Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Usually those bulbs are T-5 (Tiny ones) or T-10 (bigger ones) Please share a photo of your bulb plus its Socket, with us, in order to Help you better. Also I suggest you to use a LED instead the common incandescent bulb. Here are examples and photos of Dashboard's bulb & sizes: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101718-kia-sephia-sporty/page-26 Kind Regards.

The fact that the vacuum hoses are there, doesn't mean that they couldn't develop a Leakage: A hose might be brittle and have vacuum leaks; but on those SPFi models, the most common fail usually is the seal around the TBi (Throttle body injector). Check those seals, using sprays of carb cleaner with engine at idle, to see if there are RPM's changes, is good idea, easy way to find vacuum leakage. Also check the accelerator's cable for free movement. Kind Regards.

I know... what really happened was that Originally the bulb's Socket was bad, but the Fuse was good; then when you cut its wires from the old Socket to put the new one, you blew the Fuse and did not check it again... until now; that's a normal thing to happen which only the Experience will taught you to know how to do these kind of repairs. I bet that next time you'll be checking Fuses / relays \ Wirings in a different way. Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! Thank you for let us Know the Solution, we dislike unfinished Threads. I kindly suggest you to start a new thread for every different problem. In that way, each one will gain the required attention for the Subject. Kind Regards.

Maybe the belt was installed Wrong since January and the valve was Hitting out from timing all this time until it got damaged?

Now I am thinking about replacing the under bumper Halogens on the "KiaStein" with something better, more efficient; however I refuse to install H.I.D. lights on Headlamps with Plastic lenses; I install H.I.D. on Glass Headlamps only to avoid Dangerous Glare from yellowish / non completely transparent plastics. Despite that the Headlamps are more than enough for City driving, the reason is that they're insufficient for the many nocturnal travels on secondary / two way roads; plenty of potholes, potholes inside the potholes, animals crossing, and even worse: Animals Driving! In the past, people were Worried about H.I.D. lights retrofitted in many old cars, however, the problem nowadays is those High intensity LED bars, installed in many, many cars, providing an horrible Glare, which blinds the incoming driver ... the Regular High Beams on the Headlamps aren't enough to illuminate the road in front, against that blinding light barrier, and we need something that could let us see further, preferably without blinding the incoming traffic. I am accustomed to my Subaru's 5000K H.I.D.'s with tremendous 55W per headlamp, those have High and Low beams, and I installed them on Glass Headlamps, but I refuse to retrofit same / similar system on the Plastic headlamps of this Kia. Bigger Halogens for the under bumper area will not fit, because the small space given there... so what could you Suggest? Are there any non-blinding small LED lights that I could install on the under bumper area of this Kia? Or maybe small, self-ballasted H.I.D.'s? Any suggestion will be welcome ... Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Words which I Really Appreciate.

Search for a Black Box with electrical wiring coming and going. To test a Relay itself is pretty Easy if there are more identical relays on said box. Certain cars uses identical relays for Horn, Headlamps, A/C condenser's Fan, etc... You only need to take off the Headlamp's Relay and swap it with a Known good one, Such like the Horn, in case those are identical between each other, Then, try your Headlamp's Relay on the Horn and see if it works. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards.

Sounds like a Change of Plans, isn't it? ... What are the plans now?

The older S13 Nissan 240SX 15" wheel that I have for years as spare wheel, was found locally, so it might came from a LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs 240SX, then Years after that, I searched for a complete set of four S13 wheels for my "BumbleBeast" across all Honduras with no avail, because the people who has them, doesn't sell and the Junk Yards are selling all the Aluminium to local Recyclers, in order to obtain more profit... So, I imported a set from Texas (USA) to Honduras (Caribbean - Central America) which I found on CraigsList; and then I found a Difference in the inner side of the Wheels, let me Explain: an image worth 1,001 words, see: As far as I could tell, everything on the set of four wheels with USDM Specs, including Year (1991) of manufacture, -40 mm offset, Size, JWL approval, etc, etc, etc... is identical with the single LADM Wheel I have, except that the LADM Specs one, has such "Reinforcements" pictured on the photo above. Maybe I'm wrong, and there could be another reason for such hiding reinforcements I found, but as far as I could tell, it might has something to do with the Market where Nissan sold those 240 SX. Kind Regards.

Well, since... ...I asked to the Experts @ the Nissan 240SX forum, via private messages and also on a thread that I started there: ~► http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/beginner-s-forum/173865-s13-seven-spoke-15-wheels-lug-nuts-size-question.html And after properly measuring the blue Lug Nuts I have, I found that they are the proper ones, because they are @ 60º straight angled bottom, Not curved as I thought; they have a smooth curved edges which made me think that they were curved, but my tired eyes fooled me somehow. So, the sixteen blue Lug Nuts are the Proper ones, thanks to God. I can not spend more money on this... Kind Regards.

Maybe your Relay got melted wires or have an internal false contact... A relay is a remote schitching box, it handles the input and output of the High Current for the Device it powers, in this case, the Headlamp; then it receives a switching signal from the Switch, that actually turns on and off the device (Headlamp, Horn, Fan, etc...) if you have some time, please read this small portion at the end of my Writeup regarding Relays, it could be Useful. ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/?p=1194112 Look for the Relays on the Black Box, they're next to Fuses usually. Worth try to check them first, prior to continue... Kind Regards.

I don't believe that such issue could be related to any current Draw, because those keys only triggers Signals, for ECU / Relays Nowadays, They doesn't handle too much voltage like in the Historic Gen of Cars, Unless there is Something else... but there are no Smoke nor Odors... Yes, and also if the key was under Direct Sunlight, it will get Warm, the A/C vents are Not on the way of the Key. Kind Regards.

...and also are you Sure that the Relay's wiring is alright, isn't it?

Well, I'm sorry but some repairs gets Complicated, to find easy solutions... Take your time to do it Good at Once, be Patient, put a Radio with music nearby... You might enjoy doing Repairs in your car if you're patient enough to find the Solutions. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards.

Well, I forgot to write that the Exclamation symbol inside a Circle between Parenthesis, might mean the TPMS = Tire Pressure Monitoring System, however, Such symbol might also has something to do with the Brake system, but I bet that nothing to do with the Engine not trying to start. Have you checked if some plug(s) got mistakenly Disconnected during your Fuel Injector Test? Also you might have done a Short-Circuit, blowing the Fuse(s), worth check them too. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards.

Evidently, the problem lies on the Yellow / blue and the Red / Blue Wires from the Driver's side Headlamp. You must follow the Wirings from the tip, until you find a fail, usually wires that lost their protective cover somehow and are touching bare metal, or a form of electrical false contact, sometimes wirings gets crushed between metallic parts, or breaks due to repeated movement. So, inspecting those wires is your best Bet. Kind Regards.

Try to remove the Positive Terminal from the Battery, then discharge the remain energy on the system by pressing the brake pedal once. Let the Battery disconnected for ~ twenty minutes, then reconnect the Battery and report back if that solves the issue. Kind Regards.

Good Luck with the Engine's Transplant. Let us know the results of the old engine's inspection. Kind Regards.

Right! I misread that you had one working Headlamp before, I was helping another persons in another automotive forums at the same time... Sorry. So, if one of the headlamps is in good working order, then do the Tests on its Socket and write your Findings in a Paper, is better (Easier) idea to draw the socket facing towards you, and write what current does have any wiring on its positions, the test must be done in three steps per Headlamp: With Headlights OFF. With Headlights ON in Low Beams, With Headlights ON in High Beams. Repeat same test on the Non-Working side. Then Compare the Results from that Working Headlamp, with the Results from the Non-Working Headlamp. And let us know the Results ... Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! Yes! Thank You! Of course that having the Bulb wired, will make a Difference, please refer to Post Nº 23 to understand the wiring bridge effect, and please Repeat your Tests on each side's Headlamp, without having the Bulb nor the sockets in there, use a pen and a paper to write your findings on each wire, on each side, with Lights ON and with lights off, and then share the results here, with us, so we could understand the headlamps' wiring situation on your car, and help you in a better way. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards.

"Made in Honduras" Kia Parts Long time ago, I obtained this thick mudflaps for the rear of the "KiaStein" ... Those are made locally! ... For the Front Wheels I obtained Generic Rubber Mud Flaps: To install them, I just unbolted the Plastic Screws that the car has there, and obtained millimetric Metallic ones on same size, thread and pitch, I opened the Holes on the Generic Mud Flaps and used metallic Wahers: This is How the "KiaStein" looks like with those Mud Flaps: Kind Regards.

Yes, also I use a Full Metal Radiator on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since long years ago: Here you can see much more info & photos: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Kind Regards.

What you Really *Need* to do on a Test, is to Not Test the Wires among them or against each other only. So, Connect the Negative (- or Ground) terminal from the tester, to the Bare Ground (any clean bolt) on the car's Body or directly to the Negative (-) Terminal on the Battery, and then, you use the Positive (+ or Power) Terminal from the Tester, on the Headlamp's Wirings, in order to find wich one is the Positive (+ or Power) and then mark it using a small portion of Masking Tape; then, such permanent Positive goes to the Center pin of the H4 Bulb, usually the Middle wire on the Socket. The other two wires belongs one for the Low Beams' Ground, the other to the High Beams' Ground. So, once you find the Positive, then you do the Test on the Negative Wires... Kind Regards.

Appreciated xntryk1, What is really happening, is that you are mistakenly / involuntary "Mixing" the wires in a bad way, let me Explain: What is inside any Halogen bulb, is a Resistance that in fact, makes a short circuit, joining together the Positive (+ or Power) and the Negative (- or Ground), and thus makes the Resistance to get terribly Hot, making Light and Heat, so you got a Permanent "High Beams" indicator light on the instrument cluster, because you are joining together (Using the bulb itself as a bridge), two wires that are not intended to be joined, and that could be pretty Dangerous for the health of the electrical system, specifically for the relays.