Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Finally I got one of those Nice Brat toys, it was sent by my good friend Thomas, see: More information, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153495-got-a-package-from-honduras/ Kind Regards.

[Thread Hijack] I know the reason, the Laws regarding pollution and contamination prevention, forced the Car makers to use "Biodegradable" Plastics in most areas of the Cars, those Plastics are intended to have a lifespan of maximum ten years, depending on the environment and climate conditions where the cars have to work; so you'll notice that even the Plugs on the wiring systems of the cars from that era, are Disintegrating and Crumbling randomly, making huge fails, one by one, making the owners to get rid of their continously failing cars, as soon as possible. While the Plugs on my '85 Subaru are still Solid and even Shiny like New... Kind Regards. [/Thread Hijack]

This is an Awesome Project, I really admire your will of helping others. Are there Subaru Dealers / Aftermarket support for Subarus in Haiti? I'm asking because maybe you'll need to supply them spare parts... Please share photos of the evolution of this project. Best wishes, Kind Regards.

Welcome! An '87 GL Wagon must have the EA82 engine in USA, so that explains the low oil pressure readings, the gauge at the instrument cluster is not accurate and those engines has low oil pressure at idle... If you don't have the money for resealing the engine, I've seen certain chemical products that helps to stop leaks on oil, by soften the dry, shrunk seals... maybe a good quality oil additive "Stop Leak" might help your Subie's engine to not leak that much, however, it might not work; especially if the seals are torn. I had luck with a Gearbox seal, I used a small bottle of QMi "Stop Leak" and had worked for years... Kind Regards.

It really looks Beyond awesome, pretty clean retrofitting, and is Awesome that you'll keep the A/C. It is interesting to see two pairs of Subaru Original Halogens there. Kind Regards.

Something that is Great on this "KiaStein" is the Suspension, it has 16 years old and besides that the coil springs are a little worn, the four shock absorbers are absolutely Healthy, also the rest of the parts involved, which is unbelievable for a car that was very mistreated by the previous owner, and is suffering from constant Pot holes on our Honduran roads; it is pretty well for being 180K miles... Kind Regards.

Also I'm using "Max Life" on the Power Steering fluid of both cars, and "Max Life" ATF on the Automatic Transmission of the "KiaStein" as you can see in previous posts of this thread, always with Awesome Results. Kind Regards.

Liqui-Moly is Awesome, but pretty expensive. Besides that, at the same time I switched my Subaru "BumbleBeast" to another brand, and I chose Valvoline's 20W~50 motor oil for Higher Mileage engines, known as "Max Life" which was providing Awesome results on my Subie; such as much quieter and noticeably smoother engine operation. So I tried that same "Max Life" motor oil on our "KiaStein" but in 10W~40 grade:

First, I tried on the "KiaStein" this also European motor oil, from Liqui-Moly; which has the MOS2 additive:

From the beginning, I've been pouring good quality 15W~40 motor oil on the T8D engine of the "KiaStein" because it is the maximum thickness that the Kia Factory indicates, to be used on warm climates... ...so, since we live in the Caribbean, that has been the oil used; in Motul brand, either 15W~40 or 10W~40: Also I used Motul on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" but in 20W~50 However, suddenly I noticed that both cars started to have an abnormal oil consumption, I asked to my friend who has a repair garage and sells the Motul oils, and he admitted that the same was happening with all his clients that were using Motul; something might happened to their oil refinement at the factory... but whatever reason it was, I had to switch from the 20W~50 Motul used on my Subaru, and also I switched our "KiaStein" to Chevron's "Delo 400" motor oil, suitable for Gasoline and Diesel engines, according to the American Petroleum institute's round seal on the Back:

I just came across this Craigslist ad, seems like Scooner 6 is for sale: They're also selling an RX coupe, Here: ~► https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5219723504.html Kind Regards.

Everything is clearly explained in that Writeup, plenty of Photos. The Honda coil springs does Not need any cut. Kind Regards.

Welcome! You need to be more specific, letting us know what are your plans with your Subie, in order to provide you the information for that matter; however I received your private message regarding my 2" lift / suspension reinforcements, which are intended for a car that works as Daily Driver and weekend offroader; so here I share with you, the web link to my complete writeup, hoping that might be helpful for your plans: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ Kind Regards.

You're Welcome. Have you used a standard incandescent bulb, ot LED? Kind Regards.

I don't remember clearly right now, because it has passed long years since I serviced the wirings on any EA81 vehicle, but as far as I know, there are two relays in the engine's bay and one on the interior of the car, so there are three relays in total, for the A/C system. The one marked as Nº 11 and the one marked as Nº 26, are on the engine's bay, one of those is intended to power the electromagnetic Clutch on the A/C compressor, the other one is intended to power the Condenser's Fan, which is located Next to the Radiator's fan. The third relay is in the interior of the car, I believe it is the one marked as Nº 23 ...(as I told you, I'm not sure which one is which)... it works receiving the signal from the A/C switch, it is intended to Power the internal Fan for the A/C blower, and Also to send the power signal to the two relays outside, the ones on the engine's bay that I described before. And also there should be a Pressure sensor / switch on one of the A/C gas lines, it only allows the relays for the compressor's clutch and the Condenser's fan to get power and engage, if there is enough pressure of gas on the system; otherwise the compressor's clutch and the condenser's fan will never work. So, don't bypass their connections if they doesn't work and only the internal Blower works, you must verify the Gas pressure with a certified technician First, to be sure that there pressure sensor / switch is not preventing their functions due to a low pressure on the system, or due to a fail of itself... Kind Regards.

Yes, pulling the instrument cluster makes to service the Speedometer cable, way much easier. By the way, here's a pictorial guide regarding how to do that, without breaking the old plastics: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131336-led-retrofitting-on-instrument-cluster-dashboard-removal-procedures/ Kind Regards.

I am really glad to know that the Rear suspension is working good with the Honda coil springs and the toyota shock absorbers; however, if you read my writeup, whose web link I posted above, you'll find that I wrote there, that I needed to order a 2" lift kit to level the front; I explained that at the writup, with photos; also I explained there, that you'll need to drop the rear differential to keep the axles on the proper angle. However, I drove my Subaru with the rear lifted only, for a couple of years, and the only ill effect was that the Headlamps were pointing their beam, very close to the car... and the car looked weird with the rear lifted only. So, I kindly suggest you, once again, to read completely that writeup, for further information, and web links that will guide you to even more information and photos. Kind Regards.

Isn't the other way around? As far as I know, Hotter temperatures causes metal expansion, and thus gives closer tolerances, and increase shearing; That is why an engine that overheats, looses power: the Piston gets hard to move on a cylinder wall that gets narrower under high temperatures. However, besides that, the Thermostat is really needed to keep the engine at proper operating temps, especially on places where there are cold climates and snows; otherwise, the oil will become Mud inside; it is common to see engines that runs without thermostat, to have much more gunk and mud buildup than the ones that has thermostat. However, you must be aware that usually, the ideal operating temperatures for an engine, are Lower than the ones forced by Thermostats and Thermoswitches; the reason is the Catalytic Converters. Those devices are the ones who doesn't work properly unless the gases are coming pretty Hot, and the Automotive industry has moved the operating temperatures up, since the use of Catalytic conversters. As side information, I run my Weberized EA82 without thermostat, since late 1985 up to date, the car only takes more minutes to reach operating temperatures, but once reached, it stays there all day long; but here in Honduras you have permanent warm climate from the caribbean, and you don't need to have Catalytic converters on your cars... Also my Wife's car, an 1.8L M.P.F.I. runs without thermostat since 2009 ... but that only works well, under stable climate conditions, and using catless exhausts. Your car needs the Thermostat in other world areas. Kind Regards.

I really, Really hope that you will be Healthy soon.. also that you'll find the Camping car of your dreams. Have you looked at the page on the second link I shared above? Kind Regards.

Dear Nipper, So, no more Convertible for you? Well, besides that there's a whole sub forum here @ USMB, regarding the Subaru Vanagon conversion, which is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/29-vanagon-conversion-discussion/ I bet that you might find a perfect one for you, for sale in your Area, in this site: ~► http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/cat.php?id=55 Despite that I live in a country where Diesels are so abundant that even Corollas, Kias and other small sedans are sold in Diesel versions, I dislike Diesels, So I understand why you ruled 'em out. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards.

In fact, my Weberized EA82 is much more noisier on Deep Accelerations... But the noise comes from the Carburetor's Throat, not from the Exhaust Kind Regards.

Great Video, Thank you for sharing! Despite of the straight pipe, your Safariwagon is not too noisy. I like it; mine doesn't have that Blinkin' Seatbelt warning light. Because I have the Amber cluster, which is older... Kind Regards.

Ha, Ha! ... ... That needs a Video!

The installation is not the problem. The problem is to use Headlights designed for Right Hand Drive, on Left Hand Drive traffic, your car will be Blinding each incoming driver while getting a dark spot where you need the most of the Light, because they focus the beam on the Wrong side of the Road. Be Careful... Kind Regards.

That is really a Good idea to do, while you are doing Head Gaskets.