Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I've embedded your video above. Also I can't hear a clear thing to be sure what's wrong... That's good advice; check the driveline, let us know the Results. Kind Regards.

To embed a Youtube's video here, see ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152891-recurrent-question-how-to-share-photos-on-your-posts/?do=findComment&comment=1287611

I've more than three decades using Purolator "Classic" oil filters on my Subaru; so in my own humble opinion and my own experience, Purolator gives me the best balance between great performance and little price. However, the oil filter brand and oil brand itself, usually is something that everyone has their own preferences, so starting a debate on which is better than the other, could become like opening a can of worms... The engine will be allright, as long as you use a good quality oil filter, with a good quality motor oil, bearing the proper SAE grade and APi certification for it, in the right amount, keeping an eye to verify that the engine never goes low on oil; and changing that oil and filter on the appropriate intervals. That's it, period. Kind Regards.

Sounds like that. You might start by Verifying the Alternator's Voltage output in different RPM's range. it should not surpass 14V max, nor be lower than 12V min. Kind Regards.

I kindly suggest you to try Valvoline's "Max Life" for High mileage vehicles. Its outstanding performance and extra additives for rejuvenating the Seals, Has proven to be one of the very Best oils I've used. Kind Regards.

As you might see on the video above, it is easier on Carbureted engines; EFi counterparts will need the ECU and Wiring... you could consider the idea to convert your TBi EA82 to Carburetor in order to simplify your Buggy build; basically talking, you'll need a carbureted intake manifold, plus its carb; but the Distributor might require a swap as well. Kind Regards.

By the way, here you can see an Old video, taken years ago, when I did the instrument cluster swap, from no-odometer, to the one that has odometer, which is the one that has the 3X speed issue now:

But what is even weirder, is that the odometer is counting accurate distance miles. I am going to search for another instrument cluster among the Local Junk Yards, and ask them to let me Try it, before purchasing it. My idea is to confirm if the abnormal speed reading issue, is happening in the mere speedometer gauge's system, as I believe... Kind Regards.

...After carefully check it, also check its wirings and plugs; thinking that maybe there's something loose or dirty among the connections... ...and despite that Everything is allright, the Thing still shows 3X faster speed readings.

...checked everything on the instrument cluster...

...Cleansed and Verified all the Wiring and Plugs...

So, I removed the instrument cluster from the Dashboard...

Are you Sure? Look at the inside diameter's Size of the Hoses, If you had read it, you'll find the answer... Kind Regards.

I'm glad that it helped you. Also I was considering to do a R134a conversion on my Subie, but the R12 is still available here, in Latin America. Please keep us updated; Kind Regards.

The purposes of the Relay are (among others) to let the Thick wiring on the engine bay, to bear with the high voltage / amperage \ heat; while you send only a "signal wire" to the interior. Doing that, will elongate the lifespan of the system, including the Switch itself; also the Fuse lines for the circuit remains on the engine bay, adding safety. Kind Regards.

Yes, the California specs: "Feedback" hitachi carburetors on EA82's has Return lines. Please review the post Nº 8 on my Weber Retrofitting Writeup: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/?do=findComment&comment=1027115 There's all the information you might need, regarding Fuel Lines on Weber Swaps done in EA82's. Kind Regards.

I Wish I could afford a newer Subaru, but in that case, I rather prefer the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs, dual range XV... ...in Same Yellow Colour ... ... you know. Kind Regards.

So, besides the lack of enough pressure (which I highly doubt in this case); you might consider a Fail on the Main A/C relay, behind the dashboard, and / or the two secondary A/C relays on the passengers' side strut tower, at the engine bay, as the Cause of this issue; because sadly, this fail is pretty Common on these EA82 / loyales. More information regarding the Relays, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ Kind Regards.

Was the Compressor working with its R12 gas, Before you attempting this R134a gas Retrofitting?

This happened to me on my '69 Coupe, very long years ago, But it has Springs (self sustains up). I straightened the hood, lubricated well the Hinges and added a Reinforcement underneath, by welding one foot long piece of angled steel, of 1¼" X 1¼" X ⅛" to each side, underneath the hood; then I painted it. Never had the issue happening again, so far... Kind Regards.

Of course, more information could be Read, here: ~► http://blog.caranddriver.com/2017-subaru-brz-series-yellow-is-really-really-yellow/ Kind Regards.

So, Subaru is doing a Limited Edition of the Subaru BRZ, in my kind of Yellow Colour, the "Sunrise Yellow" Have you seen it? Here's your newest Wallpaper! ... ...

Could you, Please, share Photos + Details regarding such adaptation? Sounds pretty interesting. Kind Regards.

Yes, that's true ... ... Kind Regards.