Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Yes! Here in Honduras, with the Extremly High Prices of Fuels (We pay about $ 4.50 Bucks per Gallon of "Premium" -- Unleaded Gasoline) Companies who produce Bio-Diesels and installs LPG systems on almost any car (Even in Diesels) are growing fast. I have seen about two or three Subies (One or two was Loyales, and one was Leoné -EA81- Wagon) working as Taxis with LPG system in Tegucigalpa city (One of the Twin cities that make our Capital) ... I take a ride on one of them, and the driver says it works amazingly... It got a switch which can change fuel on the engine, from normal Gasoline to Lpg "On the Fly". Also, here in Capital City, most Gas Stations sells LPG gas along with standard fuels... It´s a Good Idea to Switch to LPG... Think ´bout it... No harmful toxic contamination... economy... cleaner engine... the "On the Fly" switch to change to normal gasoline in case of low LPG... Etc... The only three things that make me do not switch to LPG Are: First of All: The Weberized EA82 is not mine at all... it´s my Dad´s one, and he dislike the idea at all... (It was hard enough to convince him to change the Craptachi carb to the marvelous Weber) he dislikes specially the fact that we loose too much space on the trunk, and the added Danger. Well about Danger... I asked one of the companies´ technician, and he told me that newer LPG systems, got a Double Wall tanks, with integrated in-tank pressure sensitive valve, that in case it "Feels" too many gas flow -or too much fast- it blocks the out line directly from the tank, inmediately. But still we fear the system a li´l bit... Second: I can´t switch to the LPG system because is Too Expensive... I know i´ll get wonderful savings and more cleaner engine, environment, etc... but I still don´t have enough... Third: My ER 27 Loyale is still in development... I can´t fix the overheatin´ problem... you know... "Normal" Radiator doesn´t fit... so I made a pair of small ones with electric fan... OMG! what a Crap! ... well... as I said... is still in development... So, i´ll wait untill one of my friends who drives EA82 and EA81 subies, do the Switch before, and I wanna do the comparison "Test Drive" my self... Maybe, one day... Good Luck!

I made the White Metallic Colour to my 1985 EA82 Wagon, Just like This: First I painted it with plain White, no metal, no mica at all... Then, I painted it with a Special coat called "Pearl" Coat, that is a sort of Clear Coat with white fine metallic dust on it. Then, I covered it with a Clear Coat... That was a Three steps paint, and finished like the Metallic White of a Cadillac Escalade... just "Diamond White". All paints where KLASS brand paints. Maybe that Idea could Help... Ask the Klass or Glasurit Paints Dealer... (Those Paints are my Personal Favourites) Klass is Cheaper and since it dilutes with Polyurethane, no Brake fluid can damage it easily. Good Luck.

I Really HATE that Hose... is a 5/8" curved in 90º Hose, About one foot long. Goes to the Hot air system... it blew up long time ago... The correct procedure is to take off the Alternator and the A/C Unit... you don`t need to unplug the A/C Hoses, but be careful to them, to prevent A/C Gas leak, if it touches your skin, it will be a big problem, so be careful. Change it with the very Best brand new hose you can find, and that`s it!. Good Luck!

Idle Mixture is the "In the Corner" Screw... Located in the front of the Carb., down the Choke, you´ll see a screw placed in 45º angle, just connected to the carb´s body, it´s the Mixture one... The Idle one is located near the accelerator cable plate (Almost inside / under) you must search a li´l bit in that area and sure you´ll find them... unless they are lost... Also: the Secondary issue makes me think that Maybe -just maybe- you got the secondary activator, placed backwards... Y mean the metal angular "Thing"... you know... And I believe that the iddle is comin´ up, due to a bad choke... try to block it open and drive... maybe iddle becomes more stable... also it can be done due a very thight accelerator cable, it must be a li´l loose, just between 3/16" and 1/4" of free play... Try to loosen it a Li´l bit... then re-adjust the Carb´s Iddle and Mixture... Good Luck!

Well... I`ll Love to See them: If you can send them to me... My e-Mail is: celeste_oso@yahoo.com Thank you soo much. Best Regards.

Yes! I Agree with all of that, exactly what I Think!... Also: I just came back from a Round Trip from Roatán (Honduran Bay Island at the Caribean Sea) to Montelimar (Nicaraguan beaches at the Pacific Sea) with Five People (Countin´ me, of Course) and a Huge Load... and hearin´ my Weberized EA82 Roarin´ at 120KPH cruisin´ is somethin´ I Love... Definitively: I LOVE my Subaru, All of it. but the things Fangster Mentioned above, are the more highlighted... ...Specially the Hill Holder.

Maybe that problem is caused by a sticky float level on the Carb... I Think So... Good Luck!

...Yes! It`s True... My white 1985 EA82 got those mirrors, even with them mounted down the cristal, also my 2.7 Project car does, but it got a 1985 doors mounted... (It originally was just a Parts Car for the other one, then became my -still- project car) so, both are 1985 loyales.

Yes! the Redline Weber kit for EA81 is named: K730 and the page is: http://www.webercarburetors.com/ppw/html/aplication_guide/subaru.htm I obtained my kit K731 for EA82 there, and it works Too Great! Good Luck!

GOOD IDEA!

Well... My EA82 Carbed, Did Exactly the Same... All of this is normal on it (I Think) maybe except for the Air Bubbles. Remember: the entire coolin´ system, got two circulations Just as a human heart: the primary circulation (Main Engine) and the Secondary (The inside dashboard heather to blow Hot air inside). I got those bubbles long time ago, and then they go away the day I decide to make a "Recirculation" on the secondary, due to this two facts: Here in the Tropical caribbean, we don´t need hot air (Atmospheric air usually is hot, almost always... except for just december & January) and the Air Conditioner will cool better without anything hot (Like the inside radiator) near of it. You can try to open the Heather control on your Subie´s climate control to Hot, and then repeat the test. Also those bubbles can be made by the water pump, when you accelerate the engine without the cap on radiator, the water pump will "Suck" a Li´l bit more due to acceleration; and induce air to get onto radiator, and when it gets to idle sped again, the air that got into, comes out as bubbles. If it is the case, you must got a bad thermostat, or no thermostat at all. I removed the Thermostat of my EA82 long, long time ago... in the past millenium... 1993... due to overheatin´ troubles... Well... I hope this could help ya to understand where bubbles came from... Good Luck!

True... So... '70s and '80s Datsun and Nissan trucks used a Hitachi carb that is larger than the EA82 one, but still bolts directly up to the EA82 carb intake manifold. I've never run one,except for a Nissan´s (Sunny or Sentra of 1992) 1600 Hitachi carb. in my EA82, it did performed very good, the over increased gas consumption, due to Smaller Venturi, that means less air = More gasoline in. I found this information in older threads and websites: The Nissan Pick-Up Truck Hitachi Carb. from the 80´s to Early 90´s, is a 30/34 where the EA82 carb is a 28/32 and the EA81 carb is a 26/30. The Nissan trucks have a 2.0L engine, so I bet the jetting will be pretty close to correct. Also, since they're trucks they don't have as much emissions crap attached to them. some with no ECU. It seems like maybe another japanese trucks and SUVs from the same time may have used these Hitachi carbs. too... but you must do a "Junkyard Safari" to search for the one you want. The EA82 Hitachi is a 28/32 (on the manual trans cars and 28/30 on the A/T). The EA81 is a 26/30.... Here's a list of larger Hitachi carbs that I Found in another Thread: 81-84 Isuzu Imark 1.8L DCH-340 81-82 Isuzu P'up 1.8L DCH-340 83-87 Isuzu P'up 1.9L DCH-340 85-90 Isuzu P'up and Trooper II 2.3L DCR-384 84-87 Isuzu Trooper II 1.9L DCR-340 81 Datsun 510 2.0L DCR-342 82-86 Nissan Stanza 2.0L DCR-342 75-80 Datsun Pickup 2.0L DCH-340 81-83 Nissan Pickup 2.2L DCR-342 83-85 Nissan Pickup 2.4L DCR-384 82-84 Chevy S-10 1.9L DCH-340 80-86 Nissan Pulsar 2.0L DCR-342 80-86 Nissan Pulsar 2.2L DCR-360 83-85 Nissan Pulsar 2.4L DCR-384 I'm pretty sure the DCH-340 will fit onto a EA82 manifold. From what I've seen, the model numbers of Hitachi carbs tell you the throttle bore sizes as follows: First 2 digits are the larger bore. Last digit is the last digit of the smaller bore, so you have to assume the first digit of the smaller bore. So an EA81 DCP-306 is a 26/30, an EA82 DCZ-328 is a 28/32, etc. If anyone had tried one of these carbs, PLEASE let us know how it works. Good Luck!

O.K: Jet Sizes: on standard EA82 with hitachi craps, secondary uses 160 and primary 119. I just wanna ask ya Somethin´: Why don´t you go straigt to Weber, Instead of tryin´ with another hitachi, that is very complicated too, like the original one...? Anyway... Good Luck!

Yes! Mine Too, My EA82 Wagon (1985) Has it.

Yes, my dad did that Long Long time Ago... Same Issues like Yours in my EA82, but he did Block off the small pipe that goes from the Intake´s EGR Base to outside, and unplug the vacuum of it, cappin´ it. But just as an Extra Info: My dad did broke the engine Head where that pipe was going, as I explained Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56123 And the New one that we buy at our local dealer, didn´t get any EGR Out to connect it... Well I was a Young boy then and I didn´t realize that, but I think that here (In Honduras) EA82 Didn´t came with EGR. Is it Correct or I didn´t know where exactly the Intake Out of the EGR was originally gone?

Yes! I agree.

Hi! Also, first of all, disconnect the cable and then try to start the engine, using your hand to accelerate it, if it works properly, you can try to intall in the Weber, the original Craptachi Accelerator Plate, Also, maybe the Original cable bracket... I think it will work properly if you can fit it near the rear side of the weber itself (Just an inch away). it did work for me. But my kit did came with a bracket that installs in both the rear bolts of the weber. Good Luck!

So sorry for that. At the time you asked, I used the 6 mm bolts and everything went fine, for a couple of Months, so I didn't knew that; then recently it developed the vacuum leak and I realized it was due to the small heads on the 6 mm bolts, being not enough to fill the openings at the adaptor plate, and realized the reason why Redline added a second -bigger- set of bolts for that purpose. The 8 mm bolts do fill the openings on the plate perfectly, but requires drilling and tapping the intake manifold, and not all the people want to do that, you know... Kind Regards.

If you are writin´ about the "Thing" that I Called "Accelerator Actuator" on the Intake Manyfold... Well: it only works when you press the Air Conditioner button, then a electrical signal did "Open" a thiny door in the thinner hose (Just where the Tee divides the thiny hose in two hoses, one did came to the small elctric door with the vacuum strenght from the intake -from the Tee- and the other goes with this vacuum strenght when a electric signal is received) So, when the "Door" is Open, the second thiny hose that comes from the "Door" will "Suck" the diafragm inside the "Accelerator Actuator" The objetive of it, is that when you turn on the Air Conditioner, the engine´s idle became more higher, Just a Li´l bit; to compensate the extra hardness that the A/C Pump gives to the Idlin´ Belts. I Hope that is the "Thing" You was Writin´ About. Any other question, just ask me! Please Remember that "English" is Not my Mother Tongue, Here in Honduras we speak Spanish... so Excuse me for my bad spellin´ PD: Thank you moshem74 Soo much, for your nice comments about my EA82!

The K-731 retrofitting Kit, from Redline-Weber, came with two different sets of four bolts, to be used to bolt the first adaptor plate, to the intake manifold; one set at 6 mm the other set at 8 mm; however, only the thin ones fitted on the intake manifold without modifying it, but their heads were tiny and not enough to fill the openings for them at the adaptor plate, which felt loose; the thicker set of bolts would fitted perfectly filling the openings on said first adaptor plate, but to use them required a drill and tap job on the intake. Here's are a comparison photo of said two bolts: So, at first I used the 6 mm bolts on the Intake Manifold, which ended being loose and with time, it developed a huge vacuum leak between said first plate and the intake manifold, which was more noticeably when the engine was working at normal operating temperatures. So, I sent the intake manifold to a mechanic Shop where they helped me to drill and tap the threads on it, from 6 mm (~ 1/4") to 8 mm (~ 5/16") in order to solve this issue. I asked them to do that, because I was afraid to drill further deeply than specs, reaching the Coolant crossover passage that is Underneath, that would've Ruined the intake for sure. But they do that job perfectly, and the 8 mm bolts solved the loose plate problem, and the vacuum leak for sure. Kind Regards.

Oh Man! I´m soo Sorry about the aparent confusion, but I was thinkin´ that maybe the Oil Pump Issue can apply to the Hidraulic Lifter Version of the EA81 Engine... ...I was just tryin´ to help.

As I Said, there goes the Complementary Pics... I do not have internet at home, so I went in the afternoon to a Cybercafé and the internet was down... Well, anyway; I hope those pics may help you... Best Regards.

Long time ago... in 1995; my dad drive the EA82 with a partially damaged head gasket that makes the water / coolant mix, slowly go away from the engine at normal temp.s, and then get hotter, and hotter ... He was in the middle of a Highway when engine´s temp go to So much Hot, almost redline; so he did pull the car aside from the road, near to a wild cold mountain spring water font, and takin´ some fresh water from it, with the engine still running in idle, he did open the Radiator (with his T Shirt on his Hands as a protective Shield) and put straight in, a half gallon of that fresh cool mountain water... I will never forget that Horrible "CráCk" Sound commin´ from the engine... one of the two Heads did broke in Two pieces, just between the valve holes from one cilider to another... Miracly the engine didn´t stop runnin´ just one side was Kickin´ Literally, but two pistons was enough to my dad, to came back home, cruisin´ like that almost 77 Miles! Really, I Love that EA82... I just changed the broken head and it did work perfectly! and still runnin´ today. So: Please, don´t drop fresh water in a hot EA82... NEVER!

yes I agree. But let me tell ya Somethin´: The Oil Pump on the Subaru´s EA82 is moved by one of the Timin´ Belts, instead of the main axle of the engine, as used in almost all other engine designs, so it make an oil pump to rev. at double speed than the pistons (Valves Speed) so it only last about 100,000 Miles (About 10 Years of Use). So, I just changed the Core of the Oil Pump (Oil pump Kit) and the noise did go. That´s All. But in the other hand, I did help a friend with a Hatchback EA82 that was too noisy, and the previous owner did drive it like that for two or three years! ... So, Along with the Oil pump change, we did that Subarian Said: Clean Them Up!, and that got fixed any noisy lifter. But, due to the serious wear on it´s lifters, my friend´s subie always is noisy when it is first started first time on the day. Or when it´s cold. then in few minutes, noise is gone. Good Luck!

Yesterday I Didn´t got a Camera with me, so I made that Drawin´ to help you... But I think that maybe I can got my camera back today afternoon, just to take a pic of my Subie´s Hoses Config, to show a better image. Best Regards.