Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Nice Idea! Do you got the Link to see what you got for Example? I got two Loyales... Maybe I can put them two in one page, if you like...

O.K. ... Since you have checked all Hoses and P.C.V. and all of them are good... I think that I got your answer... But it takes to two choices: First of All, Check the vacuum modulator, maybe it´s suckin´ up the ATF... Then If it´s OK...and everything else is Checked and O.K., then Change the Valvle´s Seals. This Second did work for my EA82 Carbureted GL wagon of 1985... but it´s not cheap. Let me Explain: Each of the eight valves of the Engine, got a Seal, its a sort of "O" Ring, that holds oil out, from the Head... and they´re made to last about 100,000 Miles, or Ten years... due to the fact that seals become Old and Dry with time, and then doesn´t work almost at all... Also: due to the Fact that the Smoke is Comin´ only when engine is Forced... I am 99% Sure that your engine got worn seals... That it!. To change those seals, you´ll need all the Eight New Seals... And both head gaskets. I Really suggest to do a good thing with that engine: buy the entire Seals & Gaskets Kit for EA82, (There are good Japanese Cheap Aftermarket) and change all the worn seals, gaskets, etc... in only one Step... if not, you must do the "Change Thing" one by one, and that way is more expensive, needs more time... etc... So, I suggest that, because in my EA82 did work great! No white or Black or Any visible smoke or Leak at all, and it got 223,000 Original Miles so far... Good Luck!

I´ll Love to Hear that Engine´s Roar through those Pipes...

Lexicon= the Manner that people used to talk between them of the same area, or Friends... I Think From the Word "Léxico" in Spanish that means that...

I think is a Good Idea to Bring us in Honduras, a store of this sponsorship... Here we got only the Subaru Dealer, then a Lot of national aftermarket stores... and Napa and Midas... but Napa and Midas are not good (because their Prices are Extremly High) and national aftermarket sells almost only cheap chinese parts... and some japanese... (I have installed chinese parts that only lasts for three months and other stuff for Subies... maybe if you come here... It`s just a wish... you know... Recently I purchase a Redline - Weber K731 Kit (Complete with 32/36 DEGV Carb. adaptor for EA82, Etc...) that was very difficult to do from here... (You couldn`t Imagine) ...And so, many people here has the same problem findin` parts to their American or American Version Cars (Think about that here, almost 70% of cars in our streets came from U.S.A. by small aftermarket importers) and our Latin American Version parts almost always doesn`t fit the American Version Cars... For Example, here the Subaru Loyale is Called Leone and it came with another complete diferent carburetor, Craptachi, that doesn`t fit my subie... and I did waste money buyin that... People here (In all Central America, and maybe Latin America) do their U.S.A Version cars last, using parts that bring here the "Yonkers" (SpanGlish word for "Junk Yards" ... in some places, are called as "Desarmes" Plural of Disarm in Spanish) So Maybe to open here a store that bring us Good New Parts for our cars, is a very Good Idea... I Think. Best Regards.

Thanks for the Info... You`re Right! I didn`t know that, because here aren`t many EA82 Turbos that came from USA... Central American EA82T (Here came as new Leone) are a li`l bit different... Orange is HOT!

Are those Subaru Originals, or Aftermarket?

Also I forgot to Say this: with the "Actuator" Cable wrong connected, your alternator will bring just one of this two posibilities: High Power Always, or Low Power Always. High power Always can be good just for drivin` almost always with lights and/or AC on... or your battery will overload. Low Power Always can be good just for "Daylight" drivin`... or with lights and / or AC Off... or your battery will discharge fast... *** *** * *** *** I wanna tell ya, that the Integrated Circuit (IC) of my EA82 (That switches between power outputs, you know... ) have failed just two days before I did a trip (About one Month ago) to Managua - Nicaragua (About 1,100 Kilometers) and my battery is only three months old... AC-DELCO. It did "Stuck" in High Power Always... Even with Lights and AC on, the needle on the Dashboard indicates Around 16 Volts... ...I did ran my subie like this since the day that failed because I don`t have enough money to buy a new IC for the Alternator... and bad IC means blown solenoid Resistors (Small silver-rounded devices that control voltage stability... excuse my bad english... My mother tongue is spanish) I was waitin` `till end of may, due to that is my pay day... but my battery awaked "Fried" today... Too Late... TODAY my battery awake damaged... the cells near the positive terminal, are short-circuitin`... I can see "Bubbles" with the car on (Chargin`) so now, I`ll push downhill my subie to start it, untill the end of may... So, be careful with that underpower / overpower situation... I suggest to first install the new alternator and then, with a tester (And the Dashboard voltage indicator) you can be certain if your unit switches good from low to high power under lights on / off situation... Good Luck!

See this Link: http://www.ultraflight.dk/subaru_ea-81_performance_parts.html So, you got two roads to choose: Upgrade your EA Engine, or Swap an EJ Engine... The option is Yours... Good Luck!

I would like to see Pics of That!

Hi! I think that sound comes from the Tire Itself, Due to the Hard Rugged Pattern they have... when the Rubber "Bricks" of the corner of the tire hit the pavement, they made that sound... I got that problem long time Ago... in my Dad`s Truck... he did put on it a "Tractor" tires, they are extremly Noisy on Pavement. I suggest to make you be Sure about that, to drive your car with other Tires... Maybe you got a friend who has another subie and can let you use it`s rims with his Tires on yours just for a while... ...Try to drive it in the same street / road when you hear that noise, and if it still comes, ìs a Ball Bearing, if not, it was the Tire. In that case, you must become accustomed to it... Good Luck!

Any Pics of That? I think this could Help: http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm Good Luck!

Please, Post Pics... I wanna do the Rear Disc Conversion Too... Good Luck!

Yes, but I forgot to Say this: That wire is the "Actuator", I mean is the one that indicates the alternator to switch from half power to full power, like in the past example, with lights off or on, so it was connected to the Hitachi alternator, and now I think is nessesary to connect it to the new unit. Maybe you still got around 13.5 Volts with all electrical stuff on, but if the "Actuator" doesn`t switch the alternator to full power, those 13.5 volts will be with just around half amperes the unit can do. I suggest to search about the new alternator diagram to connect the wires in correct way. I think your new alternator is still with Integrated Circuit built in, like the Hitachi stock one; unless it is from a model of 1979 or older... Those ones got an "External Relay" that regulates how much power the unit brings to the vehicle`s system. (It`s a "Black Box", ussually of 4" x 2") My old Mercury Comet Caliente 1969 got this "External" Regulating Device design, that is why you can see a much brighter light comin` from old american cars under acceleration; Integrated Circuit built in the new Alternators, maintain almost always 13.5 volts, just changes the amount of Amperes to the System, unlike the old "Black Box" that changed both Volts & Amperes. I wish this could help you... Good Luck!

Hi! I have a Thread just about that, I hope it can Help; it got a lot of Pics, specially about plate adapter in EA82; See: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53143 Good Luck!

No. I suggest to be Sure where to Attach it, before you connect it, because of This: The Stock Alternator (Hitachi) -as the Cadi one- got an Integrated Circuit (IC) that regulates how much volts/Amperes (Power) out will deliver the unit, in order to fulfill the requirements of the Car´s Electric System demands, for example: with all lights off, just engine running; the power consuption will be less than in night time, with all ligts on; so this cable lets the unit to deliver less or more power to the battery just when it is needed. Why don´t just connect it to the Battery? Because it could Overload your battery & System. How? Well... too much power getting in the battery all the time, will "Fry" the Battery´s Cells, makin´ your battery to last shorter -maybe Very Shorter- Also, power overload increases in Volts, not just in amperes; so it can "Burn" your Stereo, Headlights or Halogen Bulbs; etc... So, that is why I told ya, to check and be Sure before to connect any Cable, Specially this; or you´ll get one of this two results: System OverLoad, or Poor Power Out... Good Luck!

Yes! Me Too...

Hi! See this Thread!: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53796&highlight=steering+wheel I Think it can Help you!... Personally, I Really LOVE my Subie´s Steerin´ Wheel... So I Really Don´t wanna Change it. But see this Images, Maybe they could help you... Good Luck!

Well... About Coils: I have installed four years ago, in my EA82 an Accel SuperStock 8145HV that has NOT it`s canister filled with oil, it is Epoxy Filled and made in USA, (Not Mexico) that is Called the "High Vibration" Coil ( Read this, interesting: http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_coil/subaru.html ) that delivers 45,000 Volts (Instead of the 27,000 stock) and it`s working soo good. but What are the Advantages? The only two things I have noticed are... First: Using low octane fuels, and the engine timing in 25º there are No Pinging. (With the Subie`s original coil, engine valvles did sound loudly with low octane fuel) so more voltage means more combustion, Simple. Second: The engine idles Soo Smoooth... You know... No "Farting" between gases coming in the exhaust... really, it made my EA82 a Smoother engine. Others claim that acceleration speed increases, it is real, but just a Little bit. About Sparkplugs: I have used Bosch Platinum of four points (I mean the one named "Super Four", see: http://www.automotion.com/Productpage.aspx?pid=101092&name=Bosch+Platinum+4+Spark+Plugs ) And I Remember that my dad did use in this engine the Bosch Super 3 (Now Obsolete) Also I Used "Beru" Brand Ultra X Sparkplugs, (They came here Made in France And Made In Germany) (See: http://www.beru.com/english/produkte/zuendkerzen/ultrax.php ) Also I used: Champion, Autolite, Nippon-Denso, Etc... but I Noticed that: The engine performance becomes Worst with Champion, and stays "Normal" with Autolite, Bosch, N-D, and almost every brand else that fits on a EA82 (Always with Resistor) but I noticed that with the Bosh Platinum and Beru Ultra X, the engine starts faster, (Maybe due to the multipoint spark, or due to the platinum, that has the ability to stay cleaner) But there`s just a very -I Mean VERY- little improvement in performance vith this special spark plugs. I am not tryin` to judge spark plugs quality itself, just the EA82 engine performance with them. The Weird thing I have noticed is that when I use "Normal" NGK Sparkplugs (With Resistor, of Course) the Engine performances Better. So Platinum or not, in the specific case of the EA82, there are almost no diference, just a li`l bit, that maybe don`t worth them. About the Issue on your Engine: I know that it`s not carburated, but it sounds to me like Air/Gasoline mixture troubles... Maybe you can check / clean the sensors... air filter, etc... first, then check spark plug cables, etc... but I think that there is not an electrical problem, just you discovered the coil issue by searchin` for it`s solution. Good Luck!

?

But be Careful with the Exhaust Hole, due to the Fact that Hot gas hitting any part, can damage it fast & Easy, specially with plastics or rubber (Check out if hot gas is not hitting the brake lines... Extremly Dangerous for medium or + trips, or ball bearings) I have installed in my Weberized EA82, all pipes straight, of galvanized HG of 2" (The one normally is used on Water distribution on buildings), without the first catalytic converter "filter" (I mean the point where the left & Right exhaust are connected to do a unique pipe to the rear) it`s only a "Y" and without the other Catalitic Converter Filter (The One that goes near under the shift stick) Also the Muffler is just a wide & big open box, just the in and out pipes aren`t facing each other, but is a open box (I mean without restrictions) I made this with a friend who has a welder, long time ago... the result is that my subie sounds almost like an old american V8, but not too noisy... and engine temp. droped down, due to the almost free exhaust. but it isn`t free at all, because is not good to the engine to have a totally free exhaust. I think your muffler looks good... But I couldn`t imagine how it sounds like...

Any Pics?

Be Carefull with this Wire, or you`ll not get brighter lights and batery will discharge faster.

Yes! me too...

Long time Ago... (It sounds like "Once upon a Time..." anyhow) ...my EA82 got a head gasket leak, it only did the coolin´ system looses water/coolant... it makes engine to overheat very fast, but the car was "Driveable" for shot trips... I mean very short. Then my dad decide to do a around 100 Miles trip... the engine got overheatin´ and dad did open the radiator, and drop right in fresh water (I mean VERY fresh water from wild mountain fount) and it Crack one of the Heads... It was a horrible story, but I already did post it in other thread... You couldn´t imagine my dad comin´ home in it (Where I was Waitin´ and I didn´t knew that) with just two ciliders literally "Boxing" the other two from 72 miles away... ... No Words. I think a Blown head gasket is a "Hurry-Up" repair for EA82´s.