Loyale 2.7 Turbo

How about this "Version 2.0" limited edition, of the Scion? ~► http://blog.caranddriver.com/scion-announces-un-lame-fr-s-release-series-2-0-just-1000-will-be-built/

Frankly, I think you are misunderstanding our words and our will to help. So, I'm sorry if anything I wrote did offended you, that was not my intention. Good luck with you car and your repairs... Kind Regards.

But if you want it to come on / off as it Should, and elongate the fan's lifespan, you can check the wiring for the Thermoswitch, searching for corrosion, because it takes the Ground signal from a place around the frame rail... maybe it only needs a good cleanup of the contact bolt, or put the ground to another, cleaner bolt. Kind Regards.

C'mon, don't be so hard on yourself, we all were Newbies, once. It is more stupid Not asking the questions you might have. Regarding this: If you notice strange squeaks from the Compressor's pulley and band, or if it seems to be engaged, despite being off; there could be an electrical short circuit on the system. Kind Regards.

Yes it worth to check the suspension parts for sure. Also this: Might bend a wheel for sure, depending on the circumstances... Kind Regards.

I agree with both somehow... Turbo brings unreliability and more things to care, Despite that the EJ22 can bear a Turbo, people almost never keep the Boost low... Kind Regards.

I agree, both Subarus are worth to be Kept in good working conditions. Kind Regards.

Sorry for your loss of the Adventuremobile; however I'm glad to know that you Survived with minor injuries, and you'll be alright soon. My subie was rear ended in december 2003, but never as hard as yours; and also I had whiplash on my neck, maybe mine was harder because my Subie hit the vehicle on the front, and I still feel the consequences... Maybe you can save some parts of your Subie, if you can buy it back from the insurance. I wish that you can solve the insurance paperwork easily in no time. I send you my Best Wishes, hoping that you'll find another Adventuremobile soon. Kind Regards.

After all that, the engine Runs Flawlessly, Stable and Reliable! As I explained at post Nº 3 above, I obtained another Weber 32/36 carburetor: So I changed it after a Decade, to test the Choke and Anti-Dieseling Fuel Cutoff solenoid: Photo of the finished install: Here is how the new Weber looks, already installed and Running smoothly: And This is How my 1985 Weberized EA82 Subaru Wagon Looks Now: Named: The "BumbleBeast" Here's the Build Thread: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/ This is a Video of the Weber Carburetor, Working on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru: Feel free to ask Any questions regarding the Weber Carb Swap, on its Discussion Thread, which is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148641-to-27-loyale/ I Hope This Write-up will be Helpful. There are interesting comments regarding this writeup, on Facebook, like this one: If you find this writeup, Useful, please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button below. I only ask this as a Motivation to continue Sharing my work with you. Kind Regards.

Yes, Sorry... I forgot that you need to have Catalytic Converters in USA by Law. Here in Honduras, those are not required, so is impossible to find a New one, only the clogged ones at Junk Yards from cars that comes cut or crashed from the USA ... so we have to Delete catalytics to prevent engine damage, because catalytics gets clogged easy with our pathetic Gasolines... You know, the Downsides of living in a developing country... I care the Environment very much, I do many things, from recycling the used oils, to plant big trees, which is my personal favourite environmental activity. Already I have a small city entrance, full of Trees at both sides of the Road, where I planted them in year 1992... Sorry for the offtopic post... Kind Regards.

I kindly suggest you to get Rid from that Converter and install a standard Muffler; also using a Can of SeaFoam might help to clean out things there... You can consider the ignition coil upgrade, as well. Kind Regards.

Welcome Elysia to the USMB! I agree with the Above comments. In fact, I believe that You can do a better Job than Him, judging by your Motivation. Kind Regards.

Three things I found, that together, solves this issue. The Weber carburetor, somehow lets the engine to inhale an increased flow of Gasoline + Air, some of the Mixture doesn't get well burned at the Combustion Chambers; what I did to aid with that, was: to substitute the Regular ignition coil from the Distributor, with an USA made "Accel SuperStock" 8140 known as the High Vibrations Coil, because it is Epoxy filled, instead of oil; the Accel ignition coil provides around twice the power output, while keeping the Resistance value close to the Stock values, so it will not burn the ignition Module.The other thing that helps, is to delete both Catalytic converters,and disconnect the EGR. Kind Regards.

Those are Words of Wisdom. You can take out the Engine and do a Reseal / Timing Belt job, while straightening the Body and fix the shifter issue, which must be a Bended base for the Linkage, it would be a Fun project... I hope things gets Better for you, soon. Best Wishes, Kind Regards.

Sorry to read that, but Glad to know that you're Alright. Your Subaru looks fixable, I've seen much worse hits being fixed almost Flawlessly, on these EA82's so, you might try to fix yours as well. In my own humble opinion, the Forester is an Awesome car, however, the one you're looking at, seems to be Lowered, and for me, it does Not make any sense to have a Lowered 4WD subaru... but also, that is fixable. I wish you the best luck in any path you'll choose, Kind Regards.

The idea is to maintain the proper fuel Pressure at the Carburetor, otherwise, the fuel will return to the Tank, faster than the amount needed by the Carburetor, during deep accelerations... so, where are the Photos? Kind Regards.

Here's how the New Weber carburetor looks, working on my "BumbleBeast"

That is what I meant. I added the information that I wrote above, to my Weber Swap Writeup. Kind Regards.

I installed it without touching the Power Steering's Reservoir tank:

To use the thicker and taller, single plate adaptor, Resolves this issues: Resolves the lack of space for the Choke assembly. Resolves the impacting screws' issue. Relieves the forced Angle for the tool during screwing and unscrewing the Bolts. and Makes Easier this Retrofitting, for sure... Let me show you, the Clearance between the Choke and Power Steering Pump's Tank: The clearance is Enough, however you can hit the Metal reservoir at the Power Steering Pump, in order to get More Clearance as well; also you can see how easier is to reach now, the Mounting Screws. That clearance is gained not only by the Taller adaptor Plate, but also, using the ⅛" Plastic, temperature insulator along the gaskets, between the Weber Carburetor's Base and the Adaptor Plate's top. Such plastic temperature insulator, is pictured in post Nº 8 of my Writeup, which is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ ► Edited to add the direct Link to my Complete Writeup regarding the Weber Carb Retrofitting.

By the way, there is a "built-in" fuel filter on these Webers, look at the green arrow pointing at it on the Photo I posted above; the fuel filter is hiding underneath the big screw Head, located under the part where the fuel comes into the Carburetor. Not all people is aware of the existence of such Fuel Filter there, and it needs to be Cleansed during the normal carburetor cleanup procedures. Kind Regards.

I Updated the information on my writeup regarding the Weber carburetor's swap. Also, I added eleven new photographs with explanations and arrows on them.

I used a couple of turns of P.T.F.E. (Teflon) Tape, on the fitting's thread, to avoid fuel leakage, the Hitachi carb's Y Fitting must be screwed Carefully to the Weber carb's base, otherwise, the weber's Base could break: Be Careful to not overtight it!

Despite that my Weberized EA82 engine, ran without the Fuel Return line Hooked for a Decade without any issues, I decided to remove the straight fuel inlet fitting from the Weber carb, and place there the Y shaped fuel inlet fitting from my old craptachi carb, which has an Straight 5/16 inlet, and also an smaller 3/16 return line built in; in order to reconnect the closed Return line to the fuel tank; with the idea of helping the Weber's Float to do easier its Job, also it helps the Fuel Pump. The thread's size and pitch are equal between the Weber and the craptachi Carburetors. ► Edited to Center the image

A view from four angles, of the New Weber: