Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Off topic, but I thought that WWBBQ, meant something like World Wide Barbeque ... ... If there is Recall about Master Cylinders, the owners of the involved models, should pay attention to it. Brakes are the last thing we want to fail in any car... Kind Regards.

Thank You! I'm not sure if the Hydraulic suspension was available in USA, seems like Very Few of the Older models might got that ... ... I recall a thread about one EA81 with Hydraulic Suspension here; The rest that came with "Height" adjust, had Pneumatic suspension. Kind Regards.

I like that Forza included a first gen Subaru Brat on their latest game for XBox, Thank you for sharing this. Now that's a Great idea! Kind Regards.

Rare Optional Factory 14" rims on Old-School Subies:

I just Came across this photo of a Pinky Wagon, at Facebook:

But those are so Super Hard to Find, that people choose Peugeot or Citröen Rims in 4X140 Kind Regards.

Sorry for correct you, but there were very few 14" Rims offered by Subaru in 4X140. First they came available chromed 14" for the Fully Optioned EA81 Turbo Wagon, Then 14" were optional on the EA82 Turbo Wagons and Touring Wagons, also for the XT coupe. You can see few online photos of old-school Subarus with factory 14" rims, but also you can see those on the original subaru Sales Brochure, under Optional Parts.

Now I Understand. Yes, also I used to have the provided Gasket + Shellac, but after many years of Use and having to take off and on, the Weber Carburetor for Cleansing, I preferred to use Aluminium Welding, between the Aluminium Adaptor Plate and the Aluminium intake, so I avoid the use of Gaskets and got rid from the possibility of having a loose adaptor, and vacuum leaks, forever. Kind Regards.

There is a cheapest way to fix a gasket problem, with a Permanent eternal solution: Get the adapter WELDED to the intake, but first you'll need to close the unneeded coolant passage. I did the aluminium welding on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" years ago, to permanently get rid from any vacuum leak and the thing works absolutely Flawlessly. There will never be a better way to solve such problems. (Edit: unless you're searching for an excuse to do an EJ Swap ) Kind Regards.

I've seen the Single Sensor Setup, and the Dual Sensors' Setup, on random Second Gen Sephia models from '98 to '01 and random first gen Spectras from '00 to '04 ... Both are the same car, basically with cosmetic changes only, so I could Not find any Logic behind the different setups. A change on the ECU's Wiring perhaps? So, if I have a Single Coolant Temperature Sensor Setup, and the Gauge on the instrument cluster has been working completely Flawlessly, the sensor must be in good working order, isn't it?

Single Coolant Temperature Sensor, Setup: Dual Coolant Temperature Sensors, Setup:

There is something pretty interesting related to the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the T8D Engines found on the Second Gen Kia Sephia; some models has only One Sensor which delivers the Signal for both the ECU and the Temperature Gauge on the instrument Cluster; while some others has Two independent Sensors, one for the ECU and another for said Gauge. Let me Show ya:

Well... Officially you need Help. That will require a New Screw and Welding Job... Depending on the Damage, there are also other routes you might take to fix that ... a Photo of the area will help us to determine which way is or could be better; however if you are Broke and have no Welder, maybe another USMB Member with a welder, lives nearby your place, and could help you. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

I understand. A lot changed between the first and second generations of Sephias: the First Gen is basically talking, a Korean Ford Escort, while the Second Gen is, basically talking, a Korean Mazda 323 / Protege. The Sephia continues in Production for the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) as you can see photos on the previous page of this thread. The Coolant Temp Sensor is good idea, I'll check it ASAP. Kind Regards.

I kindly suggest you to Do Not use Head Lamps designed for RHD cars, on LHD Roads, they simply will be always spreading their most illumination pattern to the Wrong Side, Blinding the incoming cars, and the driver will have a dark spot in front on the road; both problems could be Dangerous. Have you ever drove during night times, in front of a car parked on the wrong side of the road, which has its Lights on? Kind Regards.

Welcome, from the Warm Caribbean. Yes, please share here some Photos, we love Subaru Photos! Kind Regards.

Thank you for the idea. Well, this car features a pretty awesome natural aspirated 1.8L Engine, wich was designed for the Kia (former Lotus) Elan, the T8D engine, wich has two coil packs, one per pair of Cylinders, also has hydraulic lifters, Twin Cam, 16 valves, etc ... it is a non interference engine and according to Wikipedia, it develops more than 150 Hp, but I am Not an expert regarding the MPFi technology, so I am not clear where exactly this engine could have an ignition module...

I found This results: Immediately after the engine is Shut off, the pressure goes down to 10 and then, slowly it goes down more, but as fast as the Starter moves the engine, the Pressure Blows up to 50 once again, and stays there, Rock solid at 50, no matter if engine is warm, cool, at idle, accelerating, with A/C, etc ... it stays solid at 50, until the engine is shut off again. But I borrowed the OBD II Scanner and the Fuel Pressure Gauge, from a friend, who gave those for one day only, and by coincidence, the "KiaStein" never failed to start all that day long ... So, somehow I'm Lost with this at this point... Maybe a Mixture between the fact that the car starts, despite the delay at warm engine temps, and my depression, made me to not dig further onto this problem; but I'll borrow those two tools once again soon, then I'll drive the car normally with them Hooked, instead of doing tests on my home's sidewalk all the afternoon. Kind Regards.

The idea was to see if there is a fuel Pressure drop during operation, or it might be happening only while engine gets Warm, after shutting the engine off. I thought that in case there is a fuel Pressure drop after a while, like I pointed in step 4, then the Fuel Pump might be the Culprit.

1) Before starting the engine, then 2) After starting it at idle, then 3) Shut it off and measure it again... 4) Let it rest a couple of hours or more and take the numbers with engine still off. 5) Finally, restart the engine and check for pressure numbers.

I Borrowed an OBD II scanner from a friend, checked for codes without obtaining any. Also I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from same friend, in order to... ...Check the fuel pressure numbers on these circumstances:

My Wife's second gen Kia Sephia, the (in)Famous "KiaStein" has been experiencing a Delay in Starting when the engine reaches normal operating temperatures, but it starts quickly when is Cold. Sometimes it will crank and not start, while other times it will start almost right away. It seems as if after Driving / Running for a while it doesn't like to start right away after that, whereas if it sits for a while it tends to start quickly.

The Name "Sephia" was never dropped from the Kia Lineup, in fact, Kia sold the first gen Rio in the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market), prepared from Factory to work as Taxi cab, already with all the needed items, including the smaller displacement engine (1.4L) for that body, and the yellow paint, sold as "Sephia Taxi" After that, Kia sells in the LADM, the "Grand Sephia" which is a Cerato / Forte, which also is available prepared as Taxi, with the smaller displacement engine (1.6L) available for that Body; all the needed items and the yellow body paint.

Did you know that The "Sephia" name is actually an acronym of these words: "style", "elegant", "powerful", "hi-tech", "ideal", and "auto". Really. You read them right...