Loyale 2.7 Turbo

...So, No one had the Same Issue? I Believe is Better Idea to have Both Head`s Hoses attached to a Tee and Leave the Remainin` Opening disconnected from Carb, or PCV, as long as Heads blows Oil...

I Agree! ... No Second Fuel Filter... or I Haven`t Found it so far... Also, the Gasket: if you can not Find it, you can Make it: Just buy the Proper Gasket Maker Sheet at a Car Parts Store, and take out one of the Hitachi Carb`s Plastic Bases (the ones that goes Between the Carb and the intake Manyfold) and Draw the Outside and Inside to the Sheet, then Cut it Carefully, and Thats it! ... You can Make your new Gaskets like That!

I Believe that 215 are Too Fat Tires for a 13" Rims` Subie. I Use 205/60 R 13" in my Wagons and I Think that size is the Biggest they can Handle Without issues; so I Suggest 205. Good Luck!

What a Great Start! ... With a Subaru! ... Cool! I Think the Justy is a Pretty Nice Car, Small and Cheap to Drive. I Believe you got the 1.2L Engine. Could you Post Pics? Good Luck!

So... if I do Connect with a Large 5/8" Hose, one Head to Straight to the other, it won`t Damage Anything? What do you Think About?

Great! ... Nice Lookin` Subie, I Like the Tires` Lines Design!

Ha Ha! LoL! Well... if that Button allows you to Shift Neutral Without the Key, its Purpose is to Allow to Move the Car when Somethin` Fails, isn`t it? ... or there`s Somethin` Else?

Hi All! Since the Weber Swap, my White Wagon Runs Great, no issues with that so far... ...But now an Old Problem that was asleep, seems to comes awake now! Two Years Before the Weber Swap, when my Subie had the Craptachi Carb and the Original Air Filter Box, the Engine Started to Blow some Oil from the Heads, Thru the Head`s 5/8" Hoses to the Air Filter Box... The Air Filter Box had around an Ounce of Oil Around the Filter and even Around the Carb`s Throat Opening! I Had to Clean it every Weekend... :-\ ... I Know that Behaviour must be Caused due to Worn Piston Rings, Because I Alredy Changed the Valve`s Seals at each Head and the Blowed Oil Problem still Continued. Then, with the Weber Swap, I First Connected Both Heads with a 5/8" Cross to the PCV Valve, (so it will "Suck" the Heads Fumes and sending `em to the Exhaust) and the Remain Opening, to the Weber`s Air Filter Box... (Some time Ago I learned in a Very Intelligent Post by GD, that the PCV Valve Sucks the Dangerous Fumes from the Heads to Help maintain Clean the Engine`s Oil and prevent Dangerous corrosive Fumes from Damaging the Engine.) ...But some time after my Weber Swap was done, I Had to Remove the PCV Connection, leaving the PCV Alone with its Own Air Filter, and Letting Both Heads Connected to a "T" and the Remaining Opening to the Weber`s Air Filter Box... Just to Prevent the Heads` Blowed Oil from going Thru the PCV Valve, Drowning the Intake, with the Obvious Consequences... ... ...So, the Blowed Oil Problem dissapeared then... (and since that, I Try to Change my Subie`s Oil more Often) ...Untill the Past Week, where the Amount of Oil Flowin` from one Head to Another, seems to be Increased, and part of it are making the Air Filter Element very Oily and Dirty. I Know that Eventually I will need to Change the Piston Rings on my Subie... (Driving mainly OffRoad and in Very Muddy / Dusty \ Rocky Conditions, can let Huge Amounts of Dust to get Inside the Engine and Dust Works as Sandpaper there; that plus the Engine`s Age and Mileage are the Reasons Why I Believe that the Worn Rings is Causing that "Blowin` Oil" Effect) But to Change those Piston Rings Seems to be not Required yet, `cos the Engine Runs Soo Great!, it has no White -nor Black- Smoke at the exhaust, and the Engine are not Burnin` Oil... Spark Plugs comes Clean & Pink, and it Feels Soo Powerful! ... it just "Blows" Oil from the Heads thru the Heads` 5/8" Hoses. So, The Main Question is: Could I Connect one Head Straight to Another, Thru a New 5/8" Hose, Directly, Without Damaging anything? I Ask that, `cos if that is Safe, it will Solve many Problems: The Oil Blown from one Head will Travel to the Other one and Viceversa, so No Oil on Intake (Thru PCV) or Carb, or Air Filter Element! The Weber`s Air Filter Box`s Opening will be Used Just for the PCV Valve, so No More extra Air Filter will be Needed! No Oil Waste! it will make Things More Easy, even to Wash the Engine! Engine will Look -and Be- Cleaner! But, I am Not Sure if That will be Safe... Because I Feel Some Sort of "Pressure" Made like Vacuum / Blown air by the Heads, thru their 5/8" Hoses. So, if I Connect the Heads to Each Other, will it Damage the Engine? (More than the Loss of the PCV Suckin` bad Fumes) Or will be some Sort of "Pressure / Vacuum" Fight between Heads that can be Harmful or Fatal to the Engine? Will that Interconnection, damage the Head Gaskets or Something Else, like Hydro Lifters, Performance, etc? What Shall I Do with my Subie`s Head Hoses? Thank you Soo Much, Best Regards! JesZeK

I Agree! Don`t Let a Li`l Problem like that, Stops you from Continue your Great and Well Done Work; Remember that Those li`l Situations are the Ones that makes us to be more Careful and More Experts on our Works. Good Job!

I Weberized my White Wagon long Time Ago... it Runs Soo Great! ... I will not go Back to the Craptachi Carb, Never! As GD Said, an SPFI Swap will be Good Too... With the Weber, my Subie Engine`s Low End Increases, Torque Increases and HorsePower -Al Li`l Bit- it Runs Smooth yet Powerful, Like Never Before and we own that Subie Since New, Back in 1985... Never was Soo Great! So I Suggest Go Weber! Good Luck!

Nice Subie! ... I Like It! So, what are you Planning to do with it?

How did you That?

Very Nice RX!... I Like It! I Agree that a Carbed EJ Engine will be Great to this Car

Great! ... I Preffer the Subie than the Saturn, The Subie is a Real Car! not a Plastic Wonder...

Well... To Make a Fan Solid (Without Clutch) is Something to Consider... Remember that the Fan Clutch might feel Solid when Engine is Off and Cool, and when it comes Hot and Working, the Fan Clutch might Fail.

Really, Your Subie has the Temp Behaviour of a Failing Fan Clutch... I Suggest to Fix it making it Solid (Without Clutch) and You`ll Notice the Difference...

Great !!! Why?

...it is the Exhaust Pipe... Did you say "Rumble" Sound? ... Could it be a Worn Ball Bearing from one of the Timin` Belt`s Tensioneers? I Suggest to Start the Engine and go hear it close, accelerate it Manualy, Slowly untill the Noise Come and Go, and Try to Determine the place where it Comes From... Good Luck!

...or you Live at the Caribbean Tropics... My White Wagon was OverHeatin` Untill I Installed there a "Made in Honduras" Double Row Metallic Radiator, I Run it Without Thermostat and Without the Heather (I used a 5/8" U-Turn Hose to Bypass that) so the Temp Gauge Usually remains at ¼ and just in Hot Weather and Under Load or Heavy Traffic, Barely Reaches ½ Well... When any Car wich have Coolant in the Radiator, is Stopped for more tan six months without starting the Engine to get Fluids to move and Warm it, the First thing to get Damage is the Radiator, `cos the Coolant sat makes some sort of Clogging, becomes like Crystal in some Cases... The Question is: When you did the many Cooling System Flushes, did you leave Opened the Heather Control? ... I Mean to Slide the Control to the Hotter Position. Doing that, the Water flush will go Thru the Heather core too, if not, some dirt will remain trapped there... :-\ ... If you Already did that, then I have an Answer to you: The Fan Clutch is Failing. Let me Explain: My White Wagon was Overheating too Much (Long Time Ago, around 1994) then after many Head Gaskets Changed, my Dad Discovered that the Main Fan`s Clutch was too Loose... He did Removed That and Fixed it, by Twisting a Piece of Metal, attached to one Side of the Fan Clutch, to the Plastic Fan itself. And Voilá! ... Problem Solved! It is a Very Cheap Fixing Idea, Woth Try! Good Luck!

it is Something Different... is Located under the Main Brake Pump, and it got a Steel Cable Going from the Clutch Plate to it... Its Purpose is to Hold the Car Stop in Uphills, even if you Release the Brake Pedal... Untill you Release the Clutch Pedal. Really I Don`t Believe it is Causing the Problem, I Believe the e-Brake Mechanism, as I Said... About the Slow Speed Crash... Consider that when Brake Parts Becomes Hot, two things can Cause Brake Loss: the Brake Fluid can Boil and Dissapear, Also in Very Hot Temps, the O-Ring that Holds the Brake Fluid in the Brake`s Piston Can Melt Too... Please: Be Very Careful... I Suggest you to Check Everythin` as Soon as Possible. Good Luck!

Well... Last Night I Was Driving late my White Wagon, Slow Rainy Weather, etc... Here in my Country, we got Very Bad Roads, and during the Rainy Weather, some "New" Potholes appear... So, Many Cars with Stock H.I.D. and Aftermarket Kits, and some with Extra Halogens, trend to null the other Drivers Visibility... I Mean my Subie`s Lights seems to be so Poor, so I Drove very Slow and then, after an incoming car passed, it was another Huge Pothole (Like Moon Crater, Remember this Thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73725 ) In Front of my Subie ... ...I Just did a Fast Steering Turn to the Right and Drove Around that PotHole... I Still Think that my Subies Need Better Lights to have Safer Driving. The UnderBumper Halogens are the Salvation... for Now, but High Quality 100W Halogen Bulbs are coming Scarse here, and Lots of Bad Chinese Brands are in the Market... ...and I am Tired of Change the UnderBumper Halogens` Bulbs every two or Three Trips (Around each Month) I Miss those Great Quality Flösser Halogen Bulbs...

Yes! ... ...They Are! I Have a Write up about the Weber Swap in a EA82, that might be Helpful: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206&page=1&pp=10

My White Wagon is "Acting" identical... To do a Fast Fix -for example, while in a trip- I Just park the car and turn the Steering to the Right, then, with my Hand I Pull the e-Brake Stick behind the Wheel`s Brake, then it Releases easy, sometimes with a slow "Bum" Sound... The e-Brake has one stick on each front wheel, the Stick connects with the Caliper`s Piston in an "Indirect" Way, thru a Small piece of around 1" X 1" with round corners, and with Triangle shape ( seeing it by the side, `cos its Base is more Thick than its top) So, I Believe that small Piece has now enough Wear to Slip to one Side and I Believe That`s Why the Brake Remains Pushed even when you Lower the e-Brake Handle. For Now I am not Using the e-Brake, to prevent that Problem... (I have a Medium Triangle Shaped Stone of around two Pounds, in the Subie`s Back, just in Case I Need to Park it in a Downhill where nothing can Stop it; If I Park it near the SideWalk, I Turn the Wheel, so the Sidewalk`s Side Stops it) I Suggest to Check the e-Brake Parts and Change the Worn ones. Good Luck!

So you Plan to Swap that EJ Engine in Your Brat? ... Cool! Nice Project!

If you have Problems with your Dual Carb Setup, I Suggest to Swap the Intake Manifold with a Single Carb One, from a EA82 and Install there a 32/36 Weber Carb. It will Simplify your Engine while make it More Powerful.