Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I've read about using ATF on Manual Transmissions, but I bet that such custom could shorten their lifespans due to the increased shearing; unless ATF is indicated as the proper Oil for a Manual Transmission, like certain Mitsubishi Eclipses, on which I've worked. Kind Regards.

Despite its Higher price, Motul with MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) has paid for itself, because I change it after longer periods of time, and it saved my 5 speed Manual transmission / differential on my "BumbleBeast" after the horrid Sabotage it suffered, some time ago. The MoS2 managed to leave a film that protected the moving parts from shearing, despite the added liter of water. And also, it solved the Hard shifting to first gear, on a Ford Ranger; and other similar issues like noises, etc... on the cars on which I've used Motul, elongating the Transmissions and differentials Lifespan; but it has to be the Motul with MoS2, not the regular one. Kind Regards.

I did not know that Motul oils are that expensive in the USA, here in Honduras, Motul is being sold at competitive prices, only a little higher than the regular oils; I believe it is because the commercial agreement with Europe = Lower tax rates; also we have similar agreements with USA, Mexico and Canada. Sorry for the off topic info. I have no personal experience with Royal Purple, but I have readed wonders regarding its friction modifiers, so Also I can suggest you to use that oil; however, you must consider that almost any Gear oil, classified as GL-5 and having the proper SAE grade, will suffice for the application, if you change it on a Regular Basis. Kind Regards.

Thank you! I understand that statement. A hotter spark isn't needed in regular conditions. In my case, I wanted a Hotter Spark / advance further the ignition timing, because I upgraded the Regular Hitachi "Feedback" carburetor, on my EA82, with a 32/36 "Progressive" Weber carburetor, and somehow I felt that a hotter spark will manage better the difference in Air / fuel mixture on the RPM's range... and it did it; the Accel "Superstock" ignition coil, plus augmenting the ignition timing from 8º to 20º (Carbureted EA82 should be at 8º +/- 2º while Fuel Injected EA82 shall be at 20º), made a small, but noticeable difference in the overall engine's performance, in different aspects, including the exhaust smoke, that came cleaner. Kind Regards.

I agree with crazyeights, but not exactly about the current draw, but about the Resistance Ω values, which are very important, to avoid a premature fail of the ignition module; you know, the module is designed to work at certain resistance from the coil; if you change it with a lower resistance or higher resistance, it will directly reduce the lifespan of the ignition module. Reducing the Resistance from the ignition coil, is like switching from regular bulbs to LED bulbs on your blinkers, they'll start to blink faster due to the lower resistance; but in the case of the ignition module, it will deliver the signal in a non proper way, which might lead to receive feedback somehow, due to the lack of enough resistance, and that damages the ignition modules for sure, and let you stranded in the middle of nowhere... Regarding the ignition Coil's resistance values, as far as I know, the "Nippon-Denso" distributors are more permissive than the "Hitachi" distrubutors, found on EA81 and EA82 engines. Also I run my "BumbleBeast" with an Accel Superstock yellow "High Vibration" ignition coil, but made in USA, since many, many years ago, and the thing runs Flawlessly, but the current draw / resistance values of it, are very close to the stock ignition coil, for my "Nippon-Denso" distributor, on the EA82. Further information and resistance values, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1106258 Kind Regards.

Welcome! It will depend on what exactly you want to do with it. Lowering? ... Lifting? ... Increasing Power? Bodywork only? ... Kind Regards.

Are you Sure that the PCV lines are routed properly, and averything is hooked as it should?

I switched cars with my Wife, so I delivered my Little Daughter this early morning to her School, on the "KiaStein" and I made this short video with my small cellphone (my little daughter is whistling in the Background), you can see that the First gear almost reached 70 MPH (according to the Speedometer), then shifted to Second gear; we were just leaving home (That's why the engine was still cool).

I did an instrument cluster Swap, years ago, in order to have Tachometer on the "KiaStein" but, two years ago, I gave the original instrument cluster to an old man, who is a grandfather of a classmate of my daughter at the school; he also has a Sephia but LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) specs (1.6L engine + Manual Trans), its instrument cluster was dead... Now I wish I would have kept that original instrument cluster, but the old man asked for it, and I can't live being egoist...

Congratulations!!! Have they included some nice subaru stuff to accompany the Membership? Kind Regards.

Since your GL has the EA82 engine on it, I kindly suggest you to carry a spare Timing Kit, and learn how to change the Timing Belts on these engines; in my case, I run them Coverless to facilitate a lot the timing procedure. Kind Regards.

Update: Today's early morning, we noticed that the Speedometer's needle climbs slowly by itself, to almost 40 MPH right after starting the engine and letting it at idle, to reach its normal operating temperatures, prior to start using the car... So, you can see the Needle pointing 40 MPH while the Automatic Shifter and its indicator light, are on "P" position. The Speedometer's needle goes back to Zero, right after moving (Driving) and stopping the car, completely; but still continues to have that weird 3X faster reading behaviour. The Trip Meter and the Odometer are working good; also the VSS is alright. Time to remove and inspect the instrument cluster, perhaps? Any idea regarding this issue, will be Welcome. Kind Regards.

So tonight, I tested her "KiaStein" and immediately I noticed the abnormal climbing of the Speedometer's needle, on the instrument cluster; as the vehicle gained speed, the needle shown around 60 Mph, when the Car was really doing around 20 Mph. She was Right, something pretty weird is Happening to the Speedometer. And even weirder is the fact that there was no Check Engine light, lit on the instrument cluster. I attached to the Car my OBDII Scanner: No codes were found. Furthermore, the Actual vehicle's speed was shown completely accurate on the Scanner: I drove the "KiaStein" with the Scanner attached, and the Speedometer's needle at the instrument cluster, showed triple the Speed than what was shown by the Scanner. Also, I noticed that the Odometer and the Trip meter were working accurately: I did a usual four miles long round trip to the gas Station. I checked the VSS state and connectror / wiring, everything is alright. Even I tested the Alternator, Battery and charging system; everything is in good working order. I've never experienced a situation when the mere Speedometer suddenly starts to read faster than the actual vehicle's speed. What could be going on? This instrument cluster is completely electronic, doesn't has Cables attached, only wirings's terminals. Kind Regards.

Also, the whole instrument Cluster was changed as well:

As you might have read on previous posts of this Thread: I Changed the VSS on mid 2012.

She scared me ... ... then, she replied again: "Seems like the Speedometer is reading triply Faster than the actual speed. See you in the Evening"

In another subject, today I received a cellphone message, from my Wife: She said: "Seems like I was speeding on the Highway" I replied: Really? ... ... How much? She replied: "Around 135, maybe a little more" I replied: Say What? !!! Then, She sent me this Photo, on a message:

Also, I agree with that. Maybe, seeing / reading too many lift threads, might lead him to think that it was a much easier Job. Kind Regards.

Could you, please, share more information and photos about that "Approved" kit? Sounds pretty interesting; I only knew about "Approved" lift kits for the first gen Leone wagons, during the 1970's decade, but not for the third gen ones. Kind Regards.

Let me show you a photo of the front blocks that I have on my "BumbleBeast" see: Kind Regards.

So, you're trying individual blocks for each stud. In my own humble opinion, is better idea to use a single, big Block for all the three studs, so the protruding center of the strut, hides inside it, instead.

Consequences of not fixing the P-0128 Phantom Code Since the ECU believes that the engine has not reached its normal operating temperature, the Fuel / Air mixture is adjusted improperly almost all the time when the Check Engine light is lit due to this Code; which gives the first consequence: ► Unnecessary waste of Fuel, due to the increased fuel usage; you'll notice it mainly if you drive frequently on Stop and Go traffic jam conditions; your small, four cylinder Kia will become a Gas Guzzler, and your fuel usage will be closer to a V6 or even a V8 car on same circumstances. The Second consequence is directly derivated from that first one: ► Too much carbon deposits on the combustion chamber; you'll notice that when you pull the Sparkplugs, and they comes pretty badly fouled... (That's the reason why I did the Seafoam spray cleansing procedure, shown in the Video above) The waste of fuel and the excess of carbon deposits on combustion chambers, have their own downsides, like damaged catalytic converters, hot spots on said chambers, oxygen sensors getting worn faster... etc. So, I kindly suggest to all owners of the second gen Sephias and first gen Spectras, that are affected with this issue, to take their cars to their local Kia dealers, in order to get the ECM flashed and the necessary updates loaded, before throwing dollars on the money pit of different thermostats, thermoswitches and temperature sensors, unnecessarily. I hope that you'll find this information, Useful. Kind Regards.

Finally, the issue was addressed by Kia, due to the repeated P-0128 "unfixable code" problem, reported on many second gen Sephias and first gen Spectras that shares the T8D engine and its ECU management. The issue was addressed in the "Tech Times" section of the www.kiatechinfo.com website long time ago; But instead of a TSB or a regular recall, it was covered as a Newsletter article; however I have the number of the Document: KT2005022826 The Kia Document KT2005022826 covers that temperature / code P-0128 issue, addressing the problem; and the solution they found is pretty simple: the fix was listed as a Flash of the car's ECM in order to load revised thermostat monitoring logic. That's it. So, a simple Update of the ECU's software should solve this issue, permanently. I already asked for that ECU software update to the personnel at the local Kia dealer, I am still waiting for an answer from them; however during all this years I simply didn't care for the annoying check engine light that comes to visit and goes unexpectedly, like a boring visitor; because I know that nothing very harmful is going on... But there are Two bad Consequences of having this P-0128 Phantom code issue, keep reading ... ...

In my personal case, our "KiaStein" which is a 2000 Sephia that runs with a 2003 Spectra engine and has only one temperature sensor; the Check Engine light comes and goes randomly due to that Temperature being reported as Below specs; since we acquired this car, used; (same behaviour with older engine) and the OBDII shows that infamous P-0128 code. However, the temperature gauge at the instrument cluster, shows a completely normal temperature behaviour, on all circumstances. Despite of having everything great on the cooling system, and despite of trying with different thermostats from 170º F passing to 180 Fº and up to 195 Fº, the check engine light randomly came On and went Off; sometimes it went away for a whole month, sometimes it stayed like forever, and suddenly went Off for a week... and so on... there are days where it goes Off in the morning, and comes back On on the night of the same day. I never liked the idea of having a Thermostat that has an increased temperature than the Thermoswitch on the Radiator; the downsides of using an increased temperature Thermostat, are: ► The radiator's Main Fan could be "On" for more time, because the Thermostat's Temperature will not match the Thermoswitch's Temperature. ► The engine will keep working Hotter for prolongated periods, wich has its downsides, you know. What I did (Which I do Not recommend) is to completely Remove the Thermostat for testing purposes. I removed the Thermostat long years ago because here at the Caribbean Never snows; and I've noticed three things: 1) The same faulty code / same check engine light Behaviour persists identically. With or Without the Thermostat there are absolutely No changes at all. 2) The engine only needs five more minutes on early mornings, to reach its normal operating temperatures, and the Temp needle on the instrument cluster, stays rock solid where it should be during all day long; if the car gets parked for three hours then restarted, it only takes a couple of minutes to be back at normal operating temperatues again. Also it doesn't matter if it is driven on a Hot day on horrid traffic jams, or on freeways at high speeds on Cold days; with or without A/C, the temperature stays where it should be. Never goes too low nor too high... only goes an hair low with A/C during long downhills on cold rainy days... but still the temperature is good. 3) Since the car behaves identically with the standard Thermostat, the Higher temperature thermostat and without thermostat at all; I decided to leave it Without Thermostat since long years ago; the Check Engine Lights still comes and goes Randomly, always on same Temperature code, P-0128.