Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I'm sorry for the involuntary hijack of this thread... All your answers / more photos, are on the link above. Kind Regards.

Here's the web link, but you must have Access to the Group: ~► https://www.facebook.com/groups/438010226261479/permalink/898767310185766/ That Closed-Down Subaru Dealer is in Malta, I'm not sure about the Date ... Kind Regards.

I forgot to explain this: The reason to Repair my old Radiator is to have a more Reliable one on the Car, I don't Trust plastics on High Temperature environments, usually the Plastic tanks on the Radiators has short lifespan, and could break / fail anywhere, causing a disaster... While the Radiator with welded Aluminium tanks, seems to last Forever. It is a very common Custom in Honduras / Central America, to change the Plastic tanks on Radiators, also to Remove Catalytic Converters from any USDM car, so the Radiator "Master" does such work several times per day, he only asked Lps. 500.ºº Lempiras, our Currency, which Equals to ~ $ 23.ºº US Dollars. I've seen cars that are running flawlessly and suddenly their radiator's tank Blows, while driving in our Hot caribbean climate, such situation usually means a super fast lost of pressure on the engine's internals, which causes warped / cracked heads, especially on Diesel engines, so think about changing the Plastic Tanks with Welded Aluminium, as Cheap insurance who pays itself on the long run... However, you can find pretty easily, New, cheap Aftermarket Radiators for almost any car, also you can find New ones at the Local Kia Dealer, Napa, etc... besides the Hundred of Junk Yards, but the people who purchases Brand new Radiators, usually are the ones who Repairs Crashed cars to be Sold, from the thousands of cars that comes yearly from Crashes in USA; like our "KiaStein" Kind Regards.

In one of the Subaru Groups @ Facebook, someone shared photos from a Subaru Dealer that closed down years ago, they have still "Brand New" Subarus from the 1980's and 1990's only collecting Dust on the closed Showroom... So, yes, there are at least a couple of rare gems somewhere, those deserve to be in a Museum, in my own humble opinion. Kind Regards.

On old school Subarus, the wiring has a permanent Positive (+) always live on both headlamps, what interrupts the Circuit, is the Ground, so the Stick on the steering sends one Ground for Low Beams, and another Ground for High Beams; I bet that your modern Subaru is wired likewise, so, in case you place a direct ground, you'll end with a Headlamp permanently on duty. Kind Regards.

Seeing the photo, seems like it lacks the horn area on the Steering wheel and has some rust underneath. What are your plans with that FWD sedan? If is Manual transmission, it will use little Gasoline, if properly tuned... could be a great commuter / daily driver. Kind Regards.

Also, I purchased a brand new Radiator Cap: They had 50% discount! Kind Regards.

I was tired of searching among local Junk Yards for such cap, all of them, yellow or blue coloured caps were already broken, so I went to the local Kia dealer, and purchased a brand new one: In which I smeared fast drying J.B. Weld epoxy: The idea of putting epoxy on a New part, is to avoid breaking it, not only by Reinforce it, but I bet that I will be more careful to lift it, seeing that epoxy patch there, which remember how fragile the plastic is. Kind Regards.

The Radiator's overflow tank, has a cap which has a small, angled hose, designed to let the excess of coolant, to drip far from the Hot Radiator and far from the back of the Driver's side Headlamp; however, due to such design on said Cap, it is usually lifted by Grabbing the Hose's underside, and since the cap fits pretty Tight, the base for that Hose, Breaks like this:

The "KiaStein" has Several Months running Flawlessly with that Radiator, thanks to God. I decided to change the two main Hoses from its Cooling System: Here you can see their part number on "Gates" brand.

I always use those thick, wide clamps, made of inox steel in Spain, brand: ~► Mikalor You only need to choose the one with the proper diameter, otherwise if you place a clamp too big, the pressure will not be rounded equally and could develop Leaks around the base for the adjusting Screw, which is thicker. Kind Regards.

Finally, we installed the Radiator, back on the "KiaStein"

One of the more interesting things, is the way he used to dry immediately, the High Temperature Ceramic Paint: (► Edit: the car on the Background of this photo, is my '69 Mercury Coupe) He used his Blowtorch again, and smeared the just painted surfaces, with Fire! Then, he applied more subsequent Paint layers, and set them on Fire: Please see this short Video to see that procedure in Action:

Here you can see the pipes and the Strong Drain Valve, already Welded in Place. The black hose is for Pressurized air, he was about to test the Cooler.

Here the "Master" is twisting the return line from the Cooler: Here you can see how both lines are already back in their Place

Radiator Springs! One of the first things I did with this Kia after obtaining it, was, to take it to a local Radiator Shop and let them substitute the Upper Plastic tank on the Radiator, with a custom-made Aluminium one, which is much more safe and durable. The car ran alright for years, but recently it developed a Leak on the Radiator's Lower plastic tank; and to substitute it with another, custom-made Aluminium one, is not as easy as the upper one was, because in the Lower tank lies the Automatic Transmission's cooler, which is made with cooper. The "Master" at the local Radiator shop, is a true Artisan, with tremendous patient, he disassembled the lower Plastic tank and separated the Transmission's cooler from it, then using his Torch, he managed to *Slowly* twist the return line from that cooler and make it in a 90º Angle to the front like the inlet pipe. After that, he built another custom-made lower tank from Aluminium, where he opened the two holes to slide the Transmission's cooler pipes inside out; finally, using his torch again, he twisted back the return line from the new Aluminium lower tank, to the position it should be. Finally, he welded the New, lower aluminium Tank + the old Transmission's cooler inside, to the bottom of the Radiator. He allowed me to shoot some photos to share here with you:

Hard to tell if the Carburetor makes a Deep Tone, if you have a short and noisy exhaust pretty close to your Head, like in your Trike... Also, my 32/36 Progressive Weber, makes a Deep tone under hard acceleration, but that is somehow "Natural" for those webers; it made a deep tone with the 140 / 140 main fuel Jets when the carburetor came new from factory, tuned to be installed on a EA82 Subaru Engine, and it does absolutely the Same deep tone with the 140 / 162 main fuel jets that it has now. All these books, guides, writings, inspired my Signature here... Kind Regards.

There's a Company selling Boxer Diesel Engines + retrofitting kits in the USA, since long ago, see: ~► www.boxeer.com Back on Topic, I agree with lstevens76, that engine could be good to go for much more miles, if the Head Gasket Job is done right, and you give the proper maintenance. Kind Regards.

Oh! ... I didn't know that ... I thought that it was due to a "Lowering Costs / simplifying things" policy. Kind Regards.

There's a Friend in England, he's also here @ USMB, Running a Blue Brumby / Brat \ MV ute, with SUB4 modified EA81. Have you seen it? ... ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122906-the-awesome-older-generation-picture-thread/page-26?do=findComment&comment=1064468 SUB4 is pretty similar to RAM engines. Kind Regards.

~► http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S4_Back.html ~► http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/exhaustbackpressure.html Kind Regards.

In fact, your boxer engine does Not need any "Backpressure", it is a pretty usual confusion, what they need is to join the Left head's exhaust to the Right head's exhaust, in a "Y" shaped pipe (other designs works as well) in order to gain the proper Scavenging effect. So, your exhaust needs Scavenging, not Backpressure. Kind Regards.

Yes, compression seems to be Low. How about the Valves? ... Are there any noise? Kind Regards.

A little more than one inch long. Thank you! What I did, has been mentioned on earlier posts of this thread, such like post Nº 38, here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1045545 If you scroll down there, you'll find more photos. But I lenghtened it with the old 1" blocks for the Engine's crossmember, then I used the already longer from factory, Legacy one, with the 1½" Engine's crossmember blocks, and that legacy one has exactly the same amount longer that I added to the old, factory one. Kind Regards.