Done, Look at the Results, now you can Stablish which Wire is for Which Bulb, Which is Positive, Where are the Negatives and Then Connect Them to the Bulb`s Plugs. That Should Work Fine... ...But There are some Situations to Consider: is Each Side`s Wires giving the SAME Results? For Each Side, it Must be the Same Wire Turning On or OFF and the Same Wire for Low Beams / the Same Wire for High Beams... if Not: That is the Problem. so you Must Find the Right Wire for the Right Function... if a Wire Doesn`t Have the Proper Signal, you can Follow it to Find Corrotion, Short Circuits, Cuts, etc... Fix that First!!! When you Have Everything Fixed and Clear with the Wires, and if you Connect them Right to the Proper position on each Bulb`s Plug, Everything Must work Fine Now, but let me Tell you another Situation to Consider: The Power Amount Given to the Wires by the Relays. Even if you Measure 12 Volts -or around- on the Wires, it Doesn`t Mean that you have Enough Power to Turn On a Bulb, Let me Explain: the Amperes. Amperes is the Force that Volts have to Satify the Watts needed by any Electrical apparatus. A Bulb should "Eat" Around 55 to 80 Watts or So, it means that the Wire must Have not only 12 Volts, it Must Have around the 60 -or so- Amps that the Battery / Alternator can Bring, if not, there will be some Malfunction... Like Dim Lights, Dim Dashboard Lights, etc... The Power is Sent to the Wire by the Relays, I Have a Writeup plenty of Pics about How to Fix Any Relay Problems and Swap there Bosch Standard Relays instead the Original Old Roundies... My "Public Profile" Page at this Site, contains a List of my Writeups, seach there for the Relays` one. Also, here you can Find Useful info too, like an Schematic Diagram: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93347 if you Believe that you Connected Everything Right, and There is Still some Problem / Malfunction \ issue with your Subie`s Lights, then it must be a Relay Problem. I Hope this can Help you to Fix your Subie... Kind Regards ... Good Luck!

Not Mean to Hijack the Thread but: Holy Cow! ... You Change your Subie`s Oil at every 10,000 Miles? ... That Means around one Oil Change Per Year! ... ... How does your Subie Handle That? ... Synthetic Oil? ... Did you Have Any Issues / Performance Changes \ Leaks? Thanx!

I`m not Sure if EA81`s and EA82`s can Use the Same Filters... I Purchased one at the Dealer some time Ago, `cos I was at the Dealer in a Hurry (Went there Searchin` for another USMB Friend Subie`s Part) and I Needed to Change my EA82`s Oil that Day very Urgently (I was About to do a 600 Kilometers Trip) The EA82 Oil Filter cost me at the Dealer Around eight US Dollars (Around 160 Lempiras, our Currency is about 20 per one US$) and I Consider it VERY Expensive... but they are Certainly "Made in Japan" Subaru Brand, not aftermarket ones for sure... I almost Always put in my subies Purolator Brand, I Buy `em at our Local Wallmart (Called Here "HyperPaiz") Store, "Made in USA" for $ 2.50 (50 Lempiras) Why Don`t you use Aftermarket Oil Filters?

Oh my God! ... it is So Sad! :-\ Maybe they Steal Old Cars to do illicit activities and then left them abandonned ... unfortunately that happens very often here!

Welcome to the Board! ... Could you Post Pics of your Subie AND that Fiat? ... ...

What a Nice Lifted Subie! ... It Looks Awesome! :headbang:Good Job!!!

Before the Subaru Baja Project, it was a Prototype Pick Up Subaru (I Believe it was Based on the impreza) Called the Subaru Suiren. (to see More Pictures and info about Subaru Prototypes, see This Thread) Some Aftermarket Shops, offer an Impreza Based Pick Up too: it will be a Good Idea for Subaru to make another "Legend Reborn" with a New Brat!

I Believe it has Worn Ball Bearings... Could I Ask What is the Meaning of EMPI?

if you suspect that the Coolant / Antifreeze went to the Ball Bearings inside the Alternator, you can Take it Off to Clean and Lubricate it before Running Again... it`s Like a Maintenance Job.

Thank you for your Kind Replies, Nice Links Page!

If I Want my Subie`s Engine to Last Longer and If I Had To Choose between a Good Runnin` EJ20 Turbo and a Good Runnin` EJ25 Non-Turbo, I Will Preffer the EJ25 Non-Turbo and let it like That. Non-Turbo Engines Last Longer, They Work "Freely" not "Under Pressure" that Wears Faster an Engine. Also, They`re Simplier... Well... That`s my Idea, I Like "Long Lasting" Things... but if you Want to Race, Then I Suggest to Turbo the EJ25. Good Luck!

the Lack of enough Money plus other Problems had stopped the Project for a While... but There are some other Members Working on their Diesel Swap Projects Now. Could `em Post here their Progress? Thanx!

Great! ... you can post Updates of your Project Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64687 itis a Thread about Swap a VW Diesel Engine in a Loyale... Some time ago, a Friend and I got the Idea, but the Lack of enough Money plus other Problems had stopped the Project for a While... I Believe your Updates there Could be So Helpful for Other Members who want to do Something Similar... Best Regards & Good Luck!

it Sounds AWESOME! ... Just my Kind of Trip I Love to Travel, I have done many Travels Across almost all Central America, (I do Travel Almost each Weekend) but Alone :-\ or with Family, but I Have not went to any Subaru Meeting or Something like That... Talking about that, I am So Alone here... I Hope Someday, Somehow I Could Go to a Subaru Meeting... I Will Like to See Pics of That Here! Good Luck!

...Also, Do Not Forget the 90º 5/8" Hose that comes from the Water Pump to the Pipe that goes to the Heater... it is Hidden Around Under the A/C Compressor unit, so if it Fails, your Subie will have the Same Behaviour... I`ve had that Problem, back in 1996... The only Problem with to Change that 90º 5/8" Hose, is to get there... Good Luck!

To do a Test, I Suggest to Cap the Vacuum Line and Drive your Subie like That for a While, if you Notice that the "Popping" Sound is Fading untill Dissapear, then There was the Problem.

Oh my God! ... it is Really So Sad... deepest Condolences...

Yes, there are Difference but Not too Big, FWD can Handle the extra Power... But You must Drive it Carefully... Brakes Will Work Harder with the Extra Weight, but Againt it isn`t too Big Difference...

Yes, I Agree Absolutely! ... My EA82 have Cut & Close the Pipes and Leaved there the EGR Valve just Unplugged for many many Years without any Problem...