Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Now I saw the Link to the "Rice / Stock \ Redneck" Diagram ...

I´m Confused / Lost in Translation: Rice is a Cereal Food, so What´s the Meanin´ to Use that word on a Car´s Look? Well... I Think that those Hood Pins makes your Subie more "Personalized", (As we say Here), so more Unique, or More "Your Own Way" I really don´t Like the Idea but I don´t think that they are Ugly, or make Uglier looks... No, I just think that is a Personal Preference. Also you did a Well Done Work installin´ Them. I Like the Seat Covers Look!

I've received lots of Questions regarding the Weber Carburetor retrofitting, via Private Messages and e-mail, so I am now gathering all the information and Photos of the procedures I did, and will share everything here, @ USMB, on a Writeup regarding the Subject. Kind Regards.

Well... I Already Checked the Timin´ Belts and seems to be in Good Position... ...Also, the Fartin´ Problem Occurs only when the car is on Load (I Mean, Drivin´ it, not in Neutral Position) when Engine is on 4K Rpm´s and I Press the Gas Pedal to the Buttom, so, if I leave it an inch Before the Buttom, the Engine Reaches 5K+ without a Problem, but without much power... (Slowly) How I can Fix that? ... What´s Happenin´? is a Dirty Carb Problem? Shall I put a Half Gallon of Kerosene in a Full Gas Tank? Thanx for your Help! - JesZeK

I Agree... Absolutely Too Bad... :-\ ...

I Suggest you to visit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=50 for Ideas & Tips.

I forgot to say that Loyales came with a "Different-than-any-car" Stereo Setup, let me Explain: All the Four Speakers´ Wires got their Positives (+) independent, you can Find ´em on the Stock Plug. Negatives (Ground or -) are a Different Story: the Negatives are Just one Common Wire for each Pair, For Example: Rear Left & Rear Right Shares one Wire for the Ground (-). Someone I don´t Remember did post that Factory has installed All Independent Wires for All Four Speakers, and Near -Down- the Main Plug, the Negatives are United in one wire, so it Might be Easy to Separate ´em and use a New Plug "Correctly Wired" to use Independent Wires for Each. Why? ... Well... if you use "Mixed" Wires, Newer Stereo Units Shall Stop Workin´ and might burn their Output Circuit, due to it´s Fader config. Old units can work, but some issues may happen, along to the Increased Resistance Ohms that can damage the unit too. I didn´t knew that Subaru did put all independent Wires and tied together the negatives, at the time I make the Instalation, so I did put a new wires for the Ground, along with a new Plug that use all the Pins / Connection independent. (Taken from a Isuzu P´up) I can make and Upload here, a Hand Drawin´ of the Original Subie Wires´ Plug and the Meanin´ of Each pin, if you want.

Of Course! it is my Wooden Setup, Painted like the Dash... ...I´m Glad you Like it! , I Cut the Shifter too Congratulations! Nice & Well Done Work you Did! ... I Like it!

The best way for me, is to Disconnect the Main Fuel Line from the Intake, and Place it on a Empty Can, then turn ingnition "ON" but not to Start Engine (Just to "Red Lights" on the Dashboard) and the Pump will give around 10 Ounces of Fuel, then it will Stop automatically. if You Turn Back the Key to "OFF" and then Again to "ON" Position, the Pump will give other Similar Amount of Fuel. but it Certainly Shall Stop after some seconds, Around 20. Why? ... Because the Pump is Designed to do That... it in some way, "Feels" that the Engine isn´t Running, and Quit Sendin´ Fuel. but if it Deliver Fuel, it is O.K. so, its "Normal" to the Pump to Stop when Engine is Stopped. With that Li´l Amount of Fuel Given, your Engine Shall Start, if Not, I Suggest you to Search in other Part for the Cause of the Problem. Good Luck!

Yes! True, That´s the Way we Did that... I didn´t Know about the "Special Tool" ...

is Just a Dog...

Thanx!

Beautyful Subies!

Just two Questions Before: What is PCCB? D.O.T. 4 is Suitable for D.O.T. 3 Designed Systems? Good Luck!

Oh my God!... Poor Dog!

Check Ignition Timin´ it shall be Around to 20º (~2º)

Well... I Agree. But Isn´t for the EA82´s Hydro Lifters, "Usual" to make Some Noise, Sometimes? I think that if it Goes, Maybe they´re Just Wear but Still work Fine, Remember that there are other Engine Parts Involved in the Tickin´ Sound, Not only the Lifters. Which Kind of Oil are Usin´ that Engine?

Over the Main Brake Pump? ... I think you´re Writin´ About the Computer Control System... (ECU) ...The one that Lies under the Steerin´ Column... (Yes, the one with Flashin´ Red Light - Those are Codes for Diagnose) ...Those Connectors are for System Check... I Suggest you to Don´t Play with ´em... Also, to be Sure about ´em, you can Post a Pic about.

Just Use the Better D.O.T. 3 Brake Fluid you can and Don´t Forget to Purge the System out of Air Twice at Least... Remember to Start from the Passenger´s Side Rear Wheel, then the Driver´s Side, then Passenger´s Side Front, and Last the Driver´s Front Side. Why Twice? ... Well... Since the intrincate nature of the Pipes, and the Hill Holder System, is Easier to get some Air on the System than other Cars... Good Luck!

Also, Your Subie is Carbed or F.I.? If it´s Carbed, it Sounds like a Disconnected Secondary Vacuum...

EJ25? ... I think this Thread Should be Better in "New Generation of Subarus"

Thanx!

Nice Subie! ... What do you Plan to do with it?

Remember: There´s a "RS" Designation of that Coupes, and "Omega" too...

I suggest you to Use the NGK´s BPR6EY11... the ones with the "Y" Cut... Those Work Great on EA Engined Subies...