Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Neither Mine... Turbo is just a Project -as I Said sometime Ago- Nice Lookin` Subie! ... I Like It! Well... All the Subies in this Thread are Nice Looking!

I Think it will be Easier to Help you Knowing more about what Subie Model is it. For Now, I Think that a Weld can Hold Enough for Short Trips, Because Welded Parts are Less Strong to Hold Real Stress, it Depends on the Parts Involved... so if you can Remove the Broken Part and Change it Soon, it will be Safer to Drive. Could you Post Pics? Good Luck!

My Subie`s Rear Brakes` Drums where Damaged, I`ve sent `em to the Repair Shop and they "repaired" -was Oval Shaped- re-Roundind them, but now there needs to Use Oversized Brake Pads, and to Adjust the Brakes every Weekend... :-\ ... or the Piston will go Out `till Loose Brake Fluid... ... That`s one of the Reasons Why I Want to Swap there Discs. Other Reasons Might be Better Performance, no more Adjusting Issues, etc...

Ha Ha! ... ...Well... I Think Snow Camo Will be Nice Lookin` Too... in My Country is not Legal to Own any Vehicle Painted in Camo Scheme, only Military ones are Allowed... Could you Post Pics of your Subie`s Paint Job? ... I do Car Paint Jobs Too, so any Question is Welcome. Good Luck!

Yes, I Know that This Shall be Posted in the "Subaru Stuff Wanted" and it is There Already since Long time Ago... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80570 The Fact is That I Have Many Subie Parts for Trade that are Posted There with Pics, Descriptions, etc... Many of them are New, Still Packed in their Subaru Boxes... and mainly are Parts for EA71 and EA82 Subies. I Just Want the Rear Disc Brakes Complete Set, for the FWD Subaru Loyale Wagon... ... I`m Posting Here it, Because There are More People visiting here than There, and Also Some Ideas about that Swap Could be Posted Here. Any Help about a Rear Disc Brakes Swap on a 1985 FWD EA82 Loyale Wagon will be Greatly Appreciated. Also I Need -Due to the Lack here, of Good Quality Air Filters for Webers- an Air Filter Adaptor for Weber Carbs, that allows the Use of the EFI Filters... I Know I Saw it Somewhere... Anyone Knows the Link? Thanks, Best Regards. JesZeK

Do you Have more Info About That? ... Procedures, Pics, etc? ... Thanx!

Well... Mine Too... Thanx!

I Think that the Wires are Capable to do That, Remember that they send Only one Live Wire (+) to the Bulbs, the High / Low Beam Switch only chooses which Groung (-) is on. But I Believe that it not Only will lead to Burn Bulbs Twice Faster... I Believe it may lead to Other Problems, Sooner or Later, due to Bulbs`s Heat. At Least in Theory: a Twin Filament Bulb which is Not Designed to use Both at the Same Time, If they`re On Simultaneously, it will Increase the Bulb`s Heat and That Heat will Travel from the Bulb to its Base and the Inmediate Wires... so it Might Melt the Bulb`s Base (I Guess it on Prologed Periods, like a Night Travel of more than an Hour) and the Bulb`s Plug & Wires; Then Like a Domino`s Effect: if the Bulb`s Base Melts, Moisture can get Inside the HeadLamp... And if the Wires` Plastic Cover Melts (I Think it is very Difficult to Happen, but its Possible) a Short Circuit can Happen... if the Bulb don`t Explode First... ... So I Believe the Problem with it, is the Bulb`s and its Plug & Nearby Wires Capabilities to Handle Around Twice Wattage & Heat. I Think It might be a Good Idea for Very Short Time Use Only.

... But Certainly, there are Some out There ... I Have Two Subaru Loyales, Both are Wagons, the Cleanest Lookin` One is the Yellow Wagon, `cos the White One is my Everyday Warrior. Here Goes a Couple of Pics of my Yellow one: (...I think it is "BadAss" Too...) Newer Pic, Featurin` Golden Stripes & Bigger Brighter UnderBumper Halogens ... I Know Someone who Already have a Pink Impreza: That`s the Colour you Like, isn`t it?

Pics Please! To Keep my Subie`s Axles Alive for More Time, I Do a Simple Trick: Before Close Turns (Like "U" Turns) I Give to the Subie Enough Impulse and Press full to the Floor the Clutch Pedal, Before the Turn; So it will Turn Without Giving Stress to the Axles... Then After the Turn is Done, I bring Back the Clutch Pedal, and Accelerate when Wheels are Straight Again. It Helps a Little for Sure.

The Last Step is to Fix Each Relay one Next to Another, leaving enough Space Between 'em to keep cool Air Flowin' Thru ... They get very Warm when the Car is Runnin' (or Key is in "ON" Position) Because they go On with ignition. I believe that it is Good Idea to Keep the Subaru's positioning idea, letting the "Unknown" Relay and the A/C Main Relay between the Left & Right HeaLamp's Relays, 'cos those trend to be Cool while not in use; so the Headlamp's Relays Won't "Share" their Heat with Each Other, increasing it. I'll get some long enough Piece of Metal and Drill in it the Four Holes to Hold to it Each Relay, Separately with a Screw. For Now I'll Leave 'em hangin' Like This: For One Week, Untill Next Weekend, to Test 'em and Watch their Behavior. For now, They're Workin' Very Good!

Well... After the Relay`s Swap, and Lights Workin` Properly; I am Still Curious about to Know How is the Experience that other Loyale Drivers Have with H.I.D.`s ... Some USMB Members Have Done that Swap some Time Ago... I`ll Like to Know their Experience Driving with H.I.D.`s During all this Time... Thanx!

Good News:.. ...The Problem is Fixed!!! Last Sunday I`ve Changed Both HeadLamps` Relays. I Was Searchin` for Information about How to Do That, but Since I Have did it Before (With the A/C & Power Windows Relays) Long Time Ago, I Did it. I Didn`t Found any Info about, so I Did a Huge Write Up about All the Relay`s Understanding & Procedures, Fully Loaded with Pictures & Drawings to make it Easy to Understand & to Do; I Think it may Help Anyone with Relay / Electrical Problems in their Subies. It is Located at the USRM Pending Approval... for now it is the Link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90403 That`s How I`ve Fixed the Relay`s Problem... I Have Made Another Write Ups to the USRM, but this one is Enterely Made Yesterday, in "Real Time" Getting the Pics While Working. Now my Subie`s Lights are Very Brilliant (Like a New Car) and I Checked the UnderSteerin` Computer`s Behavior: its Red Led Light Stops Blinking with Engine Running, it Just Blinks Before Start the Engine. I Guess it is "Normal" `cos Everything is Workin` Fine. I`ve Noticed that the Subie`s Original Relays (When they was Working Properly) are Permanently Warm While Car is On (Runnin` Engine or just Key in ON Position) so the New Bosch ones do that Too. I Guess it is Normal, `cos Those Relays Engage when Key is in ON Position, even with the Lights` Main Switch Off. I Hope the Relay`s Swap Write Up might be Helpful...

To Change the Subie's Plugs, Cutting off the Old one, Welding the New One: First: Do a Simple "Test" with the Voltage Tester, to Find the permanent Live Plug, it Shall Goes to the Pin Nº 30, then Test each Wire turnin' On and Off the HeadLamps Switch to Find the Other Wires and their Locations; then Simply put the New Relay in the New Plug, and simply slide its Wires into the Subie's Old Plug, so you can Test if it Works Properly Before Cutting the Wires. See How I Tested my New Relay Before Cutting the Wires: I I Did Found Correctly Each Wire's Pin, so it Worked Great! I Marked Each Wire function with Written Masking Tape. Then Cutting and Welding with a Soldering Gun Using Rosin Core, Non-Ferrous tin, Each Wire, ...One by One... ... Cuttin', Weldin' and Isolatin'... ...One by One... That is How it Looks Like Now: The Two Yellow Plugs has the New Bosch Standards, Holding Bosch Relays for the HeadLamps; They Works Great! ...Now my Subie's HeadLights are Brighter than Ever (Just like a New Car) also the instrument cluster lit brighter too! During Those Relays Swap, I Discovered many Things on my Subie, one is that the Two MainHeadLamps' Relays Always turns On when you Turn the Key to the On Position (When the Car's Engine is Running Too) Even if you have the HeadLights Switch Off ... ... So They're Hot whenever the Car is On. That is Because Subaru Designed the Outside Wires (the Lamps` Wires) to Have the Possitive (+) Wire -the Middle One on Each Bulb's Plug- Always On; the Main HeadLights Switch just Turns On or Off the Ground for the HeadLights; so the Main Key Controls their power ... That's Why the HeadLights goes Off if you turn your Subie's Engine Off, even with the HeadLights' Switch in "ON" Position. Another Thing that I Discovered is How the Subaru's Relays are Wired, I made a Drawing of the Base of a Factory Round relay, so You can Easily understand the Wirings and Swap those Old Roundie Relays with Standard Bosch Relays, it will Improve Electrical Things' Performance. This Drawing I Made, shows you the Round Relay's Base: Now I Can Enjoy my 9104 Rally Bulbs at Fully Power! Warnings! Remember: Use this Ideas at your Own Risk, Please be Sure that You've understood Well All the Instructions Before Proceed; Also if you Haven't Used a Soldering Gun / Iron Before, Call a Friend or Someone with Enough Experience; 'cos Bad Use of it may cause Serious Burning on the Skin and the Car's Plastics... etc. If you Don't Want to Weld the Wires, I Don't Suggest to Cut Any Wire; Because an Unwelded Wire can Cause Serious Problems, due to Bad Contact (Corrosion, Dew, etc) Short Circuits, etc... Sooner or Later, in such case you can obtain Adaptors that has in one end a fitting socket for the Subaru's Round Relay terminal, and in the Other side, a fitting Socket for the Bosch Standard Relay.

Understanding Relays: A Relay is a ByPass of Power, to Remotely Switch On / Off an Accessory. A Standard Bosch Relay have Four Pins (There are Five Pins Versions Too, but That will be Explained soon) the Pins are Named: Nº 30 = Fused Permanent Hot Line (+) input, Always On. Nº 87 = Line Out (+) to Power the Accesory. Nº 86 = Ground (-) (Could be Used as Signal to Power on or off the Accesory in Negative Switching install, when the Nº 85 has permanent Power) Nº 85 = Possitive (+) (Could be Used as Signal to Power on or off the Accesory in Positive Switching install, when the Nº 86 has Permanent Ground) So Pin 30 (+) Pass the Power to Pin 87 (+), when Power is Applied to Pins 85 (+) and 86 (-) Is Important to Know that Since Pins 85 and 86 are the Remote Switch Signal, you can Remove the Permanent Ground (-) at Pin 86 and connect it to a Switching Ground; Leaving the Pin 85 (+) Permanent, Always On (you can Connect it Directly to the Same Wire that comes to the Nº 30 Pin that is Always On Too, That's how a Three Wires' Relays Works) so you can Control the Relay sending Just a Ground (-) Signal, instead a Possitive (+) Signal. Pin connections are as follows: ► Pin 85 : and ► Pin 86 : Those are your Switching control inputs: Applying 12 volts (+) to one side and ground (-) to the other will cause the relay to activate or "Turn On" (actually, these relays will activate with as little as 8 volts, but that's another story for a much more detailed discussion). Polarity is not important here and you can put your switching signal either in the power side or the ground side, depending on what you're doing; generally though, you usually apply power (+) to pin 85 and ground (-) to pin 86, but this is not really important. One technical thing you need to do here though, if you install a relay through the power of electronic sensitive devices, get yourself a 1N4001 diode (or any 1N4000 series diode), install it across pins 85 and 86 with the band side toward the positive connection. It will act as a surge protector in a way (the coil creates a magnetic field which turns back on itself when power is removed, creating a power surge of little current but high voltage which can damage devices in the circuit if left alone). ► Pin 30: Is the high current 12V (+) input, either directly from the battery (fused, of course) or from an ignition or accessory circuit output from your ignition switch (also fused). In some cases, pin 30 is used for output instead of input, but we won't discuss that here since it doesn't apply to basic wiring. ► Pin 87: Is the 12V (+) power output to the device that you want to power up when the relay is activated (when you press the horn button, for example). Important Note: in the Five Pins Relays, You'll Find an "87A" Pin: That Pin 87A: (the A is for Alternative) is only used if you need power to flow through the contacts when the relay is NOT powered up, which means the switching signal is in "off" (such as a starter kill in an alarm harness) or if you are diverting power from one place to another by activating the Relay (for example, if you are using the relay as a headlight Low / High beams switch). So When Relay is Off, the Permanent Power from Pin Nº 30, will Flow to the Pin Nº 87A; and when Relay is On, the Power from Pin Nº 30 will Flow to the Pin Nº 87 as Usual in Four Pin Relays. Warning! - Please Note that Four and Five Pins Relays Looks like the Same, they got the Same Pin Numbers too, but their Pins are Located at Different Places, so if you Pull a Four Pin Relay from its Plug, you can put a Five Pins Relay There, but the Five Pins one Will Not Work there at All or do a Short Circuit: Be Careful!

► Power Windows' Relay: (Only One) It is Located Under the Front Passenger's Seat, Under the Carpet, Near to the Door's Opening. To Work Properly you'll need to Remove the Plastic Carpet Retainers near the Door Opening, and move Up the Carpet. I Suggest to Remove the Whole Seat to have Enough Working Space to make it easier to cut the Old Plug and Weld the New Plug's Wires to the Subie's Wires, then Putting on the New Bosch Relay. Do Not Forget to cover Properly and Separately Each Welded Wire with Good Electrical insulator Tape, Then Cover all Wires with said Tape too. Changin' the Round Original 22 Amps Relay, with a 40 Amps Bosch Standard one there, Gave me a Better \ Powerfully / Faster Responding "Happier" Power Windows! _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ ► The A/C Relays: (Those are Three) - The Main Relay is Located Behind the instrument Cluster, under the Dashboard, above the Fusible Box, so you must remove said Fusible Box and the lower part of the dashboard (under the Steering Column) to reach it. (it is Placed Next to other three identical relays which I'll describe soon, in other parts of this writeup, So continue Reading) The A/C Main Relay receives the signal from the A/C Switch and sends Power output to the Blower in the Dashboard and also sends power "on" signal to the Other Two Auxiliary Relays, outside, in the Engine Bay. - The Two Auxiliary Relays are Located in the Engine Bay, Behind the Passenger's Side Strut Tower, under the Windshield's Base; They Receive the Power signal from the A/C Main Relay as described above, and one of them sends the Power to the A/C Condenser's Fan (Next to the Radiator's Fan) while the other one, sends the Power to the Compressor's Electromagnetic Clutch, in order to Keep it Engaged. I Changed the Position of the two A/C relays on the engine bay, from "Exposed to Humidity and Heat" on behind the passengers' side strut tower, to "Hiding and Safe" inside a black Box, in front of said strut tower, see: The Air Conditioneer is Very Needed Here, in my Country (Honduras); but Not due to the High Temps at Summer, it is Needed due to the Very long Stormy Wheather Season, to keep the Windshield Glass Clean while Downpour outside; so it is Needed for Safety while Driving During RainStorms. Before I changed those A/C Relay, it was Acting like This: When you Switched it "ON", the Outside Fan and the Main Compressor Worked along the Inside Blower, then after some Seconds, the Outside things Stopped to Work, keeping "ON" the Inside Blower only, or sometimes Everything quit to Work, and if you Switched it Off, it will Never turn "ON" Again, untill many Minutes Passed away, or even Untill the Next Day ... ... So I Swapped the Main A/C Relay, and the two Auxiliary Relays for the A/C with 40 Amps Bosch Standard Units, (Along with the Plugs as I Said Before) and since I did That, the A/C is Working Fantastic! ... ... Flawlessly, it Engages Faster and Holds On Stronger! _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ As I wrote above, there are Four (4) Relays Behind the instrument Cluster, under the Dashboard, above the Fusible Box, to Find the Under Dash's Relays, First you Need to Remove the Plastic Covers (Above the Pedals) and Then Remove the Whole Fuses Box, Looking Straight Above the Fuses Box, Behind the SunGlasses Tray, You'll See the Relays Hanging there, each one held in place by a Metallic Holder, just in the same way that the Fuel Filter is Held Near the Gas Tank. Here you can see the Removed Plastic Base for the Stock Round Relays from my Subaru "BumbleBeast", along one of those Round Relays, the one which is the A/C Main Relay, also notice that I cutted the wires, so it came along its Socket: this is How the Main A/C Relay Looks Like Already Swapped with that 40 Amps Bosch Standard Relay, Next to the Remaining three Original Subie's Round Relays: Yes, That's my Hand Holding 'em! _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ ► The HeadLamps Relays: (Those are Two) They have Identical Wires and they Work Interconnected. Please note that EACH ONE HAS TWO FUNCTIONS: - The Left Relay is for the Driver's side (Left) HeadLamp AND the instrument cluster's background Lights (its power out line have a black wire with Red stripe) - The Right Relay is for the Passenger's Side (Right) HeadLamp AND the Blue Lights Indicator of the High Beam at the instrument cluster (its power out line have a black wire with Yellow stripe) Remember: Both Headlamps' Relays Work Together! So if the Left Relay Fails, the instrument cluster Background Lights will go Off or Dim, along the Driver's Side HeadLamp going -Almost- Off (too Dim), while if the Right Relay Fails, the High Beams blue lights Indicator at the instrument cluster will go off or Dim, along the Passenger's Side HeadLamp going -Almost- Off (too Dim). Before Startin' to Cut Wires like Crazy ... ... I Kindly Suggest You to Obtain a Voltage Tester, like this one that I Have: Now You Need to Understand First, How a Relay Works; Then you Need to Find the Right Wires for Each Relay Pin, and Everything will be Just Fine!

In This Writeup: ► Understanding How a Relay Works. ► Knowing which Wire is for, at the Round Relays. ► How to Swap the Old Worn Relays with Newer, more Capable ones. ► Finding the Location of the Relays on a Subaru EA82 (Third Gen Leone / Loyale) ► Learning to Wire New Relays if Desired... in case you wanna Run Halogens, Bigger Horns, etc... ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ First of All: I Hope this Write Up will Help anyone with Electrical Problems due to bad Relays, Such as Power Windows, Air Conditioneer, HeadLamps, Halogens ...etc... also you'll learn how a Relay Works and How to Easily Wire New Relays. You Know that when you Switch Almost Anything Electric in your any car There is a Relay Takin' the Main Job of Sending the Power to the Accesory you Switched On; the Switch that you Touch or Handle, is just a "Remote Control Signal Sender" to those Relays. Very Long Long Time Ago, I had Problems with my Subarus' Electric Powered Windows, and then Long time ago with the Air Conditioneer too, I Found that the Fault of Slow Workin' / Non Workin' Power Windows was due to a Bad Relay; Also The good ol' subies had A/C Engaging & keep workin' Compressor Problems. An Easy Fix Would be to Just Change the Round Original 22 Amps Relay, But Those Relays aren't Easy to Find, They Need the Whole 12V Power to engage Properly, they are Expensive, and they are only 22 Amps Rated ... ... Beside that at this point of the wirings' life, their Sockets (Plugs) Could be burnt too... In my Own humble opinion, the Best Solution of All is to Swap There Bosch Standard Relays. I've Done it to the Main A/C Relay, the Two Auxiliary A/C Relays, the Power Windows' Relay, and the two HeadLamps Relays. I'll Explain How To do that swap Here, with Photos. Bosch Standard Relays comes in Many Quality Brands, Not Only Bosch (By the way, I Saw Bosch's Made in Portugal, Germany and Brazil, rated at different Amps) There are many Other Brands that Make the Bosch Standard relays, like Hella, Wagner, Flösser, Osram, Sylvania, Potter & Brumfield ... etc ... so They are Easy to Find, They are Cheaper than stock round relays, and Give Better / Faster Response; they just need as Little as 8 Volts to Engage, also Bosch Standards are more Reliable, and are Rated from 30 Amps to 40 Amps, so They'll Last Longer too ... ... Warning! - Please Forget about Cheapo bad quality relays. In Example, This is a photo of a "Potter & Blumfield" 40 Amps Relay, Made in USA, The one that I've Swaped in, instead the Main A/C Relay Under the DashBoard: But to Swap a Bosch Standard Relay in your Subie, You'll Need to Cut off the Subie's Plug and Weld there a Bosch Standard Plug ... Or use an Adaptor. I'll Explain How to do That Too, is Easier than you Could Imagine, but keep Readin' Carefully, and Do Not Forget to Remove one of the Battery Terminals prior to Start Cutting / Welding any Wire. Please: Be Careful While doing this, follow this instructions at your own Risk. The Plugs' Swap is needed to be Done just once for each Relay Unit; then in the Future if you Need to Change any Bosch Standard Relay, the Plug Stays, you only Need to Pull the old Relay from it, and put there a Fresh New Relay; and That's it!

Well... ...Thank You! ... I Didn`t Knew the B.S. Meanin`

Might be a Foolish Suggestion, but Sometimes the more Simple Li`l Things can Cause Huge Problems: Have you Checked the Tires / Tire Balance \ Tire Damage and their Air Pressure? if your Subie Sat for 10 Years, your Subie`s Tires Maybe are a Li`l Bit "Squared" at this Time. So I Suggest to Check `em First. Good Luck!

I Found It !!! I Removed the Plastic covers under the Dash (Over the Pedals) and Removed the Whole Fuses Box; Searchin` there, between the Wires` "Spaghetti", I Found two Things: - The First one: the Under Steerin` Computer -Yes, the one that is supposed to Have a "Blinkin` Red LED Light" Flashing Diagnostic Codes- isn`t Blinkin` Anymore! - The Second One: Lookin` Up, behind the SunGlasses` Case, Up from the Fuses Box, I Found Three Round Relays. Each one had the Nippon Denso Logo (ND) and got Four Pins, its Number is 056700-5260 Those are "Standard" in our Loyales... 12V / 22A ...Also they say 6E14, and got the Graphic Drawing of the Pins 1 to 2 as Straight (Power Line) and 3 to 4 Switch (Control Line). Some time ago, I did have an electrical Problem with the Air Conditioneer in my Subie. A/C is Extremly Needed here, not for the Hot / Sunny Weathers, I don`t have problems with Weathers, Hot, Cool, Rainy, or any climate at all... A/C is Needed to Keep the Main Windshield Glass Clean During Rain While Driving; so A/C Here is more Used for Safety, so I Keep my White Wagon`s A/C in Good Workin` Condition. Then, I Replaced the Main A/C Relay (Identical to This One) with a Bosch Standard One, and it is Still Workin` Fine. Also I Replaced the Two A/C Relays Located outside, Near the Engine, Down the Windshield, with Bosch`s ones. Some Time Ago, I`ve Replaced with a Bosch Standard one, the Electric Windows` Relay too. Great Solution! Bosch Realays are more Capable (30 or 40 Amps; the ND is just 22) and they are Easy to find here, almost in any Parts Store, so they become an Easy Fix in the Future if they Fail. So I Think that I`ll Swap there Bosch Relays instead to Just Change the Bad one, it Needs to Cut the Subies Original Plug, and Weld a PreWired Standard Relay`s Plug. Let me Explain the Wagon`s Lights Relays Behavior, it may Help anyone with similar situations: I Found Four Relays in that Area, one (Hangin` Around) is the A/C Relay that I`ve Changed Before with a Bosch one. Then Lookin` Up, behind the SunGlasses` Case, Up from the Fuses Box, I Found Three Round Relays, as I Said, they are Hold by a Metallic Hanger, just like the one that Holds the Fuel Filter near the Gas Tank. One Relay at the Left with Thick Wires (Black & Black with Yellow Stripe) one Relay at the Right exact to the Other One, and in the Middle, between `em, is Another Relay, Identical to the others, but with Thinner Green Wires. The Left and the Right ones with Black Thick wires, are the HeadLamp`s Relays, one for each one -at this time, I Don`t know what does the Green Wired one at the Center- I Did Started the Engine, then the Main Lights, everything is Workin` Fine... I Disconnect one of the HeadLights` Relays, the Left HeadLamp Goes -Almost- Off, Along with the DashBoard`s Lights (That is the Problem my Subie`s Having) and if I Disconnect the Other one, the Right HeadLamp Goes -Almost- Off, Along with the Blue Indicator of High Beams at the Dash. So it is a Bad Relay Problem, I will Search for a Pair of Standard Relay`s Plugs that came Already Wired, I`ll Weld the Subie`s Wires to `em, and Put in Bosch -or Flösser Brand- Fresh Relays, and see if the Problem Goes. (I`ll Post Pics, they may Help Someone) I Have another Question for Now: is it "Normal" that the UnderSteerin` Computer isn`t Blinkin` Light Anymore? Thank you for your Patience Reading this Long Post, and for your Kind Help. Best Regards! JesZeK

I Suggest 205. Handling Increases. I Used 205 in my White Wagon Before the Rims Swap (With the Standard Subie`s Rims, and then with the Original Subaru Luxury Rims too, before the Swap) and Now I Still Use 205 in the New Chromed Rims I Got on Both my Wagons. The Chromed Rims have the Same Wide Measurement than the Luxury Subaru Rims (I Don`t Remember Right Now, was it 6.5"?) the Only Difference is that the Chromed Rims are More Possitive, so they came Out a Li`l Bit, and even with 205 the Tires Doesn`t Hit any part in the Front, even with Steerin` fully Turned to any Side and the Possitive Rims I Got. Good Luck!

Thank You GD, You`re So Kind! Right Now I`ll Start Searchin` for the Lights Relay!

205/60R13 are the Best Performers on Still 13" Rims` Subies...

Nice Brat & Very Nice Pictures, I Like it! I Have seen Before those Upper Stickers that says Vertically "BRAT" in Red, but the Lower "TURBO" Ones, Never. What is te Meanin` of: "b.s." ?

Thank you for Answering! Here, Cars are "Left Handed"... I Mean Left Hand Drive (just like U.S.A. and the rest of the Continental America, in Fact, my White Wagon did came New, Running from U.S.A. to Here in 1985; is California Version.) Yes, it is a Great Idea! ... I Was Thinking something alike ... I`ll Try it Tomorrow Morning. Wish me Luck! Specially to Find the Right Replacement Here