Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Well... I really think that bad connections on Vacuum lines can´t make any engine to unstart, due to the fact that vacuum only exist with a running engine. But in the other hand, bad connections on electrical cables can do that. I sugest to: First: Check the main electrical Lines. The ones flowin´ from the Battery. Also a Rusty Fuses Links can do that too. Check for burnt / Corroed Fuses. False contact in any main cable. Also, if you wanna put all your vacuum lines in correct order, I think that is a Good Idea to send us a Image of those lines actually config. to tell wich ones are exactly the bad connected ones. Good Luck!

First of all, let me tell ya that subies did came with many various climate control versions... even the same year model, did came sometimes with "Panasonic" or "Hitachi" Systems... etc... and even it may vary from state to state. If your car is a Loyale, and by the pics I saw I can tell ya that your Climate Control Config is Almost the same of my 1985 EA82 Loyale, so let me exoplain you how to fix it up: Also you need to know that if your A/C Compressor is Hitachi, the Whole System uses Three Realys: One at the Back Side of the Main Fuses Box (Inside the Car) And another two, in the Engine Compartment (See my Drawin´ for Details). I must tell ya that if the whole system didn´t work, Replace them with Bosch ones, they are way better. I Done that and climate control works fine. Like new. Bosch Relay + Socket: Bosch Relay Wirin´ Diagram: (Remember, pin 87a, if avaliable, is unused in Subarus) Good Luck!

Really I Didn´t seen (Or Heard) About 450 Subies... But here are 360´s and 500´s and 600´s and 650´s (In some markets, they called them the Subaru "Rex") Even 700, 800 and 1,000.CC this is very nice Li´l Car... heritage of the 360... Maybe the 450 is in the middle way between the 360 to the 600... Also, I found this Info about the 450 in: http://www.histomobile.com/1/Subaru/1960/450_.htm?lan=1 it seems to be a more powerfull 360! Here Some Pics: Also see this Link, Very Explained: http://www.xs4all.nl/~mjs/subaruk.html

Nice colours... But I really LOVE the Idea of a Weird Green!

...This is True... Some Aditional Info: When my "Weberized" EA82 gets the lower end of the Red mark in the "E" of Empty, it still have about one Gallon. Enough just to Take it to the Nearest Gas Station... I know it because I always use to Drive near the Red Line... You Know...

Well... I know Loyale`s EA82 Loves Redline, but if yours is Carbed, you can do somethin` to fix this situation ( A little at Least )... Let me Explain: Normally Carbed Subies got the CrapTachi (Hitachi) Carb on them... it has two stages, low (Mecanically Powered by the Cable) and High (Powered by a Suction Vacuum Valve, that depends on the Engine`s Rpm`s ...) So, My EA82 is now "Weberized". Weber Carbs goth Both Stages activated Mecanically, but the Second is Progressive (in 32/36 Models, in 38/38 they`re Sychcronous) The Second opens at the First`s Half opening. Believe me: It`s a Enormous Difference between them (Second Stage by Vacuum and Mecanically) Specially in the Lower Range, so if you`r Subie is Carbed, and you want still to use it`s Hitachi Carb, you can "Unplug" the Vacuum valve from the Carb, Cap the hose and do a "Link" Between the First and the Second Stages, using a piece of Solid Iron Wire. There are a lot of info of it on internet... Also I did help doin` this to two Friend`s Loyales, and they claim their cars Feels way Better, accelerates very Faster, even comparing when they where new... Also mine with the Weber, Accelerates Very Faster than when it was New. Maybe this Idea could Help you... Good Luck!

My Accord Front Springs Came with both ends Flat. Maybe try another year model... Mines where in a `92. In Front, I put it on a Ford Tempo Front Springs. They got exactly the same turns and thick of the Original Subie ones, but also they got two aditional turns with a +/- 1.5 MM less thicker material... This "Extra" part, is designed to Add more "Confort" to the normal ride, absorbing better the small movements of a good road... Also I installed along with them (I mean in Front) a "Donut" You Know... Good Luck!

If it gets Open Air (Not Correctly "Sealed"), Bassically: Your Engine will breath high amounts of Dust, and it`s too bad for it. Dust in the Engine works to wear it like sandpaper. Why you wanna Cut it?

Just Congratulatios! Nice Work.

Very Nice & Clean Subies! 10X for the Pics! Why not Fram?

Well... Just as Info: I got big problems with a Luber Finer Filter, in it´s reference chart, it say aplicable to Subaru EA82 engine, but due to it´s low rise thread (It´s too lower than the border gasket) it only reaches the first one or two turns of the engine threads, so; when tou are drivin´ and engine gets´about it´s normal operatin´ temp, the filter "Explode Out" with a huge "BOOM!" throwin´ all the new oil on the road... Lettin´ engine without oil at high RPM´s It´s Too Dangerous!... So, they at Luber Finer, did Change the Filter Specs, to Rise up the Thread... I got that problem on my EA82 long time Ago... Since that, I Always check the new filter with the old one, to see if they match.

Well... I think So... I sugest to pull it out, and check if bad, and replace it... Good Luck!

I never Heard anything like that but I wish it won´t be so hard to fix... Good Luck!

...Maybe here... http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Browse/tf-Browse/s-10101/showAll-0/showCustom-0/N-111+20004539+600001657/c-10101 Good Luck!

Yes! I Think So... Check for Short-Circuited Loose Cable or Somethin´ like That. If he attach the Back Window Brake Light Cable to the Tail Light itself, it´s almost for sure that is the origin of the Trouble... ...But there´s another Weird Possibility: if the Left and the Right break lights Aren´t of the Same Ressistance... Let me Explain: As a Example: in the Directional lights, if you got all the bulbs of the same ressistance (Ohms / Watts) when you pull the stick to left or right, they will flash at the same speed in Right or Left position. If one of the bulbs gets burnt, for example the Left, then in the Left circuit will be Less Ressistance, so the Speed of the Flashing action will be double fast or so for the Left, compared with the right side. The same occurs when in Front you have a much brighter light than in the Rear of one side circuit, and in the other side both are the same; then one side would be Faster than the Other in Flashin´... So, if you got in the Brake lights, different ressistance bulbs, for example: Left with normal 32CP ( 7 / 15 Watts ) and in the Right 21CP ( 5 / 10 Watts ) maybe -Just Maybe- that is the Origin of the Problem. Check this, maybe it´s a Easy Fix... Try to buy a Pair of identical bulbs for both tail lights... Good Luck!

I´m Very Happy to know that you got fix the Power Windows problem. If there is Anything I can do for you or any other member, I´m glad to help you. Also, this was My Nº 100 Post And Keep it goin´

I got the 8145 Accel SuperStock Coil about two years ago, from www.jcwhitney.com and this Delivers 45,000 volts, and is NOT oil Cooled. it´s a Special Designed Coil for the Off road Use. I Recommend that.

First of All... if it is an EA82... Check the Seal of the Main Pulley of the Timin´ Belts... And do it NOW! Because oil in the Timin´ Belts, drive ´em to Break...

Nice! Pics Please! (Even Nicer )

Some time Ago, I readed a Full Article about the Low and High Octane Fuels... It`s All About Detonation, since low Octane detonates more.... But it can be traduced in More Power, Let me Explain: The main coil of the Regular EA82 is of 27,000 Volts Output, but this isn`t enough power to combat the detonation due to misfires, so, if You put in a more powerfull Coil (I got the Accel SuperStock Solid Coil -Off Road Use- that delivers over 45,000 Volts) and do "Clean" from carbon deposits your engine (Those that make Dieseling in Weberized Subies) You`ll have More Power from the overtimed engine. But just a Little Overtiming. about 20º. How to Clean Carbon Deposits in your Engine? There are many chemical things that claim to do that, but the easier is this: when the engine gets it`s normal operating Temp. Just open the Air filter Box, and with the Engine revving about @ 2,500 RPM`s, let drop right on the Carb a Small Amount of Clean Water, ( one or two onces ) You`ll notice a "Blackened" exhaust smoke coming from behind the car... Repeat this untill the "Blackened" fumes gone... And that`s it! Good Luck!

Look at This! Japan I4020-53221 Subaru Leone-Loyale Clutch Cable Make: Subaru Model: Leone Loyale Brand: Japan Chassis: A10/A11 Engine: EA82 Chassis: A10/A11 Price: $22.73 As Seen on: http://www.1motormart.com/subaru~leone_loyale~clutch_cable_year.html Hope it will Help...

Yes! Good Luck!

Well... I fix it by doing a Wood "Adapter", it covers all the open space of the Radio Area, and it`s about 2" Thick, to give the Extra Space... It`s attached with Screws.

Yes! The Part Number is: Bosch 0-332-019-150 Please Check out This Website about: http://www.tessco.com/products/headerProductSearch.do?searchType=1&searchText=Bosch+Relay&searchField=1 Those are my Images of the Bosch Relay: Bosch Relay plus Socket: Bosch Relay & Box: Bosch Relay Pins: (Remember 87a Isn`t Used in any place of the Subies, it is for "Alternative Redirection" of the Current only. For Example in ON position, current goes to place "A" -that`s the Pin 87- and in OFF, Current Goes to Place "B" -That`s Pin 87a- ... Just Forget about it... ) This is a Basic Diagram, to Understand how to Connect the new Socket to the Existing Cables. You`ll need a Soldering Iron to Weld them if you got a Socket that carries the Cables, if not, you`ll need just to put the pins in the Right order into the new Socket; taken them from the Old one. (The Original Subie One) In this Drawin` You`ll see the Places "A" and "B", as a Yellow and Green Lights, but is just for Reference. Use Only pin 87 to ON position output. If you haven`t it Clear, got a Multitester, and test: wich one of the Original Subie Socket Cables, is Always On with Positive Current; it goes to the 30 Pin. The one that cames from the Power Window`s Switch, goes to the 85 pin. The Grounded one, goes to the 86 pin. And the Output goes to the 87. Hoping that will help ya all... Best Regards.

I got this situation on my EA82... It was the CrapTachi Carb. Just Try with another carb (from a Friend`s, etc...), maybe it`s time runs off... You Know... My CrapTachi done the Same, from one Second to Another, it was Good, and then ruined completely... Now I got Weber 32/36 and it`s a Real Far Difference! But if the Carb is OK, it is very weird... Sound like a "No Oil Pressure" Situation, that is extremly Dangerous... Check oil pump, and maybe (Possibly) one ball Bearing -on pulleys- are damaged. Try to take off the Fan Belt, and any other belt; and move the Pulleys... Good Luck!