Loyale 2.7 Turbo

So, I gave the direct web link to this thread, to the Guy in Texas (USA) who has a complete set of those Nissan 240SX aluminium Wheels, and after a couple of e-mails, he very kindly accepted my offer (which was pretty Low), for the four wheels, whose total amount also included the cost for Shipping and Handling on a cheap, flat rate from his house, to my "Virtual Address" in Florida (USA), with an Honduran Cargo & Courier company. That represent the Half of the Shipping and Handling Costs. Then, I will pay the Shipping and Handling costs from Florida (USA), to one of the cargo & Courier company offices in Honduras (Central America), plus the import fees, upon receival of the Wheels at their countertop. I hope that the Wheels really comes in Good Shape, only needing a painting. Kind Regards.

Remember: an image worth 1000 words Kind Regards.

Too much typing without spaces, nor Photos, becomes tiring to read; so... Did you finished the Engine Swap? ... Any Photos? Kind Regards.

Do you want it New or Used? New = I obtained mine at Carbs Unlimited. Look for the K-731M kit. Used = Post a Thread at the Subaru Stuff Wanted section of the Forums. If your EA82 from a '89 DL is SPFi and you want to use your old Distributor / intake on it, You shall try to make the engine to work with the stuff you already have, Prior to start a Weber carb Swap, that will assure you that the Distributor retrofitting worked. No, if you use the Stock Fuel Pump for the Carbureted engine. You better review carefully This Writeup: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ Kind Regards.

Original Subaru Paint "Touch-up" Pencils, anyone?

The second gen Subaru Rex, a front engine, two cylinder mini car that later inspired the creation of the Subaru Justy; is a very special Car, the ones who own one of those in Honduras, said to me that they'll never sell their Rex, because it usually never fails and moves with the mere "Odor" of the Gasoline... The Subaru Rex could be considered a 3/4 Justy, despite that the Rex was built before the Justy. The Subaru Rex was the Front Wheel Drive only model, while the same car but with 4WD, was known as Subaru Sherpa. Let me share here, a couple of photos of local (Honduran) Subaru Rex: Recently, I found a List of optional accessories, available in Australia, for that Subaru:

Yes, what I've done in another cars where I worked, is to Loop together both pipes with a Hose. Kind Regards.

Yes, newer Radiators comes with those pipes, intended for the Automatic Transmissions' Models. They sell the same radiator for Automatic or Manual trans models, because is easier to build only one style radiator, in case of manual transmission, you only ignore those pipes. Kind Regards.

"Generic Motors" is Fun! I understand now, Thank you.

In Another Subject... Around 8 Months ~ 10,000 Miles has been passed already since I did the Rear Disc Brakes' Swap on the "KiaStein" and we are More than satisfied with the Outstanding Results; the car is much Safer now, but as added feature, it is absolutely Silent at stopping, while it used to have Really Noisy drum brakes, that made the car to feel like an old School Bus while Stopping. Now is Super Quiet and the Stopping Power is Better than the Average. Kind Regards.

Welcome! Nice Subie. H6, not V6. Kind Regards.

Yes, it is Doable, but the Halogen Bulb will be burnt faster... In my '85 Subaru "BumbleBeast", the beam stick can stay in the Middle position, I don't know if that is due to a Design flaw or (Most Likely) due to age and Wear... so I tried Lo + Hi Beams at same time together, but that melted the Bulb's Socket, Then I went with Ceramic Sockets and after that, Bulbs got burnt 10X faster than usual... So, I believe that is better idea to add Fog Halogen Lamps on independent wiring, instead this. Kind Regards.

Other things might cause that issue... So I kindly suggest you to do a Test of the ignition module, as Follows: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129601-how-to-easily-test-an-ignition-module/ Also, have you checked the Fusible Links already? Sorry, but I don't understand the GM part... General Motors? Kind Regards.

Appreciated SoopSoop, Very kindly let me suggest you, to fill the Complete information regarding your Subaru, such as Year, Model, Engine... etcetera; if your Subaru is a Carburated EA82, then you can find that there are some that has the Nippon-Denso Distributors, usually FWD models, while some has the Hitachi Distributors; a Photo of the part is much more Useful... there are also more Distributors available, such like the Optical Pick up... and that is for only one old-school Subaru engine... Also, during years 1975 and 1976, Subaru engines had Points on their Distributors, not electronic ignitions. I'm Not being disrespectful, I am trying to help you: because you need to Formulate the Proper Question, to get the Proper Answer. Kind Regards.

So, in that case, to drop the engine's Crossmember will be Helpful even More, because the little loss in Ground Clearance wont be a problem, and you'll avoid grinding C.V. Joints frequently, plus everything I detailed above... However you live in the USA, where you have an almost Endless source of C.V. Joints and maybe you never have been left stranded in the middle of nowhere, due to a broken C.V. Joint... I have to deal with really Crappy, junk quality aftermarket C.V. joints... if I could find them locally. Kind Regards.

In my own humble opinion, if you want to keep a Subaru Engine lying around "Just in Case" then, I kindly suggest you to get an Impreza / Legacy one, because eventually many old-school Subaru owners, falls in love with the "EJ it" idea ... and if you don't use it, an EJ engine would be much easier to sell after all. Kind Regards.

Look here for my answers: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1257559 ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-3?do=findComment&comment=1257746 Please, read both posts to better understand the Situation. Yes, I know that you don't "Need" to drop the engine's crossmember with strut blocks up to 2", but that is like to exercise with extremely tight pants, it always will be better to run with loose clothing... so I took all the front suspension & steering Geometry back to "Closer to Stock" specs, and the results are really outstanding, you'll never notice that the car has been Lifted / modified, and even improves handling; but that is on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" which is my daily driver on week days / offroader on weekends. Maybe if you only use it for offroading, taking the Suspension + Steering Geometry closer to stock specs, doesn't really matter... Kind Regards.

I asked them for another brand of C.V. joints with higher quality instead, I offered to pay a bit more for the Difference, but they don't have any other for the second gen Kia Sephia at 24 splines... Kind Regards.

► The Good News are, that the Aftermarket Parts' Store Honored their Guarantee. ► The Bad News are, that they gave me a pair of the Same "Nakamoto MA-41S" C.V. Joints, which now I really Dislike, for being a little less than Junk. ► The Ugly News are, that since they gave me another three months guarantee along them, maybe I'll be changin' axles once again in another couple of Months! ... ...

So, I removed Both sides' Complete Axles... ...and went to the Aftermarket Parts' Store with the "New" C.V. Joints (Nakamoto) that they sold me then, still installed on their respective Shafts; they measured the Free Play that their inner bearings got after this couple of months of use, and... Oh Surprise!!! ...the amount was Beyond 3/16" which correspond to Worn out Axles. So, after showing then their Sales Receipt from last December and after I Claimed their "Three Months Guarantee" on those Axles; they gave me another Pair of Axles.

Do you Remember the Axle Job I Did, a little more than two months ago? ... Somehow, that "Smooth as Silk" feeling, only lasted a Whole Month, right after that, my Wife told me that the Axles started to make soft, but noticeable Noises on tight turns at slow speeds, while driving at the Supermarket's / Shoppin' Mall's Parking lots ... ...

Thank You for your Kind Words! Let me know what do you think about all this... Feel Free to ask any question, or post comments if you want. Kind Regards.

You'll Need to drop the Engine's crossmember, in order to keep the Steering parts + Suspension parts, Healthy on proper geometry; otherwise you'll be wasting time, effort and money on Axles, the steering won't be working as it could be, and the amount of ground clearance gained by not dropping the crossmember, doesn't worth all that. I learned that in the hard way... Kind Regards.

Oh my God! ... I hope you'll be Alright Soon. This is your shop's web site, isn't it? ~► http://ccrengines.com/ Kind Regards.

Yes, the Weber Swap is Awesome, but in the meantime, you can check your main fuel Jets on the craptachi carb, to be set at ~ 116 for Low stage (Primary) and ~ 140 for High stage (Secondary) then you can forget about the electronic control / vacuum operated High stage (Secondary), and Modify your craptachi carb to have it Mechanically operated, like in the Webers; taking ideas from this Writeup / Video on this link: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147163-mechanical-conversion-on-hitachi-carburetors/ Good Luck! ... Kind Regards.