Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Awesome, Good Luck! Don't forget to share photos with us. Kind Regards.

Are you writing about the Turbo EA81, known as EA81T, isn't it?

You're Welcome! Post photos of your Subie and its Weberized Engine, We love Photos here ... ... Kind Regards.

Even easier using a Thermoswitch on the Radiator. For a Single electric fan setup, without the Mechanical (Pulley driven) fan, you'll need a Thermoswitch with slightly less kicking on temperature, to keep the EA82 engine, healthy; I used one from another brand of car, which is a direct fit for the Radiator; more information, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Sorry for hijack the Thread, Kind Regards.

Yes, your engine might "Cook" a head gasket, if the leak gets worse, because the lack of enough coolant will Overheat the engine. Maybe the plastic tanks on the Radiator are separating... Kind Regards.

The Throttle cable might Not be hooked properly ... ... which explains the lack of enough Movement to open the secondary. Did you used the Weber's Throttle cable's Bracket? Kind Regards.

You mean the Rotor for the Hitachi Distributor, isn't it? I'm glad of having the Nippon-Denso one on my "BumbleBeast" Kind Regards.

Looks "Interesting" but too round for me. Also I preffer Boxy shapes on cars ... and everything on the road, looks alike nowadays... As far as I understand, "Leaked" should not be "Official" it is either One thing or the Other... Kind Regards.

The things that I really Dislike the most from the Old School Subarus, is that the Subaru Engineers were Lazy enough to design a real better Heads for the EA82 engine, which was a 2.0L engine on its prototype stages; but they wanted to use the Turbo MPFi setup that they already had on the EA81T; so they had to destroke the EA82 from its original 2.0L form, to a 1.8L like the EA81, which doesn't make sense, except for preventing heads cracking easily from the Turbo... However, the EA82 retains the same Bore than the EJ20 engine. That, along the Lousy timing belt setup, are the Worse flaws on the late Old-Gens, however, the 4X140 lug pattern and the front e-brake are on my list, as far second places... The older old gens are good like they are, for that era, in my own humble opinion. What I don't like from the Newer subies, is that they're following the design tendences and are looking pretty similar to other brands of cars on the Road, like Subaru becoming a Pop Star... I miss the era when Subaru was the Rebel Heavy Metal from the crowd... you know... As far as I know, the intake manifold is Not Bolted to the engine, when the carburetor is installed on them; then they install the whole assembly. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Carburetor idea.

I only found this:

What a Shame ... ... I was expecting to read awesome stories and see great photos... Kind Regards.

But you can adapt one for sure. Have you tried at your nearest Subaru dealer?

Yes, that's true, it depends on which kind of Radiator did the factory fitted to the EA82, they used either a two row and a single row radiators; also depends on the Model; certain DL's doesn't have mechanical (pulley driven) Fan, only the electric one... Kind Regards.

Thank you for your kind words. Usually the Aftermarket thermostats are not as good as Genuine Subaru ones, however Stant is a good brand, as far as I know. I kindly suggest you, in order to better diagnose this issue, that you might run your Subie's engine, without thermostat for some days; after all it won't hurt anything; also you might borrow a digital (infrared) thermometer; with those two things, you can check better the amount of coolant usage, also monitor better the temperature fluctuations; but you'll need to drive the car a little Hard, in order to let it develop the issue, either a coolant loss and / or abnormal raised temperatures under load. ~► http://www.aa1car.com/library/tstemp.htm Kind Regards.

Bubbles on Radiator also might be due to a stuck open or failing Thermostat as well. This issue needs better diagnosis, in my own humble opinion. How about a Compression Test? Kind Regards.

I am really Glad to read such good news! It worth keeping this thread updated as more progress comes. Kind Regards.

By the way, I added a whole "Second Part" to my suspension Mods Writeup, but it doesn't show there yet, because it is pending approval from the moderators... Kind Regards.

I drive my "BumbleBeast" in such mixed style: freeways, highways, offroading, bad city roads plenty of potholes and even potholes inside the potholes... the best idea is to get a 2" Body lift and increase the tire diameter to 25" which gains another 2" than the factory ones; in that way, the subie performs great in all terrains. Please, follow this web link for further information regarding the 2" lifting process: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/?do=findComment&comment=1093093 Kind Regards.

My friend from Russia, Ruslan Halitov (Russell-555) shared this photos of an impressive Subaru Leone Coupe, with a Six cylinder engine Swap, that came out from a Subaru SVX; it accelerates abruptly Fast with manual transmission, I have a Video also... Thank you Ruslan! ... Kind Regards.

That depends on which area of the Head Gasket is Damaged. One of the two headgaskets on my "BumbleBeast" failed in December 1994, and the only symptom was that it was Blowing all the coolant out of the engine, after reaching normal operating temperatures, the coolant blew from an area nearby the exhaust on one of the Heads, to the open air under the car, but never smelled nor found mixed coolant with oil; I wrote the full story regarding that ~► Here, on my build tread. So, there are some different ways that a Head Gasket could fail; also, I've seen in other cars, that the cooling system gets excessive pressure and blows the coolant to the reservoir bottle, and usually ends blowing one of the radiator tanks; the cause is exhaust gases that gets onto the coolant passages... Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the web link to the word "Here".

Second Part: Things you Should Know, before attempting to Lift your Subie: As I stated above in the First Part, I used lift blocks on the Struts and also on the Engine's crossmember of my Subie, to level it up the front, because the rear got a 2" lift with the Toyota shock absorbers + Honda coil springs. You must be Aware that there are some things that changes and / or might require certain amount of Modifications to work Properly, once you get your third gen Subaru Leone (EA82) Lifted, and those are usually untold on the Forums; the majority of things that needs to be modified, are in the FRONT of the Subie, so here I'll address that Area. For a Mixed style usage, like I do on my "BumbleBeast" being my Daily Driver on week days (60%) and Weekend Offroader Warrior (40%) the best lift is the one achieved by Lifting the Body two inches, and increasing the overall diameter of the Wheels another two inches; so it gains a total of 4" lift, but usually such lift is known as the 2" Lift. Going Beyond a 2" body lift means to loose stability and the Rear tires will get abnormally closer to the Body in front of them, also the front tires will get closer to the body in the rear of them, which usually requires modifying the body structure, and I don't like that idea, unless you'll not use the Subaru as Daily Driver anymore, only as offroader. Lifting two inches the Body, requires 2" strut top blocks, but despite that many USMB members doesn't drop the engine's Crossmember, in order to gain more Ground Clearance, to Drop it is Really Needed, unless you don't care of running your Subie with an increased amount of stress angle on the Axles, Steering & suspension parts, which usually means to wear axles ~ 10X faster, and having steering issues, alignment issues, and driveability issues. I strongly suggest to Drop the Engine's Crossmember 1½" if you're using 2" strut top Blocks, so you will remove the added Stress from the Suspension and Steering parts, while keeping the axles in a much closer angle to the Factory specs; this will keep the overall Geometry closer to stock specs; so you'll loose Ground Clearance, but You'll gain to maintain the Reliability and Maneuverability that the car had, prior to the Lift. Also, you'll need to drop the Rear Differential, to keep the Rear axles in a closer to Stock angle. What is Untold, is that if you Drop the Engine's Crossmember, five things will Happen: 1) In those EA82's with cooling fans driven by the Waterpump pulley, you must remove the surrounding Frame for the Fan, which is attached to the Radiator; otherwise the Fan's blades will hit it, damaging the Fan and Waterpump. 2) You must lengthen the Steering Shaft, I solved that problem by using one that is already lengthened from Factory, it came from a 1992 Legacy and was two inches longer than the EA82 one, but having same spline count and measurements. 3) The Shifter's Linkage will also be working on a stressed angle, and since it is attached to the Body with a piece of metal that has a Vibration's dampening Rubber cube, usually that rubber cube breaks... ...and the Shifter Drops... I solved that, by Welding a Metal Cube instead: 4) The whole drivetrain goes Backwards and inch (also that stressed the Rubber cube), so, the Shifter gets one inch to the Back, and even the Muffler's tip will get one inch farther from the rear Bumper. Here you can see how it moved an inch, this plate is not Centered anymore: It is Solved by Modifying the above pictured plate, like this: and also by Bending this part that I showed above, from each side, see: But then, the Cover for the Center console, where the squared (outer) Rubber boot goes covering the shifting stick, up to the shifter knob, will feel like is not centered anymore, but still will work; however I modified such center console's cover: but it is Not really necessary. 5) The jack to lift the vehicle will no longer serve anymore, barely lifting the tire from the paved roads due to the body lift, and even worse in some terrains, such like those unpaved roads where you go offroading; the original Jack can't free the tires, not even at the its maximum stretching; so you will need to carry a wooden block to sit the Jack, which is Dangerous, or Weld to the Jack a metal spacer on its base; or even better: get another, higher Jack. That last thing is what I did: I got a Jack out from a Nissan Frontier, which works perfectly in the Subie and fits in the compartment for the jack in the trunk of my Subaru, This one: After all these Modifications are done, the Lifted car really Feels Natural, and Awesome. Please check the two following web links to two different Discussion Threads regarding these suspension modifications; they has Further information, more Detailed photos and explanations, also feel free to ask Questions on those Discussion threads: Rear Modifications Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130950-suspension-improvements-for-subaru-loyale/ Front Modifications, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-2 If you find this information useful, don't forget to let me know by hitting the "Like" Button I Hope this Ideas could be Helpful. Kind Regards.

I stated on my Writeup, that I used Blocks in the Front, for the Strut and the Crossmember, to get it Leveled on a 2" lift. Kind Regards.

...and these were my Gifts for my "BumbleBeast" for its 30 "Birthday" ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153495-got-a-package-from-honduras/?do=findComment&comment=1294835 And the Wheel Set: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/151383-low-budget-15-wheels-what-do-you-think-of-these/page-6 Kind Regards.

My Beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" reached its first Thirty (yes 30) Years as part of my Family, it has been with me since it was New in 1985; so we celebrated at home the "three decades together" anniversary, with a especial Honduran Rum Cake from my hometown, the Traditional Pirate Cake from Roatán, comes in five different Flavors, as you can see them in the following photo: The flavors of the Honduran rum cake are as follows, according to the order on the Photo: ► Crazy Coconut, (we have lots of coconut trees all around the beaches) ► Big Banana, (After all, Honduras is the mere "Banana Republic" for sure) ► 151 Proof Rum, (super Strong) ► Island Original, and ► Tropical Spice. (spicy Flavor) Of course, this is my Favourite one:

You're assuming Wrong. Shock absorbers are meant only to limit the Bouncing / vertical movement of the Car's suspension; the Part that carries the Load, is the Coil Spring, both parts together are known as Strut. In the following web link, you'll find my Writeup regarding suspension reinforcement; intended for a harder / sportier feeling, in a car that is being used as weekend offroader, and daily driver on week days, like my "BumbleBeast" and I bet that you'll find certain information there, useful; like changing the Original Subaru coil springs in the Rear, with the front ones from a '89 Honda Accord; which not only will raise the rear, but also improves the weight handling, and gets rid of the saggy rear; see: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ Kind Regards.